Too cheap to buy molding....

[steven c newman]

Decided to mill my own, the way I wanted mine to look...
I used a scrap of Pine, to work out the "details" as to what was needed..
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Traced out a pattern, adapted to a few cutters I have..
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Turned out, I didn't need the straight cutter...

Step one ( after jigging the board in place) was to set up the Stanley #45 as a bead cutter.
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Step two was to set it up to plough a cove..
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using half of the cutter. Which left the rebate..
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Flipped the board over, set up the Wards/Stanley #78 to do the job it does best.
marked a line..
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To make a rip cut...then a smooth plane to smooth the saw marks
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I now have a pattern to set the planes to...and make some moldings out of the "good" stuff..
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Or least wood that matches the wood I am using on a project...
I suppose I could grind about any sort of shape onto a cutter, and make other styles of molding....this will do, for now..

[Stew Denton]

Hi Steven,

Nice job on the molding!

Hey, I forgot to add that cheap is good, we think alike on that. If I can make it, why buy it!

Stew

[Jim Koepke]

Step two was to set it up to plough a cove..

How this was done would be an interesting piece for others including myself.

jtk

[steven c newman]

What all do you want to know?
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The cutter USED to be a #28 bead cutter. Was reground a while back, when I was building a box to hold auger bits in.
In the molding's case, I was using about half of the cutter.
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One skate ( main stock) rode on the quirk of the bead I had done first....the skate on the sliding stock supported the middle of the cutter. Fence was set so only half of the cutter was used.
Was not a "perfect" cove, but was close enough.
I used the cutter to help mark out the profile, as well as the bead cutter..
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And then a rebate was sketched as well. While the Stanley 45 could have also done the rebate, it was just easier for me to use the #78 rebate plane.

[Jim Koepke]

One skate ( main stock) rode on the quirk of the bead I had done first....the skate on the sliding stock supported the middle of the cutter. Fence was set so only half of the cutter was used.
Was not a "perfect" cove, but was close enough.

Thanks Steven, though some of us know different ways to coax a #45 into doing some fancy tricks many folks reading these posts have no idea how to cut a stopped bead, groove or a cove using one.

Seeing such techniques and how they are done might help someone else.

jtk

[steven c newman]

Sometimes, I will go a bit more into detail in those "Build Threads" I do....

I also tend to try different ways of doing things with each project. I have a router table, and a guided cove bit.....decided to try doing these with hand tools. I am sure some out would have a dedicated wood bodied molding plane that could make the same profile. The Stanley #55 even has a cutter that could do the non-rebate part.

[michael langman]

The molding looks nice Steven.Thanks for posting how you did it.

[Jim Koepke]

Quite a bit of my molding has been made using a Stanley #45.

For some moldings are just too big for the ol' Stanley:

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My electric router hasn't been used in years. It is just to noisy for my liking.

jtk

[steven c newman]

You can always buy a few straight cutters, and grind a new profile into the edges. The one I reground was a 3/4" bead cutter (??) that I didn't really need. Reground to make a hollow for an auger bit or three to settle down into. I can use just half of it's width for a 3/8" cove.

Stanley did make a set of Hollow and Rounds, with a special "sole" to be used....IF you can find them.

Make a set of moldings, by using a few cutters. Work your way down and towards the outside edge. Leave a bit for the main stock to ride along ( like the quirk of a bead, or a shallow groove) and work things on down. I used a wide board to make the molding, so I could also do a rebate on the back edge. Then I can simply rip the molding free, and start over on the next one. Joint the new edge first, before the next stick is made. I made a "pattern" to help reset each cutter used. Once I liked the pattern, I used it to reset both of the two cutters ( and fence) in the 45.

[steven c newman]

Well, I need to make some more moldings....
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Plan is to trim the blank for the lid down, until it will fit inside the box....then wrap the edges with a bit of pine molding. Molding may have a rebate on the underside, so I can glue it to the lid. Time to get out another plank of pine.....
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Maybe do a few beads?