Talk me out of a used 5hp Sawstop?

[Patrick Irish]

This would be replacing a 3hp 1999 Unisaw that I bought used on CL. I've added a sharkguard adjustable riving knife and the guard, never use the guard. It's also a 36" model. The adjustable riving knife is cool but a hassle to have to manually adjust it and make sure know to raise the blade and run it into the riving knife.

That said....

I'm going to look at a 5hp single phase Sawstop tomorrow evening. It's 12 years old. It is a 52" model so I'll need to cut down the rails OR store them and find a 36" rail set. Cheaper to cut them down likely.

I can sell my Unisaw for $1,000-$1,300 likely.

Getting it for $2,000.

Thoughts? Is it too old? I'm going to get shit from the fiance as we are in wedding planning mode but whatever :D:D:D can't pass the deal up.

[Frank Martin]

Assuming Sawstop is in great condition and you have the money it is a no brainer.

[Patrick Walsh]

I have one of the original 5hp industrial ST’s..

I paid $1800 for it with a blade that would not hold 90% or crank up and down without a struggle. Both were easy fixes with the excellent help of a sawstop tech.

For short money I was able to upgrade the internal of the saws dust collection and the blade guard. I also made a new side table as the original was destroyed. A sheet of black laminate and some scrap 3/4 plywood a quick poilish of th tables and the saw looked and worked as good as new.

I have used and use lots of machines, both at and for work and just because I love quality tools. The sawstop at the price you are talking is a very nice tool by comparison to your Unisaw....

[Mike Kees]

This saw will not cut anything the Unisaw wont. If you want to upgrade look for a slider. I bought a Minimax sc2 for $1200 . After having it for the last six months,I will never buy another cabinet saw again. I have a Unisaw with a sharkguard just like yours. I really like it,the riving knife keeps the saw much safer and the guard part works well at picking up dust. It is a bit of a learning curve with adjusting, I cut the bottom portion of the riving knife so I can pull the thing right out. Mostly for using my dado stack. Only you can decide what to purchase but I would say that switching to another cabinet saw is a lateral move not a step up. Mike.

[Mike Henderson]

The SawStop is an excellent saw that can also save you from a serious injury. I'd certainly buy it.

Mike

[Scott Buehler]

Why cut it down to 36" do you not have the room for a 52"?

[Joe Jensen]

I moved from a PM66 to a Sawstop ICS 5HP. It was a major upgrade IMHO even if you ignore the blade break. My 1990 PM had a nearly useless blade guard and no riving knife. The Sawstop had much better adjustment capabilities to get the blade heel adjusted (look up blade heel). I spent like $2000 on top of what I sold the PM66 for to upgrade. No-brainer in my opinion. (PS, I am assuming this is the Sawstop Industrial saw given it's 5HP and that old).

[lee cox]

Are you spending money for something that does what you already have? I think both are excellent saws but why spend more money? You can probably do fine with your Unisaw. If your going to cut the Sawstop down I would stick with the smaller Unisaw.

[Simon MacGowen]

No brainer as others say. A sliding saw is not the same as a SS because it has no blade break.

Get the dust collection blade guard and the slim above the table tube afterwards. No other cabinet saws offer better dust collection than this setup.

Simon

[Patrick Irish]

Why cut it down to 36" do you not have the room for a 52"?

No room for a 52" in my garage I don't think. The way the jointer, planer and router table are situated I don't see how the 52" would fit.

[Keith Weber]

No brainer as others say. A sliding saw is not the same as a SS because it has no blade break.


You're correct that a sliding saw is different from a SS, but the lack of a blade brake (in the sense that you're referring) is a non-issue. You don't need a wiener brake on it because your wiener (or any other extremity) doesn't get anywhere near the blade. If it is, then you're using it wrong!

The real things that makes the sliding table saw different than a SS, are things like straight line ripping, larger capacity, ease and accuracy of handling sheet goods, scoring blades, etc...

A slider is an upgrade to a Unisaw. A SS will add a level of protection if you put your hand into the blade, but won't add any other functionality over the Unisaw's capabilities.

[Bill Space]

So it seems to boil down to whether you are looking for more functionality or more protection.

More functionality needed? Buy a slider I suppose.

Desire to to reduce the possibility of serious injury? Buy the SawStop or a slider.

Get two for one...buy the slider. :eek:

I do not have either but do see the logic...

Bill

[Roger Marty]

I would personally spend the $1000 for a SawStop insurance policy

[Jacob Mac]

I see the appeal of a good slider, but if space is an issue, do you have room for a slider? The stroke on a slider can eat up a ton of space.

I would trade up to the SS, just because it is a great saw and I have wanted one for years. So I am not the most objective person on this issue.

[Chuck Saunders]

I would trade up to the SS for the riving knife, Flesh sensing is a perk that I hope I would never enjoy. Upgrading for the expected $700-1000 is a reasonable upgrade. I don't see the point of suggesting a slider unless you know of one in the price range that is avaialable.
Chuck

[Todd Bender]

If I could afford it, I'd certainly test drive (with the intent to purchase) a Sawstop for the same reason I wear a seat belt while driving.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

No room for a 52" in my garage I don't think. The way the jointer, planer and router table are situated I don't see how the 52" would fit.

I put my 52" ICS on their mobile base. It's an awesome base. Everything in my garage are on mobile bases. It will fit. You just need to juggle a bit. I also have a dust collector, band saw, drill press etc. It will fit. Get it. You will not be sorry.

[Simon MacGowen]

You're correct that a sliding saw is different from a SS, but the lack of a blade brake (in the sense that you're referring) is a non-issue. You don't need a wiener brake on it because your wiener (or any other extremity) doesn't get anywhere near the blade. If it is, then you're using it wrong!

The real things that makes the sliding table saw different than a SS, are things like straight line ripping, larger capacity, ease and accuracy of handling sheet goods, scoring blades, etc...

A slider is an upgrade to a Unisaw. A SS will add a level of protection if you put your hand into the blade, but won't add any other functionality over the Unisaw's capabilities.
Just recently in another thread where someone shared a video in which a guy used a sliding saw with his fingers close to the spinning blade. I asked if that was a proper way of using a sliding saw but no one answered my observation.

Also a prototype sliding saw (Italalian?) with a saw stop feature could be seen a YouTube video shared in this forum before. A sliding saw and blade brake are not necessarily mutually exclusive.
Simon

[lee cox]

The first time he trips the Sawstop by accident and has to spend all that money he will be wishing for his Unisaw. The other sad thing is he will lose his high dollar blade and he will have to wait a week or so before he is up and running again. So all work stops.

[Mike Henderson]

The first time he trips the Sawstop by accident and has to spend all that money he will be wishing for his Unisaw. The other sad thing is he will lose his high dollar blade and he will have to wait a week or so before he is up and running again. So all work stops.

I don't understand why someone would have to wait a week to get up and running again. I accidentally tripped my brake (with my thumb) and I went to my local supplier and bought a new brake. I had extra blades so I was back up in maybe an hour. I now keep an extra brake in my shop so I could be up in 30 minutes or less.

And if I didn't have the SawStop, I'd have been a lot more than an hour in the ER and in recovery time.

As far as money goes, the cost of the brake and the blade was nothing compared to what my ER cost would have been.

Mike

[Peter Christensen]

Get the SawStop. Get a spare brake and you won't have an accidental cut. It's just the way things are. ;) Who only has one blade that they couldn't get by with one of the others? Get a spare blade if that's critical too. You have spare tires in your cars and don't gripe about them. You have several rolls of TP in the bathroom just in case and you'll really gripe if there isn't! :eek: Having an accidental brake activation as a reason not to get the saw is poor argument. Having to bear the cost of brake activation is nothing in comparison to writing a check to the hospital when you can't hold a pen anymore.

Looks like I just repeated what Mike said. Should learn to type faster.

[John Sanford]

Sorry, I can't talk you out of it. If you were thinking of going the other way, SS to Uni, I'd take a crack at talking you out of it, but that ain't the case. Were it me, the SS would be in my shop and the Uni up on Craigslist already. As a safety upgrade, it's worth it. The extra 2hp and larger table surface may be handy as well.

Before cutting or doing anything else to the fence rails, you may be able to simply swap the rails from the ICS with the Uni's rails, and use the ICS fence. If it weren't for the greater depth of the ICS over the Uni, you could do a complete fence system swap, although that may still be possible.

[Bryan Lisowski]

I'm sure your Unisaw will cut anything the SS can. I think you mentioned that the SS is $2000, personally I think that is high for a 12 year old model.

[lee cox]

I'm sure your Unisaw will cut anything the SS can. I think you mentioned that the SS is $2000, personally I think that is high for a 12 year old model.

Sounds like he needs to buy an extra brake and a copy of his good saw blade. It all adds up.

[Simon MacGowen]

Sounds like he needs to buy an extra brake and a copy of his good saw blade. It all adds up.

Even more, if he also goes for the dust collection blade guard, overhead dust collection, a spare ZCI for angled cuts, and a brake for dado cuts (and the hydraulic mobile base). Are they all worth it? Only he can decide...I have gone down the SS path with all the optional features (except the slider) and have been very happy with the money spent.

Simon

[Patrick Irish]

Sounds like he needs to buy an extra brake and a copy of his good saw blade. It all adds up.

Believe it comes with extra dado and regular brake and blade guard. Hoping to see it tonight and maybe bring it home. It will have to stay strapped in my small pickup until I sell the unisaw.

It weights 680lbs. Hope my little doge ram 50 can handle it. I hauled the unisaw Home it.

[Nick Decker]

Hope you have some beefy friends, and a place to park the truck indoors. :)

[Carlos Alvarez]

Back to the topic: Talking you out of it!

1. Because fingers are over-rated.

2. Most hospitals have at least a few hot nurses (of both genders, I don't judge).

3. More power? That means more noise and electrical cost. Think of the planet. Speaking of which, do you ever worry about what sort of planet we're going to leave behind for Keith Richards?

4. The Saw Stop has a pretty paint scheme, the Unisaw is ManlyGray(tm). You don't want people wondering about you, do you?

[Simon MacGowen]

Back to the topic: Talking you out of it!

1. Because fingers are over-rated.

2. Most hospitals have at least a few hot nurses (of both genders, I don't judge).

3. More power? That means more noise and electrical cost. Think of the planet. Speaking of which, do you ever worry about what sort of planet we're going to leave behind for Keith Richards?

4. The Saw Stop has a pretty paint scheme, the Unisaw is ManlyGray(tm). You don't want people wondering about you, do you?

5. A SS makes you lower your guard and numbs you with a false sense of security (...and you may start driving without putting on your safety belt first)

6. A SS prevents you from calling in sick on a Monday, after working in the shop the whole weekend, because a bandaged thumb, if it happens, does not qualify for sick days.

Simon

[Carlos Alvarez]

Hah, yeah, those too.

For the record I think the SS is simply a crutch for people who don't want to be careful and orderly, but I can't resist easy jokes.

[Patrick Kane]

I agree the SS industrial saw is better than the unisaw, but i just dont know if its THAT much better for me to go out an spend a day moving a heavy saw by myself(disassembling and reassembling), along with spending a grand on top of it. The unisaw is a good saw. The sawstop is probably slightly better built, slightly heavier, and has the technology, but those are a lot of "slightly's" for a lot of money and work. I wont talk you out of the upgrade, because it is an upgrade, but i will ask what the rest of your shop looks like. If you are rocking a 14" bandsaw, or a 6" jointer, then i would absolutely advise you to take that $1000 and put it in a jar on your shelf.

Its a can of worms, but i have a Felder KF700 and i routinely use my unisaw for ripping and dados. The felder can take a dado blade, but i dont feel like spending a grand on their slot cutter. Despite what everyone says, i hate ripping on my slider. I just dont do it. NA cabinet saws still have their place IMO.

[Patrick Irish]

I agree the SS industrial saw is better than the unisaw, but i just dont know if its THAT much better for me to go out an spend a day moving a heavy saw by myself(disassembling and reassembling), along with spending a grand on top of it. The unisaw is a good saw. The sawstop is probably slightly better built, slightly heavier, and has the technology, but those are a lot of "slightly's" for a lot of money and work. I wont talk you out of the upgrade, because it is an upgrade, but i will ask what the rest of your shop looks like. If you are rocking a 14" bandsaw, or a 6" jointer, then i would absolutely advise you to take that $1000 and put it in a jar on your shelf.

Its a can of worms, but i have a Felder KF700 and i routinely use my unisaw for ripping and dados. The felder can take a dado blade, but i dont feel like spending a grand on their slot cutter. Despite what everyone says, i hate ripping on my slider. I just dont do it. NA cabinet saws still have their place IMO.

8" grizzly 4090x I found used and a used jet 14" bandsaw.

[Dan Rude]

Before I got my PCS 3HP, I talked to a friend that had the ICS. His opinion was it was better than his Uni and wouldn't go back. When I picked up my Sawstop, I had a friend who mangled his thumb on a job site saw at home. Even with Medicare, he paid more than the cost of a Sawstop in payments. This was someone who had worked in the trades for 35 years. His thumb still hurts everyday as a reminder. Dan

[Patrick Irish]

Drove the 45min away to check it out and put a deposit down. Man did it sound good, hummed great when I turned it on. Was missing the riving knife and spare brakes but the seller has them packed up and in box and is moving 5 minutes from my house. If I don't have them Saturday when I go to pick it up I'll probably hold $200 until I get them.

[Patrick Irish]

Anyone think this mobile base will do? Currently the one I use for my Unisaw and was thinking about keeping it. The ICS mobile bases is $300 :eek:

https://www.bighorncorp.com/pub/media/catalog/product/cache/image/1000x1000/e9c3970ab036de70892d86c6d221abfe/b/i/big-horn-24501-lg.jpg

[Roger Bull]

I'd be a little skeptical about that base working well. It might work but the Sawstop ICS base is REALLY NICE. I would buy mine again in a heartbeat. If you need to move yours often I would strongly recommend the Sawstop base.

I'm assuming your new one is an ICS (model number of older 1ph 5hp ICS is CB 51230). I don't have any experience with the PCS mobile base.

[Peter Christensen]

SawStop ICS is a weighty puppy. Get their hydraulic base. It is light years ahead of that and worth every penny.

[Simon MacGowen]

I'm assuming your new one is an ICS (model number of older 1ph 5hp ICS is CB 51230). I don't have any experience with the PCS mobile base.

The standard PCS mobile base is not much different from other mobile bases and it works if there is a lot of room to maneuver. For tight spaces or for ease of operation, the upgraded PCS mobile base (ie, conversion kit for use with the ICS mobile base) is worth every cent of the money. For the ICS, the SS hydraulic mobile base is the only practical solution unless it is meant to be stationary. The monster is at least 400 pounds if my memory is right.

Simon

[Frank Pratt]

I have the ICS mobile base on my PCS & it is absolutely wonderful. It also has all 4 wheels that swivel, which in my cramped shop is very nice to have. As far as the fence goes, I went from a 52" to a 36" & haven't missed those 16" at all.

[Trent Davis]

I don't understand why someone would have to wait a week to get up and running again. I accidentally tripped my brake (with my thumb) and I went to my local supplier and bought a new brake. I had extra blades so I was back up in maybe an hour. I now keep an extra brake in my shop so I could be up in 30 minutes or less.

And if I didn't have the SawStop, I'd have been a lot more than an hour in the ER and in recovery time.

As far as money goes, the cost of the brake and the blade was nothing compared to what my ER cost would have been.

Mike

Another thing worth mentioning is that if you set off the brake due to skin contact, SawStop will replace the brake cartridge for free.

[Roy Turbett]

This would be replacing a 3hp 1999 Unisaw that I bought used on CL. I've added a sharkguard adjustable riving knife and the guard, never use the guard. It's also a 36" model. The adjustable riving knife is cool but a hassle to have to manually adjust it and make sure know to raise the blade and run it into the riving knife.

That said....

I'm going to look at a 5hp single phase Sawstop tomorrow evening. It's 12 years old. It is a 52" model so I'll need to cut down the rails OR store them and find a 36" rail set. Cheaper to cut them down likely.

I can sell my Unisaw for $1,000-$1,300 likely.

Getting it for $2,000.

Thoughts? Is it too old? I'm going to get shit from the fiance as we are in wedding planning mode but whatever :D:D:D can't pass the deal up.

I made almost the exact same trade as you describe a couple of years ago - a 1990's vintage 3 hp Unisaw with a 52" fence plus $1,800 for a 12 year old 5 hp SawStop. In hindsight, I wouldn't make the trade again. Both saws perform equally well for standard operations. But switching back and forth between dados and standard cuts is a pain. The riving knife on the SawStop is better than the Biesmeyer splitter on the Unisaw, but the UniFence is a much nicer fence. I've had one unintended misfire on the SawStop when I didn't recalibrate the cartridge when changing blades. No accidents with either saw but I'm willing to accept the risk should I decide to switch back.

[Frank Pratt]

But switching back and forth between dados and standard cuts is a pain.

Just curious as to why it's a pain. The only difference I've notice between my old Jet contractor saw & the SawStop is that the brake cartridge needs to be swapped. But that only takes about 15 seconds.

[Joe Jensen]

The first time he trips the Sawstop by accident and has to spend all that money he will be wishing for his Unisaw. The other sad thing is he will lose his high dollar blade and he will have to wait a week or so before he is up and running again. So all work stops.

Doubtful, more likely it will be a reminder to be safe. My advice, the riving knife is great and not in the way. The guard too is great. Keep them on whenever possible. When I got the ICS I did and now I use a riving knife and blade guard unless I'm not cutting through the stock.

[Roy Turbett]

Just curious as to why it's a pain. The only difference I've notice between my old Jet contractor saw & the SawStop is that the brake cartridge needs to be swapped. But that only takes about 15 seconds.

Inconvenient would be a better word. The bottom line for me is that the SawStop's main feature of reducing the risk of injury isn't worth the $1,800 difference I paid. But I respect that is not the case for others.

[johnny means]

I agree the SS industrial saw is better than the unisaw, but i just dont know if its THAT much better for me to go out an spend a day moving a heavy saw by myself(disassembling and reassembling), along with spending a grand on top of it. The unisaw is a good saw. The sawstop is probably slightly better built, slightly heavier, and has the technology, but those are a lot of "slightly's" for a lot of money and work. I wont talk you out of the upgrade, because it is an upgrade, but i will ask what the rest of your shop looks like. If you are rocking a 14" bandsaw, or a 6" jointer, then i would absolutely advise you to take that $1000 and put it in a jar on your shelf.

Its a can of worms, but i have a Felder KF700 and i routinely use my unisaw for ripping and dados. The felder can take a dado blade, but i dont feel like spending a grand on their slot cutter. Despite what everyone says, i hate ripping on my slider. I just dont do it. NA cabinet saws still have their place IMO.

Preach. I can't understand how that "sliders are safer" rubbish persist.The most dangerous cuts on a cabinet saw just get more awkward and dangerous on a slider.

[johnny means]

Inconvenient would be a better word. The bottom line for me is that the SawStop's main feature of reducing the risk of injury isn't worth the $1,800 difference I paid. But I respect that is not the case for others.
I've always hated paying car insurance. It just felt like burning money. Then some guy ran a stop sign.

[Charles Coolidge]

Anyone think this mobile base will do? Currently the one I use for my Unisaw and was thinking about keeping it. The ICS mobile bases is $300 :eek:



I like this one $56 https://www.grizzly.com/products/-Bear-Crawl-Heavy-Duty-Mobile-Base/T28000

384825

[marty fretheim]

Preach. I can't understand how that "sliders are safer" rubbish persist.The most dangerous cuts on a cabinet saw just get more awkward and dangerous on a slider.

Would you mind expanding a bit on this? Especially which awkward and dangerous cuts your referring to. If you can clamp your work to the table and stand 18" from the blade while making your cut, why is that rubbish? If slider users are not willing to take the time to use the proper technique or spend the money on the proper gear, then yes, using a slider like a cabinet saw can be disadvantageous and unsafe. Im still learning how to use mine to its full and safest potential. Thats why I am asking for an explanation, not to be argumentative.

Marty

[John Gulick]

Has your girlfriend/wife tried talking you out of the SawStop?

[Simon MacGowen]

Has your girlfriend/wife tried talking you out of the SawStop?

Gf may work, wife definitely won't!

https://www.google.com/search?q=wife+approved+sawstop+ad&client=firefox-b&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjkjKb_7dvaAhVL4YMKHWO7DJgQ_AUICygC&biw=1093&bih=450#imgrc=ui_XqAwJeUcZyM:

...unless a divorce process is on the plate.

Simon

[Joe Jensen]

in 2005 the salesman showed my wife a video of the Sawstop ICS and she demanded I order one on the spot. I hadn't even considered it. Like insurance I think.

[Simon MacGowen]

I like this one $56 https://www.grizzly.com/products/-Bear-Crawl-Heavy-Duty-Mobile-Base/T28000

384825

The Grizzly or the like CANNOT do all that the SS ICS or upgraded PCS mobile base can.

You can move the 500+-pound beast with the hydraulic mobile base even on carpeted floor, side way or forward or backward!

Simon

[Roy Turbett]

I've always hated paying car insurance. It just felt like burning money. Then some guy ran a stop sign.

I hate paying for insurance too. At the time I traded my Unisaw for the SawStop I had a number of friends that used to stop by for fellowship and woodworking and I made the trade more out of concern for their safety than my own. Fortunately no one ever had an accident. Now that I'm back to a one man shop I hope I never get careless and have to rely on the saw to save me. But if I didn't have a SawStop, I wouldn't stop using a table saw or my radial arm saw for that matter. Riding a motorcycle without a helmet is another story. Acceptable risk is a personal choice.

[Nick Decker]

Patrick, I wouldn't use one of the mobile bases that use wood to connect the four corners, but maybe that's just me. Maybe they're not unsafe, but I just prefer steel to support that much weight.

I use the ICS base on my PCS and am very happy with it. I work in a one-car garage and move the saw every time I use it, parking it against a wall in a pretty small, defined space. The four swiveling wheels are very handy for that, but I would have to disagree with those who say you can move anything that heavy with one finger. There's this thing called inertia.

[Simon MacGowen]

but I would have to disagree with those who say you can move anything that heavy with one finger. There's this thing called inertia.
One finger?

Yes if it is just an empty base. I can move my saw on that base with just one hand though (with dome effort).

Simon

[Keith Weber]

Preach. I can't understand how that "sliders are safer" rubbish persist.The most dangerous cuts on a cabinet saw just get more awkward and dangerous on a slider.


Would you mind expanding a bit on this? Especially which awkward and dangerous cuts your referring to. If you can clamp your work to the table and stand 18" from the blade while making your cut, why is that rubbish? If slider users are not willing to take the time to use the proper technique or spend the money on the proper gear, then yes, using a slider like a cabinet saw can be disadvantageous and unsafe.

Awkward and dangerous?? Really? Marty pretty much hit the nail on that head in his response. If you refuse to equip and use a slider properly, then you're introducing your own awkwardness and danger. With a Parallel Jig and hold down clamps, I would consider ripping lumber safer than on a cabinet saw. Your hands are not even close to the blade, you're out of the line of fire, and your cut will likely be smoother because it's not subject to manual variances in pressure against a fence.

Small pieces to cut? Fritz & Franz jig! There's nothing unsafe or awkward about it.

A slider is a different tool than a cabinet saw. It should not be used in the same way. With my slider, my hands never get within a foot of the blade - ever. I can't say the same of my cabinet saw when I still had it. You can prefer and use whatever you like, but to call something dangerous and awkward when you probably don't even know how to use it properly is kind of pointless.

[Nick Decker]

I forget where the "one finger" comment came from, maybe a YouTube review. My point was that some people tend to get carried away with praise of the ICS base. For me, it's solid, well made and does what it's supposed to. It is subject to the same issues as other bases with four swivels - it can be a little ungainly to get it to change directions when it's loaded with a heavy machine.

[Simon MacGowen]

A slider is a different tool than a cabinet saw. It should not be used in the same way.

I suppose so, although a video somewhere in this forum showed the guy using the sliding saw with his hand/fingers inches away from the spinning blade and Tom (the new Rough Cut) was seen using a cross cut sled on the slider as well.

The fact is sliding saws do not reduce the severity of a saw injury if and when it happens. Using a sliding saw does not by itself avoid saw injuries, just like using a non-sawstop saw does not mean injuries will happen.

Most hobbyists don't have the money or the space to put a sliding saw in their shops and unless they do, the SS is the safest option available.

Simon

[Frank Pratt]

Inconvenient would be a better word. The bottom line for me is that the SawStop's main feature of reducing the risk of injury isn't worth the $1,800 difference I paid. But I respect that is not the case for others.

Got it. The safety brake was way down on the list when I got a SawStop. My main reasons were great dust collection, quality of build, power, and good riving knife & guard. But I was moving up from a 1.5 HP contractor saw.

[Charles Coolidge]

The Grizzly or the like CANNOT do all that the SS ICS or upgraded PCS mobile base can.

You can move the 500+-pound beast with the hydraulic mobile base even on carpeted floor, side way or forward or backward!

Simon

Dude never said it could, did you miss the part where its only $56 lol.

[Simon MacGowen]

Dude never said it could, did you miss the part where its only $56 lol.

That's money wasted if it can't help a saw owner work in a tight space. I doubt that the base with those small castors can work even in an ample shop for a saw that weighs between 500 to 650 pounds (depending on the models/accessories installed).

The SawStop is a top-end cabinet saw and saving money on the mobile base or dust collection (it has the best d.c. among all cabinet saws tested in the latest issue of Wood magazine) in my opinion would degrade its full capability. There is a reason why SawStop offers one of those two items free during its promotion sale (which is still on), because it knows its competitors can't match those features.

Simon

[Nick Decker]

The mobile base offered in the promotion is not the one that fits the ICS, which is the model the OP is asking about.

[Simon MacGowen]

The mobile base offered in the promotion is not the one that fits the ICS, which is the model the OP is asking about.

I stand corrected. I bought mine (PCS) for years and must have paid extra for the upgraded base.

Simon

[Chris Fournier]

Slider or stick and stay. This being said a slider won't offer any additional safety when ripping. 25 plus year of woodworking and I have all of my digits. I'd take my General 350 back right now if I could. Table saw safety is an operator thing. If you're a careless operator then go SS and load up on brakes and blades, and don't use your jointer, planer, bandsaw, edge sander...

[Carlos Alvarez]

in 2005 the salesman showed my wife a video of the Sawstop ICS and she demanded I order one on the spot. I hadn't even considered it. Like insurance I think.

Mine turned to me and said, "Are you stupid enough to need that?" Salesman tried to contain the laughter.

[Charles Coolidge]

I doubt that the base with those small castors can work even in an ample shop for a saw that weighs between 500 to 650 pounds (depending on the models/accessories installed).

Simon

Erase all doubt, the Grizzly mobile base has 3 inch STEEL hub wheels with seal bearings and is rated for 1,200 lbs, what's the Saw Stop base rated for?

[Nick Decker]

Erase all doubt, the Grizzly mobile base has 3 inch STEEL hub wheels with seal bearings and is rated for 1,200 lbs, what's the Saw Stop base rated for?

I don't recall ever seeing a rating for it. It's not adjustable for use on other machines.

[John Gulick]

Mine turned to me and said, "Are you stupid enough to need that?" Salesman tried to contain the laughter.

It's all laughs until an accident. How will the wife respond in the emergency room?

We have two SawStops and a Uni and a PM 74 and a Rockwell 12-14. Our SS cabinet is the king by far, worth every penny.

[Simon MacGowen]

It's all laughs until an accident. How will the wife respond in the emergency room?
.

Unless the spouse regardless of gender is knowledgeable about shop safety, relying on her or him to make a decision on whether or not the SS is a right buy tells me the woodworker is just as ignorant as his or her spouse. The laugh is on the woodworker. Period.

Simon

[Charles Coolidge]

I don't recall ever seeing a rating for it. It's not adjustable for use on other machines.

The rating is posted right on their site, and its adjustable from 19" x 21" to 29-1/2" x 29-1/2". Maybe you have the Grizzly confused with some other mobile base?

[Nick Decker]

The rating is posted right on their site, and its adjustable from 19" x 21" to 29-1/2" x 29-1/2". Maybe you have the Grizzly confused with some other mobile base?

I was referring to the SawStop base not having a rating.

[Peter Christensen]

SawStop hydraulic base is rated at 1000 lb.

[Mike Henderson]

Mine turned to me and said, "Are you stupid enough to need that?" Salesman tried to contain the laughter.

My wife would never ask me that question - she already knows the answer.:) She'd demand I purchase a SawStop.

(Except I already had it when I married her.)

Mike

[Carlos Alvarez]

How will the wife respond in the emergency room?


Probably talk a huge load of crap about my intelligence and ask what I will do to prevent being negligent again.

[John Sanford]

Doubtful, more likely it will be a reminder to be safe. My advice, the riving knife is great and not in the way.

Ha! The riving knife is a vicous, nasty, evil thing that will lay your hand open if given a chance. Yes, yes, I am the one fellow who managed to cut himself moderately on a SawStop. And it wasn't running. Hell, it didn't have a blade installed and wasn't even plugged in!! Just an innocent looking riving knife.... with a sharp, nasty tooth looking to slash a naive passing hand ...


The guard too is great. Keep them on whenever possible. When I got the ICS I did and now I use a riving knife and blade guard unless I'm not cutting through the stock.

This. What he said. Well, I assume the guard is good, I have a PCS not an ICS.

[John Sanford]

Mine turned to me and said, "Are you stupid enough to need that?" Salesman tried to contain the laughter.

"Depends... are you going to keep coming into the shop and interrupting me in the middle of a cut?"

[Simon MacGowen]

This. What he said. Well, I assume the guard is good, I have a PCS not an ICS.

As far as I know, the d.c. guards are the same for either model.

Simon

[Carlos Alvarez]

"Depends... are you going to keep coming into the shop and interrupting me in the middle of a cut?"

LOL! But we do have a protocol for getting each others' attention in the shop (she's into it also).

[Patrick Irish]

Well I got it. It took half a day and was tricky getting out of a garage that had a steep incline.

Seller can't locate brakes and riving knife as they are mid move and it boxed up. I'm antsy to use BUT need to figure out if the 52" rails fit in my garage. My unisaw was the 36" and didn't have much more room with router table and other equipment. I may sell off some 14' lengths of 8/4 & 10/4 mahogany in order to make space. Could always cut the rails down.

Also need to decide on whos blade guard to use. Buy sawstops or use the sharkguard that I have.

[Mike Henderson]

Well I got it. It took half a day and was tricky getting out of a garage that had a steep incline.

Seller can't locate brakes and riving knife as they are mid move and it boxed up. I'm antsy to use BUT need to figure out if the 52" rails fit in my garage. My unisaw was the 36" and didn't have much more room with router table and other equipment. I may sell off some 14' lengths of 8/4 & 10/4 mahogany in order to make space. Could always cut the rails down.

Also need to decide on whos blade guard to use. Buy sawstops or use the sharkguard that I have.

Congratulations! You'll enjoy the saw and the protection it provides.

Mike

[Bill Space]

Congratulations! You'll enjoy the saw and the protection it provides.

Mike

Like Mike, I am sure you will enjoy the saw. But contrary to Mike, I hope you keep your fingers away from the blade and DO NOT enjoy the protection it provides. :D