Wondering about my block plane setup

[Tony Wilkins]

My one current block plane is a Lie Nielsen 102 - the small one with the fixed mouth. I like it but the mouth is very tight. I’ve been wondering for a while whether getting an adjustable mouth one would be useful enough for me.

thoughts?

[Frederick Skelly]

I've got the same plane and same concerns with it Tony. I find that if I keep the 102 very sharp, the fixed mouth works well enough to justify keeping it. (I really love its size.) But I keep eyeballing an LV DX60 adjustable block (http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=61963&cat=1,41182,48942,61963)....

Should be interesting to hear others' experiences here.

[Jim Koepke]

For me the adjustable mouth works best when rounding over edges or faring curves.

My adjustable mouth planes are all #60 or #65 type planes.

My Stanley #102 doesn't get a whole lot of work.

jtk

[Frank Martin]

I have the 102, 103 and the Veritas planes. I use the 102 / 103 most often, but the larger adjustable mouth planes have their place too. I definitely like having both kinds. In fact, I am guilty of having too many block planes.

[david beck]

In fact, I am guilty of having too many block planes
Oh my..You can have too many?

[john zulu]

I have the 102 from LN to the DX60....... and others.

I use the 102 for trimming cuts as it excels at it and it's small body. I would suggest another low angle block plane as it is more useful for smaller stock. I would recommend the LV low angle block plane
partly due to the tooth blade and the accessories that comes with it.

That said. My primary plane is now a Luban Low Angle block plane. The quality is very close to a LV.
For the Luban the body is made of CR40 which is more resistant to rust. And Malaysia is more humid.

I also own the DX 60 plane. But it is more of a show piece nowadays. Does it do better than the other block planes? Ergonomically yes. But the cuts are still the same.

One can collect too many planes. Just aim what u need it for. From low angle to std angle and etc.

[Ted Phillips]

I have several block planes as well. My last purchase was a Veritas L.A. block plane, which I purchased with the chamfer guide - this plane is now a dedicated chamfer shooter. My main block plane is a LN Rabbet Block Plane - which is a fantastic tool for trimming work. It can get right up into the nooks and crannies of edges. I still lust after the LN Skew Block Plane (which is based on the Stanley 140) - it looks to be a real workhorse with the bronze body...

So many planes, so little time...

TedP

[Frederick Skelly]

My main block plane is a LN Rabbet Block Plane - which is a fantastic tool for trimming work. It can get right up into the nooks and crannies of edges.

I have that one and like it too Ted. (Not everyone does, but it works well for what I do. :))

[Osvaldo Cristo]

My one current block plane is a Lie Nielsen 102 - the small one with the fixed mouth. I like it but the mouth is very tight. I’ve been wondering for a while whether getting an adjustable mouth one would be useful enough for me.

thoughts?

I was at a dilema deciding what block plane model to go... I went to Lie Nilsen 60 1/2 after to consider all variables that occurred me. I am plenty satisfied. Really.

I do not have experiences with other LN block plane models as my other block plane is a Stanley USD 10 model... BTW after appropriately sharp the blade, it is not so bad!

All the best.

[Derek Cohen]

For those interested, I wrote a comparison of these planes as part of a review of the Veritas NX/DX60 ..

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/VeritasPremiumBlockPlane_html_67db55fa.jpg

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReviews/VeritasPremiumBlockPlane.html

I like the LN 60 1/2 in the hand. Very comfortable. However, it is not easy to adjust the blade, which one becomes aware of after using a NX/DX, which are superior for their ergonomics and blades. I also like the LN #103, and like its larger sibling, I've had these block planes since forever. The #103 comes with a large mouth, and I closed this up with brass shim stock.

Tony, if you find the mouth on the #102 too tight, you can file it open a snitch. Lay blade tape across the mouth where you do not wish to file, and file to the edge of the tape.

All these block planes are wonderful users. It is possible to point out preferences, but drawing distinctions between them is analytical rather than practical. I'd be happy to use any one, and have it as the only one.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[steven c newman]

Too many block planes??? Nah...just got a second low angle one the other day..all cleaned up and sharpened, now..
383877383878
Second one? Well..
383879
Here is the first one...along with it's original box.
383880383881
Goes with the 8 other block planes I have...

[lowell holmes]

I agree with Derek, I have filed the blade slots in hand planes when required. I wasn't smart enough to use tape to mark the new slot,
but I will next time.:)

[Rob Luter]

I wish my LN #102 had a tighter mouth. I was surprised how open it was when I got it, so much so that I called LN and asked them about it. That said, it works very well for what I use it for (mostly trimming, chamfering, etc.) It still peels up a very fine shaving. My other three blocks (LN #60 1/2, Stanley #18, Stanley #65) are all adjustable mouth.

[Derek Cohen]

I wish my LN #102 had a tighter mouth...

Rob, I used brass shim stock on my #103. Add layers until you get the mouth size you want. A little epoxy to hold in place ...

https://s19.postimg.cc/hiul3aqn7/LN103-2a_zpsykbbtf0z.jpg

https://s19.postimg.cc/b6fftgnkz/LN103-3a_zpsg9fhr6hf.jpg

https://s19.postimg.cc/3nwaktw83/LN103-1a_zpsuxrwlahs.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

[john zulu]

Rob, I used brass shim stock on my #103. Add layers until you get the mouth size you want. A little epoxy to hold in place ...

https://s19.postimg.cc/hiul3aqn7/LN103-2a_zpsykbbtf0z.jpg

https://s19.postimg.cc/b6fftgnkz/LN103-3a_zpsg9fhr6hf.jpg

https://s19.postimg.cc/3nwaktw83/LN103-1a_zpsuxrwlahs.jpg

Regards from Perth

Derek

Why are there pencil marks at the sole? Some new technique?

[Jeff Ranck]

Why are there pencil marks at the sole? Some new technique?

Naw, that is the use of graphite as a lubricant to make the sole slide easier rather than wax or oil. :)

[Derek Cohen]

I must admit that I had not noticed it, and cannot recall why it is there. Probably not deliberate. The only time I would scribble on a sole is when lapping it, and this #103 did not need lapping. My first thought was that they were scratches, which is possible, since the plane has a long history of use (the first new plane I ever purchased, about 20 years ago).

Regards from Perth

Derek

[john zulu]

Naw, that is the use of graphite as a lubricant to make the sole slide easier rather than wax or oil. :)

Hahaha. I can see the application for graphite.

[john zulu]

I must admit that I had not noticed it, and cannot recall why it is there. Probably not deliberate. The only time I would scribble on a sole is when lapping it, and this #103 did not need lapping. My first thought was that they were scratches, which is possible, since the plane has a long history of use (the first new plane I ever purchased, about 20 years ago).

Regards from Perth

Derek

Thanks Derek for the reply. Yeah. All my good planes have scratches at the sole and it can bug me quite a bit.

[Bill Houghton]

Or, if what you need is a plane for coarse work, you could get, say, a Stanley 220.

[Jim Koepke]

Hahaha. I can see the application for graphite.

Great when working with ebony.

jtk

[john zulu]

Great when working with ebony.

jtk

Good point! Thanks!