Sawstop Brake & Freud Blade Issues, Tips?

[Patrick Irish]

I spent about 30 minutes trying to get my Sawstop to recognize a 24 tooth Freud rip blade with no luck.

Previous blade is an Everlast combo that’s just shy of 10” and works and brake alignment is great. The Freud industrial rip blade is about 9 7/8. I cannot for the life of me adjust the brake to get the Saw to turn on. Any tips?

How long between adjusting the brake should I wait to flip the switch to go into selftest?

Do I need to actually unplug the saw between brake adjustments?

I made a reference with the 10” Everlast and backed it out to cause a code to throw then quickly turned it off and turned it back and the green light came on and was set. So I don’t think I need to wait too long or unplug it. I’m hoping at least as it’s behind my dryer and a pain to unplug.

I tried a combo Freud blade and a smaller Everlast and couldn’t get them to adjusted correctly to work either.

Does the dust door by the riving knife need to be closed? There’s not switch there.

My Sawstop is a cb51230 from 2006 I think.

I’m very close to buying a popular tools rip blade if this Freud blade will be a pain every time I want to use it.

[Johnny Barr]

I use the Freud Fusion P410 with no problems on a Sawstop PCS. I haven't measured it but it appears the same size as the blade that came with the saw. You don't need to unplug the saw to test the safety mechanism but you should when changing blades. I contacted Sawstop when I bought my freud blade and they said it was fine, so I'd contact Sawstop and/or Freud. Let us know how you got on

[Peter Christensen]

I gave a new Freud blade to a buddy because it was right at the minimum diameter that I could adjust to. Found it a PIA when I went from a 10” blade to the smaller Freud, all those Allen key turns and checking the gap. Bought full diameter Forrest blades instead to go with the others I had.

[Nick Decker]

I have Woodworker II that, after sharpening, now measures about 9 7/8". Works fine on my PCS.

I think SS has made some changes to brake cartridges since your saw was made, so you may want to check to see if maybe your cartridge needs to be updated.

[Larry Frank]

I bought a cheap ratchet wrench, extension and hex socket for my PCS. After I put a new blade on, I turn the saw on and adjust until I get the green light and test it by touching the blade. Using the little hex wrench supplied is a pain.

[Rob Price]

I guess I’ve been lucky. My WWII, Freud fusion and Freud flue line rip all work just fine. I haven’t had to adjust my brake since I bought the saw years ago.

[Prashun Patel]

I use Freud 24T rip blades (several types over the years) with no issues on the Sawstop.

Dumb question: are you installing a new blade after a brake firing? If yes, then you have to lower the arbor all the way to reset the gap between the brake and the blade. You'll feel it clunk into place. Then only will the saw recognize the blade.

[Patrick Irish]

Not installing after an activation. Just swapping blades and testing all functions of this Saw.

I’m calling SS right now to find a few things;

1) does it have to be unplugged? Can I leave it on and adjust the brake waiting for the light to go green?

2) does have the door inside open effect anything?

[Frank Pratt]

There is a Facebook SawStop user's group that's run by one of their technical guys, Trent Davis. He's very good about responding to people's issues.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/sawstopusersgroup/

It's a closed group, but when I asked to join it only took a couple of hours to get accepted.

[Patrick Irish]

There is a Facebook SawStop user's group that's run by one of their technical guys, Trent Davis. He's very good about responding to people's issues.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/sawstopusersgroup/

It's a closed group, but when I asked to join it only took a couple of hours to get accepted.

Good idea, I’ll ask there.

Customer service said its just a spacing issue and keep trying. Said the riving knife might be causing the code but it works with my larger Everlast blade. The age of my brake shouldn’t be an issue either.

Ill post in the facebook group and try after work. Might give the blade away and buy a non Freud 24t Rip Blade if I can’t get it to work.

[Nick Decker]

"I’m very close to buying a popular tools rip blade..."

Not related to your issue, but I recently got a Popular Tools blade through Dynamic Saw. I was looking for an "all purpose" blade with a flat top grind. He suggested custom grinding a 40T blade by Popular Tools. Said it would work very well for ripping and fine for crosscutting but with a little more tear out, and he was right on. Including the custom grind, it came to about $85 shipped. I'm thinking I might try one of their rip blades, too.

[Rick Potter]

Mine worked OK with the Freud blade, but I got tired of adjusting the gap whenever I changed blades. I only run full 10" blades now (Infinity). and have not needed to readjust the gap since. Yes, I am lazy. I keep the Freud rip blades on my old Unisaw.

I have heard Freud makes some 10" blades now, but haven't checked that out.

[Mike Heidrick]

I own that saw. Turn it orf or turn disconnect. ,I use a nickle to space brake correctly from blade. Also make sure you are using the correct brake, confirm that with ss.

[Patrick Irish]

Correct brake and spacing.

Got it working tonight. I took the brake off and lightly sanded gunk off the surface from previous owner. Then I aligned it with a nickel but made sure a carbide tooth was near the top of pawl/brake before turning it on. Good to go.

The Freud blade sucks though in my opinion. I’ll try it with walnut. Used it once before the inside tip of each tooth is lightly chipped already.

That popular tools 24t blade I was gonna buy is .145 kerf and .101 plate thick. Sawstop says it's fine but on the thick side. I’m gonna look for a real 10” 24t or 30t rip blade now.

[Larry Frank]

I am very surprised about the comments on the Freud blade. I have several for years and no chipping of teeth, great life and good cuts.

I have never heard of a .145" kerf blade but it will take more power than thinner blades.

[Nick Decker]

I've not heard that "chipping" complaint about Freud either. I generally avoid them with SawStop because of the anti-kickback feature, but have found them to cut well.

Hadn't heard of that .145" kerf blade, must be for some special use or material, but I'm pretty sure Popular makes a "normal" kerf rip blade.

[Rick Potter]

Me too. I love my Freud blades, and have several. My favorite is the 24T Industrial ripper. Aside from ripping well, it also has a flat top tooth here and there, and leaves a flat bottom kerf which is good for inlays, quick dados, etc.

My only complaint about it is the above mentioned readjusting to use it on my SawStop because it is 250 MM, not 10 real inches. Just enough to make me readjust the SS. So I use it on my old Uni which I kept for dados, etc.

Heck, I have an old 80(?) tooth with black coating from waay back, about 25 years ago, that was on my RAS. Wy wife accidentally tried to cut a steel carpenters square with it. She got almost an inch into it before deciding those sparks shouldn't be there, and quit to call me at work and ask. She thought it was part of the fence.

The blade still worked fine and I left it on the saw for a while. Eventually resharpened it, and it is still in the blade drawer ready to go.

[Roy Turbett]

No problems with Freud 50 tooth combo or 24 tooth glue line rip. But be sure to check clearance when switching between brands. I had an expensive unintended misfire.

[mreza Salav]

Have a ICS version with several blades (some are Freud which are indeed smaller than 10"). Have to adjust between swaps but no problem with any blade so far.