Shaper technique question

[James Biddle]

What the's correct shaper technique for producing an edge chamfer that starts and stops 4" in from each end of a post? My thought was to pivot the front of the post in with the back against a stop, hand feed it until the front hits another stop, then pivot it out before shutting off the spindle. Then I started wondering if that would produce burns or be more dangerous than some other technique. Posts are 3-1/2" square mahogany, 24" and 60" in length. Thanks.

[Mike Wilkins]

The technique you describe is covered in the Shaper Book by Lonnie Bird. Just had my nose in the book last night. I have done similar cuts on the router table; I am a recent shaper owner so I have not had the chance to do any chamfer cuts on this machine. But your method is OK.

[Martin Wasner]

I would do it with a handheld router if you can. That's assuming it doesn't require some monster router bit.

Starting and stopping cuts in a shaper isn't ideal

[Mel Fulks]

Router would be good. I would not do that job on a shaper without a spring hold down. Beyond the safety concern is the consideration that the slightest non flat ( twist) will probably spoil the work. Even with so much written about safety there are things that are left out because they judge that they are better off from stand point of liability to hold that type of work is just too dangerous.

[Warren Lake]

tilt your jointer fence to 45 degrees and use a stop to start your cut? how much is the bevel? done it all three ways.

[Mark Bolton]

I would do it with a handheld router if you can. That's assuming it doesn't require some monster router bit.

Starting and stopping cuts in a shaper isn't ideal

Im on track with this one. If it isnt for some reason essential to do it on the shaper I would opt out. A shallow chamfer wouldnt be an issue to simply make a pencil/tape/sharpie mark on the fence and manually plunge, feed, then pull out. But if you opt for the router you can clamp a stop block on either end of the work and just rout between the blocks.

[johnny means]

Keep in mind, that the ends of your cut won't be symetrical. One side will show a radius, the other a chamfer. The remedy would be to run each corner twice, running each corner from both ends.

[Mike Cutler]

Start at the 19:00 minute mark of the following video;

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4n6yTHMBX54

It's actually a pretty good video for shaper technique. Definitely worth the time to watch it.
Patrick Molzahn has a seven part series on the shaper that is informative also.

"Dropping on", as Roy refers to it, is a common technique for a shaper. It can be done safely, but you need to be prepared.
Practice with very shallow cuts and get used to the feel. If you try to drop on with a heavy cut the first time out, it probably won't go well. You can also make progressively deeper cuts and set a back stop on your fence for repeatability.

DO NOT TRY TO DROP ON FREEHAND It's a good way to break your wrist, or forearm. Nope, not me, but it was pretty ugly when it happened.:eek:

[Larry Edgerton]

What the's correct shaper technique for producing an edge chamfer that starts and stops 4" in from each end of a post? My thought was to pivot the front of the post in with the back against a stop, hand feed it until the front hits another stop, then pivot it out before shutting off the spindle. Then I started wondering if that would produce burns or be more dangerous than some other technique. Posts are 3-1/2" square mahogany, 24" and 60" in length. Thanks.

That is the way I do it on large columns, usually have to screw on ax. fences because of the length. I use a straight bit and hold the column at a 45 with a sled so the end comes out square. A router does not work because where you stop is not square because of the nature of a router bit, same as a champher bit in the shaper. Know what I mean?

[Larry Edgerton]

I just remembered that you have a tilt shaper, makes it easy, straight cutter and tip it back. Another of the reasons that I want a new SCM.

[James Biddle]

Great responses. I do have a couple of Aigner Extensions and a couple of Aigner Variostops on order, if that makes a difference.

The reason I did not want to use a handheld router was because I have to repeat the cuts on all four edges and my perception was that it would be more difficult (and error prone) to realign the stops for each cut than a fixed stop on either a shaper or router table.

I thought of the shaper because I have a nice 45 degree cutter I sometimes use for long miters and such and my 45 degree router bit is 1/4" shank, only meant for small chamfers.

I'm planning to take out a 1/4" off the corners, leaving close to a 3/8" face. I'm OK buying a bigger router bit if its needed, but I already own the shaper and it's easier for me to tune cuts since I use it more. Also, wouldn't the smaller diameter of the router bit be more inclined to chip out at the end of the cut than the larger diameter shaper cutter?

[Jeff Duncan]

What the's correct shaper technique for producing an edge chamfer that starts and stops 4" in from each end of a post? My thought was to pivot the front of the post in with the back against a stop, hand feed it until the front hits another stop, then pivot it out before shutting off the spindle. Then I started wondering if that would produce burns or be more dangerous than some other technique. Posts are 3-1/2" square mahogany, 24" and 60" in length. Thanks.

Yup, that how I do them. Router is better for those not comfortable on a shaper, other than that a good shaper is better in every regard. Better quality cut, less worry about burning, faster to run, there's just no contest.

good luck,
JeffD

[James Biddle]

Keep in mind, that the ends of your cut won't be symetrical. One side will show a radius, the other a chamfer. The remedy would be to run each corner twice, running each corner from both ends.
Johnny, sorry I didn't explain what I'm attempting very clearly. I'm chamfering the edge of a post with the post laying flat against the fence and bed. Wouldn't the cut be symmetrical at each end?

[James Biddle]

Here's the shaper setup I'm looking to use (from the Aigner catalog). 383766

[Joe Calhoon]

Shaper is best way to do this hands down. I would walk a mile to avoid using a router.
Safer to drop in from the back with a wide stop. We bought the Aigner while doing A Victorian house that had several hundred stop chamfers on trim and doors. Easy to make a shop built fixture for this also.

Easy to set, just make a spacer same thickness as depth and adjust the fence till the cutter just touches the workpiece. The overhead guard can be used to put light pressure down.

383767
383768
383769
383770
383771
383772

[Larry Edgerton]

Ya, just like that!:D

The last columns I did were 10" x 11' long with a 1" chamfer ending in a stretched reverse ogee. I did the chamfer on the shaper and then made a couple of router bits to do the ogee running across the corner on a saddle. Could have done it with a chisel quicker if it had not been Versatex. Versatex does not chisel so good.

[Joe Calhoon]

Larry, Peter G came up with a good way to do that for quantities using a sliding saw with a custom cutter in a tenon head. Maybe he will post a picture.

[lowell holmes]

When trying a new approach, I practice on scraps while developing a safe approach.

[johnny means]

Johnny, sorry I didn't explain what I'm attempting very clearly. I'm chamfering the edge of a post with the post laying flat against the fence and bed. Wouldn't the cut be symmetrical at each end?

I got what you were saying. The best way to visualize what i was describing is to look at a chamfer cutter or bit. From the top its a radius, from the side its an angle. The end of your cut will mimic this difference. Running both faces against the fence will cancel out the difference. Of course, this isn't a problem with a tilting shaper with a straight cutter.

[Rod Sheridan]

Joe's setup is great.

I often do insertion molding using stops on the shaper, yes I have a tilting spindle shaper.

Use the hold down from a Shaw guard and a couple of stops, it works very well.

I also would avoid a router if at all possible..............Rod.

[brent stanley]

Joe's post (#15) is your best bet. You can approxomate the aigner kit with scraps clamped on. Way cleaner and more elegant than a router.