13 Amp or 15 Amp Circular saw

[Marshall Harrison]

Looking to get a new circular saw. I don't really need saw recommendations but rather some power info.

I'm seeing lots of saws in both 13Amp and 15Amp models. My main usage will be for cutting 3/4" plywood and thinner sheet goods. So in a corded saw is there much difference for my usage between 13 and 15 amp saws?

[Aaron Rosenthal]

I use all types of circ. Saws, and I've settled on my favourite brand.
Power, though, might not be your issue.
Either size will work fine, depending on your blade for smoothness of cut needs, and density of material.
Take it off the shelf and hold it in your hand. See how it feels. Rent one if you want and see how it works.
Dont discount the bigger battery powered units. I used my "big" construction style unit for years but today, not needing to work with it all day, I reach for the battery powered unit. So much easier and faster, more than enough power.

[Rich Engelhardt]

13 amp runs on nice and clean on a 14 ga extension cord.

15 gets real iffy.

FWIW - after using my Makita cordless track saw, I'm a real fan of cordless circular saws. I still can't believe how nice it is not to have a cord get in the way.

[Marshall Harrison]

Yeah, cordless sounds nice. If I do that it will be Ryobi so that I can stick with my existing battery system.

Today is my birthday and I got up to find a Kreg Rip-Cut and a Kreg Accu-Cut as a gift from my son. My only circular saws are a 35+ year old Craftsman that belonged to my Dad and a 4.5" Ryobi cordless one. One is too small and I don't want to use the older one and risk burning it oui. It has sentimental value.

Got a need to cut lots of sheet goods as soon as I can afford the plywood.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

I've never thought about it, but I guess all of mine are 15 amp. I'd be inclined to just buy the saw you want, and not worry about it. Are the Kreg guides compatible with worm drive saws?

[Jim Becker]

Cutting typical sheet goods with a circular saw, with or without a track, isn't an incredible power-hungry operation, so I agree with the sentiment to buy the saw that you're most comfortable with. Honestly, selecting the best blade for the job is more important than the color and power of the saw for cutting sheet goods.

That said, if you are going to make this investment, I suggest you seriously consider something that CAN run on a track for this kind of work. You'll get a lot of value from that over time, IMHO, especially because 3/4" sheet stock, for example, can be heavy to life and if you can process it on the floor on some 2x boards or foam insulation panels, you will not have to do as much lifting. The track-guided saws also tend to offer better attention to reducing chipping on veneered products because of how the saw blade runs down a supportive edge.

[Marshall Harrison]

Cutting typical sheet goods with a circular saw, with or without a track, isn't an incredible power-hungry operation, so I agree with the sentiment to buy the saw that you're most comfortable with. Honestly, selecting the best blade for the job is more important than the color and power of the saw for cutting sheet goods.

That said, if you are going to make this investment, I suggest you seriously consider something that CAN run on a track for this kind of work. You'll get a lot of value from that over time, IMHO, especially because 3/4" sheet stock, for example, can be heavy to life and if you can process it on the floor on some 2x boards or foam insulation panels, you will not have to do as much lifting. The track-guided saws also tend to offer better attention to reducing chipping on veneered products because of how the saw blade runs down a supportive edge.

Thanks Jim.

That's where the Accu-Cut and the Rip-Cut come into play.

[Bill Dufour]

Older homes will have 15 amp outlets that 15 amp saws could blow fuses if it binds. This may not be an issue if all your work is on your own property.
Bill D

[Mike Cutler]

You won't see the difference between those two values. I suspect some "Madison Avenue License" is coming into play. A dull blade versus a new blade will have a more dramatic "feel effect".
My Makita is close to thirty years old, and until you asked this question, I never even looked. It's 13 amps, I just looked. It's seen it's share of plywood through the years and never had any trouble.
As for blades, I've had really good luck with the Freud Diablo's from Home Depot and Amazon. They don't break the bank, and they actually leave a nice clean cut.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi, motor current isn't an indicator of anything useful.

Poor quality motors (low PF, low efficiency) can draw higher current and do less work.

Buy the better saw and ignore the current rating................Regards, Rod,

[Jim Dwight]

My Milwaukee is 15 amp, if I remember right, and my track saw (DeWalt) is 13A. The track saw is not at all underpowered. I've cut a 3 degree bevel on a 1 3/4 thick exterior door with it. I used the stock 48 tooth blade. The Milwaukee would have done it too, of course, but it's nice to line up the track and know exactly where the cut will be. It's also nice to get a cut so clean a few swipes of sandpaper and you are done with it.

I think the 13A will be adequate but that new 7.25 inch Ryobi cordless looks really nice. I'm sure it is less powerful but my little Ryobi cuts dimensional lumber and plywood fine with a fresh battery.

[Alex Zeller]

I think 13 amp tools are designed to run without problems on 15 amp circuits. I don't think you'll notice a difference unless you're the type of guy who sees smoke coming off your blade as it binds and thinks that means to push harder.

[Curt Harms]

I'm not familiar with the Kreg products so can't comment there. I'd look for a way to be able to square the base to the blade and I've read that cast bases are preferred over stamped bases. I'm sure Rod has it right re amp draw, better quality motors do more work with less amps.

[Dean Moldenhauer]

Happy belated birthday, by the way!!

[Marshall Harrison]

Happy belated birthday, by the way!!

Thanks....

[Edwin Santos]

Whenever I have heard someone complaining about an underpowered circular saw, it is usually the wrong type of blade for the job at hand that is the culprit. For example, using a high tooth count finishing blade to rip hardwood. I feel certain kinds of plywood, like Baltic Birch, are denser than other types of sheet goods, and will cause a fine finishing blade to labor.

[Rick Alexander]

I've got both - the Makita is a 8 1/4 inch 15 amp that I use with the track for straight lining rough lumber and breaking down ply. I believe I need the amperage for that as it's pretty taxing to cut 1 1/8 inch oak with the grain. The Dewalt 13 amp is the main job site saw - plenty of power for whatever I've tried to do with it. The weight difference is pretty noticeable so keep that in mind if it's the same between your two choices. If I didn't cut rough lumber a smaller 13 amp Makita would be my choice. Just like the feel for Makita - just a subjective thing. I'm leaning toward the Makita brushless battery job next. Had hands on one at the local Makita factory and that thing cuts SWEET and is pretty light.