T-Track Types & Diff. Purposes

[Gary Curtis]

OK. I'm clueless. Why the 3/4 vs. 3/8 T-Track? Is it because of application, or the dimension of the wood where it is to be mounted?

Additionally, what is the purpose of the flanged T-Track offered by Lee Valley? The stuff with extended ridges on the bottom of the track? Does that address some widespread mounting problem with glue or screws?

New shop. New woodworker. No jigs. So the T-track fabrication begins in 3 weeks. In earnest.

Gary Curtis

[JayStPeter]

I picked a size of t-track and settled on it for my entire shop. IMO, the easiest t-track to use and find mating parts for is the kind that accepts 1/4" bolt heads. The size does make it impossible to flush mount in something that is 3/4" thick, so if you want to flush mount it, you must make your surfaces thicker. Holding power is limited by the screws you use and material screwed into. Short screws in MDF will not hold well for example.
The lee valley track attempts to address both problems. It has a thinner mounting and the flange will allow it more holding power with short screws. The disadvantage is that you have to use toilet bolt type things in it instead of the easier sourced 1/4" bolt. I'm going to buy a piece of the LV and see if the toilet bolts it uses are compatible with my other track. If so, I'll use it in some depth limited applications.

Jay

[Gary Curtis]

So if I bought the LV flanged track and standardized on that, something like a flip stop off a Kreg device fit?

[JayStPeter]

So if I bought the LV flanged track and standardized on that, something like a flip stop off a Kreg device fit?

The Kreg flip stop comes with a 1/4" bolt. You would probably have to replace the bolt with one of the ones from LV. On top of fences using the flip stop, I'd go with the non-flange version. Oh yeah, and the 1/4" version.

Jay