Refit an used hoop. Swedish chisel.

[Lasse Hilbrandt]

In the near future im going to make a set of new handles to fit some socket type Bergs. In my mind I was planning to re use hoops from warn out handles. The dimmed type. I dont like the type with the little nails.
Now im thinking if it is even possible to get a succesful result with old hoops because they are already dimmed. Does anybody have that kind of experiense ?

Or is there a source for "new" un-dimmed hoops ?

[Mike Baker 2]

If you fit the handle well, I son't see any reason you can't take a punch and make the dimple even deeper, thus tightening them on the new handles. I've never done it, but I would not hesitate to try it.
MHO.

[John K Jordan]

In the near future im going to make a set of new handles to fit some socket type Bergs. In my mind I was planning to re use hoops from warn out handles. The dimmed type. I dont like the type with the little nails.
Now im thinking if it is even possible to get a succesful result with old hoops because they are already dimmed. Does anybody have that kind of experiense ?

Or is there a source for "new" un-dimmed hoops ?

I'm not familiar Berg or with the words "dimmed" or "hoops" as applied to chisels. Is this the type where the metal socket or ferrule is rolled to fit into a groove in the wood, or where it is held with some kind of depression through thin metal. If the latter, it should be easy. The way I imagine the former the socket could probably be straightened and reformed with metal spinning tools. I'd do this in a metal lathe, devising a way to mount the ferrule or entire chisel with the ferrule/socket concentric to the rotation.

If neither of these, perhaps describe the fastening and post a picture or a link to picture with a closeup. I find most things that are made can be unmade in the shop! (unless they are microscopic)

JKJ

[john hejmanowski]

Lasse,

I also have some old Berg chisels that I would like to fix up as users. As you will see in the pictures, the handles have damage to their tops, probably as yours do.

I have been considering using this epoxy product https://www.glueoakandteak.com/ to form a cap onto the handle, basically replacing the damaged wood. - remove all the damaged and splintered wood. Make a form using blue tape. add epoxy to height, probably 5/16" or so.

I would use the chisels as general purpose and even use a wood mallet with leather face if needed but not as typical use. The issue is how well the epoxy will hold up and the glue line. I have talked with Steve Smith the epoxy developer and he thinks it will work fine.

I really don't want to shorten the handle.

What do you guys think?

John H

[John C Cox]

I am assuming he is referring to either a dent or a punch mark to hold the hoop in place.

I would remove the hoop and peen the dent/punch mark back out from the inside... Then punch it in the same place when you fit the hoop onto the new handle..

[Jim Koepke]

How about making new hoops from water pipe?

They would be stronger than the stamped metal hoops.

jtk

[lowell holmes]

I have re-handled large chisels by making (whittling) a new handle, buying lavatory drain pipe and cutting rings out of it.
They have held up for years. The chrome drainage pipe looks good.

[Lasse Hilbrandt]

water pipe and the likes is probably the best solution, but I want to be as close to original as possible. I have bought expensive masurbirch to make the handles from. I think the advice to press the punchholes/dims out from the inside is the way to go.

[Lasse Hilbrandt]

Lasse,

I also have some old Berg chisels that I would like to fix up as users. As you will see in the pictures, the handles have damage to their tops, probably as yours do.

I have been considering using this epoxy product https://www.glueoakandteak.com/ to form a cap onto the handle, basically replacing the damaged wood. - remove all the damaged and splintered wood. Make a form using blue tape. add epoxy to height, probably 5/16" or so.

I would use the chisels as general purpose and even use a wood mallet with leather face if needed but not as typical use. The issue is how well the epoxy will hold up and the glue line. I have talked with Steve Smith the epoxy developer and he thinks it will work fine.

I really don't want to shorten the handle.

What do you guys think?

John H




I dont think it will hold up. I would turn new handles for those chisels.

[john hejmanowski]

I dont think it will hold up. I would turn new handles for those chisels.


I have that concern as well. I was hoping someone would say they have done that and it works.....

[Phil Gaudio]

Lasse: Confronted with a similar situation with a set of Berg chisels, I opted to make long paring handles and dedicate these beautiful chisels to paring tasks. I had some curly maple left over from my bench build: they have held up well. Phil
387127

[john hejmanowski]

Lasse: Confronted with a similar situation with a set of Berg chisels, I opted to make long paring handles and dedicate these beautiful chisels to paring tasks. I had some curly maple left over from my bench build: they have held up well. Phil
387127

Those sure look nice. How tough is it to buy an old lathe and figure out how to make some handles?

[Phil Gaudio]

John: Well those handles were my first lathe project: luckily my son had a small pen turning lathe so I used his setup. There is a learning curve to lathe work (like anything else) but spindle turning such as this is is not all that difficult. Phil

[Jim Koepke]

Those sure look nice. How tough is it to buy an old lathe and figure out how to make some handles?

Can't be that hard if someone like me can do it. Put up a WTB on a grocery store bulletin board and bought a lathe for $100 in a few days. It came with tools and a chuck. It isn't some great lathe, but it gets the job done when a handle is needed.

387136

The long handle on the left and the second from the bottom are both made from salvaged chair parts. Many of these were made on a lathe in a school shop. This image was taken just after getting my lathe. The red handle and the second and third from the top were turned on my late '40s early '50s Craftsman lathe.

jtk

[Bruce Haugen]

Lasse,

I also have some old Berg chisels that I would like to fix up as users. As you will see in the pictures, the handles have damage to their tops, probably as yours do.

I have been considering using this epoxy product https://www.glueoakandteak.com/ to form a cap onto the handle, basically replacing the damaged wood. - remove all the damaged and splintered wood. Make a form using blue tape. add epoxy to height, probably 5/16" or so.

I would use the chisels as general purpose and even use a wood mallet with leather face if needed but not as typical use. The issue is how well the epoxy will hold up and the glue line. I have talked with Steve Smith the epoxy developer and he thinks it will work fine.

I really don't want to shorten the handle.

What do you guys think?

John H




I have done what you propose, I think. I have one 1” Berg that had a severely abused end on the handle. Fortunately the handle was still long enough, so I just turned it down a quarter inch lower (or shorter), put the hoop on and rounded over the end. While not a show piece, it has worked well.

[lowell holmes]

I reiterate, chrome lavatory and sink drains make good chisel handle hoops, especially for large timber framing chisels.

[Jim Koepke]

I reiterate, chrome lavatory and sink drains make good chisel handle hoops, especially for large timber framing chisels.

Or if you like a copper accent try the pipe fitting bins.

For that matter, just about any round piece of a strong metal can be made into a hoop or ferrule.

jtk