Removing Resaw marks

[Carmine Iacono]

Hi,
I intend to do some band saw re-sawing probably nothing large than 24”L x 6”W. The thicknesses I’ll be shooting for are 1/8”, ¼”, and 3/8”, respectively. I’m going to use a ½” Wood Slicer blade. In spite of the rave reviews the Wood Slicer has received, every resawing result will have some blade marks. In order to remove the blade marks should I then run the wood through a jointer or a planer? I own neither and can only purchase one.
Thanks!
:confused:

[lowell holmes]

I would use a scraper to remove the marks and then buy the tool I fantacize about owning.
You can sand after scraping.

I have a jointer and a planer. I would use the planer because it will plane up to 12" wide stock.
My jointer has 6" long knives.

[John K Jordan]

Hi,
I intend to do some band saw re-sawing probably nothing large than 24”L x 6”W. The thicknesses I’ll be shooting for are 1/8”, ¼”, and 3/8”, respectively. I’m going to use a ½” Wood Slicer blade. In spite of the rave reviews the Wood Slicer has received, every resawing result will have some blade marks. In order to remove the blade marks should I then run the wood through a jointer or a planer? I own neither and can only purchase one.
Thanks!
:confused:

I have a jointer and planer. However, for thing pieces I prefer to use a drum sander (mine is a Performax 22-44). I admit to having no experience trying to joint or plane 1/8" strips of wood but I do know the sander does what I need. I don't have a Wood Slicer blade so my 1/2" 3tpi blades makes zillions of blade marks for the sander to work on!

A few months ago I resawed some 12" wide walnut into sizes 1/4" and less and sanded to make thick "veneer" to glue up between thicker stock for woodturning, a Beads of Courage box in this case.

385403

Sometimes these sanders can be found used for a good price. Here is a thread on the 10" version: https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?13659-REVIEW-Performax-10-20-Plus

JKJ

[andy bessette]

...thing pieces I prefer to use a drum sander (mine is a Performax 22-44)...

I also use the same drum sander on thin pieces which are below the thickness range, or are too short for my 13" Delta planer.

[keith wootton]

jointer will not work for your task. drum sander or planer will. set your resawn pieces on a longer, wider, and thick board to run thru planer, this will stiffen them so you will get consistent thickness. expect some damage or loss if you use planer especially with the thinnest veneers. i think 1/8 will me iffy and some planers will do better than others. planer knifes will not play nice with grain run out in very thin stock and strips may break or shatter. paying close attention to grain direct will help. ymmv

[David Helm]

I would assume you flattened the piece originally before resawing (jointer). If so, for thin pieces I would definitely use a drum sander. I make a lot of boxes, joint first, flatten other side either on planer or drum sander, resaw, remove marks and get equal thickness with drum sander.

[Nick Decker]

Resawing and a drum sander are the perfect combo. If you get one, you'll be surprised how much you use it for other things as well. I use the Jet 10-20, but most of my work is small scale.

[Jim Becker]

The two choices really are thickness planer or drum sander for this job and given your desire to do 1/8" thick material, the sander is going to be of particular interest. Really thin stock in a planer can be hard to process without damage in my experience.

[Jamie Buxton]

Depending on your intended use, you can probably clean up the resaw marks with a hand held ROS sander. No need to buy a drum sander. I slice veneer in larger dimensions than you're thinking. (For instance, I'm just finishing up a small dining table that has a 60x34 veneered top.) I just glue the veneer to the substrate, then smooth the exposed face with a ROS. I start with 80 grit, or 100 grit if the wood sliced really nicely.

[Mitchell Ristine]

I have tried this through my DeWalt 734 with carbide knives with horrible results. Until I can get a drum sander, I have been relegated to a card scraper and ros.

[Robert Engel]

The machine of choice is a drum sander. Mainly for thicknessing because if tuned up well, you should <not> have many blade marks, even with a WoodSlicer.

Try tweaking the drift,,,, Or buy a carbide tooth blade :-)

Another option is glue the good side of the veneer down to the substrate then pass thru planer.