A kitchen by hand

[Brian Holcombe]

Just wanted to show off some photos of a project I completed a few months back. This kitchen is entirely by hand save for the last cabinet (around the refrigerator) which was mostly by machine with hand planing and hand detailing. So much hand dimensioning on this project my arms hurt if i think about it. :D

Barstools are BassamFellows, not my work but they're great. I plan to install chairs and dining table so some more photos in a few months when that's all wrapped up.


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[Brian Holcombe]

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Lesson: If you're planning to build a kitchen by hand...don't make it in white oak. :D

[Stanley Covington]

Very well done. I'm amazed you found a client with such excellent taste. They are rare.

How long do you think it will last before she slaps white paint on it? :eek:

Why not White Oak?

What provision did you make to keep the countertop (Walnut? Chestnut?) flat?

[Derek Cohen]

Superb, Brian. Just superb!

Is this your kitchen, or one for a client?

Regards from Perth

Derek

[andy bessette]

Very nice work on design, cabinetry and photos.

[Brian Holcombe]

Very well done. I'm amazed you found a client with such excellent taste. They are rare.

How long do you think it will last before she slaps white paint on it? :eek:

Why not White Oak?

What provision did you make to keep the countertop (Walnut? Chestnut?) flat?

Thanks Stan! Haha, I may fall over dead if I ever see it with white paint. They do have great taste, and as the project progressed they basically ok'd everything I wanted to do. The biggest transition was moving from a more typical kitchen to one without upper cabinets and instead everything in the lower cabinets and wall cabinets. It's a small space, so it really opened it up.


White oak is great, but it added some serious amount of time to the project when dimensioned by hand. When flattening panels I was likely sharpening my plane irons every 20 minutes or so.

I built a steel batten system for the counter top, so far, so good. The top was mounted to a stud wall and was utilized to strengthen the wall as well, against moving. It's been flat for about 6 months now, so I have high hopes that it will stay reasonably flat. The entire kitchen has gone through one full cycle of humidity with minimal issues. I had two panels which shrunk to the point of gapping along the sides and I was able to add 1/8"~ of material to them, otherwise it's been well behaved.


Superb, Brian. Just superb!

Is this your kitchen, or one for a client?

Regards from Perth

Derek

Thank you kindly! This is for a client, I'm looking forward to the day when I can build one for my house as well.


Very nice work on design, cabinetry and photos.

Thank you, Andy! Very much appreciated!

[Jim Koepke]

Beautiful work.

Though the drawers behind doors is different.

jtk

[ken hatch]

Brian,

Not much to add, as always beautiful work. Lots of sq. feet of Oak, my back hurts just looking at it :p .

ken

[Pat Barry]

Very nice. I really like the little corner shelf. I might steal that idea. I am curious about the drawer fronts though. You have wrapped them on the sides to hide the end grain. Any tips on how you did this?

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks gents! Much appreciated.

Pat, the drawers are veneer over birch ply with heavy solid wood edging. More difficult than solid wood drawer fronts but worth it. 10” & 15” drawer fronts would move too much to maintain even gaps otherwise.

[Matt Lau]

Nice!

Erm...don't you have a minimax jointer/planer?

[lowell holmes]

You are show off:)

[Brian Holcombe]

Nice!

Erm...don't you have a minimax jointer/planer?

Thank you!

I do, and doing this job by hand afforded it for me.

[Brian Holcombe]

You are show off:)

Hah! I do my best :D

[James Pallas]

Very nice Brian. Good feeling to be able to provide the client what they want in design and quality execution.
Jim

[Justin Ludwig]

Beautiful work.

Though the drawers behind doors is different.

jtk

+1

Everything is beautiful. I only got to build one set of QSWO cabinets and loved it (it wasn't by hand, that's for sure). I don't understand the drawers behind doors either? Seems a bit superfluous. I've been guilty of building things that even I asked, "what the?" Clients get what they want.

[Brian Holcombe]

Very nice Brian. Good feeling to be able to provide the client what they want in design and quality execution.
Jim

Thanks Jim! Very much appreciated! I completely agree, having the job go well with only minor hiccups and easy resolutions to get to a result that everyone is happy with is a great feeling.


+1

Everything is beautiful. I only got to build one set of QSWO cabinets and loved it (it wasn't by hand, that's for sure). I don't understand the drawers behind doors either? Seems a bit superfluous. I've been guilty of building things that even I asked, "what the?" Clients get what they want.

Thank you! It's certainly superfluous, but my clients like the type of doors that I build (big flat panel) and so they wanted a set for that area. It was not without some trouble as I made a minor goof with the hinges and so went a little crazy sourcing low-profile hinges to accommodate the issue. There is good reason why it is pretty uncommon to see drawers behind doors with cup hinges and the reason is that they consume a lot of space. That said I felt the result was very substantial in appearance and in use, it allowed to contrast a lighter wood but only in a way that shows when the doors are opened.

I had low drawers behind the other doors.

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These drawers were also faced (the ones behind doors) but with a thin 1/4" face simply glued over the existing face to form a neater facade.

A sharp eye will notice that the plumbing drains uphill, that was also fixed.

[Ryan Mooney]

Yeah yeah. a ton of hand dimensioning, super tight dovetails blah blah..

But those crisp 45 edge bevels... oolalah! be still my beating heart :D

[michael langman]

One beautiful kitchen Brian. Now I know why you are so thin.:)

[Phil Mueller]

Excellent as always. So glad to see your move to professional woodworking is being so well received. You certainly deserve it.

[Jerry Olexa]

You are fortunate to have a client that appreciates your fine craftmanship!!! Very well done!!! Love your results!!!

[Christopher Charles]

Fabulous as usual Brian, thanks for sharing. And relieved that you now have a bandsaw and j/p up to the task--congratulations! Will look forward to seeing the table and chairs in place.

Best,
Chris

[Doug Hepler]

Brian,

Ten out of ten for design and execution. Beautiful, restrained taste that allows the workmanship and material to stay in the foreground.

Doug

[Kevin Jenness]

Brian, what does it mean to build a "kitchen by hand"? Handcut dovetails and handplaned surfaces? Plywood and veneer cut with a handsaw and hinge mortises bored with a bit brace? Is the project priced to reflect the lower productivity of handwork, or does the client pay a premium to support the ethic of manual labor? If the results cannot be distinguished, what is the difference between work produced with hand or machine tools or a mix of the two?

Please don't take this as negative criticism or indifference to the visual quality of a handplaned versus a sanded surface. These are questions I often think about in my own work. As someone who makes a living working wood I generally use machinery and powered hand tools most of the time for efficiency while relying on "hand tools" when appropriate,and I suspect from reading some of your other posts that you do the same though probably with more emphasis on hand power.

I admire the design and detailing in your kitchen and thank you for posting it. It's a nice counterpoint to the run of the mill.

[Andrew Hughes]

It's really nice Brian. I see lots of harmony in the grain matching and colors. Its very peaceful :)

[Brian Holcombe]

Yeah yeah. a ton of hand dimensioning, super tight dovetails blah blah..

But those crisp 45 edge bevels... oolalah! be still my beating heart :D

Thank you! Hah, they are actually what I enjoy mostly as well. I like dovetails, but I've seen a few by this point. :D


One beautiful kitchen Brian. Now I know why you are so thin.:)

Hah! Thanks Michael!


Excellent as always. So glad to see your move to professional woodworking is being so well received. You certainly deserve it.

Thanks Phil!


You are fortunate to have a client that appreciates your fine craftmanship!!! Very well done!!! Love your results!!!

Thank you!


Fabulous as usual Brian, thanks for sharing. And relieved that you now have a bandsaw and j/p up to the task--congratulations! Will look forward to seeing the table and chairs in place.

Best,
Chris

Thanks Chris!


Brian,

Ten out of ten for design and execution. Beautiful, restrained taste that allows the workmanship and material to stay in the foreground.

Doug

Thank you!


Brian, what does it mean to build a "kitchen by hand"? Handcut dovetails and handplaned surfaces? Plywood and veneer cut with a handsaw and hinge mortises bored with a bit brace? Is the project priced to reflect the lower productivity of handwork, or does the client pay a premium to support the ethic of manual labor? If the results cannot be distinguished, what is the difference between work produced with hand or machine tools or a mix of the two?

Please don't take this as negative criticism or indifference to the visual quality of a handplaned versus a sanded surface. These are questions I often think about in my own work. As someone who makes a living working wood I generally use machinery and powered hand tools most of the time for efficiency while relying on "hand tools" when appropriate,and I suspect from reading some of your other posts that you do the same though probably with more emphasis on hand power.

I admire the design and detailing in your kitchen and thank you for posting it. It's a nice counterpoint to the run of the mill.

Thanks Kevin! FWIW, I'm distinguishing the difference for a forum of woodworkers because as far as industry is concerned if it's not fully automated process then it's hand made. The term has lost all practical meaning for distinguishing what is made by hand with hand tools. I'm drilling down a bit deeper here and further distinguishing in this context for my audience which is not going to consider hand fed machinery to be hand made even if the broader industry does.

I feel that by saying something is 90% made by hand, with hand tools that I'm basing it on the hours, 90% of my hours (or more) were hand-tool related hours. Hand work is time consuming but the result is often appreciated. It becomes pretty easy for a client interested in detail to spot the difference between the dovetails produced by and automatic dovetailer and those made by hand so the result is often distinguishable.

In any case, the conversation does not usually circle around hand vs machine with clients, but instead it will circle around design, process with consideration for joinery and finished aesthetic. I can detail the aesthetic of my work much differently that what is produced in a large production type shop because of the way that I do things. I will continue to add machinery to my work because I need to be competitive in terms of timeframe but it will remain highly hand tool and handwork centric. The most important part for me is to maintain and improve upon the integrity of the work.

My goal is to have the finished result to be as sweet as possible. I add machinery where it improves upon my process in terms of speed while maintaining quality, often improving upon the entire result as it allows me to design further detailed and further complex work while allowing me to build it in a more reasonable time frame. I avoid machinery where it reduces the work (in my opinion) in terms of design integrity and structural integrity.


It's really nice Brian. I see lots of harmony in the grain matching and colors. Its very peaceful :)

Thank you!

[Kevin Jenness]

Fair enough, but I still would like to know the justification (as a professional) for using hand tools where power tools can get you to the same result faster. Is it a matter of personal satisfaction? I don't see anything design wise that could not have been produced with a balance of 90% machine work and 10% hand work. For example, the drawer through dovetails could have been cut with a bandsaw. You may be adept enough to cut them by hand as fast as I could with a bandsaw, in which case good on you. Are you dimensioning rough lumber completely by hand, and if so, why? David Pye is curious.

[Don Orr]

Beautiful work as always Brian! I also love the perfect pyramid corners where the bevels meet. I also really like that corner shelf.

[Brian Holcombe]

Kevin,

When I started this project I didn't own a jointer/planer, I do now and so I use it. I think there is a value in dimensioning by hand, certainly, the value is that you know how to do it and you know how to check lumber for flatness, it also teaches you to handle a plane very well. So, now with Jointer/planer available I do the prep by machine but final surface is by hand. I'm capable enough with hand planes that it's actually considerably faster for me to hand plane them than to sand because of all that training.

This is a good topic, so happy to expand on this. It's actually tough for me to not write a very long reply and dig into detail in the form of example. Let me know if that is more what you're looking for.

Thanks Don!

[Warren Mickley]

Fair enough, but I still would like to know the justification (as a professional) for using hand tools where power tools can get you to the same result faster. Is it a matter of personal satisfaction? I don't see anything design wise that could not have been produced with a balance of 90% machine work and 10% hand work. For example, the drawer through dovetails could have been cut with a bandsaw. You may be adept enough to cut them by hand as fast as I could with a bandsaw, in which case good on you. Are you dimensioning rough lumber completely by hand, and if so, why? David Pye is curious.

I have often heard woodworkers say "I could easily make this by hand, but it would cost three (or four) times as much. Then when I look at their prices it is sometimes twice as much as what I as a hand tool woodworker would charge for the same work. The problem is that these fellows have an investment in machinery, an investment in training and experience in how to use the machinery, and a shop with more space more heating more lighting and more, which is entirely wasted when they do handwork. And in addition they have very little experience or training actually using hand tools. So hand work is very very expensive for them.

If you don't see anything that could not be made with 90% machine work, I think horizons are limited. In fact designs which demand handwork are the most likely to be effectively produced by hand.

[andy bessette]

...The problem is that these fellows have an investment in machinery, an investment in training and experience in how to use the machinery, and a shop with more space more heating more lighting and more, which is entirely wasted when they do handwork. And in addition they have very little experience or training actually using hand tools. So hand work is very very expensive for them...

Based on an inaccurate premise, your conclusion had to be wrong.

Many, I would say most types of woodworking require a mix of hand work and machine work, the choice of which is best made by the craftsman doing the work, based on his abilities, experience and the tools available to him. That is not to say that some woodworkers don't choose to waste hours doing by hand what could be done in minutes using a machine. Brian certainly knows how best to accomplish a specific task to create the look he desires. But I know others, one even here on this forum, who will spend many times the time and effort to do a simple task, by hand, rather than (he claims) listen to a machine running for a tiny fraction of that time. And with less desirable results.

[Todd Zucker]

Really spectacular, and I am glad Ryan pointed out the bevels. What finish did you use?

[Kevin Jenness]

"If you don't see anything that could not be made with 90% machine work, I think horizons are limited."

I see a very nice design carried out with style including excellent wood selection. I see crisp chamfering and I presume, though I can't tell from the photos, a pleasing hand-tooled finish on the surfaces, and those I would consider where hand work is most important in the project. Other than that, what I see is straightforward cabinet work that could (and in my shop would) be done primarily with electrically powered processes with no compromises in quality and if the finishing touches were done with hand tools would be indistinguishable from work done entirely by hand.

I recognize that some work can only be done or is best done by hand, and I appreciate the value of what Pye called "free workmanship" and "the workmanship of risk". Translating that philosophical value into cash from the customer is a skill in itself and I applaud Brian and his clientele.

Having read about the price books of 18th century journeyman furniture makers I know that someone who is thoroughly practiced in hand tools can work at considerable speed with far smaller overhead than is associated with a shop full of machinery. Still, economic reality makes the population of self-supporting furniture makers working primarily with hand tools rather small.

[Joe A Faulkner]

Thanks for the post Brian. Nice work. I'm curious as to what technique you used on your dovetails, saw and pare or saw, chop and pare? If chopping, what chisels did you use? The reason I ask is that I was searching for opinions on Japanese chisels, and I came across a couple of posts where comments were made suggesting that Japanese chisels are not a good fit for working hard woods such as maple. I'm curious as to what your experience has been on this subject. Thanks.

[Brian Holcombe]

Really spectacular, and I am glad Ryan pointed out the bevels. What finish did you use?

Thank you! I used mostly oil varnish.


"If you don't see anything that could not be made with 90% machine work, I think horizons are limited."

I see a very nice design carried out with style including excellent wood selection. I see crisp chamfering and I presume, though I can't tell from the photos, a pleasing hand-tooled finish on the surfaces, and those I would consider where hand work is most important in the project. Other than that, what I see is straightforward cabinet work that could (and in my shop would) be done primarily with electrically powered processes with no compromises in quality and if the finishing touches were done with hand tools would be indistinguishable from work done entirely by hand.

I recognize that some work can only be done or is best done by hand, and I appreciate the value of what Pye called "free workmanship" and "the workmanship of risk". Translating that philosophical value into cash from the customer is a skill in itself and I applaud Brian and his clientele.

Having read about the price books of 18th century journeyman furniture makers I know that someone who is thoroughly practiced in hand tools can work at considerable speed with far smaller overhead than is associated with a shop full of machinery. Still, economic reality makes the population of self-supporting furniture makers working primarily with hand tools rather small.

It was anything but straightforward cabinet work as I was working under an existing countertop that couldn't be removed. Instead it had to be blocked up. I designed a plinth which could be leveled, fitted with frames top and bottom and plywood slid in between them. This is not something I've seen cabinet shops make, just something I felt would work well. These parts can be made by machine, in this particular case.

I needed something that could be assembled in place, basically. I cut the plywood to an exact fit and worked it into these grooves, then applied a series of web frames and exterior frames to make a strong structure.

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Next more frames were fitted in which were to offset the drawers in from the sides, these frames locked into another set of frames overhead for the drawers above the doors and the structure now becomes quite rigid.

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The frames were made using bridle joints with a rabbet about the inside to make fitting panels easier.

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Homeowner (client) took down the back wall at this point, making it into a half wall and leaving the large support beam in the wall. I had concerns about the wall at that point, being only a half wall and so I made up a steel bracket that would work as a tie for the wall and double as a support for the bar-top.

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Thanks for the post Brian. Nice work. I'm curious as to what technique you used on your dovetails, saw and pare or saw, chop and pare? If chopping, what chisels did you use? The reason I ask is that I was searching for opinions on Japanese chisels, and I came across a couple of posts where comments were made suggesting that Japanese chisels are not a good fit for working hard woods such as maple. I'm curious as to what your experience has been on this subject. Thanks.

Thanks Joe! I saw them, then cut to the line with a chisel. Japanese chisels are fine in hardwoods.

[Rob Luter]

....White oak is great, but it added some serious amount of time to the project when dimensioned by hand. When flattening panels I was likely sharpening my plane irons every 20 minutes or so....

I feel your pain. I work in QSWO most of the time. Sometimes it's like working with stone. I did a couple small projects using cherry and spanish cedar recently and it felt like I was working with soap by comparison.

[Frederick Skelly]

Brian,
Your craftsmanship and design are first rate, as always. There's nothing I can add that hasn't already been said (though I wish there were). I'm glad for you - you've been able to make the jump from hobbyist to Pro while continuing to do things in your own, beautiful and unique way.

Look forward to seeing more.
Fred

[Brian Holcombe]

I feel your pain. I work in QSWO most of the time. Sometimes it's like working with stone. I did a couple small projects using cherry and spanish cedar recently and it felt like I was working with soap by comparison.

Haha, this job has me cherishing any opportunity to work in quartered walnut, cherry or mahogany.

[Brian Holcombe]

Brian,
Your craftsmanship and design are first rate, as always. There's nothing I can add that hasn't already been said (though I wish there were). I'm glad for you - you've been able to make the jump from hobbyist to Pro while continuing to do things in your own, beautiful and unique way.

Look forward to seeing more.
Fred

Thank you, Fred! Very much appreciated!

[William Fretwell]

Delightful kitchen Brian. I notice some of the drawer fronts look veneered? Or is it the drawer front edges that are veneered? Also what finish did you apply to the white oak?
For several years when I worked in the far north I stayed in a place with an $80,000 kitchen. Let me say what fun it is (I do cook) like being on a studio set! I used to joke he built the kitchen for me! Not money wasted at all, you really get so much pleasure from such a kitchen.

[Jeff Ranck]

Wow! Just wow! I second what others have said. I really like the harmony in the overall effect. I also really love the corner shelf. Are the stools yours as well?

[Dave Zellers]

The work is fabulous but more impressive is that you do all this in a tuxedo with perfect hair.

[Malcolm Schweizer]

I would just stare at this all day. Nice work.

384589

[Matthew Hills]

One of the few shops with a vase... that is meant to be there!

Nice photos. I like the harmony of the woodwork in the home.

[Brian Holcombe]

Delightful kitchen Brian. I notice some of the drawer fronts look veneered? Or is it the drawer front edges that are veneered? Also what finish did you apply to the white oak?
For several years when I worked in the far north I stayed in a place with an $80,000 kitchen. Let me say what fun it is (I do cook) like being on a studio set! I used to joke he built the kitchen for me! Not money wasted at all, you really get so much pleasure from such a kitchen.

Thank you William! The drawer fronts are veneered. I made a wrap in 1/2" QSWO around birch ply, then face veneer. I used oil varnish to finish.

I agree completely, I can see where it would be quite enjoyable to use.


Wow! Just wow! I second what others have said. I really like the harmony in the overall effect. I also really love the corner shelf. Are the stools yours as well?

Thanks Jeff! The stools are by BassamFellows, a design team located in PA.


The work is fabulous but more impressive is that you do all this in a tuxedo with perfect hair.

Hah! Thanks Dave.


I would just stare at this all day. Nice work.

384589

Thank you! Very much appreciated and great to hear from you!


One of the few shops with a vase... that is meant to be there!

Nice photos. I like the harmony of the woodwork in the home.

Thank you! Haha, good eye on that. We've moved so much stuff out of the main part of the house to make room for Henry and a few cool things have landed in the workshop.

[Michael Todrin]

Love the walnut and white oak contrast. It is my very favorite. Also, beautiful chamfers. I like how you did the corners first and then the sides.

[Brian Holcombe]

Thank you! Good eye!

[James Pallas]

Ok Brian, I can't figure it out. Why did you make the top half pins proud of the drawer sides? My only guess is "Just so someone would ask." It must be some kind of Brian speed secret.
Jim

[Brian Holcombe]

Ok Brian, I can't figure it out. Why did you make the top half pins proud of the drawer sides? My only guess is "Just so someone would ask." It must be some kind of Brian speed secret.
Jim

I apply an inside chamfer, so that when the client reaches inside the drawer they do not rub their hand along a crisp inside edge but rather an edge that feels smooth because it's chamfered.

The chamfer is easier made through and through with the front of the drawer taller than the sides. The sides are also chamfered but the chamfers terminate. The rear of the drawer is also chamfered but can be made shorter than the sides and it too terminates.

[Bill McDermott]

Brian, how do you cut your ultra-precise chamfers? I always enjoy doing that with a block plane and am fine with minor variations, but amazed by how "right" they look when just winging it. But yours are flawless. Method? Thanks for sharing. Great stuff.

[James Pallas]

I apply an inside chamfer, so that when the client reaches inside the drawer they do not rub their hand along a crisp inside edge but rather an edge that feels smooth because it's chamfered.

The chamfer is easier made through and through with the front of the drawer taller than the sides. The sides are also chamfered but the chamfers terminate. The rear of the drawer is also chamfered but can be made shorter than the sides and it too terminates.

Brian speed secret. Never would've guessed it was just to shoot a chamfer thru. Just goes to show how we can over complicate the simple things in life.��
Jim

[Brian Holcombe]

Brian, how do you cut your ultra-precise chamfers? I always enjoy doing that with a block plane and am fine with minor variations, but amazed by how "right" they look when just winging it. But yours are flawless. Method? Thanks for sharing. Great stuff.

My pleasure! I use a chamfer plane, does the job beautifully.


Brian speed secret. Never would've guessed it was just to shoot a chamfer thru. Just goes to show how we can over complicate the simple things in life.��
Jim

Thanks Jim, absolutely and it also helps to set them apart a bit from production stuff. Nice production drawers will raise front and back and apply a bullnose round over to the whole drawer. It works but I’d rather stand out a bit from that.

[Mike Allen1010]

Pat, the drawers are veneer over birch ply with heavy solid wood edging. More difficult than solid wood drawer fronts but worth it. 10” & 15” drawer fronts would move too much to maintain even gaps otherwise.[/QUOTE]

Brian, this kitchen is absolutely beautiful! I'm sure your clients are thrilled and you should be extremely proud of the achievement!


To me, your choice to use veneer over plywood with solid wood edging for the drawer fronts (versus solid wood) is insightful example of your true commitment to precision in your work. I applaud your high standards. Personally, I have much lower standards of precision and my aversion to plywood would have driven me towards solid wood drawer fronts and larger gaps – which is probably a good reason why I'm not a professional.


I incredibly impressed and reassured by the fact you made the kitchen cabinets by hand– thank you. Your achievement gives me faith this is in fact possible and someday I might be able to do something similar (albeit with much lower standards for design and execution).


Thanks for demonstrating that hand tool woodworking is still possible (if only by someone with your skills) for large-scale, practical applications like kitchen cabinets- Bravo!


Cheers, Mike

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks Mike! Certainly it feels good to have this under my belt, it was a long process and well worth it in terms of experience.

Absolutely, I think you can handle a similar job, you turn out a lot of high quality furniture so it should be no problem.

My pleasure!

[Matt Evans]

Brian,

Fantastic job. Red Oak, hard to make it look anything more than utilitarian, in my opinion, but you managed to make it actually warm and inviting.




To me, your choice to use veneer over plywood with solid wood edging for the drawer fronts (versus solid wood) is insightful example of your true commitment to precision in your work. I applaud your high standards. Personally, I have much lower standards of precision and my aversion to plywood would have driven me towards solid wood drawer fronts and larger gaps – which is probably a good reason why I'm not a professional.


I too have an aversion to plywood most of the time. In cases like this though its not just the size of the seasonal gaps, its the fact that they will inevitably be uneven depending on the season. And uneven gaps just look terrible.

In cases like that I do something similar to what Brian does for that exact reason. Large door panels, drawer fronts, enclosed side panels, etc. Sometimes I'll make my own plywood for larger jobs as well. Gives me a little more freedom and a much thicker face veneer to work with right from the start. (not to mention that I can size the plywood however I like and not have to rely on weird metric equivalents and lots of waste from the standard 4x8 sheet)

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks Matt! It’s definetly nice to make your own plywood.

[Matt Lau]

Hey Bill,

There's actually a Japanese hand plane for that--search for Mentori Kanna.
It's a unitasker...but a really good one. I waited 2 years before getting one, and wouldn't be without one.