Who uses/likes the Grr-Ripper?

[Marshall Harrison]

I'm looking for something better than the common push stick that comes with my saw.

So, who among us used the Grr-Ripper 3D Pushblock? Do you like it? Do you feel it is safer?

Do you use one or two for longer pieces?

Thanks for your insight.



And yes I am back from the dead. I'm losing 200+ posts but I decided to go back to my original SMC login. I'll have to set up any friends again but its till me which ever account I use. Wish I could get them combined.

[Nick Decker]

I use one and feel it's safe as long as you double check for clearance for the blade to pass through the "tunnel." I wouldn't say it will replace other push blocks, though. Definitely better than a long skinny stick with a notch in it.

[Marshall Harrison]

I use one and feel it's safe as long as you double check for clearance for the blade to pass through the "tunnel." I wouldn't say it will replace other push blocks, though. Definitely better than a long skinny stick with a notch in it.

From looking at the videos on it I don't think blade clearance for the blade to pass through affects teh safety much. But it would sure get expensive to screw that up. Those things are not cheap.

I'm considering getting two of them. Maybe one each of the base unit and the Advanced version.

[John Redford]

I have had one for a while...it is my go to push block.

[richard poitras]

I have a few of them they work great...I got a couple for cheap at a rummage sale.

[Frank Pratt]

I considered one, but too frequently it would get in the way of the guard so I decided not to make it part of my workflow.

[George Bokros]

I have them and used them when ever I can. There are some instances that they cannot be used. Would I purchase again, definitely. I also have their other GRR-Rip Block for use on the jointer when face jointing. They are great also, much better that the run of the mill ones that came with my jointer.

[Timothy Shouldice]

I used to use them a lot but then I got the Jessem Clear-Cut TS stock guides, now I only the Grr-Rippper for narrow cuts.

[ray grundhoefer]

use one on my wood shaper. way safer than not having one

[David Kumm]

I keep two on each jointer. The tabs sometimes stick but I never touch the wood with my hand. I keep four on my one traditional saw, mainly for short pieces or thin strips. One usually fits without adjusting. Not a perfect solution but for certain types of cuts, I prefer to set the blade height just over the board and use the grripper rather than poke a stick with a guard in place. Not advocating that technique but it works for me. I'm also running 16-18" blades so the distance from front to back is greater than with a small 10" blade. Dave

[Matt Day]

I have two somehwere. I only use them on thin long cuts which is a rarity for me.

[Larry Frank]

I have two and use them constantly. I have arthritis in my wrists and these are more comfortable for me. I think they are especially good for smaller pieces and narrow rips.

[Marshall Harrison]

I have two somehwere. I only use them on thin long cuts which is a rarity for me.

That sounds about right. Not sure if longer and wider boards would need them but I supposed they could still be used for anything other than crosscuts which would normally be done on the miter guage

[Frederick Skelly]

I have one, and use it occasionally. When I need it, I'm darn glad to have it in my safety arsenal.
It's worth the money when I need it.
Fred

[Ted Baxter]

I have 2 and like them alot

[Bruce Page]

I have 2 and like them alot
Ditto, they allow me to make cuts that I would be uncomfortable making otherwise.

[Ben Rivel]

I have two, special versions that are all black to match my SawStop ;) and yea, for the right cuts they are awesome!

[Marshall Harrison]

I have two, special versions that are all black to match my SawStop ;) and yea, for the right cuts they are awesome!

Is the "all black" version something that SawStop commissioned just for SS owners?

I hesitated to ask about Grr-Rippers as I thought they might be as hot a topic as SawStops can be.

[tom lucas]

I have two and use them all the time. You'll still need a push stick or two for the instances that the Grrrippers don't work. Get or make gravity blocks for them. This gives you edge push on those really hard wood pieces that go through more stubbornly.

[Simon MacGowen]

The Grr-ripper shines in cutting 1/8" strips, short stock that does not have a straight edge, and resawing (up to about 3/4 of the height of your fence, unless add a taller subfence).

It is true for some cuts, the guard has to be removed but that applies whether or not you use the Grr-ripper.

I don't use mine for cutting long boards as a featherboard and riving knife are more effective in ripping them.

Worth the money? Yes if you use it often for the cuts I highlight above. It is one of my go-to push blocks/shoes on my tablesaw (oh yes, it is a SawStop, too; you can never have enough tablesaw safety measures).

Simon

[Earl Rumans]

I have a pair of them and use them all the time. I think it is the safest way to make cuts up to about 6 inches wide, wider then that and they still work well but other push sticks will also work well.

[Bill Sutherland]

I have one I use on my Sawstop along with the Jessem stock guides. Works great.

[Edwin Santos]

The Grr-ripper shines in cutting 1/8" strips, short stock that does not have a straight edge, and resawing (up to about 3/4 of the height of your fence, unless add a taller subfence).


Simon

Thanks for posting this. I didn't understand your comment, and it prompted me to go to their site where I learned of the 1/8" leg accessory. Nice!

[glenn bradley]

I have 2 and like them alot


Ditto, they allow me to make cuts that I would be uncomfortable making otherwise.

I have two as well and wouldn’t want to be without them.

[Darcy Warner]

One set of the push block ones stays on my 30" jointer all the time, have the TS one someplace (don't use TS very much and they don't help with feeding slr)

[david beck]

Made a pair a year or so ago and dont know what i did before that now.

[Rick Moyer]

Had the Grr-ipper first, 200 model I think, then later added two GrrippBlocks. If I were only getting one I would get the Grr-ipper, but the Grippblocks are great too especially at the jointer, but they won't straddle the blade of a table saw.

[Marshall Harrison]

Thanks for posting this. I didn't understand your comment, and it prompted me to go to their site where I learned of the 1/8" leg accessory. Nice!

To be clear on tis; the 1/8" leg is not an accessory. It comes as part of the Grr-Ripper. So nothing else to by as long as you don't run it through your TS - always check clearance with the saw off before making the actual cut.

I have watched every video I could find on the Grr-Riper and I'll be ordering one soon.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi Marshall, I looked at them however you have to remove the blade guard to use them, that ended my interest in them.

Having no blade guard greatly increases the risk of kickback or blade contact injuries.............Regards, Rod.

[Marshall Harrison]

Hi Marshall, I looked at them however you have to remove the blade guard to use them, that ended my interest in them.

Having no blade guard greatly increases the risk of kickback or blade contact injuries.............Regards, Rod.

Yeah, I thought of that Rod. But when cutting small pieces the blade guard will most likely be off anyway. But I always intend to keep the riving knife on the saw so that will help some.

My intentions are to always cut with the blade guard on the saw for those types of cut where it can be used.

[Scott Brader]

I bought one about a year ago and wished I had gotten it much earlier. They have become my go-to push block.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

I'll offer the lone dissenting opinion, nothing against Grr-rippers though.

There are always piles of scraps and cutoffs around, I just make a pushblock to fit whatever I'm cutting. Takes a min on the bandsaw and it's free. For ripping small pieces on a traditional type saw, I like a longer "kidney" shaped block that allows my hand to be quite a bit above and behind the blade, and touches the stock in at least two places, 10" or so apart. Keeps the cutoff in control that way. Usually run the blade up into the pushblock so it's always covered when ripping small stuff. Wow, it's hard to describe that, I'll post a pic if anyone is curious.

[Marshall Harrison]

I'll offer the lone dissenting opinion, nothing against Grr-rippers though.

There are always piles of scraps and cutoffs around, I just make a pushblock to fit whatever I'm cutting. Takes a min on the bandsaw and it's free. For ripping small pieces on a traditional type saw, I like a longer "kidney" shaped block that allows my hand to be quite a bit above and behind the blade, and touches the stock in at least two places, 10" or so apart. Keeps the cutoff in control that way. Usually run the blade up into the pushblock so it's always covered when ripping small stuff. Wow, it's hard to describe that, I'll post a pic if anyone is curious.

I'm curious. Show us the pic.

[Tom Bender]

Push sticks and typical push blocks scare me now that I have much better.

I use a push block and sometimes a push stick from the side to keep the workpiece tight to the table and the fence. I used-to use a hardwood push block but it kept getting thrown back at me. This was because it was sometimes longer than the piece and it got sucked down into the blade before the piece even got to the blade. I learned.

Now my push block is a big hunk of Balsa, though styrofoam works fine also. It is 4" wide x 6" high x 24" long with a hardwood top and back. There is an adjustable tab on the back. The tab and block get chewed a little so there is some repair occasionally. If it does get sucked down, it just doesn't matter. I can safely and confidently rip 1/2" square x 3" long pieces. There have been no incidents.

Please try this approach and post your results.

[Steve Rozmiarek]

I'm curious. Show us the pic.

Here you go Marshall. This one is ready for retirement, and is unnecessary on the slider it's sitting on. Was using this one for 12" x 1/4" strips if I remember correctly.

383607

[Ben Rivel]

Is the "all black" version something that SawStop commissioned just for SS owners?

I hesitated to ask about Grr-Rippers as I thought they might be as hot a topic as SawStops can be.
No back when MicroJig was still making black parts for the Grr-Rippers I called them and had them put together two using all black parts. No idea whey they never sold them like that and instead opted first for the ugly black and yellow mix-n-match version then finally the worse all yellow version, but yea. Im just glad I got in before they stopped making the black components.

[Simon MacGowen]

For those who want to buy a commerical version of this type of push shoe: https://www.amazon.com/Big-Horn-10230-Woodworkers-Safety/dp/B001C4O92I/ref=br_lf_m_pgrr32omav2a64a_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&s=hi

You can replace the push pin when it is worn out.

Simon

[Simon MacGowen]

Hi Rod,

"Primarily used as a combination blade guard and push block..." and "On a table saw, it carries both the main stock and the offcut past the blade, reducing the risk of kickback, burning or a wandering cut" are what the Grr-ripper seeks to do.

I understand the concerns about removing the guard but the Grr ripprer is, in my opinion, why it should be used under such circumstances. If a guard is not removed, other types of aids such as the dual tread push shoe will suffice. I only use the Grr- rpiper when the guard is removed.

When resawing with the Grr-ripper, these parts of the Grr-ripper reduce the chance of kickback: the center leg and the baseplate (the piece with the hook that bucks against the stock tight to the fence like a featherboard).

The Jesseem saw guides are great, but they can't handle short and narrow stock as a Gr-ripper does. So, if anyone asks me, the J. saw guides, the dual tread push shoe, the Grr-ripper and magnetic featherboards plus a SawStop would present the best cabinet saw safety protection possible today when using the cabinet saw with the guard removed.

Simon

[glenn bradley]

To be clear on tis; the 1/8" leg is not an accessory. It comes as part of the Grr-Ripper.

Do you have a ink to the unit you are looking at? Both of mine (bought at different times) came with the 1/4" and 1/2" fixed legs with a 1" movable. I had to buy the 1/8" legs.

As you can see, folks run hot and cold on these. The advantage to that is that those who don't care for them often sell them.

They have become part of the way I think about an operation. I'm no Jim Toplin but, I use my tablesaw for all sorts of wizardry. The Grr-Rippers factor in to all sorts of operations at the tablesaw and the router table for me. I made my own tail stops for them but, find the friction pads to work so well I have hardly used them.

The multiple t-solts and attachment points lend themselves to all sorts of ideas in the shop. There are accessories that you can buy but, many of these can be made ad-hoc out of scrap. 1/8" tempered hardboard for guards or bridging connectors for example.

383612 . 383613

383614 . 383615

I don't see them so much any more but, back when they first came out, all sorts of packages were offered as sales leaders. Between these and the Woodworking Shows specials I have quite an array of extra legs and attachments. They live in a drawer by the tablesaw which gives me a sort of Swiss Army Knife choice of things for holding and processing material.

[Tim M Tuttle]

I have two and love them. Use them when I have to rip smaller than about 2 inches.

[Rod Sheridan]

Yeah, I thought of that Rod. But when cutting small pieces the blade guard will most likely be off anyway. But I always intend to keep the riving knife on the saw so that will help some.

My intentions are to always cut with the blade guard on the saw for those types of cut where it can be used.

Why would the blade guard be off?

I never remove the guard from my saw, whether sawing very small pieces or thin strips.............Rod.

[Carlos Alvarez]

Why would the blade guard be off?


Because it makes you less safe to deal with it instead of removing it.

I have a Gripper and love it. Don't use it a LOT, but when I do need it, nothing else will do the job as well or as safely.

[Marshall Harrison]

Do you have a ink to the unit you are looking at? Both of mine (bought at different times) came with the 1/4" and 1/2" fixed legs with a 1" movable. I had to buy the 1/8" legs.

As you can see, folks run hot and cold on these. The advantage to that is that those who don't care for them often sell them.

They have become part of the way I think about an operation. I'm no Jim Toplin but, I use my tablesaw for all sorts of wizardry. The Grr-Rippers factor in to all sorts of operations at the tablesaw and the router table for me. I made my own tail stops for them but, find the friction pads to work so well I have hardly used them.

The multiple t-solts and attachment points lend themselves to all sorts of ideas in the shop. There are accessories that you can buy but, many of these can be made ad-hoc out of scrap. 1/8" tempered hardboard for guards or bridging connectors for example.

383612 . 383613

383614 . 383615

I don't see them so much any more but, back when they first came out, all sorts of packages were offered as sales leaders. Between these and the Woodworking Shows specials I have quite an array of extra legs and attachments. They live in a drawer by the tablesaw which gives me a sort of Swiss Army Knife choice of things for holding and processing material.

My apologies. It looks like I misspoke. I was confusing the 1/4" leg that is shown in all of the videos with the 1/8" leg.

[Rod Sheridan]

Because it makes you less safe to deal with it instead of removing it.

I have a Gripper and love it. Don't use it a LOT, but when I do need it, nothing else will do the job as well or as safely.

Carlos, removing the guard never makes you more safe.

If it did, you would be allowed to remove guards at work.

That kind of thinking is what leads to accidents...............Regards, Rod.

[Corey Pelton]

I picked up 2 of them to leap frog longer stock with. They do work well. My biggest gripe is constantly having to reconfigure them. It's easy to lose those little black o rings and washers, so take care when dissembling them.

[Stan Calow]

I want to like the Gripper, but it still makes me uncomfortable to have my hand that close to blade.

[Carlos Alvarez]

If it did, you would be allowed to remove guards at work.


Right, that's why for some processes at work you are trained to remove the guards, since fighting them is less safe. Single-paradigm thinking leads to accidents.

[Carlos Alvarez]

I want to like the Gripper, but it still makes me uncomfortable to have my hand that close to blade.

I had a lot of mental blocks over that also. I eventually realized it's just emotional, but it took me a while to get over it. I still think about it every time and realize that there's no way the blade is getting through all that, nor can one piece break and send my hand into the blade.

[Joe Mioux]

i use two for table saw and jointer ...

[Carlos Alvarez]

i use two for table saw and jointer ...

I've never heard of using it on the jointer. Why and how? Any pics or video that you've seen for this? I have a twinge of fear any time I run something thin-ish over the jointer.

[Bob Hoffmann]

use one on my wood shaper. way safer than not having one

I agree whole heartedly abou tusing them on a shaper. With the adjustment to have the bripper lay flat on the shaper table and the gripping part on the board, it works great for keeping the board against the cutting fence and pushed on the table. I also use the stop block little blocks to prevent the stop block from getting too close to the cutters. It also keeps my hand away from the cutters.

I use 2 so that longer boards can be fed past the cutters.

I use them for the shaper -- did not find them usefull on the table saw, but that could be because I seldom cut narrow parts on the table saw.

[Marshall Harrison]

I've never heard of using it on the jointer. Why and how? Any pics or video that you've seen for this? I have a twinge of fear any time I run something thin-ish over the jointer.

I've seen videos of people using the Grr-ripper on the jointer but the GRR-Rip Block is designed for that:

https://www.amazon.com/GRR-RIP-BLOCK-Pushblock-Router-Jointer/dp/B00DNX3N7S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1523489562&sr=8-2&keywords=grr-rip+block

[Joe Mioux]

I've never heard of using it on the jointer. Why and how? Any pics or video that you've seen for this? I have a twinge of fear any time I run something thin-ish over the jointer.

when jointing thinner boards I use it as a push pad. I don't use it the same way as the table saw with one leg down. Sorry I should have been more specific.

https://www.microjig.com/static/img/products/grrripper/banner-microjig-03-tablet-v-4.jpg

[Robert Parent]

I have two of them and find them very useful on the tablesaw, joiner, and router table. They are not for every setup but work well for a many tasks.

Robert

[Carlos Alvarez]

when jointing thinner boards I use it as a push pad. I don't use it the same way as the table saw with one leg down. Sorry I should have been more specific.



Ah, ok. I have push pads all over the shop, so that use never occurred to me. Thanks for the clarification. I'm going to look at how it or the block can work though, since the pads sometimes slip on some wood, and I'd love something with a hook or ledge.

[Bruce Page]

I've seen videos of people using the Grr-ripper on the jointer but the GRR-Rip Block is designed for that:

https://www.amazon.com/GRR-RIP-BLOCK-Pushblock-Router-Jointer/dp/B00DNX3N7S/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1523489562&sr=8-2&keywords=grr-rip+block

Thanks Marshall, I just ordered one of those.

[Nick Decker]

I actually use my GRRRip Block more than the GRRRipper. As a basic push block for general use, it's rubber pad seems stickier than most. The gravity heels work well for me, too.

[lee cox]

I have one and use it for very small stuff. It sure feels weird to pass over the blade with your hand.

[Nick Decker]

It's easier to use than it is to type, I'm certain of that.

[Osvaldo Cristo]

Hi Marshall, I looked at them however you have to remove the blade guard to use them, that ended my interest in them.

Having no blade guard greatly increases the risk of kickback or blade contact injuries.............Regards, Rod.

At the same boat.

[David Kumm]

I don't feel very secure relying on the cheap crap plastic guards on most saws either. Trying to run a thin strip through and under a guard with a thin push stick doesn't necessarily reduce the chance of kickback vs the grripper. True there is plastic between your hand and the blade but it is more sturdy and stable than a guard attached to a riving knife that can shift into the teeth with surprisingly little effort. I've shattered a guard and although my hand was not close to the blade, shards of plastic ended up in my cheek. Not advocating taking off guards but most are designed pretty minimally. Dave

[Rod Sheridan]

Right, that's why for some processes at work you are trained to remove the guards, since fighting them is less safe. Single-paradigm thinking leads to accidents.

I've never seen any industrial workplace where people are trained to remove the guards. I would like to see supporting documentation on that please.

If the guard makes a job unsafe, you have 2 options

1) use a different design of guard

2) use a different machine that's capable of performing the work with suitable guards in place. An example would be cutting rebates on the shaper as opposed to the table saw.

Most of the issues I've seen with narrow objects on the table saw are solved by keeping the guard and changing to the correct style of fence for the operation.

regards, Rod.

[Mike Holbrook]

I have one of the older model GRR. I was recently making raised pannels using a router table. I bought the newer model GRR advanced 3D with the bottom plate and holding hook (the one on the plate) to use to guide copes and sticks over router blades. The 3D model, IMHO (in my humble opinion) has significant improvements, sort of similar to coping sleds. I also bought a GRR Rip Block, which is great for holding pieces against the table. This combo is more versatile in terms of what it can do, although it may not work for everything.

There is a new attachment for theses tools called a Deflector Connector, which can be used to connect two devices together, leaving a clear view. It can also run against the fence, allowing the user to move the supports to a location outside the blade, for those uncomfortable running their hand over a turning blade. All are available on Amazon.

[Edwin Santos]

I have one of the older model GRR. I was recently making raised pannels using a router table. I bought the newer model GRR advanced 3D with the bottom plate and holding hook (the one on the plate) to use to guide copes and sticks over router blades. The 3D model, IMHO (in my humble opinion) has significant improvements, sort of similar to coping sleds.


Mike,
How exactly do you use a GRR in place of a coping sled to do cope cuts on the ends of rails? I just looked through their website and cannot see that operation illustrated. I'm thinking you might be using the large stabilizing plate in some way. Thanks
Edwin

[Mike Holbrook]

Hi Edwin,

There is a YouTube video showing how to make a jig with a GRR 3D as a coping sled that has a method for doing that. I did not go to that trouble. I just used a scrap, same thickness, to rest the rail/cope on. I used my GRR 3D to hold the rail/cope against the, sacrficial piece of wood, while it held the scrap against the fence. The bottom plate on the GRR 3D has a hook that in conjunction with the bottom plate held the sacrificail piece firmly in place. My hands were further away from the moving blade and both the cope and sacrificial piece were held much more securely against the fence than with the tradional method of hand holding the cope against a scrap.

[Edwin Santos]

Hi Edwin,

There is a YouTube video showing how to make a jig with a GRR 3D as a coping sled that has a method for doing that. I did not go to that trouble. I just used a scrap, same thickness, to rest the rail/cope on. I used my GRR 3D to hold the rail/cope against the, sacrficial piece of wood, while it held the scrap against the fence. The bottom plate on the GRR 3D has a hook that in conjunction with the bottom plate held the sacrificail piece firmly in place. My hands were further away from the moving blade and both the cope and sacrificial piece were held much more securely against the fence than with the tradional method of hand holding the cope against a scrap.

Mike,
I found the YouTube video you mentioned, and now your description makes perfect sense. I have the original GRR, not the 3D and I use it a lot, but not nearly to its potential. Many thanks,
Edwin

[Mike Holbrook]

Edwin,

Glad to be of service. The Deflector Coonector was the only piece I bought to supplement my original GRR that I may wind up not finding useful. I may make a wider clear piece that will fit in the same screw holes as the Deflecor Connector. Such a clear piece would serve a similar purpose as the clear guard on a Woodpecker coping Sled.

I like having two GRR’s. The older model works great as a second feeder for longer work. I did discover that a Feather board or two, on either side of the hole in the fence for the router bit, may be handy for long pieces that nay flex up above the router bit without something to hlod them down on the table. I was using a plastic/wood that flexed up a great deal in the center of the table. One feathrboard on the far side of the bit will work well if one is using a GRR to hold near side of wood against the fence and table.

[George Bokros]

Ah, I'm going to look at how it or the block can work though, since the pads sometimes slip on some wood, and I'd love something with a hook or ledge.

You need to periodically clean the Grr-Ripper and the GrrrRipper pad with denatured alcohol.

[Julie Moriarty]

I bought the pair combo and love them. Today I ripped some pretty thin sitka spruce and was really glad I had them. To me they are invaluable.

[Marshall Harrison]

Well, I guess I'll be ordering at least one Grr-Ripper after all of the positive responses.

Thanks everyone.

[Nick Decker]

You need to periodically clean the Grr-Ripper and the GrrrRipper pad with denatured alcohol.

Or a quick wipe on your jeans, anything to get the sawdust off does wonders.

[Simon MacGowen]

Or a quick wipe on your jeans, anything to get the sawdust off does wonders.

You and George are proof that most people don't read user's manuals but do pay good attention to (well-produced) instructional DVDs!:D

Simon

[Charlie Hinton]

I have two of them and I use them all the time on the tablesaw and the jointer.
Only regret is not getting them sooner.

[glenn bradley]

The extra money for the 200 is more economical than adding those additional accessories later.

[Marshall Harrison]

The extra money for the 200 is more economical than adding those additional accessories later.

Thanks Glenn. I was thinking about getting one 100 and one 200. I don't see much need for getting multiple 200s.

[Marshall Harrison]

I just ordered the Grr-Ripper 100. I'll add the 200 when I can afford to add another one.

[Al Launier]

I was initially hesitant when considering whether or not to buy one. The Lowe's had a sale on the push pads for $5/ea and I picked up a couple. I liked them immediately for use on the TS, router & jointer & soon after decided to purchase the Grr-Ripper Advanced Model (https://www.microjig.com/products/grr-ripper) despite wondering if it would be a PITA to adjust its use each time. Frankly, I was pleased. Getting used to it took a couple of applications, but it got easier & its safety features are good. I've used it on the table saw, router table & have learned to overcome its limited height capacity with wooden elevator blocks if needed. However, the 1/8" leg is vulnerable should one attempt to slice something to 1/8" thickness, or close to it. I tried this & apparently didn't hold the leg tightly enough against the fence. The leg was no longer 1/8" thick. So, I ordered a replacement & the CS rep actually threw in 2 extras. Now I have three 1/8" legs. How good is that!
Nevertheless, I'm going back to slicing off the end of stock so the thin piece is not between the blade & the fence.

[Keith Hankins]

well, I've had two of them since they came out. I love it, use them all the time, and over time have replaced a lot of the little rubber things. I use two so I can walk a board through hand over hand method to keep equal constant pressure on both sides of the blades.

Prior to upgrading to the sawstop that has the great riving knife, I also had the micro jig that went great together.

The've a tadd more expensive now, but I still consider them essential.

Where I really appreciate is cutting that tiny cutoff piece. You keep total control. I would never attempt the cut with a normal push stick for those thin cuts.

great vid here
https://youtu.be/WSDhUdxl-C4

[Carlos Alvarez]

I needed to make a bunch of 1" wide and 3/8" thick Wenge strips yesterday. I tried using other methods, but everything was far scarier to use. Pushing them with a stick as the piece gets narrower and narrower does help boost my cardio for the day however.