Repairing a cabinet base

[John Pariseau]

I bought a used 6-section sectional barrister bookcase that needs a little bit of rehab. There are two things wrong with it:

The open leg base broke apart
The doors are kind of tight in the frames when you try to open/close them (paste wax for lubrication?)

This is not an antique, and I did not pay much for the unit. I don't have the make/model on hand, but I'd guess it was manufactured no earlier than the 90's.

Anyhow, I need to repair the base and I'm a bit confused. The base was assembled with triangle blocks glued and stapled, but the tenons were *not* glued in. Is there a reason for this? When I reassemble it, I'm planning on gluing them in unless there's a reason not to. Any thoughts?

Thanks!

383812

[Jim Becker]

Yes, glue the tenons and when you create new corner blocks, be sure that you have them setup so that grain directions match the aprons...the end grain should be on the diagonal that's in "free air".

[Wayne Lomman]

Exactly what Jim said. Cheers

[John Pariseau]

Yes, glue the tenons and when you create new corner blocks, be sure that you have them setup so that grain directions match the aprons...the end grain should be on the diagonal that's in "free air".
So - the grain should be horizontal?

[glenn bradley]

So - the grain should be horizontal?

Preferably. You want the block to expand and contract the same direction as the stretcher. The reason for the lack of glue is the same reason you find kitchen cabinet brad-nailed to the wall; quick and dirty, doing the least amount of work that will get the product deemed complete. Your repair will be better than new.

As to your door fix, this will depend on where it is binding. Is it the width? Is it the thickness? Is it the groove that the door slides on?

[Peter Christensen]

I would chip the corner blocks off and toss them. Glue the tenons and then add corner blocks just like those on a dining chair.

[John Pariseau]

So a final update...

After repairing the base, I found that all of the doors were sticking/binding. I inspected each section and did two things:

1) sanded the metal runners at the top - though I don't think the cabinet sides were binding on the top rails, it seemed prudent to remove any rust

2) oiled the cabinet sides and top rails with a furniture oil

I don't have any furniture wax (beeswax?) at the moment, but when the doors start to bind again I'll be sure to get and apply some as I don't think the oil was a good long-term solution.

[John Pariseau]

Oh, and the cabinet had been in storage for several months after repairing the base, I just recently set it up as a specialized tool storage unit.

[Charlie Velasquez]

Not sure of the doors construction, but I will guess in SE Michigan the door is more likely to stick in Jul/August than January. I wouldn't tackle it till summer to ensure I had remedied the entire problem.

[Lee Schierer]

I don't have any furniture wax (beeswax?) at the moment, but when the doors start to bind again I'll be sure to get and apply some as I don't think the oil was a good long-term solution.

I would recommend Johnson paste wax. Beeswax isn't as slippery.