unloading a big bandsaw

[Bill Dufour]

Next week i will be buying a powermatic 20" bandsaw seller has a forklift and I plan to lay it on it's spine in the back of my pickup. It is 3/4" too long to close the tailgate so I will leave the tailgate at home. How should I unload it safely? It weighs about 800 pounds with the table removed.
I have a engine hoist but I do not see a logical way to rig it. maybe a sling to the base and one loop over the top arm and hoist it flat on its back and then drive truck out. set it down flat on the ground and rerig to tip it up. It just seems like the top lifting point may slip and let it pivot to some crazy angle very fast. Some people have said there is a one or two threaded holes on the top arm but not designed for a lifting point. I do know that Doall bandsaws, which weigh more, have a 3/4 tapped hole on top of the arm that allows a single point vertical lift.
This is a welded frame saw so I feel it is a bit easier to rig without causing irreparable damage.
It may be best to remove the welder to allow better angles. It is wired for 440 so the welder probably has to come out to be connected for 240 anyway.
Bill D.

[Patrick Walsh]

Moved many machines out of the back of the truck all by myself.

Make a ramp that rests on your bumper but is slightly lower than the bed of your truck. Make sure it is long and sloping gradually.

Now back up to your lawn remove your tailgate and prop up the ramp on your bumper. Now drive two large steaks into the ground where the ramp meets your lawn. This will insure the ramp can not kick out.

Put a moving blanket down and lay the saw on its spine. Screw 2x4’s across the ramp left to right every 12” or so. Then let it rip, slowly slide the saw out the back of the truck. When it gets to the first 2x4 unscrew it and watch it slide to the next one. Easy as that...

Make sure you have a couple pieces of scrap plywood to put at the end of the ramp for the saw to land on and for you to shuffle it off the lawn and onto a hard surface. You will easily be able to stand the saw up if you loaded it into the truck with the base towards the tailgate as the ramp will aid in you lifting it.

I just moved a 700lb Minimax bandsaw into my masement shop by myself last evening oddly enough.

Believe it or not I was able to lift the saw laying flat on its spine on the ground in my shop upright all by myself. I thought my spine was gonna explode but I was able to do it.

Just spend some time making strong ramps and thinking through how to make sure nothing can shift and you’ll be good.

Congrats new tools are a blast!

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[Chris Parks]

Lift horizontally out of the vehicle onto the ground and two people should be able to get it vertical though I would not do that until it is close to where it will live. Lift from the horizontal with the crane and a combination of crane and people power to get it from there to vertical. There is no need to complicate it but they can be tippy if allowed to get away from you. I did my 18" on my own from trailer to upright using a chain block. The other way is tilt the whole trailer to slide it out and stand up the BS from there. This requires more people as the trailer will have to be lowered.

[Van Huskey]

My approach would be building ramps to slide it down then strapping it to an appliance truck for the remainder of the trip if the truck can roll from the truck to where it needs to go. Since you mentioned a welder it is most likely a PM 87 which will be heavier than 800# due to the transmission. This will mean more weight is near the base and less tippy than a PM81 wood cutting saw.

[Bill Dufour]

Yes it is a 87. I believe it is quoted at 950 pounds. But if I remove the table that is a little less then 100 pounds off. Welder is probably 35 pounds or more.
Bill D

[Van Huskey]

Yes it is a 87. I believe it is quoted at 950 pounds. But if I remove the table that is a little less then 100 pounds off. Welder is probably 35 pounds or more.
Bill D


I've seen weights of over 1000# quoted for those, but like most "light weight" saws of that type they are bottom heavy so easier to manage. They are great saws though I am not a huge fan of the guides. They are angle hardened steel blocks from the factory they came with multiple thrust bearing sizes from the factory but they are "never" with the saws now. They will certainly work but I find them fiddly in the shape they are normally in especially on the metal cutting saws.

[Tim Hoyt]

My thoughts are to keep it upright the entire time. Could be healthier for both you and the saw. Yes it will be a bit harder to transport because of it's top heaviness. Hopefully it will fit thru your door upright. I loaded and unloaded my 20" delta bandsaw by myself (I do NOT recommend, get a friend). I removed the table and motor. I rented a U-Haul trailer that was designed for motorcycles. It was low to the ground and had a long strong ramp. I simply "walked" it up the ramp and into the trailer (you know, tilting it slightly and twisting). My saw had about a 1/2 of clearance at the door.

[Kevin Adams]

Looking good, Patrick, that’s one serious saw!! Did you end up getting the Martin, too?

Take care,
Kevin

[Bill Dufour]

I just thought of the easy way to tip a saw upright from laying on it's spine. Just bolt two long 2x4's onto the base through the mounting holes so they point into the sky. Pull them down and the saw will tip upright. If it goes too fast the 2x's will hit the ground and prevent it from overturning.
Bill D

[John McClanahan]

I have moved my 19" Grizzly by myself. I removed the table and band wheels, tipped it back on it's spine and slid it into my truck.


John

[Brian Holcombe]

I just thought of the easy way to tip a saw upright from laying on it's spine. Just bolt two long 2x4's onto the base through the mounting holes so they point into the sky. Pull them down and the saw will tip upright. If it goes too fast the 2x's will hit the ground and prevent it from overturning.
Bill D

I invited two friends with much larger builds than myself, and I provided refreshments. Worked wonderfully and fast :D

[Patrick Walsh]

It’s is,

And I did,

And I have not forgotten about you. Your next on the list..

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Looking good, Patrick, that’s one serious saw!! Did you end up getting the Martin, too?

Take care,
Kevin

[Tom M King]

One tool that has come in handy for moving tools many times, is a Maasdam Rope Puller. It's like a come-a-long, but not limited by a cable length. Johnny Means can tell you that I loaded a 24" bandsaw, by myself, with one. I use it with one of the 150' long tree work ropes.

http://www.maasdam.com/rope-pullers.html

I could have unloaded it myself, with help from the puller, but I have two powerlifters for helpers. They didn't have any trouble sliding it out of the back of the truck, and tipping it up.

[Matt Day]

I’d prefer it be on a low trailer on its spine, which is how I did mine. Move it backward on the trailer until you find the tipping point, with a friend let the base get to the ground and tip it upright.

Trailer rental is cheap.

[Kevin Adams]

Wow, that is somehow massive and sleek at the same time, a modern aircraft carrier!

And no no worries on the other, all is there when you’re ready and able. Hope life is good.

Kevin

[Jeff Heath]

Two of the best shop accessories I own are my pallet jack and my 2 ton shop hoist. I can lift and move all but the seriously heavy machines, and a pallet jack makes every machine mobile without spending the money for a mobile base for each machine.

$80 for the hoist, and $50 for the pallet jack.

Here's how I unloaded a 2500 lb. 36" Northfield bandsaw.....3 times the weight of the Powermatic.

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As I get older, I try to learn how to work smarter. If you don't have the space for the hoist (they fold up pretty tightly into a small vertical package roughly 24" X 24" floor space) most rental places will rent one for about $25 a day.

Every machine has a center balancing point, where it becomes much easier to sling a machine, and slowly and carefully stand it up. Also, I recommend moving the machine with the table off, especially if you're laying it down. The weakest link on all bandsaws are their table trunnions, and the most often broken part I find when restoring older machines. Don't lay the machine down on the table, as the first bump in the road will likely snap the trunnions. Been there, done that.

[Bill Dufour]

This plan bombed out. Seller had no help to tip saw onto its back. After I had conformed it would be loaded on it's back. Too heavy and tall to be upright in a little ford ranger.
Do people think it could be safely hauled upright in a full size pickup? Seems like the center of gravity would be too high and make it tippy. Not a good combination to be driving in southern California traffic. Or the high desert winds either.
Bill D

[Van Huskey]

This plan bombed out. Seller had no help to tip saw onto its back. After I had conformed it would be loaded on it's back. Too heavy and tall to be upright in a little ford ranger.
Do people think it could be safely hauled upright in a full size pickup? Seems like the center of gravity would be too high and make it tippy. Not a good combination to be driving in southern California traffic. Or the high desert winds either.
Bill D

My approach is to rent a Uhaul and strap them to an appliance truck and wheel them up the low ramp and strap it to the walls of the truck sitting upright then wheel it down. It adds cost but requires no lifting. That said that saw has a large base (much larger than the average modern steel bandsaw) and is not remotely as tippy as new saws. Strapped down well and it ain't going anywhere.

The only issue is IF you rent a truck make sure the height of the one you rent will allow the saw in upright if that is the plan. I will pay extra money to reduce the heartburn and anxiety. Others look at it differently.

[Jim Becker]

This plan bombed out. Seller had no help to tip saw onto its back. After I had conformed it would be loaded on it's back. Too heavy and tall to be upright in a little ford ranger.
Do people think it could be safely hauled upright in a full size pickup? Seems like the center of gravity would be too high and make it tippy. Not a good combination to be driving in southern California traffic. Or the high desert winds either.
Bill D
I personally feel that transporting a bandsaw on its spine is a good move if the structure supports it. These are "top-heavy" tools and it would be safer lying down. And I also feel it's easier to unload that way, too...

[Jerome Stanek]

I think I would build a sled that is just a tad shorter then the saw in the back of the truck. Bolt the saw down to it with the base just off the sled. Slide the whole thing off and let it sit on the ground and then stand it all the way up

[Matt Day]

Did you see my and Van’s suggestion of using a trailer?

[Bill Orbine]

I'm just surprised you and the seller we're not able to lay down the bandsaw using the forklift. At least that's what I figured from the get go when you mentioned seller has a forklift.

The way I see it is to securely strap top of bandsaw to the lift above the saw. Back the forklift to pull on upper saw to tilt it. And gently lower lift while backing the forklift. Then it's a matter of getting the bandsaw onto the Ranger using the forklift. One forklift driver and one nervous Ranger driver could do it.

[Bill Dufour]

If I rented a full size pickup do you think it would be safe to haul it upright. I would remove the table first. I have seen weights of 950-1200 pounds. How much work is it to remove the top wheel? Not sure if it is cast iron or aluminum. I believe for most bandsaws. the center of gravity is just below the bottom of the table. So a little less then half way up.
The guy relisted the saw at just less then 3 times the agreed on price. No wonder he did not want to try to hard to load it on my truck.
Bill D
Bill D.

[Tom M King]

With a full sized pickup, it should be no trouble to lay it on its spine. I see no advantage to carrying it upright. If you look at the picture I posted in post #13 in this thread, I nosed the truck up to a utility pole behind Johnny's shop, and pulled it right into the truck with the rope puller. I borrowed a stepladder to tie the rope high enough around the pole. The mattress is just a cheap foam one I use for moving stuff. The tarp is wrapped around the mattress to make it slicker. I don't remember using the aluminum floor jack, but carried it just in case. I did take the table off before it was even rolled over to the truck. The tailgate was taken off, before I left home, because I didn't want to bend it. That's a 24" Centauro, with cast iron wheels, and I had little trouble loading it by myself.

I carried some 2x4's to make what was needed to keep the bandsaw from tipping side to side during the ride back, but can't remember the details about how I did that.

That was about 300 miles from home, and the bandsaw wheel alignment was still perfect when we stood it back up in the shop.

[Van Huskey]

If I rented a full size pickup do you think it would be safe to haul it upright. I would remove the table first. I have seen weights of 950-1200 pounds. How much work is it to remove the top wheel? Not sure if it is cast iron or aluminum. I believe for most bandsaws. the center of gravity is just below the bottom of the table. So a little less then half way up.
The guy relisted the saw at just less then 3 times the agreed on price. No owner he did not want to try to hard to load it on my truck.
Bill D
Bill D.

As I mentioned before these saws have a lower than usual COG, this is due to the aluminum upper wheel and the large steel base, this is also helped on the metal cutting saw by the weight of the transmission (which is significant) being well under the table.

While if it is strapped down properly you will have no issues moving it upright in a truck but I would only do that if it is being forklift loaded and I had plenty of help (or a fork lift) on your end to unload. As I said I usually rent a Uhaul since I find a lot less grunt is needed to strap it to an appliance truck and roll it up and down the low ramp.

If you keep up with the paralysis via analysis you are likely to lose the machine. (A variation of rule number 5 of OWWM) I don't know the price you were offered but at this point if the price is still good I would do whatever it took to get it out of his shop ASAP. The PM 81/87 tends to be overpriced compared to the Delta and Yates equivalents and a metal worker will likely snap up an 87 if it sits too long.

[Keith Mathewson]

Here is my opinion.
Rent a flatbed trailer, your ranger pu is big enough. I have moved a lot of equipment including some big bandsaws. If you have access to a forklift there’s no reason not to transport it standing up. A good size leaver along with dunnage will get you to the point that the forks for the forklift will go underneath and pick it straight up. Bandsaws are only moderately top-heavy good quality ratchet straps will secure the bandsaw more than adequately. In the picture is a 32 inch bandsaw and 18 inch bandsaw, a 10 foot stroke sander and the cabinets Saw. These were all transported on a flatbed trailer standing up. One was transported from Denver to Seattle without issue. In addition this is the second floor of the shop, these were forklifted up 10 feet. Four or 5 3/4 inch pieces of black pipe where used to roll them into position without difficulty.

[Jeff Heath]

As has been stated a hundred times already, a trailer is the way to haul any big, heavy machinery. Lower to the ground for loading and unloading, and a lot easier to have multiple locations for securing ratcheting straps, chains and binders, etc.....to secure the load properly.

I hauled my 2750 lb. Yates American just under 1000 miles with no incident, and (very unfortunately to me) through 40 to 50 mph wind gusts the day I did the pickup. Very untimely bad luck for me, but I still made it safely.

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As you can see, I duct tape everything that is not bolted shut on the machine, like doors, electrical starter covers, etc.....and remove anything that can rattle loose, like blade guides, service doors, etc......I have learned this lesson the hard way, by getting home with machines from long hauls with parts missing that I knew were present at the beginning of the journey.

[Mark Hennebury]

387699 Don't risk a valuable machine to save a few dollars hire someone with the right equipment.

[Warren Lake]

you moved the bandsaw that way with a lift truck under it??? I moved a 36 Wadkin six hour drive. took the top section off lay both down flat. I didnt need a big sail behind my car but more so I just didnt want a 8 foot tall bandsaw standing up on a car trailer. Owner was pissed, he was paid not his problem, worked excellent assembled here when back with a skid steer to lift the top section and table. I could tarp it easily as well. I overstrap everythinng and last several had chains as well to the back of the trailer over and above the straps. As far s the wind ive borrowed some trailers that have the big tall fold down tail gates even those are horrible in wind drag on a day with no wind.

[Jeff Heath]

I keep my ramps off my trailer unless I'm hauling my skidloader. My trailer (shown) is 15,400 gvwr, and trails like a dream.

The pallet jack under it was there just for the ride. The bandsaw is sitting up on a pallet I built for it, and the pallet jack is tucked underneath, and strapped, as shown, to the bandsaw. I do this all the time, and always take my pallet jack with to maneuver a heavy machine over the axles for a balanced load.

You can't see in the photo, because you're looking at the back of the saw, but I removed the upper Snowflake door, and duct taped the lower doors all the way around so they could not move at all. Their door pins were seized when I got it. I knew I was doing a complete teardown restoration to this saw, so it was all coming apart anyway.

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[Darcy Warner]

625 miles, 75mph, only took one knob off, will lift it off tomorrow by picking it up from the arm. 387700

[Warren Lake]

thanks jeff on that you have a serious trailer and tow vehicle as well. Mine was 16 foot car trailer pulled with an 83 chev wagon with a 305, even the 350 now on this one cant stand a trailer with a gate, creates a lot more drag. At your level its irrelevant. Thanks Darcy as well. Im still glad i moved mine the way I did even if it was an hour more work when I got it home to assemble it. I moved my pickup on the car trailer years ago and every time I looked in the rear view mirror I thought someone was tailgating me.

[Joe Calhoon]

This plan bombed out. Seller had no help to tip saw onto its back. After I had conformed it would be loaded on it's back. Too heavy and tall to be upright in a little ford ranger.
Do people think it could be safely hauled upright in a full size pickup? Seems like the center of gravity would be too high and make it tippy. Not a good combination to be driving in southern California traffic. Or the high desert winds either.
Bill D

i think upright is the best way to haul bandsaws if you have a hoist or forklift to load and unload. The guy I bought our little 20” Hema from did not have a fork lift so we hoisted it from a beam in his shop with a chain hoist. This was a 75 mile trip. I would move my 36” the same way.
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[Patrick Walsh]

Joe,

What I want to know is where you found a Martin fork truck ;)

[Jeff Heath]

That's a "Martin" skidloader......:D

[Edwin Santos]

Don't places like Enterprise and UHaul rent box trucks with lift gates? What could be easier than rolling the bandsaw onto the lift gate and then into the truck or into your shop?

Better yet, local movers have these trucks, and they always have down time, especially in the middle of the month. If you call one up and offer the least amount you are willing to pay, you might be surprised at the answer.

I wonder if the OP's saw is still available.

Edwin

[Joe Calhoon]

It has a German diesel! Color is not right though.

[Bob Bouis]

I disagree about standing it up, at least if you have a garage or shop with a shorter overhead door. If that's the case you're going to have to tip it over at some point to get it in the shop and you might as well do it before transport so you can just back the truck into the shop and stand the thing up right out of the bed. Large bandsaws are not that hard to stand up, especially if you have a headstart from a pickup or trailer bed. Load it with the base facing the rear, then back into the shop. Pull the saw out halfway so it's hanging off the bed and the weight is close to balanced, tip it down until it's got two feet on the ground, then stand it up. You and a friend or two can probably muscle it, but if you can't, it's easy to apply mechanical advantage.

Oh, yeah, and during transport it really helps to screw down some 2x4 or 4x4 scraps to the bed to keep the thing from sliding around on you.

[Darcy Warner]

Tipping a big saw over, 2k to 3k pounds has never really seemed all that appealing to me.

[Warren Lake]

Bob made a good point I forgot about garage door height low but 11 feet inside and this one was going in the garage. So it went in in three pieces then assembled where i had the height.

[Van Huskey]

On the garage door issue. The PM87 will slide under a 7' garage door without tipping but it needs to be slide on ply or walked in very small steps. I say this but 7' garage doors are not all the exact same height, depends how they were installed.

[Darcy Warner]

The F&E 950 barely made it in my 10'6" overhead door today. I don't think it will fit under the one sprinkler branch in here.

[Warren Lake]

Jeff what are those things hanging on the wall with handles on them?

[Jeff Heath]

Jeff what are those things hanging on the wall with handles on them?

Ha ha!:D I enjoy the peace and tranquility of hand work in the shop most often. Power machines are there for when I'm in a hurry.......work.