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Malcolm Schweizer
05-28-2018, 4:10 PM
I made these doors to hang like barn doors. Didn’t consider the wheels would hit. Duh. Now I have to move them inboard and also shorten them and drill another hole so the hole falls where I need it to.

John K Jordan
05-28-2018, 4:44 PM
I made these doors to hang like barn doors. Didn’t consider the wheels would hit. Duh. Now I have to move them inboard and also shorten them and drill another hole so the hole falls where I need it to.
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I HATE it when I do that. I guess you can't make a gap filler piece (or two, one for each door)? Too bad the brackets can't stay there. I might be tempted to clear out a spot in my cluttered weld shop and make some offset brackets.

Hard to tell exactly - is that picture sideways (looking up towards a ceiling)?

JKJ

Lee Schierer
05-28-2018, 4:52 PM
It doesn't look like your rails are going to let you move them far enough to stay on the rails with that lower bolt. I would suggest making two trim pieces and leave the brakets where they are. Or make one wider piece that will cover the gap and over lap the other door slightly, sort of like a weather seal.

Malcolm Schweizer
05-28-2018, 5:46 PM
I’m sleeping on it. I may make an overlapping trim piece, or I will shorten the straps to fit on the top rail and drill new holes for the bolts.

The image is turned sideways. This is the top of the door.

Bruce Page
05-28-2018, 6:00 PM
I would modify & move the hardware. A gap filler will be an oops filler. JMO

Nick Decker
05-28-2018, 6:15 PM
Don't feel bad. This design is old enough that I'm certain you are not the first to slap his forehead.

:)

keith micinski
05-28-2018, 7:43 PM
Another option, and I think it might actually look interesting is to take the brackets and angle them back towards the door at a 22.5 or so. You'll have to raise them a little bit which will help with that bottom bolt being to close to the bottom of the style.

keith micinski
05-28-2018, 7:48 PM
Also adding a 3/4 board to each end of the door or whatever thickness it needs to be to make the difference up could also look interesting if you did it in black to match the hardware giving the door a framed look and intentional. I have found that using a contrasting piece in that type of situation and calling it out is actaully the best way to hide it as a mistake. For that matter I think the best solution but probably not cost efficient would be to get a piece of black iron instead of wood painted black and thst would look amazing in my opinion. It would give the door a more industrial fire door look instead of a barn door look but I like that better anyway.

Eric Schmid
05-28-2018, 9:12 PM
You’re not alone. I seem to get penalized whenever I use narrow stiles. I prefer the look of narrow stiles on some doors, but the hardware rarely works.

Dan Friedrichs
05-28-2018, 9:34 PM
Use much smaller diameter wheels? :)

What about a triangle-shaped bracket to set the wheel further in? Couple pieces of flat steel may be easier than any wood work...

Robert Cherry
05-28-2018, 10:39 PM
You could leave the hardware as-is- make a trim piece that attaches to one door and is wide enough to cover the gap and slightly overlap the other door. Since this increases privacy, you can now charge extra!

Malcolm Schweizer
05-29-2018, 3:07 AM
This is in my shop, which has 10' ceilings, and the doors are 9' tall. I made them to complement the entry doors, which are tall, narrow double doors. (That's how my whole house is made- double doors instead of single. I suppose because they are so huge.) This is a closet door. I bought the hardware and built the doors without ever thinking about the wheel needing to be fully inboard. The instructions were two pages in multiple languages printed in mini mouse font size. To my defense, the instructions said nothing about this one important detail. I laughed aloud at myself when I went to close the doors. Huge forehead slap.

I am going to shorten the hardware to better fit the rail and move them inboard. I have a dowel maker and can make a dowel any size to plug the holes. I am still laughing at the whole thing. I was so careful, measuring everything with a laser and using a laser level to get the bar just right. Haha. All that technology means nothing if you miss the glaring flaw, staring at you- mocking you. :-) It was a humbling lesson.

Malcolm Schweizer
05-29-2018, 3:12 AM
Side note: I also dropped my Veritas plow plane and chipped the handle during this project. I made this high-pitched squeal as it fell to the floor; a sound much like a 12 year old girl would make when she saw a mouse. My wife came running to see if I was ok. I have zero pride. You can make fun of me- I can take it.

Lee Schierer
05-29-2018, 11:25 AM
Before you cut the brackets, be sure they won't want to wiggle over time with only one bolt holding them in place.

Mike Manning
05-29-2018, 11:36 AM
You could put a quarter circle piece of trim in every corner rather than cutting your bracket shorter. Might even look pretty classy. It really sucks when I forget obvious stuff like this. Love the barn doors. Good luck!

Malcolm Schweizer
05-29-2018, 2:09 PM
Before you cut the brackets, be sure they won't want to wiggle over time with only one bolt holding them in place.

I would shorten it and then drill another hole above that existing bottom hole. The existing bottom hole would be cut off. There would still be two holes.

Bill Adamsen
05-29-2018, 2:14 PM
I might be tempted to clear out a spot in my cluttered weld shop and make some offset brackets. - JKJ
That's what I was thinking.

Jim Becker
05-29-2018, 3:09 PM
https://rgf05a.sn.files.1drv.com/y4mcUM6NGEMkXynIOvchfSUMjaNj8tlwVdxS0zMBdVa1Idoy6G e2l95pXX6QQ0RujfUFTgERwDEQk-AvaviZGGKyUYgx11ZDWAcYqoi2dp4svdR9beDseZ5q73_VT22L YSDep1_WPVGVbC0fNoUr1g8hza4QR2T8FvCc95fsOrQ9hEgcs1 vHdyYDOVXP3MnTFumN-MJGXJHKBqYLkm6l6rryw?width=314&height=425&cropmode=none

Warren Lake
05-29-2018, 3:49 PM
My sister is 59, she makes that noise if she sees a mouse as well only she would be standing on a table a chair at the same time

James Combs
05-29-2018, 4:10 PM
I HATE it when I do that...)?
JKJ

+1 on John's comment, and sometimes I wish there were stronger words for it....

Paul McGaha
05-31-2018, 8:05 AM
Hi Malcolm,

I know the feeling. I guess we probably all do.

I'm glad this thread is about a mistake instead of an injury, which is what I was expecting from the title.

PHM

Malcolm Schweizer
06-02-2018, 7:27 PM
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I cut the straps short and drilled a new bottom hole. Worked well.

Jim Becker
06-02-2018, 8:21 PM
Those doors look great!

Malcolm Schweizer
06-03-2018, 4:01 AM
Those doors look great!

Thanks! They are 9' tall. There was no off the shelf option; I had to build them. The original idea was not a closet- I was going to build hanging panels with slatwall on them and the wheels would allow one panel to slide in front of the other panel- sort of a stacking storage. As you may remember, I did put up slat wall, but decided to build a closet and use these rollers for the doors. It's perfect because the closet fits in a spot where there were few options to put anything due to an odd indentation in the wall to cover plumbing.

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Paul Girouard
06-03-2018, 11:14 AM
Things happen!

Like this :
Can you raise the counter top up so the W/D fit under the countertop and move the appliances to the opposite corner of the laundry room ??


Why sure we can, no problem!

387054


Er , well sort of!

At normal 36” counter top height the drawer front would pass under the door handle , at 39” not so much!

Malcolm Schweizer
06-03-2018, 3:13 PM
Things happen!

Like this :
Can you raise the counter top up so the W/D fit under the countertop and move the appliances to the opposite corner of the laundry room ??


Why sure we can, no problem!

387054


Er , well sort of!

At normal 36” counter top height the drawer front would pass under the door handle , at 39” not so much!

welcome to the club!

Jim Becker
06-03-2018, 3:34 PM
Things happen!

Like this :
Can you raise the counter top up so the W/D fit under the countertop and move the appliances to the opposite corner of the laundry room ??


Why sure we can, no problem!

387054


Er , well sort of!

At normal 36” counter top height the drawer front would pass under the door handle , at 39” not so much!THat's a very creative security lock for that door... :) :D

Malcolm Schweizer
06-03-2018, 5:09 PM
THat's a very creative security lock for that door... :) :D

If you shut the door, and the drawer somehow moves open, you are pretty much done with that room for a while.

Paul Girouard
06-03-2018, 5:24 PM
THat's a very creative security lock for that door... :) :D



I could point the laundry room could serve as a panic room ! Thanks for the positive snip your comment lead me to!! LOL.

Jim Becker
06-03-2018, 5:46 PM
I could point the laundry room could serve as a panic room ! Thanks for the positive snip your comment lead me to!! LOL.
Sometimes looking at the bright side of our mental, um...creativity...is the best way to go. :D

Paul Girouard
06-05-2018, 11:03 PM
Some times you just need to start over , as HARD as that is for me to swallow!

P.Lam guy comes on Friday to lay the new top.

The good news is we have a NICE out-feed table for the new company shop table saw!

We removed the top , moved the old cabinet off the walls 5” from the back wall , 4” from the wall with the doorway.

So now you can open the drawer IF the door is open OR closed.

It still will block the door if for some reason the drawer rolled open with the door to the room closed, unlikely.

And it still will make a decent panic room feature , not quite as good as the door will open so the drawer could be defeated easier as the prep would have more “leverage” as the door would throw further before the drawer blocked it.




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