Now is it time for a band saw?

[Steven Mikes]

Is there a better way to do this by hand? Because making panels this way kind of sucks.

[ken hatch]

Is there a better way to do this by hand? Because making panels this way kind of sucks.

LOL. BTW, a good job so far.

Save the hand work for the things that matter. Re-sawing isn't one of them. If I could have only one machine in my shop it would be a good bandsaw.

ken

[Mark Rainey]

Been there, done that. The thrill is gone...got a band saw. I did try a frame saw with Japanese turbo blade - blade wandered and still slow & tedious.

[John K Jordan]

Is there a better way to do this by hand? Because making panels this way kind of sucks.

Sneak the boards out and bring them here. I'll resaw them on the bandsaw and no one will be the wiser. You can wait outside and disavow all knowledge of what happened!

[john zulu]

The price of a frame saw is not cheap. I went with a bandsaw and it paid for itself.

[Brandon Speaks]

If I could only keep one of my machines it would be the bandsaw (although lathe is my favorite bandsaw sees way more use). Drill press and lathe would be number 2 and 3. I would miss the TS a bit, miter saw only for doing something like cutting framing lumber, and I could give the router table away right now and not care one bit.

Also good job on that cut, if I did that it would not look nearly so nice.

[Jim Koepke]

Get a bandsaw and don't get a cheap one.

For a few years my bandsaw was an underpowered 10" model, mostly plastic, that could only re-saw 6" and it didn't do that too well.

Currently my bandsaw is a 14" JET with a 12" re-saw ability and a bit more power. It can use up to a 3/4" blade. There are likely other bandsaws just as good and better, but this one has impressed me.

jtk

[lowell holmes]

Jim,
I have the same saw. I've never been disappointed with it. I put the riser in mine also.
I would not be without it.


http://www.performancetoolcenter.com/jet-708717-6-inch-riser-block-for-14-inch-bandsaw/?gclid=CjwKCAjw3cPYBRB7EiwAsrc-uRzMAM0uAWc8kPKDG6vpgnWIYr0s7ePaA0lIGQvfT25HN4UFag 5QaxoCfwMQAvD_BwE

[Pat Barry]

Are you using a rip saw? -- I cant tell from the photo. Is the saw sharp? What species of wood is that? It looks like a softwood from the picture but I can't be sure. If it is softwood, with a sharp rip saw, this should be pretty easy cutting. Keeping it on track should be biggest issue.

[Mark AJ Allen]

Yes I believe there is a way to do resawing by hand better. The following is just how I do it, no claims it's absolutely the best way:

1. Get a proper saw for the task. There are options; a frame saw (You've probably seen kits for them), a Japanese pull saw (harder to get) or there is a 'hack' option as well and I use it. I will outline later; it's cheap, it works
2. Develop your technique. IMO, sawing in one direction from one position directly perpendicular to the length of the board is not ideal.

SAW: The frame saws work well, but I experienced some things I find unfavourable: they are relatively heavy, unbalanced and cumbersome to maneuver. I started looking at Japanese pull saws because they don't have these issues; traditionally, they had these big whaleback things, but you can't buy those anymore and are for much larger timbers. I am of the opinion that IF you can find one, a kataba (NOT the ryoba) with a rip tooth pattern no less than 300 mm is the best saw you can get for resawing.

The hack I used is this: http://granitemountainwoodcraft.com/2015/04/22/resawing-lumber-with-350mm-homemade-kataba-nokogiri/

I didn't make the exact same, but the style is similar. Note that the saw doesn't need to be any longer than you can 'throw' with your body in your stroke. I also recommend you file the teeth with a more aggressive negative rake on the end stroke section of the saw.

TECHNIQUE: At a minimum, I establish a marked line where you want to split the board; the best thing I do is establish a kerf THE SAME width of my saw plate for resawing on this line, about 1/2" deep. This guides my saw. I found that the best resawing is done if the wood pinches my sawplate JUST a little bit equally on each side of the plate. People have developed kerfing saws for this task; look into making one if you do lots of resawing by hand. I have one ... I use it for resawing 'badly behaved' wood.

When sawing, I make cuts so the saw is in the kerf as much as possible. This leads to attacking the corners of the board and flipping the board around to attack all 4 corners. Eventually I work my way to the center of the board with this technique. I get nice, clean cuts, little stray from the desired line.

[Steven Mikes]

Pat, yes it's a 5.5 TPI Disston rip saw. I'm not an expert on saws but I think it's pretty sharp, certainly cuts nicely. The wood is Eastern Red Cedar, it's pretty soft and the saw eats through it quickly, but it's still slow going overall. sawing across the whole width of the board.

[Derek Cohen]

Steven, I use a bandsaw. However, were I to resaw the way you are, I would use a kerf plane - essentially a plough with a saw blade - all the way around to aid in guiding the saw blade. This will aid accuracy and effort by enabling you to saw two kerfs together.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Brian Holcombe]

There is a value in doing it by hand, often, and the value is that you really begin to have a better understanding of how a saw cuts.

I use a bandsaw now, but certainly do not regret struggling initially and ultimately succeeding in resawing work, then doing quite a bit of it.

[Van Huskey]

It is always the right time for a bandsaw. Unless you are a full-on handtool purist a bandsaw is a must have, and really compliments handtools better than basically any other machine.

[lowell holmes]

You could make the cut with a bow saw. It might be a good excuse to buy one. I had this saw at one time. It seems to have disappeared.
Hurricane Harvey might have gotten it.
https://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/store/item/GT-BOWSAW12/Gramercy_Tools_12%22_Bow_Saw

[Don Dorn]

LOL. BTW, a good job so far.

Save the hand work for the things that matter. Re-sawing isn't one of them. If I could have only one machine in my shop it would be a good bandsaw.

ken

Couldn't agree more - it would be the last power tool to go.

[Kees Heiden]

A bandsaw, oh yes, I’d like one. But a good one is not cheap, so I postpone it all the time. Doing resawing now mostly on the tablesaw with a little help from a handsaw. It makes for a wide kerf and loss of material.

[Jerry Olexa]

RESAWING by hand is not a fun thing.Agree.
I confess I "cave in" as needed and use power equipment occassionally.
This would be one of them.
G Luck with your project

[Pat Barry]

Pat, yes it's a 5.5 TPI Disston rip saw. I'm not an expert on saws but I think it's pretty sharp, certainly cuts nicely. The wood is Eastern Red Cedar, it's pretty soft and the saw eats through it quickly, but it's still slow going overall. sawing across the whole width of the board.
I suspect the teeth are loading up and affecting the cutting performance. Maybe time to get a buddy and pull that saw down from the wall and go after it. 😃

[steven c newman]

Oldtimers would spritz the blade of a rip saw with a bit of Kerosene....keeps the blade clean, and "lubes" the saw, a bit.

Even The Dungeon Shop has a Bandsaw.....12" model....about all the saw I really need. Getting harder to find the 80" blades it takes....

[John K Jordan]

... Getting harder to find the 80" blades it takes....

Do you have a local place that will make a blade to size? I get most blades from a local business, Holston Gases, which has a bandsaw blade shop where they whip up blades of any size from bulk rolls. They use Lennox stock but have ordered other stock for me on request. If the guy is not too busy he will make blades while I wait.

JKJ

[Jim Koepke]

Do you have a local place that will make a blade to size? I get most blades from a local business, Holston Gases, which has a bandsaw blade shop where they whip up blades of any size from bulk rolls. They use Lennox stock but have ordered other stock for me on request. If the guy is not too busy he will make blades while I wait.

JKJ

The local machine shop supply dealers buy blades made to size from their suppliers. Some of my blades have been purchased from on line sources.

Lots of choices for finding any size bandsaw blade one may need.

If someone is telling you they can't get an odd size blade, your talking to the wrong person.

jtk

[Warren Mickley]

Is there a better way to do this by hand? Because making panels this way kind of sucks.

Using a 5 1/2 saw for this is not the best way. Nicholson, writing in 1812 suggests that a panel saw has 6 teeth per inch and is used for "very thin stuff". He says a ripping saw has 8 teeth in three inches.

A more appropriate tool is a veneer saw, which is a frame saw with 2 or 3 teeth per inch.
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[Christopher Charles]

I'll merely echo what others have said... the skills are worth gaining, even if slow. And a good bandsaw is the most important power tool. My bandsaw cost more than my truck and I couldn't be happier :) I will note that some sort of dust collection will be necessary too, so you'll want to plan for that expense...

[Mike Allen1010]

LOL. BTW, a good job so far.

Save the hand work for the things that matter. Re-sawing isn't one of them. If I could have only one machine in my shop it would be a good bandsaw.

ken

+1 to what Ken said.

IMHO, there's no honor in re-sawing by hand; super time consuming, sweaty work that's much better and more easily done by BS. If I win the lottery, my first purchase will be the biggest, most powerful BS I can find. I'm far too old and fat to re-saw by hand.

Cheers, Mike

[Steven Mikes]

Thanks for the advice everyone. I went to the local Klingspor and bought a Rikon 14" bandsaw today, it's sitting in its box on the garage floor awaiting setup :)

[John K Jordan]

+1 to what Ken said.
IMHO, there's no honor in re-sawing by hand; super time consuming, sweaty work that's much better and more easily done by BS.


I love using hand tools where appropriate but I agree - some things are far better to do by machine. I assume a hard-core hand tool purist would cut down the tree and saw it into lumber by hand before making something. :)

I have an axe, wedges, two-man saw, froe, broad axe, and foot adze for fun but I have a chainsaw and Woodmizer sawmill for lumber. I would like to build a foot-operated spring pole lathe though. For the fun and experience.

[Jim Koepke]

I went to the local Klingspor and bought a Rikon 14" bandsaw today, it's sitting in its box on the garage floor awaiting setup

That looks to be a nice saw.

Looking forward to pictures and comments when you get it set up.

jtk

[Richard Hutchings]

I use to own that saw and wish I still did. When the time come to buy one I will not hesitate to buy the Rigid 14" and a riser block, if I'm buying new.

[Jim Koepke]

I use to own that saw and wish I still did. When the time come to buy one I will not hesitate to buy the Rigid 14" and a riser block, if I'm buying new.

The riser block idea intrigues me. My 14" bandsaw will re-saw a little better than 12" out of the box without a riser block. How much more could it cut with a riser block?

jtk

[Van Huskey]

If I win the lottery, my first purchase will be the biggest, most powerful BS I can find. I'm far too old and fat to re-saw by hand.

Cheers, Mike

Some inspiration for when you are buying your tickets. Note the "little" R800 only has 15hp so I suggest the R1000 which has a little more useful 30 hp.

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[Norman Pirollo]

Although I am a huge hand tool advocate, I cannot imagine resawing wide veneers by hand. The bandsaw, when properly tuned and with the correct blade, excels at this task. So if you're working with shop-sawn veneers, my vote is definitely on a bandsaw.

Norman
WOODSKILLS Magazine

[John Kananis]

I use to own that saw and wish I still did. When the time come to buy one I will not hesitate to buy the Rigid 14" and a riser block, if I'm buying new.

Richard, I have the Ridgid and I've done lots to it (although no riser block): Upgraded motor, upper/lower bearings, balanced wheels, Poly wheel treads, cast iron pulley (that aluminum thing it came with was a joke), cool blocks, reinforced base, etc, etc. Just spend the bucks on a better saw out of the box. Have just never been satisfied with this one.

[Van Huskey]

Richard, I have the Ridgid and I've done lots to it (although no riser block): Upgraded motor, upper/lower bearings, balanced wheels, Poly wheel treads, cast iron pulley (that aluminum thing it came with was a joke), cool blocks, reinforced base, etc, etc. Just spend the bucks on a better saw out of the box. Have just never been satisfied with this one.

The Ridgid and PC while they were still made were a lot like the HF saw now, it was a lottery whether you got a decent one or one that you could just never get right no matter how much time or money you sent on it (except lifting it up and putting a better one under it). Plus what many people miss is most of the clones aren't pefect clones and the Ridgid and PC both had very thin frame castings that lead to flexy saws.

[Richard Hutchings]

The Rigid 14" only cuts 6" without the riser which gets you to 12".