How Would You Make This Cut With a Table Saw?

[Clay Anderson]

On a 2x4 piece of lumber.

I have a 10" table saw with an incra miter gauge that goes up pretty steep but not as acute as this cut requires...
I'm tying my brain in knots trying to figure this out.

385988

https://imgur.com/MWaOcPo

[Dave Richards]

Clamp a square block of wood to the fence on the miter gauge and clamp the stock to the block. Or don't use the miter gauge and instead make yourself a quick tapering sled that'll ride against the rip fence.

[Neil Gaskin]

I would use a panel fence jig similar to the below link. Use a sacrificial stop for both support and to reduce tear out.

http://www.startwoodworking.com/plans/build-simple-tenoning-jig-tablesaw

[Rick Potter]

It goes upright, on end. Google tapering sled as Dave advised, or 'making raised panels on a table saw'. It will give you the general idea. Make sure the piece is CLAMPED solidly to the sled.

[Andrew Seemann]

If you have a tenoning jig with enough clearance, you can use that to hold the board upright and then cut it with the saw blade angled.

Free hand on the bandsaw and a quick clean up with a plane would also work.

[Charles Lent]

All good suggestions. I use my tenon jig when I need to make this type of cut if the cut will be short, and use a high sliding fence that rides along my table saw fence with the work clamped to it when the cut will be long, as in raised panels. In either case, a sacrificial backer can be used to prevent end of cut tear out.

Charley

[glenn bradley]

+! on upright with a tenon jig, either commercial or shop made if you don't have a bandsaw.

[Pat Barry]

How long is the 2x4? If it is short, as pictured, I would just use my fence set at the correct distance. Position the fence, tilt the blade away, and stand up the 2x4. Push it through using another 2x4 laying down on the table along the fence. Seems pretty easy. If it is a long 2x4 I'd cut it by hand saw.

[Jim Becker]

A tapered cut like this can be done in a number of ways including those mentioned. Personally...I'd make a rough cut on the bandsaw and then use a hand plane to complete the task. Safer in many respects...and if the board is long, it's not something you can do vertically on the table saw with a tenon jig anyway.

[Ben Rivel]

OP you dont have or have access to a bandsaw?

[michael langman]

Using some trigonometry figure the length of the side opposite over the length of the 2x4 to give you the angle you need. Use double sided tape to put a piece of wood to the side opposite the angle. Tjhen rip it with the fence on the tablesaw.

[Ben Rivel]

Heck another approach that might be possible is using a miter gauge on an edge sander or belt sander and just "grinding" that angle off and sanding it smooth afterwards. I really dont think the table saw is the best or safest way to get this cut made...

[Carlos Alvarez]

I too would head to the bandsaw for the cut then the edge sander to smooth it.

[Clay Anderson]

Thanks for the replies folks. Unfortunately I do not have access to a bandsaw or edge sander, but I will definitely look into a tapering sled/panel/tenon jig.

Cutting the board standing on end is also an interesting approach as the depth of cut need only be two inches or so at that angle. Though I would have ten chances to do so, I am quite attached to my fingers and I don't imagine my oafish, ham-fisted finesse would further me in my keeping them while attempting this.

[lowell holmes]

You could consider making the cut with a handsaw. I have a Disston D12 10tpi that would make that cut in a heartbeat.
It's ok to brag isn't it.:)

[Prashun Patel]

How many of these do you have to do? If only a couple I would do it with a handsaw and clean up with a handplane.

[Jim Becker]

Cutting the board standing on end is also an interesting approach as the depth of cut need only be two inches or so at that angle. Though I would have ten chances to do so, I am quite attached to my fingers and I don't imagine my oafish, ham-fisted finesse would further me in my keeping them while attempting this.

Cutting this with the board standing on end more or less requires a tenoning jig or similar...it's not a safe operation for free-hand work along the fence, IMHO.

[lowell holmes]

How many of these do you have to do? If only a couple I would do it with a handsaw and clean up with a handplane.

I agree, a handsaw is the way to do it.

[Brian Holcombe]

I’d probably just chop the waste with a chisel then pare to the line.

[John Gulick]

If you have a tenoning jig with enough clearance, you can use that to hold the board upright and then cut it with the saw blade angled.

Free hand on the bandsaw and a quick clean up with a plane would also work.

+1, we would use this method

[Tim W Jackson]

Amazing. I had to make a similar cut to this yesterday. I am trying to mount an eye hook to the garage to anchor a string of lights. The wood clapboard on the garage has an agle to it and I needed to mount a 2x4 to it. I though about using my jointer...dangerous. Tablesaw....very dangerous. Rasp.....tedious. Then I realized this is perfect for my bandsaw. Done in 30 seconds. Near perfect.

[Phillip Gregory]

On a 2x4 piece of lumber.

I have a 10" table saw with an incra miter gauge that goes up pretty steep but not as acute as this cut requires...
I'm tying my brain in knots trying to figure this out.

385988

https://imgur.com/MWaOcPo



I doubt you're going to be able to do that well on a 10" table saw as a 2x4 up on edge is about 3 1/2" tall and most 10" table saws can only cut a fuzz over 3". It would be a "do a pass and then flip it over" scenario which is far from ideal.

There are many other ways to do this:

1. Use an edge sander with an angle jig and simply grind the red area off of the board. This is the preferred way to do this as it is simple, safe, and you can sneak up on the angle/cut.

2. Use a decent sized disk sander with an angle jig and simply grind the red area off of the board. This is how I would do this operation as I do not have an edge sander yet, but my disc sander is big enough to grind that piece off of a 2x4. The downside of a disc sander vs. an edge sander is that the disc sander will leave a rougher surface with circular scratches vs. linear scratches.

3. Use a bandsaw with an angle jig and cut the angled piece off of of the board. Literally any bandsaw will be enough to make this cut.

4. Put a wedge underneath the far side of the board and run it through a jointer to put the taper on the red area of the board.

You would need at least a 12" cabinet saw to decently make this cut, and that would be more difficult than all but method #4 listed above.

[Ted Phillips]

Personally, I would just mark out the lines and knife them in - then use a jack plane to trim it down to the lines. Easy Peasy.