Digital Caliper Preferences

[Bill Adamsen]

I searched old posts figuring there would be loads of discussion on this topic, and was surprised that I couldn't find any.

My Wixey digital calipers just gave me notice that they're at end of life. The battery compartment won't open - the thin plastic lip used to open it sheared off – so I can't open to replace the battery. I wasn't entirely surprised ... the plastic knurled adjuster bracket broke in the first month of ownership which gave some indication of the "achilles heel" of this tool. Otherwise I would have to say the calipers have worked well for me for several years. They dramatically improved my workflow with dialing in the planer and sander so that all thicknesses aligned with the calipers. But now it is time to invest in a better pair.

I'd love something with a stainless steel head (readout enclosure) that is more robust than the plastic Wixey. Features I like are the decimal/fraction indicator and of course the metric/imperial is a basic need. Six inches seems to meet my needs. Mostly woodworking but I do some metalworking so the hardened tips are great for scribing. Any preferences out there?

[Dave Richards]

I've not seen one with a stainless steel case for the readout head. I've got one from iGaging that I bought from chipsfly.com. it's very good and has a larger display than many of the alternatives.

[Carl Kona]

Bill I do not have the Wixey pair (but plenty of other of their products - love the TS digital scale). However I do have my dad's analog calipers and my off brand digital pair and have been using the analog more often, as they are quicker (no buttons). When I do use my digital pair it is a double edge sword having accuracy to 128th of an inch, when you read 71/128th. I have not seen any digital calipers made with anything but plastic heads (even high end units had plastic).

[Jake dillon]

I've been using the iGaging EZ Cal model and it's been great...Under $30.

[Brian Behrens]

I bought a digital caliper from Harbor Freight about 10 years ago for about $10. It still works, and reads dead on against known standards. I would like to switch to a high quality dial cailper just to eliminate the electronics, since I use it for reloading also, but haven't found the need to upgrade yet. Maybe I got lucky, but I am impressed that it is still dead on after 10 years.

[Stan Calow]

I have a habit of misplacing and/or breaking them, so reluctant to spend a lot. I'm satisfied with the one I got at Aldi's even though no fractional readout. I think it was about $10 and is metal.

[John K Jordan]

I'd love something with a stainless steel head (readout enclosure) that is more robust than the plastic Wixey. Features I like are the decimal/fraction indicator and of course the metric/imperial is a basic need. Six inches seems to meet my needs. Mostly woodworking but I do some metalworking so the hardened tips are great for scribing. Any preferences out there?

I prefer Starrett and Mitutoyo myself but I have use some others too.

What's your budget?

JKJ

[Bill Adamsen]

I prefer Starrett and Mitutoyo myself ... What's your budget?

Yikes! I'm blanching at the price of the higher end Starrett and Mitutoyo models.
It does appear that all have a plastic head ... disappointing.

[Lisa Starr]

I use a pair of "rejected" Mitutoyo from my machine shop. They won't repeat accurately enough to use for production close tolerance machining, but since they're "only" a .001" off, I figure they're good enough for wood. If I'm dialing in a machine, I bring good tools home from work that are dead on.

[Jim Becker]

What you're going to use it for will dictate what will best work. For general woodworking type needs, the less expensive digital calipers work just fine. For more consistent precision that some folks might want/need for certain kinds of CNC work, then a bigger investment is a good idea. I personally have an inexpensive one from Woodcraft right now and it's been fine for what I've used it for. But I might pony up for a better one in the future if I start to also work with aluminum and brass on the CNC because at that point thousandths are a bit more important than they are with general lumber thickness. :)

[Steve Demuth]

I prefer Starrett and Mitutoyo myself but I have use some others too.

What's your budget?

JKJ

I'd go one further and say that, even though I know Bill is looking for advice on a digital caliper, that having used both, I would strongly recommend an analog dial caliper as faster and more reliable than anything that requires a battery. The Starrett 1202F-6 is a gem in the dial caliper for woodworkers space. It reads in 64ths, to an easily repeatable precision of 1/128". I've got two (because I damaged the first one, I thought beyond simple repair, so bought a second and then was able to repair the first), and find them among the most used measuring tools in my shop.

But yes, they are a bit pricey.

[Peter Christensen]

I used a number of types and brands of callipers in over two dozen years inspecting machined parts for aerospace. My choice is a Mitutoyo over all others. One reason is they use the SR44 /357 size button batteries that are cheap and easy to find plus they will last for at least a year of everyday use. Starrett used the coin batteries that are costly and don't seem to last as long. The Mits also have a better fit and finish unless you are comparing to a Tesa (Swiss made?). Steve's suggestion of a dial indicator is also good and I like them too. The actual vernier type are the most reliable because there is nothing to go out of adjustment but having young eyes goes a long way to reading them. Once they get in the bi and trifocal range verniers are a pain to read. If you decide to go for inexpensive imports it is a bit of a crapshoot as to how good they are. I would still look for ones that use the button battery over the coin batteries if you go that route.

[Matt Day]

I bought a digital caliper from Harbor Freight about 10 years ago for about $10. It still works, and reads dead on against known standards. I would like to switch to a high quality dial cailper just to eliminate the electronics, since I use it for reloading also, but haven't found the need to upgrade yet. Maybe I got lucky, but I am impressed that it is still dead on after 10 years.

Same here.

[John TenEyck]

Yep, the HF digital calipers I have work fine, every time. But I only use them for measuring metal. For normal woodworking I use a set of analog calipers as Steve mentioned above. I prefer seeing if I'm 2 or 3 tick marks away from target rather than an exact number. And when I get to target it doesn't matter if it's not to the nearest 0.001". Wood working ain't that precise.

John

[Osvaldo Cristo]

My limited experience ranks digital calibers first of all for Mitutoyo, followed by Starrett and iGauging.

My personal one is from Starrett.

I really value precision, usability, stability and affordability...

[Cary Falk]

I have several from Harbor Freight. They seem to be accurate according to my Woodpecker gauge blocks. I don't cry when I drop them.

[John K Jordan]

I'd go one further and say that, even though I know Bill is looking for advice on a digital caliper, that having used both, I would strongly recommend an analog dial caliper as faster and more reliable than anything that requires a battery. The Starrett 1202F-6 is a gem in the dial caliper for woodworkers space. It reads in 64ths, to an easily repeatable precision of 1/128". I've got two (because I damaged the first one, I thought beyond simple repair, so bought a second and then was able to repair the first), and find them among the most used measuring tools in my shop.

But yes, they are a bit pricey.

My favorite analog caliper for general shop use is a fairly cheap one, marked in fractions of an inch but also with hundredths like the Starrett. I use it so much I got a second one in case I damaged or lost it.

385859
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FRGF1Q

I've had my eye on the similar Starrett but have not yet saved enough pennies.

JKJ

[John K Jordan]

I have several from Harbor Freight. They seem to be accurate according to my Woodpecker gauge blocks. I don't cry when I drop them.

Zounds, drop a digital (or analog) caliper??? Ah, I've just remembered why I don't loan tools. :)

I don't think I've ever dropped one in years of use. I do keep those I use the most in a shallow, padded drawer just a few inches below the workbench, and they go back in the drawer after each use.

JKJ

[James Biddle]

Also, find one that has an Auto Off feature...nothing more frustrating than accidentally turning it on while reaching for something next to it and seeing the faint glow of a fading readout a week later.

[Bob Vaughan]

Dial calipers have a lot going for them but not in a woodworking environment. They work with a tiny gear rack and pinion. Errant chips or dust in the gear rack can cause movement problems.

[Rich Engelhardt]

I really like this one (https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-digital-caliper-with-sae-and-metric-fractional-readings-63731.html) from Harbor Freight.

It's plenty accurate enough for woodworking & machine setup.

I cross check it against the pair of these (https://www.harborfreight.com/6-in-composite-digital-caliper-63137.html) I have, also from Harbor Freight, if the measurement is critical - such as machine setup and/or at the reloading bench.

I do remove the batteries from them when not in use. I believe the better ones don't require this, but, the HF ones eat batteries even when off.

[Warren Lake]

Mitotoyo digital.

-35 years so far, dropped 20 times,
-lost several times, left on 100s of times
-didnt eat batteries when you find it a few days later it simply does not use much battery, turned on tons of time in my belt same thing they simply dont use batteries compared to my thirsty other tools from name stores we all know, in fact ive returned two and have three of one that eats batteries so much I hardly use it, frustrating, digital angle finder,
-sawdust so what, from time to time so what, so much it might become sticky, move it back and forth several times and its prefect again.

Looks like hell works perfect. bought a Lee as a back up never used and doesnt have a wheel, crappy, bought a second with a wheel still not like the Mititoyo only as a back up and it has inch fractions still havent used it


I average three years to a battery. it was pristine for the first year then its into the real world,

[Joe Spear]

I bought a digital caliper from Harbor Freight about 10 years ago for about $10. It still works, and reads dead on against known standards. I would like to switch to a high quality dial cailper just to eliminate the electronics, since I use it for reloading also, but haven't found the need to upgrade yet. Maybe I got lucky, but I am impressed that it is still dead on after 10 years.

I have two of that age from Harbor Freight, a 6" and a 12". They are as good as Brian says.

[Steve Demuth]

My favorite analog caliper for general shop use is a fairly cheap one, marked in fractions of an inch but also with hundredths like the Starrett. I use it so much I got a second one in case I damaged or lost it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FRGF1Q

I've had my eye on the similar Starrett but have not yet saved enough pennies.

JKJ

John -

I looked at the iGaging one when I bought my second. But I've got a square from them that I bought in a fit of "Starrett's too pricey" some years ago, and while it works and is accurate, it's fit and finish left me unhappy every time I used it until I spent a couple of hours chasing threads and polishing machine marks in the groove and follower.. The Starrett would have been cheaper, and I don't reckon I could fettle a dial caliper with comparable issues. So Starrett won.

[Steve Demuth]

I suppose, although a bit of Renaissance Wax on the works and care to not leave them laying about when sanding rather keeps that from being much of an issue. The one time it was for me, cleaning was ver simple and fast.

[Bill Dufour]

I have a dial caliper with two needles one for Metric one for English. Make sit easy to switch as needed.
Bill D.

[John K Jordan]

I suppose, although a bit of Renaissance Wax on the works and care to not leave them laying about when sanding rather keeps that from being much of an issue. The one time it was for me, cleaning was ver simple and fast.

No issues here, but I suspect it depends on how one works. As mentioned, I get mine out of the drawer, use them, then put them back and close the drawer. The drawer is behind me when at the lathe, and the workbench is mostly for planning and assembly rather than making chips. And most of the dust in the shop goes into the dust collector, perhaps that helps.

[Paul Wunder]

I use mine for woodworking. Bought it on Amazon 6 years ago for about $13. No less accurate than my Starrett

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002JFMIO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Lee Schierer]

I bought a digital caliper from Harbor Freight about 10 years ago for about $10. It still works, and reads dead on against known standards. I would like to switch to a high quality dial cailper just to eliminate the electronics, since I use it for reloading also, but haven't found the need to upgrade yet. Maybe I got lucky, but I am impressed that it is still dead on after 10 years.

I have one from Harbor Freight as well and it is accurate enough for any woodworking task. The price is right and the readings are repeatable. Batteries are a common tyoe so replacement is pretty cheap.

[Nick Decker]

I use mine for woodworking. Bought it on Amazon 6 years ago for about $13. No less accurate than my Starrett

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002JFMIO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Different strokes, I guess. My Amazon account reminds me that I purchased that item in 2015. I remember that it had a habit of turning itself on while I wasn't using it, meaning that when I reached for it, it was dead. Threw it in the trash.

[glenn bradley]

Just a caution. I have 2 or 3 somewhere. I just found the dial versions in imperial to be more usable in my shop. I turned one into a digital depth/height gauge and the others are in a box in the rafters. They were something I thought I really needed, bought another one when I didn't find it very helpful thinking it was the tool, then did that again before I realized I just preferred dials. I have other DRO tools that I would not want to give up so I am not just anti-tech. That's just how it worked out for me. You may want to start cheap with Harbor Freight instead of burning up a bunch of cash for a drawer-dweller.

[Mike Null]

I bought a Mitutoyo digital about 20 years ago when I started my engraving business. It is the best instrument I have in the shop; certainly better than I need and I take good care of it. I've replaced the battery once.

[Joseph Quattro]

I have several different ones, but the Mitutoyo are by far the nicest of the lot. It’s hard to explain how nicely they are made until you actually have a chance to handle them. The way that they hold zero is truly impressive. That said, my cheaper versions work just as well and I don’t feel as guilty about knocking them off the bench.

[Andrew Seemann]

For measuring in thousands, I still use my digital Mitutoyo from my machinist days 20 odd years ago. For general woodworking, I much prefer my analog dial caliper (from Rockler or Woodcraft?) that reads in 64ths. It is my go to tool for measuring wood thickness when I need something more precise than a rule.

[Bill Dufour]

All the Mitoyo calipers on the bay from China are fakes. Good looking fakes but Mitoyo does not manufacture in China so there are no ones that fell off the truck in China. the fakes are no better then the HF ones at five times the price.
Bil lD.

[Nick Decker]

I have similar concerns about some of the Starrett stuff. Example: Their fractional dial calipers sold by Amazon clearly have "China" stamped on them. Not saying that makes them necessarily bad, just that the Starrett name doesn't give me the same confidence it once did.

[Bill Orbine]

Hasn't anybody heard of Browne & Sharpe? Ooooooohh, they're right up there with the best of them!

[John K Jordan]

Hasn't anybody heard of Browne & Sharpe? Ooooooohh, they're right up there with the best of them!

I love Browne&Sharpe tools and have a few. The last I bought is a very nice dial test indicator, every bit as good as the Starrett (and maybe better if it is true as some claim that the Starrett quality has gone down on dial indicators and dial test indicators.)

I've never tried a B&S caliper, digital or dial. Do you have one?

JKJ

[John K Jordan]

All the Mitoyo calipers on the bay from China are fakes. Good looking fakes but Mitoyo does not manufacture in China so there are no ones that fell off the truck in China. the fakes are no better then the HF ones at five times the price.
Bil lD.

If you are buying calipers marked Mitoyo instead of Mitutoyo, perhaps they are fakes, like Rollex watches. Or maybe Mitoyo makes calipers: http://www.mitoyo-net.co.jp/en/product.html

If this is simply a typo or three, then never mind. :)

JKJ

[Steve Demuth]

I have similar concerns about some of the Starrett stuff. Example: Their fractional dial calipers sold by Amazon clearly have "China" stamped on them. Not saying that makes them necessarily bad, just that the Starrett name doesn't give me the same confidence it once did.

I wouldn't be too quick to jump to the conclusion that "Made in China" automatically signals poorly made. Chinese factories are capable of turning out equipment that is as good as any European or American factory, and in some areas their expertise and R & D are world leading. There is no question that consumer-grade manufactured goods from China - where the importing / relabeling brand in the US is primarily concerned with cheap and does not insist on quality - suffer from quality control, material defects, and fit and finish issues rather routinely. But I don't see any evidence that Starrett has relaxed it's standards for their top-end items, regardless of where they are manufactured.

[Nick Decker]

I agree, Steve. My SawStop started out in Asia and I have no problems with its quality. Just wondering, I guess. To their credit, I sent them an email, via their web site, early this morning. They have already responded, saying that their fractional dial caliper is made in their China facility.

As for Brown and Sharpe, I like them but haven't found a fractional dial caliper made by them.

[Bill Orbine]

I love Browne&Sharpe tools and have a few. The last I bought is a very nice dial test indicator, every bit as good as the Starrett (and maybe better if it is true as some claim that the Starrett quality has gone down on dial indicators and dial test indicators.)

I've never tried a B&S caliper, digital or dial. Do you have one?

JKJ

I have a B&S dial caliper and some other Mike's. Nicely made and pleasing to hold!

[Brandon Thill]

I love my iGaging Absolute Origin for $40. Reads fractions, hundredths, and mm. Digital display makes it easier for me to do the math quicker in my head. And auto turnoff.

[Nick Decker]

I have that iGauging caliper, too. It is dependable and has held up well for me. The problem is how the fractions are digitally displayed. By thst, I mean that it gives me a measurement of 111/128ths of an inch, and my head explodes.

I need fractions on a dial, so I can quickly look for a meaningful neighbor.

[Steve Demuth]

I need fractions on a dial, so I can quickly look for a meaningful neighbor.

One of the reasons I prefer dial calipers to digital as well, when working in fractions. With the Starrett's I use, I can read to with 1/128 if needed (although my mental read will be 3/128 under 7/16, not 53/128, if I do - although in reality, if I need that kind of accuracy I'm probably not working wood, and thus probably working in decimal inches), but when that's not needed, instantly read 64ths, 32nds, or 16ths.

[Joseph Quattro]

I just got one of these from amazon. It’s actually very nice for the money. Cool feature is auto on when the jaws move, and it does fractions. Impressive for how cheap it was.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017KUC6XQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[Nick Decker]

Notice the fraction displayed on it in that Amazon listing. 47/128ths? Too much information.

[John K Jordan]

Notice the fraction displayed on it in that Amazon listing. 47/128ths? Too much information.

If I were king I'd decree that fractional calipers would have a user-selectable maximum denominator that could be set to, say, 32 or 64 as needed. Then in the display, show a "+" or "-" sign just after the fraction to indicate when it was a little over or under the displayed fraction. Analog dial calipers do this.

[Joseph Quattro]

I agree about fractions, but honestly I don’t use the fraction function that much, was more for the OP. The amazon ones are surprisingly robust relative to some harbor freight-like pairs I have, more like my Mitutoyo’s. Of course they still pale in comparison.

[Nick Decker]

If I were king I'd decree that fractional calipers would have a user-selectable maximum denominator that could be set to, say, 32 or 64 as needed. Then in the display, show a "+" or "-" sign just after the fraction to indicate when it was a little over or under the displayed fraction. Analog dial calipers do this.

I, therefore, dub thee King JKJ.

As an aside, in keeping with the tendency of this forum to cost me money, I picked up the Starrett fractional dial caliper. I already had one sold under the Shop Fox name. The readings given by both seem to agree absolutely.

It seems that I just prefer the feel of a quality tool in my hands.

[John K Jordan]

in keeping with the tendency of this forum to cost me money, I picked up the Starrett fractional dial caliper. I already had one sold under the Shop Fox name. The readings given by both seem to agree absolutely.
It seems that I just prefer the feel of a quality tool in my hands.

Darn you. Now you've reminded me of the 1202F-6 in my Amazon shopping cart, "saved for later". Which model did you get?

JKJ

[Derek Cohen]

I used a few of the cheapish and common digital types for some years, and purchased a Mitutoyo digital about 10 or so years ago. A world of difference. What is important to me is that the Mitutoyo will reliably return to zero, and has an automatic switch off for the battery. Battery life is greater by far compared with the cheap digital makes.

A couple of years ago I purchased a Wixey to add to the tool collection. I was attracted to the fraction features, and saw this as an aid in converting imperial fractions to millimetres. I have been pleasantly surprised that it, too, has a reliable auto zero. A nice digital caliper, and at a significatly lower price to the likes of Mitutoyo.

Incidentally, in this tool I much prefer the use of digital over analogue for speed and clarity of measurement. No doubt those who work machinist tools on a regular basis may argue otherwise.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Andrew Seemann]

Incidentally, in this tool I much prefer the use of digital over analogue for speed and clarity of measurement. No doubt those who work machinist tools on a regular basis may argue otherwise.

Regards from Perth

Derek

In my machining days I preferred the digital Mitutoyo caliper over pretty much everything. The reason was that it read in inches and thousands(or mm and hundredths of mm when I did metric). One thing I found with using dial calipers/height gauges was that it was really easy to read the wrong inch number (basically read 5.9 rather than the correct 4.9 because the 5 was the number you saw by .9).

When I was teaching engineering students to use dial calipers, I would always tell them to check their measurement with a ruler after they read the dial (which I would always do when using a dial). They all looked at me like I was an idiot, but sure enough within the first 10 minutes they would read the wrong inch number off the gauge and catch it when they checked with the ruler. (The reason they got taught how to use the cheap imported dial calipers was that I wouldn't let them near my Mitutoyo).

For fractions of an inch I prefer an analog dial, because I usually am just trying to figure out how close I am to some number of inches plus a certain number of 1/4s or 1/8s or at most 1/16s. I don't want to do math in my head; I just want to count how many 1/64s or 1/32s I am off by.

One other nice thing about the Mitutoyo and similar digitals is that you can set the zero anywhere allowing you to use it for relative measurements.

[Nick Decker]

Darn you. Now you've reminded me of the 1202F-6 in my Amazon shopping cart, "saved for later". Which model did you get?

JKJ

I got that very one.

[Steve Demuth]

Darn you. Now you've reminded me of the 1202F-6 in my Amazon shopping cart, "saved for later". Which model did you get?

JKJ

That's the one I mentioned having a pair of. One of those tools you want to use just for the pleasure of handling it.

[John K Jordan]

That's the one I mentioned having a pair of. One of those tools you want to use just for the pleasure of handling it.

That's exactly how I feel about this combination square: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KUCKDA

JKJ

[Chris Fournier]

Buy once cry once. Mitutoyo have been good for me for over 20 years, $164.00 CDN back when I bought them. This being said I really prefer dial calipers. No battery woes and plenty easy to read. I also buy the good ones here as well. Never occurred to me to buy cheap precision measuring tools.

[Steve Demuth]

That's exactly how I feel about this combination square: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KUCKDA

JKJ

Yes. I have a purpose-built holder on the wall for mine, to encourage proper bolstering after its very frequent use in my shop. They are not improved by collisions with concrete floors.

[Osvaldo Cristo]

Zounds, drop a digital (or analog) caliper??? Ah, I've just remembered why I don't loan tools. :)

I don't think I've ever dropped one in years of use. I do keep those I use the most in a shallow, padded drawer just a few inches below the workbench, and they go back in the drawer after each use.

JKJ

I am with you.

I got my first caliber on January 1980. I have used these tools for ages and always with full respect. Never I had a single fallen caliber or any other precision tool, even a simple gauge...

Additionally I am terrified when I see people using calibers as marking tool either for wood or steel!

Regards.

[BOB OLINGER]

I have two of that age from Harbor Freight, a 6" and a 12". They are as good as Brian says.

Same here - my HF is accurate enough for my work

[Warren Lake]

I kept my caliper under my pillow for the first year. Its paid for itself 20 times over, yeah my post states ive been hard on it, so what. Its still accurate. Ive used it as a marking gauge on wood 100's of times and metal whatever number of times with the blue die stuff. The worst thing that ever happened to it is it fell into a rubber maid container with some other tools, the bad was i couldnt find it for a few days then had to use the back up one I dont like. Happy day when I found it which solved the mystery.

[John K Jordan]

I kept my caliper under my pillow for the first year. Its paid for itself 20 times over, yeah my post states ive been hard on it, so what. Its still accurate. Ive used it as a marking gauge on wood 100's of times and metal whatever number of times with the blue die stuff. The worst thing that ever happened to it is it fell into a rubber maid container with some other tools, the bad was i couldnt find it for a few days then had to use the back up one I dont like. Happy day when I found it which solved the mystery.

I don't use mine to mark wood (usually doesn't need to be very precise, especially on the lathe), but I do scratch marks in Dykem Blue on metal for machining. Most often it's on the metal lathe with a hand-held or for the mill on a granite surface plate with this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007EMPCQ4
386176

I was taught that marking on metal by scratching through layout fluid was an acceptable use for calipers. The guy who does the amazing Clickspring videos uses this method a lot, for example at 0:40 in this video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DoDkoioiR6w&t=40s

I could watch his videos all day. Wait, I've done that.

JKJ

[Warren Lake]

thats cool John, amazing what metal guys can do. Remember being at the tool and die maker he would zero out his Bridgeport,. (real one and he had bought it new) then just dial in his numbers on the digital read out to .0005. I asked for a bushing .020 thick to go on a router bit bearing, he said you want slip fit, interferance fit or press fit? I thought you can actually make a thing like that and have such control on tolerances. Unlike me his calipers always stayed in the case He took good care of his machines but his shop was cluttered and you walked through narrow isles of stuff to get to machines. I told another German friend if they saw how messy his shop was they would take his German Citizenship away. Made a part for Honda once and they said it was the best quality they ever had made.

[Keith Hankins]

Mitutoyo for me! Although, I bought a cheaper model (not cheap) and wondered what the diff was? Found out the cheaper model, did not have auto off! Sucks, as I've killed a few of the batteries (my fault).

Love love it it's more accurate than I can get with wood!

[Nick Decker]

Before I purchased the Starrett I looked around for a Mitutoyo fractional dial caliper, couldn't find one.