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Alex Liebert
04-10-2018, 8:37 PM
Not sure if my terminology is wrong - correct me if so.

But imagine an oval shaped picture frame. I suppose a power router would the motorized way to cut a groove for the glass, how would it be done by hand?

Stu Gillard
04-10-2018, 9:20 PM
You could get yourself a Stanley 196 :D

It's a fair bit of coin though

383590

steven c newman
04-10-2018, 9:30 PM
There was also a couple Cooper's planes.....to mill a groove for the lid....can be adjusted to cut the rebate...

Mark Rainey
04-10-2018, 9:52 PM
383596383596Alex, I have been making curved rabbets by hand two ways. The most straightforward method is to draw the border of the curved rabbet & then, using a (mildly curved - usually a number 3) carving gouge, carve into the border (using a mallet to drive the gouge in just about 1/16 inch) Do this for the entire border of the rabbet. This is a vertical cut. Now gently use the gouge by hand in a horizontal fashion to carve the layer of wood on the surface to the depth of the initial vertical cut. Repeat the whole process, starting with the vertical cut, until you get to the depth you wish.

Mark Rainey
04-10-2018, 10:04 PM
Alex, the second way to cut curved rabbets is to outline the curved border of the rabbet with “scratch stock”. I use a small piece of metal attached to a wood beam to act like a cutting compass. I learned to make these tools years ago with Steve Latta who uses them for inlay work. Lee Valley sells similar tools. The saw like teeth cut out a small trench and then I carve out the remainder with a gouge. In this case I used a number 6 gouge to have a sloping profile on the curved rabbet383597

Barney Markunas
04-10-2018, 10:35 PM
Just curious - would this be an application for a coachmaker's rabbet? I've never seen one in the flesh much less used one so I honestly do not know.

andy bessette
04-10-2018, 10:41 PM
A router plane should do it.

Alex Liebert
04-10-2018, 10:42 PM
Alex, the second way to cut curved rabbets is to outline the curved border of the rabbet with “scratch stock”. I use a small piece of metal attached to a wood beam to act like a cutting compass. I learned to make these tools years ago with Steve Latta who uses them for inlay work. Lee Valley sells similar tools. The saw like teeth cut out a small trench and then I carve out the remainder with a gouge. In this case I used a number 6 gouge to have a sloping profile on the curved rabbet383597

I think I understand. The scratch stock is not shown in the picture correct? (What's the name of the Lee Valley similar tool- purely for my own curiousity on this topic, seeing their tool might help me grasp the mechanics of it.)

john zulu
04-11-2018, 12:38 AM
It is a very good question. Keep on coming with new ideas. I have an idea with the router plane too. No pictures though as I have not tested it myself.

Jim Koepke
04-11-2018, 12:43 AM
Stanley made a #66 beading scratch stock.

My curved rabbet was convex:

383601

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?226504-Bucket-Seat

For a concave cut it might be easier with a slitting gauge, chisels and a router plane.

There are likely a few ways to do it efficiently by hand.

jtk

Derek Cohen
04-11-2018, 1:51 AM
Not sure if my terminology is wrong - correct me if so.

But imagine an oval shaped picture frame. I suppose a power router would the motorized way to cut a groove for the glass, how would it be done by hand?

Alex, something similar to this was the curved front for a drawer bottom that fitted into the curved (bowed) drawer front. The work for this was (1) shape the curve with a plane, (2) score the outline of the rebate with a cutting gauge, (3) use a chisel to remove some of the waste, and (4) finish with a shoulder plane.

This is in a pictorial, here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/BuildingTheDrawers.html


http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/BuildingTheDrawers_html_41727b4d.jpg


… pared back to the line …


http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/BuildingTheDrawers_html_m2d560127.jpg


… and then cleaned up with a small shoulder plane.


http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/BuildingTheDrawers_html_m2fc7009e.jpg


Regards from Perth

Derek

Stu Gillard
04-11-2018, 2:59 AM
@Derek

The shoulder plane wouldn't be much good in the OP's case as it sounds like an inside curve.

A circular plane (or spokeshave) for the shaping and swap the shoulder plane for a router plane for cleanup.

Derek Cohen
04-11-2018, 3:28 AM
Stu, you are correct! I misread.

I would use a scratch stock after scoring the edges with a cutting gauge and chiseling away some of the waste.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Tom M King
04-11-2018, 9:00 AM
Another way would be a sash shave with a straight cutter in place of the molding cutter. search for "sash spokeshave" on the auction site, and there should be a number of them. I have used one for replacing parts in an old circular sash that had curved muntins.

Mark Rainey
04-11-2018, 9:44 AM
Correct. Look at Lee Valley site inlay tool, basic system video & they will show the compass cut and a template guided curved cut. The key to the curved rabbet is preventing tear out because you have long & cross grain. In my first example with the gouge my border is not clean but because it is in the inside & rarely seen I am OK with that. This may be sufficient for your mirror glass - the rabbet will never be seen. A perfect clean rabbet border is a challenge. I use the compass method to get me a clean cut and a little trench between my border and the waste. Derek uses a cutting gauge to define the border and at the end sneaks up with a chisel to prevent tear out. The video shows a templatguided knife cut. Then the fun of excavating begins. It can be laborious and tedious. I am certain this was done hundreds of years ago by hand and museum pieces do show evidence of handwork ( which appeared a little ratty to me ). But maybe Neanderthals like seeing evidence of the human hand.

Pat Barry
04-11-2018, 11:16 AM
Correct. Look at Lee Valley site inlay tool, basic system video & they will show the compass cut and a template guided curved cut. The key to the curved rabbet is preventing tear out because you have long & cross grain. In my first example with the gouge my border is not clean but because it is in the inside & rarely seen I am OK with that. This may be sufficient for your mirror glass - the rabbet will never be seen. A perfect clean rabbet border is a challenge. I use the compass method to get me a clean cut and a little trench between my border and the waste. Derek uses a cutting gauge to define the border and at the end sneaks up with a chisel to prevent tear out. The video shows a templatguided knife cut. Then the fun of excavating begins. It can be laborious and tedious. I am certain this was done hundreds of years ago by hand and museum pieces do show evidence of handwork ( which appeared a little ratty to me ). But maybe Neanderthals like seeing evidence of the human hand.
the border for the outside of a mirror is not so important as the mating surface for the mirror which neefs to be near perfect. On an interior oval rabbet this will be very challenging.

Mark Rainey
04-11-2018, 2:22 PM
the border for the outside of a mirror is not so important as the mating surface for the mirror which neefs to be near perfect. On an interior oval rabbet this will be very challenging.
Yes, I assume the mating surface is the bottom of the rabbet- perhaps a router plane at this point would keep the bottom level so there are no gaps visible from the front. I have included more pics from my compass method for outlining curved rebates383631383632 which are arcs

James Pallas
04-11-2018, 7:12 PM
Mark, I did these inlays with a knife and a router plane.
Jim

Mark Rainey
04-11-2018, 7:46 PM
Mark, I did these inlays with a knife and a router plane.
Jim
Very nice James!