Kreg Jig ?

[Mike Burke]

I am thinking about getting a Kreg Jig. Probably using it on face frames and other areas...in place of my biscuit jointer...in some applications looks like it might be easier and quicker.

Any suggestion on which kit would be a good one to start with ?
I just have a hobby shop..not production or heavy work.

Thanks for any suggestions....or maybe there is another pocket hole jig that is better than the Kreg

Suggestions ?

[lowell holmes]

I've used both pocket screws and biscuit joinery successfully. I plugged the holes of the pocket screw, putting them on the back side of the frame. I consider the joint to be stronger
but I still prefer biscuits.

[Ben Rivel]

K5 was the only one I considered for my hobby shop. I went with the K5 Master System with a couple other accessories. Very nice setup. Check out eBay for bundles as I found those deals to be the best around.

[Ken Kortge]

You can certainly do most of what you'll want with the jig alone - the R3, but I agree with Ben's recommendation of the K5, though I bought the K4 Master System well before the K5 was available. I think the K5 is certainly a step up from the K4 in that it provides a stable place to set panels (with the K4 you'll have to do your best to hold it level or create your own 3/4" high resting pads. I also like that the K5 clamps from the front - the K4 clamps from the back, which is a pain with larger panels.

Do you need a K5 Master System - instead of just the K5 base? It depends on whether or not you think you'll want/need to make pocket holes off of the jig. I've seen videos done by VERY experienced people who had to go back and add pocket holes after partial assembly of the cabinet, which would be tough without the Portable Base and a clamp. Then again, you can always buy just the K5 base now, and then buy the Portable Base and a Kreg 3" Clamp later - they are sold separately.

By the way, I don't really understand why the "Stop Collar Setting Block" that is sold with the K5 is needed. I'd think you could just set the collar by laying a U.S. Nickel on the base - as a lot of users are doing. Maybe there is something there I don't understand.

[Cary Falk]

I have the K3 because I got it off CL but I used the older version of the R3 for years and it has been fine

[glenn bradley]

If you are doing your kitchen, the R3 will be fine. If you are doing a neighborhood full of kitchens I would spend more. I started with the mini and used nothing else for years . . . I also don't do kitchen and bath work and just needed something for every now and then. I also have the micro-jig and base which is nice for thinner material. Somehow I ended up with a 'drill guide block' that also shares the micro-jig's base.

I had a K3 system but, sold it as the space required to use it versus my volume of use didn't make sense. I could clamp the loose jig on and have a hole before I got the K3 out of the case. Again, I am not doing face frames and you are. If I were doing them I would want something more substantial and repeatable than a loose jig.

[Matt Day]

I have the K3 master kit. It’s not my go to joinery method but I’m glad to have it because sometimes it’s the only way to go. Just used on some built ins shelves i added face frames to so I could add doors.

[Lee Schierer]

I have the original metal K-1 jig and it has worked well for many years. A few years ago I added Kreg R-2 Rocket to give me a bit more versatility on wood thickness. I have gone through thousands of screws over the years with very few issues. I also found I could make my own plugs from dowels and a flush cut saw. Making my own dowels or buying ones of the same wood as the frame helps to hide the plugs.

[Marshall Harrison]

From watching his videos I am sold on Marc Sommerfeld's pocket whole jig -


https://sommerfeldtools.com/professional-equipment-and-tools/jigs-and-guides/pocket-hole-jig

I don't have one but when I'm ready this will be the one I intend to purchase.

[Von Bickley]

I have the K-4 system. If I was buying one to-day, it would be the K-5.

[Bruce Wrenn]

From watching his videos I am sold on Marc Sommerfeld's pocket whole jig -


https://sommerfeldtools.com/professional-equipment-and-tools/jigs-and-guides/pocket-hole-jig

I don't have one but when I'm ready this will be the one I intend to purchase.Marc Summerfeld is Craig Summerfeld's brother if memory serves me correct. The name Kreg came from Craig Summerfeld's name. To get started, I recommend the R-3 and a set (two) of the auto clamps. For extra bits, buy the single hole from big box stores. Comes with jig, bit, stop collar,and Allen wrench.

[Marshall Harrison]

Marc Summerfeld is Craig Summerfeld's brother if memory serves me correct. The name Kreg came from Craig Summerfeld's name. To get started, I recommend the R-3 and a set (two) of the auto clamps. For extra bits, buy the single hole from big box stores. Comes with jig, bit, stop collar,and Allen wrench.

Thanks Bruce, I didn't know that.

[Dan Rude]

When buying the Clamps, get the longer one 6-8". You will use it more than you think. Dan

[Ole Anderson]

I have the K4 system, great improvement over my first Kreg jig. I like the vac attachment set up to turn on when my drill starts. Yes I use a corded drill, I like the extra bit speed with the jig. Having the old jig gives me two stepped drill bits, I have one set up for 3/4" material, the other for 1-1/2" material.

[Mark W Pugh]

K4 Master system. I also just bought their plug making jig, now the plugs will match the wood.

Oh, and somewhere on the web, there is a chart that shows what size of screw to use for same and different size pieces. I don't know if the chart included with the system covers joining 2 different size pieces of wood.

I guess this is the chart.

http://api.ning.com/files/kkaG0viVHkNd-SfGSpTRmBlgsvBZqmEnccRShdqRBBSBc7CLSC7tlARJkc*jg*5 YtR5bjw1U4mJZ6N5bMGBfmudw0kAcTqSr/ScrewSettings.pdf

[Mike Heidrick]

Get a foreman. Bee's knees.

[Mike Kreinhop]

Get a foreman. Bee's knees.

Yes it is! I have the K4, but when I started building my shop cabinets, the number of pocket holes required made the K4 too cumbersome. The Foreman was definitely worth the cost.

[George Bokros]

Wrong quote.

I am trying to figure out whether you use the top or side as the thickness of the piece you are drilling or does it matter. I think it is the top row. Anyone?

Thanks

[George Bokros]

K4 Master system. I also just bought their plug making jig, now the plugs will match the wood.

Oh, and somewhere on the web, there is a chart that shows what size of screw to use for same and different size pieces. I don't know if the chart included with the system covers joining 2 different size pieces of wood.

I guess this is the chart.

http://api.ning.com/files/kkaG0viVHkNd-SfGSpTRmBlgsvBZqmEnccRShdqRBBSBc7CLSC7tlARJkc*jg*5 YtR5bjw1U4mJZ6N5bMGBfmudw0kAcTqSr/ScrewSettings.pdf

This is the one I meant to quote. Which row is the one that is the piece you drill, the top row or the side column?

Sorry for the screw up.

Thanks

[Mark W Pugh]

Wrong quote.

I am trying to figure out whether you use the top or side as the thickness of the piece you are drilling or does it matter. I think it is the top row. Anyone?

Thanks

That's a darn good question. I was hoping someone else would jump in. I have not used the jig in this way. It wouldn't take long to figure out though. If the screw went all the way through the work piece, then...........

[Mike Kreinhop]

This is the one I meant to quote. Which row is the one that is the piece you drill, the top row or the side column?

The left side is the main work piece that is drilled. The top is the mating surface.

[George Bokros]

Thanks Mike.

[Lee Schierer]

I am trying to figure out whether you use the top or side as the thickness of the piece you are drilling or does it matter. I think it is the top row. Anyone?

Thanks

The dimensions that are listed vertically at the left side of the chart are the thickness of the piece being drilled.
383891

[Osvaldo Cristo]

Although I have used eventually pocket hole in the past three decades, always they were made manually with no jig
I am new to pocket hole jig but from all my researches, Kreg is the best one available in the market
I went to K5 Master kit. It was very expensive in my country (around USD 300)... is that for the metric scale? :confused:
It is a great kit but an overkill for an amateur using it occasionally
Today if I had to decide again, I would go to Kreg, undoubtedly, but something more basic and cheaper.


Good luck in your decision.

All the best.

[Edwin Santos]

The dimensions that are listed vertically at the left side of the chart are the thickness of the piece being drilled.
383891

There are only two variables with a Kreg jig, one is jig setting and one is screw length. A good way of understanding the jig is to remember that the jig setting is almost always intended to get the screw exit hole centered in the thickness of the workpiece you are drilling. The clue to what I am saying is found in the chart in that the jig setting almost always matches the column on the left. The only exceptions are in (rare) cases where the mating workpiece is substantially thinner in which case they recommend a lower jig setting to split the difference. Generally speaking, I always set the jig to the thickness of the material I'm drilling, and then pick the screw by the thickness of the mating piece. Hope this helps.

By the way, one great use of the Kreg jig is to use the pocket screws in places where they won't be seen as a means of clamping a joint. Let's say you have a long workpiece with dowels in the end, and no clamps long enough to clamp the joint. You can use a pocket screw for the sole purpose of pulling the joint together and acting like a clamp.

Oh, and if you want to plug the holes and don't care to spend the money on Kreg plugs, just buy 3/8" dowel rods from the home center and it should plug the standard sized Kreg holes perfectly. Just trim off with a flush trim saw.
Edwin

[Bruce Wrenn]

There are basically two types of pocket holers. Those who bought a Kreg first, and those who wish they had.

[Mike Burke]

We had an event to go to in Springfield Mo last weekend... so of course I HAD to go to the Grizzly Store. Wow !!!!
What a store. I and my wife were impressed. Great Store !!
And while we were there my wife bought me a Kreg K5 kit for my birthday :)

[Carlos Alvarez]

I have the K-4 system. If I was buying one to-day, it would be the K-5.

+1

I don't use it enough to justify an upgrade, but do like having it available.

[Bruce Wrenn]

We had an event to go to in Springfield Mo last weekend... so of course I HAD to go to the Grizzly Store. Wow !!!!
What a store. I and my wife were impressed. Great Store !!
And while we were there my wife bought me a Kreg K5 kit for my birthday :)Give her a great big hug and thanks for all of us.

[Osvaldo Cristo]

We had an event to go to in Springfield Mo last weekend... so of course I HAD to go to the Grizzly Store. Wow !!!!
What a store. I and my wife were impressed. Great Store !!
And while we were there my wife bought me a Kreg K5 kit for my birthday :)

:D:D:D

Great to know! Enjoy!

[Rich Engelhardt]

I had a Kreg R3 - an older one that came with the Vice Grip clamp.
It worked great.
Then the word went out that Kreg was doing away with the K3 Master in favor of the K4 - some sort of patent dispute....

I jumped all over a K3 Master when I saw them on the shelf at Hartville Hdwe. a few months later, after all the online sources had dried up.

Honestly though - if I were to replace the K3 tomorrow it would be with the Harbor Freight version.
It's actually better made than the Kreg. It's all metal, not plastic.

https://www.harborfreight.com/portable-pocket-hole-jig-kit-96264.html

[Cary Falk]

Here is another metal version of the Kreg.
https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?262892-Better-Than-Kreg-Pocket-Hole-Jig&highlight=kreg

[Bruce Wrenn]

[QUOTE=Rich Engelhardt;2804843]
It's actually better made than the Kreg. It's all metal, not plastic.QUOTE] I don't understand your problem with plastic. Think of the things you use daily that are plastic. Hulls on boats, helmets, the belts in your tires, counter tops, safety glasses, bullet proof glass, etc. Just because something is made of plastic, doesn't mean it's cheap. With both jigs (HF, and Kreg) the guide bushings, which is where the work is being done are hardened steel.

[Marshall Harrison]

I just bought the HF pocket hole jig today. All metal and seems to be a good value for the money. Will try it out in the next few days.

[Bruce Wrenn]

I just bought the HF pocket hole jig today. All metal and seems to be a good value for the money. Will try it out in the next few days.Don't worry, you have 90 days to return it if it doesn't work out.

[Rich Engelhardt]

I don't understand your problem with plastic. I'm 66 years old. Guns, knives, truck beds and tools should be metal, not plastic.... ;).
Heck, at my age, I just barely accpet the fact that "stainless steel" is really steel!!! ;). and there's ome other kind of metal than steel! ;).
:D
BTW - my wife just picked up a ceramic kitchen knife. Wonderful sharp blade - - that the tip snapped off of 30 seconds after it's first use.
I have 60 year old steel knives that are still perfectly fine.


With both jigs (HF, and Kreg) the guide bushings, which is where the work is being done are hardened steel.True - but - if/when the inserts get loose, the ones bedded in metal should be much easier to fix.
Plastic has a lot of issues when it comes to fixing it.

[Bruce Wrenn]

rue - but - if/when the inserts get loose, the ones bedded in metal should be much easier to fix.
Plastic has a lot of issues when it comes to fixing it.With the Kreg, if guide should ever fail, the fix is easy. Call Kreg and tell them what happened, and most likely they will want your address to give you a new jig. Guides are life time items.