DC replacement motor

[Patrick Curry]

I just purchased a used Dayton 5E817A Dust Collector for my home shop. The motor is a 3hp, 208-230/460v, 3 phase. Not having 3 phase power in my garage, I'm considering a TECO VFD or swap out the motor for a spare motor on hand. That motor is a 3HP, 240V, 15A, TEFC, 3450 RPM pulled off a Grizzly jointer. It only has a few hours of use before being replaced due to a marred arbor. I haven't picked up the Dayton (auction) so I don't have that motor in front of me to compare the RPM, but I'm guessing it's the same speed (?).

If I were to swap the motors, would there be issues due to the difference in load (between a jointer cutter head and fan)? I'm thinking specifically about the amp draw but maybe that's not something to be concerned about? IDK. I have a 30amp breaker for my 220 and it will need to run one machine plus the DC at a time.

The other known concerns/considerations for swapping the motor out are: 1) Ability to retrofit the motor mount (need to inspect). 2) Cost to replace the arbor so it fits the DC fan, or possibly swap arbors between motors if that's even possible? 3) purchasing the right switch for the replacement motor.

I still need to purchase cartridge filters, duct work, fittings and blast gates so I'm looking for the least expensive yet effective power solution. My time is secondary since I enjoy the work. Thoughts and suggestions are appreciated.

[Rollie Meyers]

You may have some issues with motor frame sizes I have a 3 HP 3Ø dust collector that I could not find a single phase motor to match, all the 1Ø motors were larger, something to consider but it may not even be a issue.

[Mike Heidrick]

The dc is prob c face mount too and the jointer prob has a shoe to mount it.

[Patrick Curry]

The dc is prob c face mount too and the jointer prob has a shoe to mount it.

Yeah, Part of this is just me trying to put that near perfectly good 3hp 220v to use somewhere.

But on the other hand a vfd’s ability to slow the 3 phase motor down might be a handy feature for this two stage DC. Since I’ll be modifying the design somewhat by using cartridge filter(s) rather than the intended dust bag, more or less large particles may pass through the cyclone. Just a thought.

[Chris A Lawrence]

I went the vfd route with the 3 phase 2 hp DC that came with a unisaw i bought. I rarely run the dc at full power most of the tasks i do only require 75% which cuts down on the noise. I went the cheap route and bought a no name vfd off ebay. Its been running for 5 months now with no problems.

[Chris Parks]

The VFD will lower the start up current by a very large amount which is a plus.

[Patrick Curry]

[QUOTE=Chris Parks;2818645]The VFD will lower the start up current by a very large amount which is a plus

I didn’t know that, and yes that’s a plus.

[Patrick Curry]

I went the vfd route with the 3 phase 2 hp DC that came with a unisaw i bought. I rarely run the dc at full power most of the tasks i do only require 75% which cuts down on the noise. I went the cheap route and bought a no name vfd off ebay. Its been running for 5 months now with no problems.

I’ve read about quite a few eBay VFD buyers that have had good experiences. And I’ve got a powermatic 66 3hp 3phase sitting in my shop right now waiting for a vfd so I know I’ll be buying one for the saw anyway. I was thinking about buying a TECO because of the domestic support (purchase and installation). Maybe it’s easier than I think? Did you have any issues?

[Bill Dufour]

For a dc a vfd is pretty easy. You probably want a slow start, several seconds, and coast down, lock out reverse. The variable speed feature can be the existing knob no real need for elaborate remote control wiring, multiple e-stops etc.

[Patrick Curry]

[QUOTE=Bill Dufour;2818742]For a dc a vfd is pretty easy. You probably want a slow start, several seconds, and coast down, lock out reverse. The variable speed feature can be the existing knob no real need for elaborate remote control wiring, multiple e-stops etc.[/QUOTE

Yes, I’m fine without a remote start. When you mention using the existing knob for controlling speed, you’re referrring to a control on the vfd right? (Didn’t see a dial on the units but control panels probably vary)

I made a mental note about locking out reverse...not a desirable feature for this application.

[Chris Parks]

The Powtran VFD I used to sell is a cheap end VFD, I know of only two failures and one of those was running 8 hours continuously every day. Using a VFD also makes using a remote dead easy as you just hook it into the VFD and change the programming to allow for it. The big thing going for the Powtran is that the control panel can be removed, put elsewhere and hooked up to the VFD with a cat 6 cable, I put the control panel above my table saw until I decided I needed an IR remote which is a $10 garage opening control.

[Patrick Curry]

I found a Powtran (PI160 OR7G1)on eBay for $65 inc shipping. That’s a ‘two for the price of one’ compared to the $200 TECO. May have to look into this some more since I’m running a home shop (averaging out to a few hrs a week). Thanks

[Chris A Lawrence]

The vfd I got is digital and programmable it has hookups for remote start and stop and can be programmed for ramp up and down time .

[Mike Heidrick]

Patrick that is a 1hp vfd. That the size you need? You can get a 1hp vfd that outputs 3ph and runs on 120v

[Patrick Curry]

No, both my applications are 3 hp motors. My eyes must have skipped right past the .75Kw to the “3” in 3phase.

[Rollie Meyers]

Patrick that is a 1hp vfd. That the size you need? You can get a 1hp vfd that outputs 3ph and runs on 120v

VFD's do not play well with GFCI's which are required for 120V circuits in shops, 240V circuits in home shops do not require GFCI's yet but 3 HP drives will be 240V input so the point is moot.