Danish oil question

[Thomas Wilson80]

Just finished a bowl with Watco DO and I guess I didn't wipe it off good enough because now it is a bit gummy inside the bottom. Can I use mineral spirits to clean it up or would it be better to let it fully cure and resand?

thanks,
tom

[Chris A Lawrence]

I would apply another coat and wipe it off good. The solvent in it should redissolve the soft stuff.

[Prashun Patel]

Yes you can use mineral spirits as you suspect.

[robert baccus]

You can use any solvent but don't expect results. Hardening oils crosslink with oxygen, they do not merely "dry" like solvent based finishes. Good luck.

[Leo Van Der Loo]

Watco = Minwax

they use 75% of volatiles + some BLO,in their finishes, the speed of the BLO polymerization is pretty slow, especially at cooler temps, I do think you can remove the Danish Oil with mineral spirits.

If your finish is old, that would be a good reason for the problem you have, also if it is cold where you have the finish and or turning.

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[John K Jordan]

Just finished a bowl with Watco DO and I guess I didn't wipe it off good enough because now it is a bit gummy inside the bottom. Can I use mineral spirits to clean it up or would it be better to let it fully cure and resand?


Tom, I cleaned up one for someone else with with mineral spirits. I had given her some oil and instructions but she forgot to wipe it off well. She brought it back after a long time (weeks? months? can't remember) and it was still gummy and sticky but cleaned up nicely. I may have used some fine steel wool on it along with or after the mineral spirits but can't remember that either, it was a couple of years ago.

It is important, I think, to wipe off the each coat completely - I use paper shop towels. I put the first coat on liberally until it won't take any more oil, let sit for an hour or so, then wipe off completely. I'll check it a few hours later and if any oil bleeds out of the pores I wipe that off two. I let the first coat dry/cure for at least two days then wet sand any spots I'm unhappy with using oil and 600 grit paper, wipe off all oil completely and let dry/cure for at least a day. I might go over the surface with 0000 steel wool if I think it needs it. I apply further coats, let sit for 20 minutes or so, wipe off completely, then wait at least overnight before repeating. I might use 6 coats or more. I usually don't buff to a gloss but prefer the softer look of just the oil.

JKJ

[Sam Murdoch]

Watco = Minwax

they use 75% of volatiles + some BLO,in their finishes, the speed of the BLO polymerization is pretty slow, especially at cooler temps, I do think you can remove the Danish Oil with mineral spirits.

If your finish is old, that would be a good reason for the problem you have, also if it is cold where you have the finish and or turning.



Old and/or cold are definitely factors to consider - especially OLD. A partially filled can of Watco from 2 or 3 years ago is pretty worthless - will never dry properly.

[John K Jordan]

...A partially filled can of Watco from 2 or 3 years ago is pretty worthless - will never dry properly.

Might depend on how it is stored. I fill my partially emptied cans of finishes with nitrogen to displace the air. I don't write dates but they seem to last a long time and don't go bad.

JKJ

[Sam Murdoch]

^ Yes, absolutely, but if not treated prior to storage :eek:

[John Terefenko]

I always clean Watco Danish oil with Acetone and never a problem.

[Thomas Wilson80]

Thanks for all of the replies. I had a defined circle of sticky DO in the bottom of the bowl (didn't take a picture) but was able to get it off by wiping down with fresh DO followed by blending it with steel wool. I'm still getting the hang of turning and wish I could do it more often but am definitely hooked.

This is from a black walnut log about 9" in diameter, turned semi-wet on my mini-Jet and finished with just DO.
Comments/critiques welcome.
Tom

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