Queen sized bed frame..out of Pine

[steven c newman]

The Boss wanted something besides a cheap, metal frame that a mattress just sat on...
Un-treated Pine 4 x 4s for the posts
2 x 10s for the rails
Padded headboard panel was 1/2" plywood, covered with 1" foam, covered with gray fabric...
Finish was a Rustoleum Weathered Gray Stain/varnish....
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Side rails connect to the head and foot boards via 2 lag screws. Need to be able to take the bed apart for any moves.
Head and foot boards are glued and screwed together. # slats, screwed in place, support a sheet of 3/4" plywood. It needed a filler along one edge...to get the 5' width.

Bed is solid as a rock, does not even slide around on the floor. Post have a bead detail on the "show sides"
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[Lee Schierer]

Very nice bed. Pine is a soft wood so I hope you don't have problems with the lag screws tearing out. I tend to use t-nuts or cross dowels and regular bolts when I can hide them. In built up posts I have hidden the t-nuts or cross dowels inside the post before it is glued up with a clearance hole in the next layer for the bolt to thread into.

Sleep well.

[steven c newman]

Might take a closer look...rails are "housed" in notches in the posts. Lags go through long grain, and into long grain...Rails are also "stopped" by the head or foot board's rails..
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Note where the rail meets the foot board..and how it is fitted in place. Post closest to the camera also shows the notch to house the rail. Lags go through the rail, through counter-bored pilot holes, and into the post....Rail butts up tight to the foot board' s rail..which is glued and screwed in place. The head and foot board can be moved as units....just remove the side rails.

[steven c newman]

And, a look at the lags and the holes they go into..
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I used a 1/2" socket to drive the lags home. Bit laying there was used after this other one
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Made the 13/16" counter bore.
Rails fit tightly into the notches in the posts.

[Charlie Jones]

Nicely doe. Sometimes the simpler way is the most practical .