Upgrade table saw or get a jointer

[Sean Bice]

I have been a member here for awhile but have never posted. So, hello.

My wife has finally given me the go ahead to spend some money. But I can only get one new tool right now. It will likely be until Christmas until I can get the next one. I started woodworking about 18 months ago and got the Ridgid R4512 saw shortly after I started. It's fine but not the best. Should I upgrade my table saw now and purchase a jointer later (I don't have one at all), or get the jointer now and wait on the table saw?

[Derek Cohen]

Sean, I'm not familiar with the Ridgid, so had a look on line. It looks a fairly decent saw, good enough to get you by for a while, too good to upgrade for the sake of upgrading when you can add to the equipment with something equally important.

Now I do not know how much your budget it, but I would consider a jointer-planer/thicknesser if you can extend to this. Ideally 12" but even 10" would be an advance on any 8" jointer you could purchase. Consider used machines, if necessary. That would give you a set of foundation machines to prepare boards from rough.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Sean Bice]

Sean, I'm not familiar with the Ridgid, so had a look on line. It looks a fairly decent saw, good enough to get you by for a while, too good to upgrade for the sake of upgrading when you can add to the equipment with something equally important.

Now I do not know how much your budget it, but I would consider a jointer-planer/thicknesser if you can extend to this. Ideally 12" but even 10" would be an advance on any 8" jointer you could purchase. Consider used machines, if necessary. That would give you a set of foundation machines to prepare boards from rough.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Derek

Thanks for the reply. I currently have a stand alone planer. My budget right now is about $2000-$3000.

[Prashun Patel]

I see you have a planer already (that would have been my vote).

I'd get a jointer next and then a bandsaw. Then I'd consider upgrading the table saw if you think you need to.

[Sean Bice]

I see you have a planer already (that would have been my vote).

I'd get a jointer next and then a bandsaw. Then I'd consider upgrading the table saw if you think you need to.

Thanks. I have a bandsaw, drill press, dust collector, etc. The biggest thing I am missing is a jointer. So far suggestions seem to be for a jointer over the table saw upgrade. I would probably only be able to get a 8" jointer.

[eugene thomas]

Not all shops have/need a jointed but I do and with your budget would get 12 helical jointed
If not already have good blades for tablesaw buy some. I really like the freud lately.

[glenn bradley]

+1 on the jointer. One thing we're good at is spending other people's money ;-)

I rarely need more than an 8" jointer but, frequently found a 6" too narrow. This will vary with how you prep your stock. I don't mill large boards and then cut parts out of them. I select material and breakdown stock into over-sized blanks that are large enough to be milled safely but, not so large that I have to overcome defects that will just get removed later anyway.

The larger than 8" and insert-head versus knife debates can wage on and on but, you are asking for our opinions. Mine is an 8" insert head, primarily for the figured materials I use but, almost as important is the cost savings over time. My insert heads paid for themselves years ago based on my previous knife sharpening/replacing schedule. I picked up a full replacement set for one machine during an introductory offer along the way so I've saved even more. You can do this too if you know what you are looking for and react when the opportunity comes along.

[Derek Cohen]

Derek

Thanks for the reply. I currently have a stand alone planer. My budget right now is about $2000-$3000.

Sean, sell the planer and get a combo 12" jointer-planer. You will not look back with a 12" jointer! Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/JET-JJP-12-12-Inch-Jointer-Planer/dp/B0011TKF8G) has the Jet for $2200.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Sean Bice]

Sean, sell the planer and get a combo 12" jointer-planer. You will not look back with a 12" jointer! Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/JET-JJP-12-12-Inch-Jointer-Planer/dp/B0011TKF8G) has the Jet for $2200.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Is the 55" long bed good enough? I see a lot of jointers have 76" beds.

[Marshall Harrison]

Jointer gets my vote too.

You have a pretty decent table saw plus some of the other things a shop needs. I would get a jointer (how big depends on the types of work you plan to do) and maybe a better saw blade for the table saw.

I only have a 6.25" Rigid jointer but it was given to me. I'm happy with my jointer and planer that I have. If an when I start doing lots of projects that require wider lumber then I'll upgrade.

[Derek Cohen]

Sean, 55" is ample for the furniture I build. I have never felt that the beds are short. I was aware that the bed was too narrow when I had an 8" jointer.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Rod Sheridan]

I suggest the 12" J/P combo, as others have said................Regards, Rod.

[andy bessette]

For me, more important than a jointer would be a good track saw, like the Festool.

[Sean Bice]

For me, more important than a jointer would be a good track saw, like the Festool.

Thanks for the input. I have a track saw, it's a great tool.

[Charlie Hinton]

I took a look at the table saw online too and it looks perfectly serviceable to me too.
spend time and adjust it so the blade is perfectly square to the table top and the miter slots.
Then get the fence adjusted parallel to the blade and square to the table top.
Finally spend the money and buy a Woodworker II 40 tooth blade. The one that lives on my saw has the flat top tooth profile and I like it a lot.

Now how how would I spend your $2000-$3000 budget ?? ;)
Not knowing what electricity you have installed I will stick to 120v tools.
Only knowing that you have the tablesaw and a planer you can add a lot more very serviceable tools to your shop with $3000.
Many here have good luck with used tools and I am not opposed to that route, but I am not going to do refurb to get one going...so I am a new tool kinda guy.
6" jointer the hobbyist standard issue, $600 for the Ridgid jointer at Home Depot every day. I have one and love it, would 8" be better...sure, but it's a lot bigger, needs 220v, and costs a lot more.
14" bandsaw another hobbyist standard around $1000-$1500. Laguna and Rikon are the popular ones now and they are nice saws the 14-12 or the 10-326 would be very nice. I sill think the cast iron Delta clones made by Jet are very viable options too. I have the Jet entry level 14" saw, I like it a lot. I have spent money upgrading it and would like the Deluxe Pro at $1030 better. Depending on how you feel about Grizzly you may find good value there.
Wow I still have almost half of your budget left.
I would spend a good chunk of it on a dust collector and I wouldn't mess around with the Harbor Freight solution. I would get a 1 1/2hp Jet or Laguna cyclone. No they aren't in the same class as Oneida or Clearview but they are quieter, very compact, run on 120V, and will do a good job.
There's still enough money to buy an ambient air cleaner if you want one too.

Good luck, have fun, anytime you want me to spend you money let me know.

[Sean Bice]

I took a look at the table saw online too and it looks perfectly serviceable to me too.
spend time and adjust it so the blade is perfectly square to the table top and the miter slots.
Then get the fence adjusted parallel to the blade and square to the table top.
Finally spend the money and buy a Woodworker II 40 tooth blade. The one that lives on my saw has the flat top tooth profile and I like it a lot.

Now how how would I spend your $2000-$3000 budget ?? ;)
Not knowing what electricity you have installed I will stick to 120v tools.
Only knowing that you have the tablesaw and a planer you can add a lot more very serviceable tools to your shop with $3000.
Many here have good luck with used tools and I am not opposed to that route, but I am not going to do refurb to get one going...so I am a new tool kinda guy.
6" jointer the hobbyist standard issue, $600 for the Ridgid jointer at Home Depot every day. I have one and love it, would 8" be better...sure, but it's a lot bigger, needs 220v, and costs a lot more.
14" bandsaw another hobbyist standard around $1000-$1500. Laguna and Rikon are the popular ones now and they are nice saws the 14-12 or the 10-326 would be very nice. I sill think the cast iron Delta clones made by Jet are very viable options too. I have the Jet entry level 14" saw, I like it a lot. I have spent money upgrading it and would like the Deluxe Pro at $1030 better. Depending on how you feel about Grizzly you may find good value there.
Wow I still have almost half of your budget left.
I would spend a good chunk of it on a dust collector and I wouldn't mess around with the Harbor Freight solution. I would get a 1 1/2hp Jet or Laguna cyclone. No they aren't in the same class as Oneida or Clearview but they are quieter, very compact, run on 120V, and will do a good job.
There's still enough money to buy an ambient air cleaner if you want one too.

Good luck, have fun, anytime you want me to spend you money let me know.

Charlie

Thank you for the input. I really appreciate it. The biggest issue with the table saw is the fence. No matter how many times I square it up, it gets out of alignment. I have the blade square and seems to be holding fine.

I have 240v available. I have a few Grizzly tools. I have a 14" band saw and a 2hp dust collector from them.

I think I will look into upgrading my table saw fence and look for a jointer.

Thanks.

[John Sanford]

I'm going to drop into the 12" Jointer/Planer camp with Derek. Depending on where you are and whether or not you're willing to be patient, you may be able to get lucky like I did and score a used European 12" J/P (Minimax FS30) for $1,200. More realistically, finding one used for $2,500 shouldn't be to much trouble, and there are the Asian J/P machines in your price range. Because I was able to sell my 6" jointer and 2 lunchbox planers, the net cost to me was only a couple hundred dollars.

I can't say how many times I ran up against the width limitations on my 6" jointer, except to say it was enough that when I saw the Minimax FS30 pop up on our local Craigslist equivalent I called and went over IMMEDIATELY. I know that since I've gotten it I have jointed things 10"+ wide, so a 8" jointer would still have left me stuck.

[Sean Bice]

I'm going to drop into the 12" Jointer/Planer camp with Derek. Depending on where you are and whether or not you're willing to be patient, you may be able to get lucky like I did and score a used European 12" J/P (Minimax FS30) for $1,200. More realistically, finding one used for $2,500 shouldn't be to much trouble, and there are the Asian J/P machines in your price range. Because I was able to sell my 6" jointer and 2 lunchbox planers, the net cost to me was only a couple hundred dollars.

I can't say how many times I ran up against the width limitations on my 6" jointer, except to say it was enough that when I saw the Minimax FS30 pop up on our local Craigslist equivalent I called and went over IMMEDIATELY. I know that since I've gotten it I have jointed things 10"+ wide, so a 8" jointer would still have left me stuck.


Thanks, John.

I live in Dallas. I have been keeping my eye open on the used market for a long time. Very little has shown up that was worth it. I have been late on a few. Asked if available less than an hour after posting and still got beat. Most people want too much for a used machine. After talking to my wife I am going to watch for a used jointer and hopefully something pops up in the next few months. I was really looking at Grizzly but they are having stock issues on jointers. Some have been on backorder for over 6 months.

[Lee Schierer]

My son recently purchased a 4512. It was pretty well aligned out of the box, but a few minor adjustments made it better. Get a Freud glue line rip blade for it and a Freud LU82M blade to replace your OEM blade and you should have a good saw.

Get the jointer now.

[Wade Lippman]

Your saw ought to be fine. I've never used one, but you ought to be able to square the fence.

I would buy an 8" jointer with an insert cutter. Obviously many love their jointer/planers, but they seem like a sad compromise to me. There are probably 10x as many times that I need a 15" planer (rather than a 12") than I need a 12" jointer (than a 8"), and I would hate to put up with a 55" bed and knives. But I guess we all work differently.

[Joe Hollis]

Hello,

Like others I would suggest that you consider buying a jointer before upgrading your table saw. Up until about a year ago I only had a table saw and small planer, and when I bought a used Rigid 6" jointer I was able to do work that I could only do by hand previously (and not very well). I am just a hobby woodworker, but I think the combination of the two tools will broaden the range of work you can do, and will increase your enjoyment of woodworking.

Joe H.



I have been a member here for awhile but have never posted. So, hello.

My wife has finally given me the go ahead to spend some money. But I can only get one new tool right now. It will likely be until Christmas until I can get the next one. I started woodworking about 18 months ago and got the Ridgid R4512 saw shortly after I started. It's fine but not the best. Should I upgrade my table saw now and purchase a jointer later (I don't have one at all), or get the jointer now and wait on the table saw?

[Simon MacGowen]

Sean,

Against the tide here: don't get a jointer since you have a thickness planer which can do both jointing (narrow stock) and planing. Tons of information on this on the web, just google. A jointer, normally 6 or 8 in, is no match to a 12 or 13" good quality thickness planer.

For edge jointing of wide stock which many use their jointers to do can be safely and accurately done on the tablesaw even if your saw does not cut dead square. Again google jointing on the tablesaw to find lots of information. I build furniture projects and work with mostly hardwood, rough lumber as well and have not used a jointer since I sold it years ago. Tables, benches, cabinets and all of them without one single cut on a jointer.

So, if you have $2000 to $3000, the best investment would be in a SawStop PCS unless you go the sliding saw path. No need for me to repeat why it is such a great machine in a shop but it is a fact that it is the #1 selling cabinet saw in NA. Its dust collection and mobility (upgrade options) will make your woodworking less dusty. You can't find a cabinet saw better than SawStop on those two accounts, not to mention its finger and palm saving technology.

If the tablesaw you have already meets all of your needs, then the Festool Domino Joiner would be my recommendation if you are into furniture building. The Domino Joiner will replace the biscuit joiner, mortising machine, dowel jig, Kreg jig and even dado cutter in one go (at least that was my case).

Sell your Ridgid which may get you a couple hundred bucks back and use the money to buy lumber or accessories for your tablesaw or Domino Joiner.

Simon

[Brian Nguyen]

Get the 8" joiner, your TS is fine (just tune it up). Most power tools are luxury items, I can't think of any tasks that you can't do by hand. But like any other power tool, a jointer will make you much, much more productive with your projects. You can use hand tools like a neanderthal, or make jigs for jointing at the TS or router table, but nothing beats flipping a switch and squaring up a board within seconds.

So don't become paralyzed by the 1,001 suggestions being thrown around, just listen to mine and order that 8" jointer ;)






I have been a member here for awhile but have never posted. So, hello.

My wife has finally given me the go ahead to spend some money. But I can only get one new tool right now. It will likely be until Christmas until I can get the next one. I started woodworking about 18 months ago and got the Ridgid R4512 saw shortly after I started. It's fine but not the best. Should I upgrade my table saw now and purchase a jointer later (I don't have one at all), or get the jointer now and wait on the table saw?

[andy bessette]

I would not want to be handicapped by that table saw.

[Charlie Hinton]

I don't think spending money on a new fence for this saw is the greatest idea.
Of course I bought a Kreg fence and roller bearings for my entry level 14" Jet bandsaw and I have my eye on the riser block now....so I have some experience with bad ideas when it comes to tricking up tools.
Sean, I live in Rowlett and I am retired.
If I don't have to drive through downtown Dallas I could come and look at the fence with you.
Just throwing that out there if you are interested in having second eyes on it.

[Roger Marty]

Jointer and fence upgrade for the R4512

[Charlie Hinton]

I think I scared him off.

[Simon MacGowen]

I think I scared him off.

I had used the Ridgid saws (two different models, one with the granite top). I fully agree with your "I don't think spending money on a new fence for this saw is the greatest idea." The weakest link in the Ridgid saw is not the fence.

Simon

[Roger Marty]

I had used the Ridgid saws (two different models, one with the granite top). I fully agree with your "I don't think spending money on a new fence for this saw is the greatest idea." The weakest link in the Ridgid saw is not the fence.

Simon

I completely disagree! The fence is absolutely the weakest part of the saw. The rest is fine...especially the newer ones with the "II" trunnion design that doesn't have the blade shift issue.

The fence cannot lock down repeatably straight. The rails are flimsy and a single rail is made up of two separate pieces. The best I could do was apply pressure to the left side of the T when locking down, and that would help. But it was still not repeatably perpendicular. I had blade burn problems like crazy.

spending $200 on a Delta T3 takes this saw to the next level.

[Roger Marty]

I completely disagree! The fence is absolutely the weakest part of the saw. The rest is fine...especially the newer ones with the "II" trunnion design that doesn't have the blade shift issue.

The fence cannot lock down repeatably straight. The rails are flimsy and a single rail is made up of two separate pieces. The best I could do was apply pressure to the left side of the T when locking down, and that would help. But it was still not repeatably perpendicular. I had blade burn problems like crazy.

spending $200 on a Delta T3 takes this saw to the next level.

This is a good illustration of the problem and how one person fixed it: http://lumberjocks.com/topics/58544

Not upgrading the fence on an R4512 is the worst advice i've ever read on this forum!

[andy bessette]

...spending $200 on a Delta T3 takes this saw to the next level.

That next level is far beneath a PM66 or Unisaw. Better to take that $200, plus whatever that saw can be sold for, and put it towards a real cabinet saw.

[Charlie Hinton]

Not upgrading the fence on an R4512 is the worst advice i've ever read on this forum

LOL, if the worst advice you have seen is to not spend $200 to upgrade a $600 saw you need to read more of the forum.....
Just messing with ya...sorta...

[Simon MacGowen]

This is a good illustration of the problem and how one person fixed it: http://lumberjocks.com/topics/58544

Not upgrading the fence on an R4512 is the worst advice i've ever read on this forum!

Spending $1,500 on a fancy set of tires won't get a Civic up to speed with a Porche.

Upgrading the fence on the Ridgid won't lift it to the next level of performance. One does not need to buy a new fence to fix an alignment issue. The factory Ridgid fence was fine and if it wasn't, adjust it. I had used two models of the Ridgid saw and set their fences with ease as compared to those on the SawStop ICS and PCS. I had to scratch my head as to how one would recommend buying a replacement fence as a solution to a problem that could be resolved easily. There may be a learning curve but the manual is sufficient for doing the alignments by the saw owner.

Ridgid isn't a bad one, quite a good saw for its price ($600 or so), but spending money on a better fence would not do much to improve its performance.

Spend time on the manual, do the alignment and spend the money not on the fence but on lumber. Better yet, get a SawStop with the $3000.

Simon

[Roger Marty]

Have you used the R4512 for an extended period of time? I have. As others have pointed out elsewhere (particularly the lumberjacks thread), you cannot lock down the fence with any kind of decent precision. Which means you cannot adjust.

I ended up getting a SawStop PCS. But a fence upgrade would absolutely take the R4512 to the level of a Grizzly G0770

[Simon MacGowen]

Have you used the R4512 for an extended period of time? I have. As others have pointed out elsewhere (particularly the lumberjacks thread), you cannot lock down the fence with any kind of decent precision. Which means you cannot adjust.

I ended up getting a SawStop PCS. But a fence upgrade would absolutely take the R4512 to the level of a Grizzly G0770

You and I have different levels of expectation when it comes to saw performance and recommendation. I am basing my recommendation on getting the OP a saw that he would meet his needs for his next 20 years at a level that fine woodworking demands, given the kind of money he has. No upgrade or replacement for the next 20 yrs unless something better is released.

I do fine woodworking only as a hobbyist and a Powermatic or similar saws would be necessary. As a SawStop PCS user, you should know better throwing money on a Ridgid at a percentage of $200 over $600 is questionable to say the least.

Simon

[Doug Hobkirk]

OP, I wish you well finding a good jointer.
And thanks for the post - you've started a gang war and it's very entertaining. Now, where did I put my popcorn?

[Charlie Hinton]

With a budget of up to $3k (and considering the Ridgid tablesaw is apparently having issues) I would spend the big money on a high end table saw before I spent it on a high end jointer.
But it's not my money or my shop.
I hope the OP finds the tool he wants and is pleased with it long term.

I didn't intend to come off as a stalker and scare him away when I offered to look at the saw with him.

[Roger Marty]

You and I have different levels of expectation when it comes to saw performance and recommendation. I am basing my recommendation on getting the OP a saw that he would meet his needs for his next 20 years at a level that fine woodworking demands, given the kind of money he has. No upgrade or replacement for the next 20 yrs unless something better is released.

I do fine woodworking only as a hobbyist and a Powermatic or similar saws would be necessary. As a SawStop PCS user, you should know better throwing money on a Ridgid at a percentage of $200 over $600 is questionable to say the least.

Simon

I have a SawStop PCS 1.75 hp. Yes, it is a nicer saw than the R4512 that I replaced. But it doesn't spin a blade any better than the R4512 did. About the same amount of hp and both have heavy cast iron tops. Biggest difference I notice is the fence and having cast iron wings is nice too. And the SawStop had better dust collection.

The SawStop has indeed advanced my woodworking, compared to the R4512, but only because of the accurate T-Glide fence.

Maybe your woodworking is advanced by 3hp or something??

I bought the SawStop for safety.

[Simon MacGowen]

I have a SawStop PCS 1.75 hp. Yes, it is a nicer saw than the R4512 that I replaced. But it doesn't spin a blade any better than the R4512 did. About the same amount of hp and both have heavy cast iron tops. Biggest difference I notice is the fence and having cast iron wings is nice too. And the SawStop had better dust collection.

The SawStop has indeed advanced my woodworking, compared to the R4512, but only because of the accurate T-Glide fence.

Maybe your woodworking is advanced by 3hp or something??

I bought the SawStop for safety.

Using 1.75, 3 and 5Hp. You are missing a lot if you think the power and safety are what set a Ridgid and a SS apart.

Simon

[Roger Marty]

Using 1.75, 3 and 5Hp. You are missing a lot if you think the power and safety are what set a Ridgid and a SS apart.

Simon

Well I'm sort of asking you what does set them apart functionally? What exact features results in better/easier/faster woodworking?

[eugene thomas]

Simon bows to his ss every time comes in his shop. So he's kind of biased.

[Simon MacGowen]

[QUOTE=Roger Marty;2818901]Well I'm sort of asking you what does set them apart

You know you are saying the same thing dont you? Great tires make great cars.

By the way, I do bow a lot when resetting the blade angle.

Simon

[Simon MacGowen]

Simon bows to his ss every time comes in his shop. So he's kind of biased.

Biased? Guilty as charged if you meant passionate. The ss has been a game changer to me...quantum jump in the quality and efficiency of work. Previously, I struggled with setting a new saw to work, with the built-in inaccuracy of the machine, and hence the weak results of most cuts.

I am biased too towards doing only fine woodworking. Are you?

Simon

[eugene thomas]

Ya. But my small slider was my game changer over using cabinet saw for 25 or so years.

[Simon MacGowen]

Ya. But my small slider was my game changer over using cabinet saw for 25 or so years.
If so, you should know the difference between bias and passion.

Simon

[Randy Smith]

Not much of a poster but I had to chime in here. I don't really understand the question. OP has a serviceable tablesaw but no jointer. Get a jointer. How do you start a project without a flat board? Sure you do the sled in the planer, but that's pretty time consuming and you still need to work out some way to edge joint if you're gonna glue up panels. Face and edge jointing are foundational steps that ensure the rest of the project turns out well. If his budget is 2-3k, he can get a new grizzly 8" jointer AND grizzly cabinet saw for less that 3k. Forgo the helical head and keep the price down. 2 cents.

[andy bessette]

...How do you start a project without a flat board?...

Start with a flat board by buying surfaced lumber. Edge joint with a track saw, table saw, router/table. A thickness planer is much more important, if you do any resawing.

[Charlie Hinton]

The OP is gone, but during discussion he stated he could not make the fence on the tablesaw be repeatedly square and was considering replacing the fence.
Thats when the thread exploded.

[Jacob Mac]

Depending on your taste in tools, you could get a nice table saw and an 8 inch jointer from Grizzly for 3k

[Marshall Harrison]

Start with a flat board by buying surfaced lumber. Edge joint with a track saw, table saw, router/table. A thickness planer is much more important, if you do any resawing.

From what I've read lots of times even surfaced wood needs to be edge jointed and face jointed. You could work around that to some degree with a planer but you end up sending more of your wood into the dust collector.

My recommendation has changed. I like the idea of getting a Grizzly table saw and jointer. Sell the Rigid and that should increase his budget some.

[Randy Smith]

True. I may be biased because I sell rough sawn lumber to woodworkers but buying surfaced lumber doesn't always work out. That surfaced board may have sat around for a while giving it plenty time to move again. Also, you have to know a little about who/how it was surfaced. Some places may just run it through the planer twice. That ain't a flat board. Bigger operations may have a strait-o-plane or equal which does face joint and plane at the same time.


Start with a flat board by buying surfaced lumber. Edge joint with a track saw, table saw, router/table. A thickness planer is much more important, if you do any resawing.

[andy bessette]

...That surfaced board may have sat around for a while giving it plenty time to move again. Also, you have to know a little about who/how it was surfaced...

I visually inspect each piece of lumber I buy. It is SO simple to get good, flat lumber. And SO simple to straighten an edge. As a professional woodworker I went for many years without a jointer. It is a very easy workaround.

[John Sincerbeaux]

I visually inspect each piece of lumber I buy. It is SO simple to get good, flat lumber. And SO simple to straighten an edge. As a professional woodworker I went for many years without a jointer. It is a very easy workaround.

Hmmmmmm?
I don’t know how a ANY professional woodworker could survive without a jointer. At least 50% of the wood I buy is purchased sight unseen. Try buying Koa, Gaboon Ebony, highly figured Maple or Claro Walnut from your local hardwood supplier. Most lumber in this class will need need to be milled after purchase.

Let’s face it, Woodworking is an expensive hobby or occupation. Like most things in life, you have to pay to play.
My advice to ANY woodworker, don’t “cheap” the essentials.

[Andrew Joiner]

Hmmmmmm?
I don’t know how a ANY professional woodworker could survive without a jointer. At least 50% of the wood I buy is purchased sight unseen. Try buying Koa, Gaboon Ebony, highly figured Maple or Claro Walnut from your local hardwood supplier. Most lumber in this class will need need to be milled after purchase.

Let’s face it, Woodworking is an expensive hobby or occupation. Like most things in life, you have to pay to play.
My advice to ANY woodworker, don’t “cheap” the essentials.



I was a professional woodworker for a long time. I made mostly office furniture, store fixtures and some cabinets. My shop was in a big city and my lumber wholesalers offered S3S lumber for a slight up charge. It was way cheaper to pay them to do it than use my jointer.

When you have to guarantee your work, kiln dried graded hardwood from a supplier that delivers was a better choice. It was for me. I never used my jointer and rarely the planer after I got into S3S lumber. Time is money and S3S lumber was a more efficient choice. It was "sight unseen" but if it wasn't straight and flat or within grade it got sent back to the yard for credit. I rarely if ever sent any back.

[Simon MacGowen]

My advice to ANY woodworker, don’t “cheap” the essentials.

I can't agree more with this even woodworking is not my day time job.

One of the essentials in my shop is the tablesaw and the SawStop is my personal after using its big brothers for over a decade. I won't recommend any other cabinet saws to anyone whose requirement is professional quality cuts - 100% of the time.

I had used jointers ftom 6" up to 12" for years and 9 out of 10 other jointer users would not have the jointer skills like minea including some of you who recommend a jointer purchase. 4 out of 5 jointer users I know do not know how to flatten a twisted board longer that 6 feet. Cups...piece of cake but not a 8 feet long twisted stock. So a jointer is pretty useless to many unless you actually have the skills. But with a thickness planer, you need a simple sled and simple techniques to flatten a board, twisted or not.

You can flatten one side of a board with a jointer but not both and you still need a thickness planer.

The OP already has a thickness planer and has a saw that he is not happy with. Adding a new fence at 1/3 of the cost of the saw is not a wise move and adding a jointer to his shop is unnecessary. I work with mostly rough lumber and as I said, everything is done on the thickness planer after the jointer was sold.

I also agree s4s lumber is expensive and limit your options but it is doable if you do projects on that basis, but I wouldn't go that path.

Simon

[Roger Marty]

I can't agree more with this even woodworking is not my day time job.

One of the essentials in my shop is the tablesaw and the SawStop is my personal after using its big brothers for over a decade. I won't recommend any other cabinet saws to anyone whose requirement is professional quality cuts - 100% of the time.

I had used jointers ftom 6" up to 12" for years and 9 out of 10 other jointer users would not have the jointer skills like minea including some of you who recommend a jointer purchase. 4 out of 5 jointer users I know do not know how to flatten a twisted board longer that 6 feet. Cups...piece of cake but not a 8 feet long twisted stock. So a jointer is pretty useless to many unless you actually have the skills. But with a thickness planer, you need a simple sled and simple techniques to flatten a board, twisted or not.

You can flatten one side of a board with a jointer but not both and you still need a thickness planer.

The OP already has a thickness planer and has a saw that he is not happy with. Adding a new fence at 1/3 of the cost of the saw is not a wise move and adding a jointer to his shop is unnecessary. I work with mostly rough lumber and as I said, everything is done on the thickness planer after the jointer was sold.

I also agree s4s lumber is expensive and limit your options but it is doable if you do projects on that basis, but I wouldn't go that path.

Simon

I'm still waiting to hear how a 1.75hp SawStop (that I own) results in better or more accurate cuts than a properly tuned $800 R4512 + Delta t3 fence setup (which I used to own).

[Charlie Hinton]

I'm still waiting to hear how a 1.75hp SawStop (that I own) results in better or more accurate cuts than a properly tuned $800 R4512 + Delta t3 fence setup (which I used to own).

Maybe you should join this person.

387232

[Simon MacGowen]

I'm still waiting to hear how a 1.75hp SawStop (that I own) results in better or more accurate cuts than a properly tuned $800 R4512 + Delta t3 fence setup (which I used to own).

Sorry to hear that your $2500 (?) investment has been a disappointment. You should consider selling PCS and switch back to an "upgraded" Ridgid. I have never come across any SS cabinet saw owners in my circle who wanted to go back to their or any other cabinet saws, let alone a Ridgid.

Simon

[Roger Marty]

Sorry to hear that your $2500 (?) investment has been a disappointment. You should consider selling PCS and switch back to an "upgraded" Ridgid. I have never come across any SS cabinet saw owners in my circle who wanted to go back to their or any other cabinet saws, let alone a Ridgid.

Simon

I'm very happy with my SawStop. I bought it for safety and I love the feeling of safety it gives me. Everything feels more robust and nicer. Just like my fancy sedan with leather seating and 8 airbags. The SawStop doesn't make me a better woodworker.