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Jay Michaels
06-01-2018, 1:42 PM
I seemingly have three options on how to make a cut for a toolbox project, but before I select one option, I'm hoping to get some input from you all. I have all the tools described below; but each option seems to have its own pros and cons.

I'm making a toolbox out of 4/4 cherry and the front face will hold two drawer fronts. I'd like the drawer fronts to continue the grain that exists on the rest of the front face, thus I'd like to use the cut-out from the front panel (where the drawers will be) as the drawer fronts.

To achieve this cut, I have at least three options.

Option #1: In this Woodworker's Journal video -- the basis of my toolbox project -- the woodworker uses the table saw to cut the panel apart and then, minus the piece used for the drawer faces, glues the panel back together. He then stabilizes that face frame and makes the box joint cuts on the router table. I too will be using box joints for this project, so I need those portions on the left and right to remain stable enough to withstand the box jointing (I'll be using my porter-cable dovetail/boxjoint jig to cut the box joints).

Here is the specific portion of the video where the woodworker's journal guy cuts the panel apart and glues it back together:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tXrwmRJeyoQ&t=125s

My one hesitancy in using that approach is that my panel (a glue-up of two 6.5-wide boards) is not perfectly flat (and I do not have a planer to flatten it) though it is close. When I put it in the porter-cable box joint jig, it will be pressed flat against the jig so the box joints will be cut perfectly square. I know that this pressure could stress that thin vertical strand on the left/right of this face frame and I fear it could break there.

Another approach I discovered that would allow me to cut the box joints before I cut out that drawer opening (thus eliminating the concern I expressed in the paragraph immediately above) is one of these two approaches used by Jimmy Diresta in a spice cabinet he built.

Option #2: I could use the table saw to do some plunge cuts to cut out that drawer panel. I realize this would present its own risks; the curved blade makes a cut beyond the drawer opening, somewhat weakening that panel. But because the ends are unaffected, I could make the box joint cuts before I do that plunge cutting, thus the stresses wouldn't be as bad as option #1 above.

Here is the portion of the spice cabinet build where Diresta uses this approach:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yhXlZ8vsDtM&t=489s

Option 3: I could make a little jig and use a multitool to cut out the opening. I would perfer this approach more readily if the stock I was using was thinner, but I'm using 4/4 stock so the cut is fairly deep. I feel like it might be difficult to get a nice, clean, precise cut with a multitool. Here's the portion of the spice cabinet where Diresta uses teh multitool to cut a drawer opening:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yhXlZ8vsDtM&t=543s

I want to leave a relatively thin ribbon of face frame on the left and right of the drawer so the drawer can be as large as possible. But the thinner that vertical piece is, the riskier it is too.

What I'm currently leaning toward is a combination of options 2 & 3. I'm considering doing this, in order:
1. Cut all the box joints on all panels first.
2. On the front face panel, use the table saw to do some plunge cuts, but don't extend the back/underside of the cut beyond my line. Thus the drawer front won't be entirely freed of the panel yet, but the bulk of the cut would be made.
3. Use a multitool or a fresh jigsaw blade to finish the cuts that would liberate the drawer front section from that face frame.

So what say you all?

David J Blackburn
06-01-2018, 3:14 PM
I’d go with #1. If you are worried about the strength of the glue up when cutting the box joints, use a backer board tightly clamped to the front to give it more support and should keep you from having any trouble with it. Maybe try a practice board first to see how it works, but I would be comfortable doing this.

Fake edit - ah, i see that’s what he did in the video. The issue is then about the panel not being perfectly flat? Put a flat piece of plywood as a front and a backer board then. Unless it’s too not flat to be used as a case side, which presumably it isn’t, that should keep any stress in check because the whole thing will be secured from both sides.

Doug Dawson
06-01-2018, 3:41 PM
I would use an azebiki.

Go to www.japanwoodworker.com (http://www.japanwoodworker.com) and search for
Hishika Azebiki Saw 65mm
as an example.

It would be useful to mark out the cuts, scoring them with a marking gauge (preferably a cutting gauge if you have one) and/or straightedge-and-marking-knife to make sure the cuts are started right.

The panel stays intact, and the drawer fronts will match very close and tightly.

Doug

Jim Becker
06-01-2018, 5:52 PM
The way I've done this s is to make up an oversized panel with the target boards glued up in the position and orientation I want. I can then carefully rip the rails and drawers, starting from the top, separate the drawer fronts with a cross cut (my kerf is the intended spacing), and then re-glue the panels back together minus the drawer fronts. (carefully labeling everything. The glue joints are pretty much invisible and the end result is the look of continuous boards.

rudy de haas
06-01-2018, 5:57 PM
It's going to be very interesting reading the answers you get.

One thing you may want to consider is that your #1 approach loses the thickness of the blade - and if that's a standard 1/8th kerf and your grain is clearly visible you'll be forever apologizing for something you'll be the only one to see: that the grain does not quite match up in any direction. I started with a 1/16" kerf blade in part for this reason but quickly discovered that my table saw riving knife was 1/8th and caused endless board jams when used with the thin kerf blade. On the other hand I don't think you can make these cuts accurately enough with any other tool (e.g. bandsaw - multitools are useless for this) so thanks for asking the question and I certainly plan to read all the answers you get.

William Chain
06-01-2018, 7:41 PM
I think this is the best way. One of the NYW projects did something similar for a cherry table with drawers. It looked terrific.


The way I've done this s is to make up an oversized panel with the target boards glued up in the position and orientation I want. I can then carefully rip the rails and drawers, starting from the top, separate the drawer fronts with a cross cut (my kerf is the intended spacing), and then re-glue the panels back together minus the drawer fronts. (carefully labeling everything. The glue joints are pretty much invisible and the end result is the look of continuous boards.

David J Blackburn
06-01-2018, 8:10 PM
This is his #1. He’s concerned about making the box joint cuts on the narrow part after doing it, because his board isn’t flat. At least, if I’m reading his concern right. The video he links to in #1 does what you described.

Derek Cohen
06-01-2018, 9:29 PM
Before making any cuts, I would take a hand plane or cabinet/card scraper to the face of the panel, and smooth it. Use a sander if that is your preference. It will not be possible to do this later.

I would use Method #1, but with a variation. Cut the top section, and then cut full strips dor the drawer sections - not the full side sections, as in the video. Then glue up all the side sections and top and bottom strips. This way it is possible tp align the grain all the way across with the drawers.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Brian Holcombe
06-01-2018, 10:53 PM
#1 works but I have two comments to make.

If you do that one one panel and you're trying to grain match all the way around, then you have grain misalignment at the two front sides (the ones you see the most) by 1/8" at top and bottom, which is enough to look odd unless the sides are not cut from the continuous board.

The other is that your married to rather large gaps around the drawers.

I would approach this by cutting the left side, front and right side from five boards. The front board where the drawers are you can cut those with a thin kerf blade (handsaw) to make the clearance at the sides tight. Then you can adjust for clearance of the drawers after assembly and set the gaps exactly how you want with a hand plane.

This makes continuous grain around the outside front of the case and drawers.

Better still I would eliminate those short pieces entirely and just make the drawer faces the full width of the box. I'd probably also make the drawer fronts so that they lip over a stretcher running the width of the carcase tying the sides in.

Patrick Walsh
06-02-2018, 8:47 AM
I agree with Brian on this one.

I would not get to hung up on exactly replicating the project as previously built.

Namely Brian’s suggestion “if I understand correctly” to make the drawers go full width of the case and being a combo inset full overlay construction. I think it will look much much better than the example project and resolve the nasty oversized drawer to carcass reveals.

Have fun!

Derek Cohen
06-02-2018, 8:47 PM
I agree with Brian on this one...

Since Brian essentially repeated what I said (but he is wordier :) ), and Patrick agrees with Brian, and all of us came after Jim ..... then there is your answer! :D

Regards from Perth

Derek

Patrick Walsh
06-02-2018, 8:51 PM
Hahah,

Now that’s funny!

I needed a good laugh, think it may have been my first of the day..

Patrick Walsh
06-02-2018, 9:09 PM
Jim’s approach reminds me of a bath vanity I made a couple months ago.

Now don’t shoot me for the details or specifics as I just built it the way the architect insisted I do.

The horizontal grain of the pice was a must. As was the i set doors vrs the overlay style of the base unit. This detail was to side the edge grain of the bamboo ply.

Anyway as a result of the horizontal grain two pieces of the bamboo ply had to be joined. With a stupid curf that broke the pieces at the shadow lines of the doors.

I payed the whole thing out on the two pieces then started cutting them into style, rail, side panel and door pieces. These pieces all got dominoed and glued back together. The whole thing was a bit of a nightmare. And pretty darn ugly imop. I’ll take it to making paint grade Shaker style cabs any day though.

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