planning out my workbench strategy-- or I'm going bench crazy

[Matt Lau]

Hey guys,

Recently, I briefly toyed with the idea of making a Chinese style hand plane...then aborted.
I wanted a jack plane mainly for intermediate flattening of tops...because I planned to do my first serious workbench.

Currently, my workbench is a Blum workbench.
It works pretty good, but isn't all that elegant.

I'd thought of building an Underhill workbench...then a Moravian workbench...then a Nicholson...then a Moroubian (Roubo split top + Moravian)...then a Roubo (thanks Stan).
I have about 27 bf of 8/4 rock maple sitting in my workshop waiting for me to make up my mind.

Last week, while reorganizing my shop, I saw a slab of laminated maple that's been sitting around.
Years ago when i was a struggling new dentist, I bought the slab from a guy who was foreclosing his family house.
His dad had made a 9 foot long, laminated maple outdoor "loveseat" for his mom, and it was a major fixture for about 35 years.
I promised the guy that I'd make something nice out of it.
To fit it inside my beat up Corolla, I had to hack off a few feet of it...the short side ending up in a few banjos that my friend made (one of which I have).

Anyways, I'm thinking of making two workbenches:

A smaller workbench for my bedroom-- using the 60"x16"x1.5" slab and maybe construction lumber for the base.
A gigantic Roubo for my workshop--about 7 foot long, not sure how thick, probably about 20" wide...using the fancy wood, with fancy benchcrafted leg vise.
The Blum workbench will be my portable bench.

So that I don't completely spam the forum with different threads, I'd like to combine things on one thread.

[Matt Lau]

For the smaller workbench, do you guys recommend a particular design for the base?

I was thinking of a trestle base, with the side stretchers mortise and tennoned to the legs.
The long stretchers will have some sort of knock down hardware...not sure if I should mortise and tennon it too?
I'm not sure if I need a vise (have a Record 52 1/2 from a bench like object in my workshop) or if I can just use holdfasts and bench dogs.

I'll probably work on this bench first so that...
#1. I can practice woodworking on a proper workbench instead of on a piece of ply wood on the floor.
#2. I can finally feel at rest regarding that slab
#3. I can clean up the area where the slab is sitting. There's rat droppings there, and the slab is pretty heavy to move around.

Ultimately, I'd like to make some simple furniture (Jefferson book cases) and maybe try learning sashimono to make presents for friends.
After a stressful day's work, I like getting away from noise.

[Matt Lau]

For the big workbench, I'd love to hear from everyone...since a Roubo is a lot of time, money and effort.
I'd briefly considered Grizzly's biggest bench, but the base doesn't look that great...overall, I think that I'd regret the not well utilized space/materials.
Considering that I hope to use it for a very long time, I'd like to have some pride in my craftsmanship...even though it's not practical.

A few questions:
1. Tail vise or no tail vise?
Is it worth it, or does it just get in the way?
2. Split top or Single?
Split top-
pro: more moveable. I have less a chance of snapping my spine when picking it up.
Clamping flexibility due to the split area.
a contrasting tool well/center strip can be total swag. Imagine a 8/4 Walnut center giant stop on a maple top.
con: Less stable. I heard from Stan about the end breaking off one (but couldn't find it online).
Not as rigid.
not sure if it's silly complexity?
Solid top:
pro: Solid. Simple. Stable. Rigid
con: I can picture collapsing under it's weight when I try to flip it for surfacing or clamping the glueup.
No center well. Harder to move.
3. Vise
I'm thinking of a Benchcrafted leg vise. However, my workshop isn't humidity controlled. Would it rust? Should I go wood instead?
I talked with Stan, and he uses a German metal screw.
Anyways, I'd love your thoughts....should I do two leg vises? Sliding Deadman?
4. How thick?
Benchcrafted does a 3.5" workbench for about $2700. It's spendy, but the only no compromise workbench that I can see...with only one downside...there's no chance of breaking it down.
5. Base joinery:
Drawbored mortise and tenon? Knockdown hardware? Wedges and tusk tennons? Would you guys mind walking me through the pros and cons?
I hear that slanted legs look cool, but aren't as stable as straight.

As you can see, I can easily overcomplicate things.

I plan to get a really good vacuum for my church, and maybe splurge on some Benchcrafted moxon vise hardware to see why Benchcrafted is so highly regarded.

[David Bassett]

For the smaller workbench, do you guys recommend a particular design for the base? ....

Do you have Christopher Schwarz's workbench books? He did two, with whatever PopWood calls their book publishing wing, (not LAP). In one, he discusses how to make trade offs and how to evaluate workbench designs. It seems like deciding what you want to do and matching a bench design's strengths to those tasks is where you need to focus.

As far as the trestle table base, it seems like you lose the ability to clamp to the bench's face to easily work edges of boards. (Think Nicholson's apron or Roubo's big flush leg plus deadman as examples of this.)

[Barney Markunas]

I'd say absolutely go for a tail vise. I use mine frequently.
I've never worked on a split top so I cannot really offer an informed comment on the pros/cons. If you opt for a big solid top, just enlist the help of a friend the few times you need to fool with flipping it or moving it. In my experience the pros of a beefy top outweigh the cons.
Do you really want to have a bench in your bedroom? I expect you've given that some thought but it seems an odd choice to me. I would have significant housekeeping issues and feel confident that my tools would always be in the wrong place if I split my time between two benches. It doesn't take much imagination to guess what my wife's take on a bedroom workbench would be.
Don't overthink this; make a decision and get busy building. If after some time you decide you made some less than ideal choices, modify what you've made or start up on a new bench which will almost certainly be easier to build because you'll be working from a nice big bench rather than your portable Blum.

[Christopher Charles]

Hi Matt,

I went round and round and round too. You can read the saga here:

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?169730-Is-the-Klausz-Frid-Scand-Bench-Dead

Short version: the Roubo is fantastic and is now just in the background. Meaning I don't think about it, I just use it. Perhaps the only thing I'd do differently would be to put a LN tailvise on rather than the wagon vise, only b/c I often do smallish work. I wouldn't want to be without one or the other. If starting from scratch, i'd also probably have used the crisscross, but I do highly recommend Jim's chain vise for the leg vise.

Good luck!

[Matt Lau]

Thanks for the tips.

I have a weird situation...technically I'm a Millenial living with my parents...but not really.

I have a workshop, it's on a seperate property that I've rented to tenants. It's in a 1.5 car garage that I've retained as my workshop.
On average, I get maybe 1 afternoon a month to go there. I have slowly accumulated some power tools: drillpress, bandsaw, sawstop, portable planer, routers.
Since there's no humidity control, tools left out will rust badly...and there's my marijuana smoking neighbors and rats.

Additionally, I live with my parents in my own room. This is where I go when I'm not at the office obsessing over things.
It's my haven away from the loud craziness of the TV or my dad talking really loudly (we're Cantonese. Everything is loud).
I figure that unplugging from electronic devices (aside from my trusty radio) and making something nice is much better than doing drugs, booze, or exotic ladies.
Working on a floorbench has been a bit tough, since I'm not as young as I used to be...thicknessing/planing wood is particularly tough.

With my dental practice, it's extremely stressful sometimes since ultimately I'm the boss.
Anything happens...it's me: HR, planning finances, marketing, quality control, strategic choosing of a location, screwy patients trying to game us, IT, and headhunting.
Thankfully, I have friends, very supportive parents, and God.

If/When I get married, I'll probably notify my tenants and move over to where my workshop is.
In the meantime, my folks tell me to keep it rented out to cover the mortgage...save for retirement/investments...and keep a low overhead lifestyle.

However, in the meantime, I'm thinking of making a "smallish" workbench to keep myself occupied (and possibly sane).

[James Pallas]

Matt, You need a vacation. Your RAM is full needs a reboot.:)
Jim

[Todd Zucker]

Matt:
I tend to over-complicate things as well but agree with Barney. Make a choice, build it and enjoy, and change things up on the next bench. Build one bench at a time so that you can actually get one of them done.

I am not an authority on benches, having built exactly one. I bought plans for the Benchcrafted Roubo, but I did a scaled down version. It was a good challenge to build, but if you change the plans it definitely can lead to complications in dimensions.

Mine is 6 feet long, but I would go full length from the plans if I had to do it again.

Thickness of my top is slightly less than 2 inches with a 4-inch apron on the front. It has worked fine, and the bench has never budged, even though it is sitting on those things you use for moving couches. Next time, I might make a thicker top, as the thin top/front apron combination can interfere with clamping things to the bench.

If you are doing the Benchcrafted leg vise, you do need to think about the thickness of the top before you build the base. Once you finish the bench and install the leg vise hardware (i.e., drill the hole for the screw at the right height), I don't think you can count on simply making the legs a few inches shorter if you later decide to make a thicker top, so if you decide to change to a thicker top at that point you either start a new base from scratch or end up with a top that is too high off the floor.

My top is attached with metal L brackets and works fine, and if I decide to remove the top for some reason I can do that.

Base is knockdown hardware. It's solid and works fine and was reasonably easy to get done.

For me, the leg vise is great, and the tail vise is useful as well. I have no experience with other vises. I don't think you need two leg vises.

My bench is in a humid garage. I got the shiny Benchcrafted version and it does not rust, but I do wipe it with oil from time to time. The bolts holding the knobs onto the handle have rusted a little, but not enough to worry about.

I did the split top version so I could theoretically run both halves through the planer. But, I don't use the insert as a "stop" for planing or sawing (it's too long for my preference), and I haven't used the space in between the halves it for clamping. I just use the insert as a temporary tool holder, for saws, etc. It works good for that purpose, although the tools in the middle of the bench sometimes get in the way and a rear tool well might be preferable. I am thinking about making a solid maple insert so that I can have the equivalent of a solid bench.

If you build the top first and put it on saw horses, you will have a decent temporary bench to use while you build the base.

[brian zawatsky]

I just completed a bench build a few months ago, and any excuse I can get to drop a photo of it is a good excuse, as far as I'm concerned. Lol!

383961

I built this for about 1,300 bucks altogether, but I also work at a commercial cabinet shop so the plywood for the cabinet case was free, as well as the cherry veneer (cut-offs) and the poplar for the drawer sides (more cut-offs). I paid wholesale cost for the drawer slides as well. The 2 vises were the biggest expense (stumbled on the Emmert at an estate sale and man oh man its awesome - if you can get one reasonably priced DO IT!), coming in around 750 bucks. The cherry for the 4" thick top came from a craigslist score, and the base is 16/4 poplar. The base was built with drawbored mortise & tenon joints. The top of the legs have 3" long tenons that are housed in the benchtop, and it was left loose so that it can be moved if necessary. So far I haven't found anything that I don't like about it. I'd be happy to share any details you might want to know about, or whatever you need.

I've never been really crazy about leg vises, and I was going to go with a twin-screw face vise before I found the Emmert. The tail vise is from Lie-Nielsen and I love it so far. It wasn't too bad to install either.

[Jake Hillestad]

Consider making a single bench before planning the other two..... I'd start with the smaller bench. Use it until you know you need a larger, permanent one. I'd not waste my time on a "portable bench".

My thoughts, make it easy on yourself. Make it out of something you won't give yourself an aneurysm over if and when you mess up. To my way of thinking this screams Nicholson ala Mike Siemsen. No need to worry about vises, hold fasts and a few shop made appliances and you're good to go.

When you outgrow it and move onto "The Bench" you got a heck of a sharpening or dedicated joinery bench. Plus it helps to have a bench when making a bench.

If/When you must have a Roubo: Yes tail vise, no split top, yes leg vise, yes benchcrafted, yes sliding deadman, no 2 leg vises, 3 1/2"+ thick, no knockdown hardware, yes drawbored mortise and tenon, no splayed legs


Now go have a beer and relax.

[Joe A Faulkner]

I'd build the small bench first and go vise-less on it. Maybe something in the Mike Siemsen line (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yvhn-PAfEW4). Round dog holes to fit a couple of holdfasts, and few battens will serve you pretty well. You can always use clamps and augment with a Lee Valley Wonder pup: http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=31129&cat=1,41637

Or if you want it to be more portable, then build two end frames like this (draw bore the mortise and tenon rails), and use wedged tusk tenons for bottom stretchers and attach the top with a couple of lag bolts from below. I'd make the legs flush with the edge of the bench top.

If you can source some 12/4 or 8/4 poplar, I'd use that for the frame rather than construction lumber from the borg. Poplar is easy to work, but not as expensive as maple and doesn't have the aroma that construction lumber has.

[Brian Holcombe]

When I build another workbench, if I don’t simply replace the top on mine, it will be a long Roubo, length is great for workbenches. You are a new homeowner, you will use the bench for home related projects. Make it long, over 8’ is good. Given the space I would make one at 9’ long without regret.

[Andrew Seemann]

When you get down to it, a workbench really only needs to do two things: make it easier and safer to do work.

Easier as in put the work at a comfortable height for you to work at and in a position convenient for the operations needed (FYI, the floor is going to get even further away the older you get).

Safer because it typically holds and stabilizes the work to allow you to go at the work with the force of mallets, hammers, saws, chisels, routers, and other sharp edges amplified by lever or motor.



What kind of bench(es) will work for you will depend they type of work you like to do, the scale of the work you do, the skills you have to complete the bench, and the space you have for the bench(es). Part of the reason for more than one bench is that a bench style that works really well for one thing may be quite cumbersome for another, the limitations here being how much room you have for how many benches.

The type of work will drive the vises, dogs, hold-downs, and stops you choose or not choose. For example, do you do lots of dovetailing or other complex joinery? A shoulder or similar vise that allows you to clamp the work at adjustable heights while not interfering with the length of the work will help. Do you like to take your aggressions out by planing rough timber into boards, then a long bench with a planing stop might be the thing.

The scale of the work is important as well. If you only make birdhouses or jewelry boxes, a huge bench with giant vises may be overkill and one designed for constant planing may be too low. If you build armoires and entertainment centers, a small cabinet makers bench may frustrate you.

Your skill set will also determine what you can actually construct. Some benches are easier to construct than others. Some take a fair amount of hand tool or advanced power tool skill and others less so. Only you will know the answer here.


One thing to keep in mind is that, for whatever reason, benches seem to go in and out of style. It seems to be driven to some extent by who the "in" woodworkers are and what kind of bench they use. Scandinavian benches were popular, then English, then French, then hybrid modern, etc. Remember that what is in style or not has no bearing on how useful the bench is. It will affect how often it appears in shiny, seductive pictures in glossy magazines and Pinterst boards. Don't be swayed for or against a certain bench because XXXX said that YYYY is the greatest bench in the world. It may be for them, but it may not be for you.

Also, as a Millennial, you are just at the beginning of your bench building career. Unlike your someday wife, you are not bound to your bench till death do you part. I'm a generation ahead of you, and I am on my second "lifelong bench" and every once in a while I see a third one in my future. When I built my second one, my skills were much better than they were 20 years earlier and it turned out much better (imagine that). Any adequate bench you build now and maybe augment or replace someday will serve you better than the perfect one you never build.

[Matt Lau]

I just completed a bench build a few months ago, and any excuse I can get to drop a photo of it is a good excuse, as far as I'm concerned. Lol!

383961

I built this for about 1,300 bucks altogether, but I also work at a commercial cabinet shop so the plywood for the cabinet case was free, as well as the cherry veneer (cut-offs) and the poplar for the drawer sides (more cut-offs). I paid wholesale cost for the drawer slides as well. The 2 vises were the biggest expense (stumbled on the Emmert at an estate sale and man oh man its awesome - if you can get one reasonably priced DO IT!), coming in around 750 bucks. The cherry for the 4" thick top came from a craigslist score, and the base is 16/4 poplar. The base was built with drawbored mortise & tenon joints. The top of the legs have 3" long tenons that are housed in the benchtop, and it was left loose so that it can be moved if necessary. So far I haven't found anything that I don't like about it. I'd be happy to share any details you might want to know about, or whatever you need.

I've never been really crazy about leg vises, and I was going to go with a twin-screw face vise before I found the Emmert. The tail vise is from Lie-Nielsen and I love it so far. It wasn't too bad to install either.



That...is a truly beautiful workbench. What do you build?

As for the workbench...I can only hope for something as nice.

[Matt Lau]

When I build another workbench, if I don’t simply replace the top on mine, it will be a long Roubo, length is great for workbenches. You are a new homeowner, you will use the bench for home related projects. Make it long, over 8’ is good. Given the space I would make one at 9’ long without regret.


I thought your top was solid?

My length limitation of 7 foot long is due to my car. The longest lumber that can comfortably fit in a Honda Fit is about 7 feet.
8 feet lumber can fit--but uncomfortably wedges between the front windshield and the back trunk door...even a 2x6 Home depot board made me wary of shattering my windshield.

I guess that I'll focus on bench 1 using what I have...as for a bedroom bench, I may find an old desk from Craigslist and add a sacrificial top. I use a vise about 2x a year...mainly, I like holdfasts. Occassionally, I'll use a versa vise holdfasted to my blum workbench.

Oh, and FWIW, if there are any lurkers that don't have space or a workbench, I can recommend a few solutions that've worked for me:
1. Blum Benchpony- It's rock solid for it's size, quite capable, and well made.
Only downside is that it's plywood, pipe clamps are a pain, and a QR vise would be much nicer to use.
Much stiffer than any Sjoberg I've seen.
2. Plywood with some 2x4 drilled to it as stops laid over a picnic table/brick abutment.
Only downside is that you can't use hondfasts. Ergonomics might not be great. However, it's rock solid. The structure is pretty much bolted to the ground, and likely over 300 lb in mass. It won't move.

I haven't bolted anything to walls, but I'll probably get over it.

[Matt Lau]

In terms of desk, I see something like this: https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/fuo/d/reduced-price-ikea-office/6560395288.html

I'm tempted to buy the two butcher block desks, double up on the tops, and use the extra set of leg hardware on another project.
With the desks, I won't feel bad about damaging some midcentury furniture. Also, I can cut it down to size without feeling guilty.

[Matt Lau]

Nevermind. The butcher block desks are sold.

[Brian Holcombe]

Matt, if you're working on a tight budget, just buy and use construction timber, like doug fir. Build a decent bench learn what you like and dont like, build another one later. Construction materials are fine.

Set it in the place it will stay for a long while, let it acclimatize, then work process it in phases.

If you can't get the right stuff in your car, have them deliver. Most local places will deliver.

[brian zawatsky]

That...is a truly beautiful workbench. What do you build?

As for the workbench...I can only hope for something as nice.

Thanks Matt. I had been planning it in my head and acquiring parts as I came across deals for several years before I finally had the opportunity to build it. I mainly build furniture, cabinets, & such. I really wanted to build it heavy, as I had been working on an overly light Craigslist-found bench with a 2" thick top before building this one. The difference is night and day. Whatever you do, build it stout - you will be happy you did the first time you hand plane a workpiece on it.

Also, don't let the Honda Fit be your limitation; it's pretty cheap to rent a pickup truck or even a van for an afternoon, and can be well worth it if you come across something that warrants it. If necessary, you could build a plenty solid base using wedged tenons which allows you to knock it down if/when you need to move it. It is not a hard joint to pull off with hand tools, and probably even easier if you expend electrons to get there. I used them for the first time to join the ends of a trestle base on a dining table I completed a year or so ago and was surprised how solid of a joint it made. Here's a close up of the joint384009

[Matt Lau]

Brian,

I don't know if I can say that I'm on a tight budget....
The first two years of my dental practice, when I wasn't paying myself...yes.
The last year and future years...no.

I figure that I can discipline, save, buy things periodically, and avoid cutting corners.
I don't mind spending a bit for a better longterm outcome...but also realize that this is just a hobby for me.
Rebuilding a bench due to cutting corners on materials would be silly.
Time is probably the most important thing now.

Part of this thread is for me to figure out what the bounds of "Makes sense" applies, since I lack common sense.

Buying Maple, having it shipped, sure! Buying a giant Felder or Hammer jointer/planer--I wish!


I'll probably need to calculate between the cost of time/materials, vs bragging rights/having the bench *exactly* as I want.

[Brandon Speaks]

I really wanted a scandanavian style bench, after a bit of contemplation though I decided I had neither the time, resources, or skill to build what I wanted so I build a nicholson (Mike Siemsen style one) with about 6 hours of time and $100 invested. No vice, although I did build a moxon to sit on top and get some hold fasts. I will eventually build a scandi bench and then likely shorten the nicholson bench a bit and use it more as a dedicated planing bench. For now though I have not found any limitations caused by it that have been a problem. Who knows I many not even want to ever change.

[Jim Koepke]

a QR vise would be much nicer to use.
Much stiffer than any Sjoberg I've seen.

Funny, over the years my appreciation for the simplicity and versatility of the Sjoberg vises has grown.

At one time a wagon vise seemed like a good choice, until trying to figure out how to hold things across the end of the bench for various operations. Same with a Scandi type tail vise.

The other feature to my liking is being able to quickly remove either vise for operations where a vise is just in the way.

One of these not only helps with vise racking, it helps to limit the vise's pressure when working thin pieces:

384069

The leaves are 1/8", 1/4", 1/2" & 1" there are also a couple of piece cut to 1" X 2" and a 1/16" spacer to get more sizes.

Different strokes for different folks.

jtk

[glenn bradley]

The problem with asking for specific advise on a bench is that the love or hate we have for various features is directly proportional to the way we use that feature (or angst over the lack of it). Vise racking and the narrow span of the guide rods/screw(s) finally drove me to twin screws at the face and end positions. Never been happier. I do have a little parrot vise that I clamp in the twin screw for odd angled stuff. Enjoy the journey and don't stress out trying to make a lifelong decision based on one bench or vise.

[Michael Mules]

A few questions:
1. Tail vise or no tail vise?

2. Split top or Single?

3. Vise

4. How thick?

5. Base joinery:



Hi Matt, I built my workbench just on 4 years ago. If you like I'll talk you through the reasons behind each decision, and how those decisions are travelling after 4 years of use. I'm a self-taught woodworker going on 9 years now, who likes to dabble in all sorts of different aspects of woodwork, mostly with hand-tools; so the bench has been put to varied uses. Currently I'm using it to build a 2.5m long dining table.

1. Tail Vise. I built a wooden, L-shaped tail vise, using a cheap metal vise screw. Best Decision Ever. I have not found a reason to regret it. The top is 1.9m long; with the vise extended I can support work from underneath up to 2.5m long. the standard tail vise task of clamping between dogs is extremely useful, not just for planing, but for light carving, stabilising for chisel work, holding the drop saw in place and lots of other handy tasks. One thing I have found really useful is having a vise that is open on 3 sides - particularly when holding oddly shaped work, or holding onto my turning chuck and having a bowl I am carving/dremelling hanging out the side for easy access.

2. Split top. I started out building a single top, then when I realised I didn't have enough long clamps, changed it to a split top. I haven't regretted it. The cons were in the added complexity of the build - getting things coplanar, flattening tops and undersides, attaching an endpiece for the L-vise. No cons so far in the use, only pros. On the back piece I put a metal woodworker's vice as the split top afforded me the ability to be able to cut either side of the jaws. I have added flexibility in clamping (very handy), the centre till lifts up to be a back-board/planing stop (also surprisingly handy). No problems with rigidity/flexing/movement - but both pieces are securely fastened to an over-engineered base, and joined together with an endpiece/breadboard.

3. Vise Choice. I have 3 vises - an L-shaped tail vise, a leg vise as a face vise and a metal woodworking vise on the opposite rear end. twin dog holes in the back vise's chop allows for holding curved work (opposite holes in the bench top). The leg vise I made myself using another cheap vise screw, with the bottom support made from some all-thread and a foot wheel (because bending down to move a pin is so 20th Century). $40 AUD all-up for a rock-solid, easy to use, versatile vise. I had never used one before, but have found a leg vise to be a very, very good addition to the bench - advantages are the depth of the screw; I can put even larger items in them, provided they stay to one side; it has an insane opening width; it has exceptional holding power compared to a metal woodworking vise. If I build another bench, I might replace the metal vise with a patternmaker's vise, but the other two vises would be the same. I haven't used a twin-screw vise, but am yet to find the necessity for it in my work - every problem it solves, I have been able to with my current setup (albeit not always as easily as it would have allowed)

4. How thick? About 85mm (3 1/3 inches). I built it out of 90x45mm construction pine, which limited my thickness. I wouldn't want thinner. It's rock-solid at this thickness.

5. Base Joinery. Drawbored Mortise and Tenon. It's immovable, interlocked and not hard to do.

Other considerations - I made provision (but ploughing a groove in the underside of the top) for later installation of a deadman, but haven't had the need. I have just tended to drill holes in the leg for the holdfasts to go into if the wood is long enough to need extra support. Twice now I have regretted not having a front apron (or at least a lip) to clamp against, but it was a minor irritation that was quickly worked around. Having the legs in line with the top, though, has been really handy.

And a couple of pictures, to give you an idea what it looks like.
384252

384253

But ultimately, it is your bench for your uses. Make it to please you and meet your needs, not to please us and meet ours!

[brian zawatsky]

Hi Matt, I built my workbench just on 4 years ago. If you like I'll talk you through the reasons behind each decision, and how those decisions are travelling after 4 years of use. I'm a self-taught woodworker going on 9 years now, who likes to dabble in all sorts of different aspects of woodwork, mostly with hand-tools; so the bench has been put to varied uses. Currently I'm using it to build a 2.5m long dining table.

1. Tail Vise. I built a wooden, L-shaped tail vise, using a cheap metal vise screw. Best Decision Ever. I have not found a reason to regret it. The top is 1.9m long; with the vise extended I can support work from underneath up to 2.5m long. the standard tail vise task of clamping between dogs is extremely useful, not just for planing, but for light carving, stabilising for chisel work, holding the drop saw in place and lots of other handy tasks. One thing I have found really useful is having a vise that is open on 3 sides - particularly when holding oddly shaped work, or holding onto my turning chuck and having a bowl I am carving/dremelling hanging out the side for easy access.

2. Split top. I started out building a single top, then when I realised I didn't have enough long clamps, changed it to a split top. I haven't regretted it. The cons were in the added complexity of the build - getting things coplanar, flattening tops and undersides, attaching an endpiece for the L-vise. No cons so far in the use, only pros. On the back piece I put a metal woodworker's vice as the split top afforded me the ability to be able to cut either side of the jaws. I have added flexibility in clamping (very handy), the centre till lifts up to be a back-board/planing stop (also surprisingly handy). No problems with rigidity/flexing/movement - but both pieces are securely fastened to an over-engineered base, and joined together with an endpiece/breadboard.

3. Vise Choice. I have 3 vises - an L-shaped tail vise, a leg vise as a face vise and a metal woodworking vise on the opposite rear end. twin dog holes in the back vise's chop allows for holding curved work (opposite holes in the bench top). The leg vise I made myself using another cheap vise screw, with the bottom support made from some all-thread and a foot wheel (because bending down to move a pin is so 20th Century). $40 AUD all-up for a rock-solid, easy to use, versatile vise. I had never used one before, but have found a leg vise to be a very, very good addition to the bench - advantages are the depth of the screw; I can put even larger items in them, provided they stay to one side; it has an insane opening width; it has exceptional holding power compared to a metal woodworking vise. If I build another bench, I might replace the metal vise with a patternmaker's vise, but the other two vises would be the same. I haven't used a twin-screw vise, but am yet to find the necessity for it in my work - every problem it solves, I have been able to with my current setup (albeit not always as easily as it would have allowed)

4. How thick? About 85mm (3 1/3 inches). I built it out of 90x45mm construction pine, which limited my thickness. I wouldn't want thinner. It's rock-solid at this thickness.

5. Base Joinery. Drawbored Mortise and Tenon. It's immovable, interlocked and not hard to do.

Other considerations - I made provision (but ploughing a groove in the underside of the top) for later installation of a deadman, but haven't had the need. I have just tended to drill holes in the leg for the holdfasts to go into if the wood is long enough to need extra support. Twice now I have regretted not having a front apron (or at least a lip) to clamp against, but it was a minor irritation that was quickly worked around. Having the legs in line with the top, though, has been really handy.

And a couple of pictures, to give you an idea what it looks like.
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But ultimately, it is your bench for your uses. Make it to please you and meet your needs, not to please us and meet ours!

Nice bench, Michael. Are you left handed, or did you build it opposite of convention by default since you guys are upside down? :D

[Michael Mules]

Yes, left handed. As for upside down, I can't help it if the northern hemisphere doesn't know the correct way up to hold a map!

[Matt Lau]

Hey Glenn,

Good comment there.

I'm posting this silly thread because I know that I don't have a lot of woodworking experience. I figure that pretty much everyone on the neander forum has years or decades of seriously working wood and their own likes and dislikes...sorta like Paul Sellers with his quasi nicholsen, or Tage Fride with his Scandi Bench.

While I know that opinions are subjective...they are informed.