Flattening a wooden jointer plane

[Steven Mikes]

How would one go about this? I don't have a reference surface that large, unless the granite countertops in the kitchen are flat enough? I could maybe use the neighbors table saw. In either case, sandpaper doesn't usually come in sheets long enough to contact the whole underside at once.

[Chet R Parks]

Steven, you can use a belt from a belt sander and cut it so you have a long piece.

[Warren Lake]

I use stroke sander belts or you can get stick on automotive paper 2 3/4 wide put two rows beside each other. I use a shaper table. Checked with a good straightedge this machine is very flat. I normally go in one direction forward and reverse the plane end for end each stroke.

[steven c newman]

Or, just borrow another jointer plane, and take a few light strokes along the length of the sole. Jointer plane does not need to match the length of the sole being worked on. Even a #5 with a straight-edged iron will do. Make a lot of lines across the sole with a pencil. Plane until they are all gone. Check the sole for flat with a straight edge....both along the length AND at the diagonals.

[Warren Mickley]

I have used a smoothing plane, a straight edge and winding sticks for this work for forty years. This is very different than just truing a board or an edge because you really want to take off as little material as possible; it is not like you have extra to play with. Use the straight edge and the winding sticks to identify high spots. Then carefully plane only those high spots with the smoothing plane set very fine. Check your progress constantly with the straight edge and the sticks.

A beech plane sole, carefully planed in this many will yield an extremely slick sole,with no need for lubrication.

[Warren Lake]

I put magic marker lines on first, forgot to mention that, they act as a guide coat to clearly show you what is going on. On a metal plane even 0005 of low spot will clearly show up.

[Jim Koepke]

There are many sources of abrasive material available on rolls:

http://www.supergrit.com/products/sunmightgrnflm

The rolls are at the bottom of the page. (PSA = Pressure Sensitive Adhesive backed)

My understanding on Supergrit is they sell surplus stock, but that is just my understanding that may be incorrect.

The PSA roll adhesives in my shop were purchased from Supergrit, haven't purchased from other sources listed below:

http://www.industrialabrasives.com/sanding-rolls-c-79.html

https://www.lie-nielsen.com/product/blade-sharpening/3M-gold-sandpaper-80-grit?node=4203

Lee Valley appears to have a wider selection:

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?cat=1&p=42500

jtk

[Ted Phillips]

I also like to keep the sole perpendicular to the sides. Unless you are going to be using it on a shooting board, this isn't absolutely essential. I like to use the sides as a reference frequently and having them 90 degrees to the sole keeps me happy.

[lowell holmes]

I would consider flattening it with my 607 Bedrock plane.

[Terry Beadle]

I use a card scraper set to a fine shaving. Then use a certified straight edge with a flash light to test flatness. Rarely need twist sticks.
I have a Japanese sole scraper plane if there is a heavy work area that needs attention.

I will say my two wooden jointers don't and didn't need much attention.

Good luck and enjoy the shavings!