1st coat for clear lacquer on white wood?

[Brian Kent]

I have some nice blanks for Curley Soft Maple chalices. The (almost) finished one has a coat or two of Wood Turners Finish, followed by several coats of water-based poly.

Here is my question:
I want to try rattle-can lacquer on the next one.
What should I use as a first coat?
1. WTF
2. Just start spraying the pre-catalyzed lacquer
3. ????

Normally I start with De-waxed Shellac, but that adds more amber tone than I want this time.

Thank you for your ideas, advice, and experience.

[Brian Kent]

And same question with transtint dye. I have not used dye for a couple of years and I do not remember if the first coat should be just to fill pores - without dye - or should I use dye first, after sanding to 400 or so?

[Gary Baler]

Brian, I use about 98% deft gloss lacquer. I used to use lacquer sanding sealer first, but now I just use a fairly generous ... don't do crazy amount... with my lathe spinning at about 200 rpms. Then reduce the speed to my slowest speed 48rpm ... to dry. Anything over 48 is too fast. Prefer about 20rpm, but my lathe doesn't go that slow. Then, wet sand at 600 grit between each coat ... usually 4-5 coats. Then a finish coat is Renaissaance wax rubbed in lightly with steel wool ... then buffed with blue shop towels or cotton tshirt (cut in 4" squares). You will get a deep finish that is not plastic looking because the Ren-wax softens the gloss. Let me know how you like it. by pm.

[Brian Kent]

Gary, do you spray or brush or wipe on?

[Bob Bergstrom]

Pre-cat lacquer, while protective, will yellow with time but water white lacquer will stay clear. To minimize yellowing use water white for the first couple coats then pre-cat over that. Brushing lacquer has a retarder in it, so by diluting it, it will pentrate into the wood. Rattle can lacquer dries quickly and becomes more of a surface film. Cat-varnish has replaced cat-lacquer for more water resistance. I have not seen it in a rattle can.

[Gary Baler]

Brian, I use spray. I have never been satisfied using a water based lacquer ... I don't think it is lacquer at all.

[Brad Barnhart]

I use bulls eye lacquer, in a rattle can for most of my projects & have had excellent results with it. No yellowing on light colored woods. I use deft lacquer on walnut & cherry & have extremely good results. The deft really pulls out the wood grain, & is a good sealer. I wet sand walnut on occasion, then use Watco clear coat in the rattle can.

[Brian Kent]

Here is the finish comparison - from the same piece of white curly maple.

On the left is clear lacquer only. Spray can Rustoleum brand. I'll still do some very fine sanding and Beal Buffing, but this shows the color and gloss. About 6 -8 coats.

On the right is a sealer coat of WTF, followed by General Finishes Gloss water-based Poly. About 8 coats.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

I use Wipe on Poly almost exclusively. I'm another that does not care for any water based finish.

On a different topic, how do you guys who apply finish on the lathe, finish the bottom? I would think you could not make it "match" the rest of the piece. TIA

[Brian Kent]

On a different topic, how do you guys who apply finish on the lathe, finish the bottom? I would think you could not make it "match" the rest of the piece. TIA

After parting the base, I bring it over to the belt sander and sand it on 80, 120, and 220 grit. Then I repeat whatever process I used on the rest, usually shellac to seal, sign when dry, and after the ink is dry, a coat of fixative so the ink does not spread, and finally a coat or 2 of wipe-on Poly. It is compatible if not identical to the rest of the piece.

[Peter Blair]

I love Mohawk brand Pre cat Lacquer and use their pre-cat sanding sealer first. I usually give it one coat sand to 400 and apply another coat then on to the finishing lacquer. I don't sand too fine because i think following coats attach better to a surface with a little 'tooth'.