plexi-glass shield and guard for wood lathe

[mark ahlenius]

Hi

When I purchased my old Delta wood lathe it came with a number of tools and a few attachments. One of which was the very nice plexiglass shield and the wire guard. I've never used it and its been sitting in the corner of my basement since I go the lathe. I just always use a safety glasses or a full face shield when turning.

it has a bracket which was retrofitted on the lathe to hold it. If memory serves me right, its installation was an insurance company requirement for the woodshop it came from.

I'm wondering from the expertise in this forum the usefulness of this device.

Is this worth using for turning or perhaps selling or just an item for the junk collector?

thank you

'mark

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[Chris A Lawrence]

Depends on what kinds of wood you turn. If you turn structurally sound wood its probably not needed. If you turn questionable wood that could potentially blow up while spinning it would be beneficial.

[Bill Boehme]

Your faceshield and safety glasses provide virtually no protection except for protection from bits of bark and similar small pieces. The lathe mounted Plexiglas shield on the other hand does provide significant impact protection from large pieces. I think that it's worth keeping ... and actually using when you are turning something that has the potential of flying apart.

[Bill Blasic]

I would be very careful about trusting plexiglas. We used it once for demoing and a piece came loose and went right through it. We then went to Lexan which we could not break with a hammer.

[Mike Nathal]

Read the American Woodturner June 2014 article by Lynne Yamaguchi for compelling reasoning on lathe screens as well as headgear.

[Barry McFadden]

Your faceshield and safety glasses provide virtually no protection except for protection from bits of bark and similar small pieces. The lathe mounted Plexiglas shield on the other hand does provide significant impact protection from large pieces. I think that it's worth keeping ... and actually using when you are turning something that has the potential of flying apart.

I would be interested in what information you base your comment of "virtually no protection" with a faceshield on. I have been hit in the face with pieces much larger than small pieces of bark and had no problem at all wearing the faceshield. Here's a look at an entire bowl coming off and hitting the faceshield with no harm done.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mH5f2_KyZ5c

[JohnC Lucas]

I agree. Although I think in some cases a face shield is limited protection. A good face shield would reduce or deflect the impact considerably. Granted a guard over the lathe would be better. I have also been hit in the face shield by a fairly substantical piece. Knocked me down and broke the face shield but I was fine. I use the Uvex face shield that I think is quite a bit stronger than the flat face shields.
https://www.amazon.com/Uvex-Bionic-Polycarbonate-Anti-Fog-S8510/dp/B001VY3ACE/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1523281461&sr=8-4&keywords=face+shield.

[Reed Gray]

To me, like Carl said in his video, first line of defense is standing out of the line of fire. The piece he was turning went pretty much straight up, and I don't know if it came off going up or bounced off of the tool rest. Most face shields are made to 'deflect' rather than take head on impact of anything more than shavings and small chunks. Polycarbonate is a standard for clear non shattering material. For the sloppy wet wood I turn, it wouldn't be much help because I wouldn't be able to see through it after about 30 seconds.

robo hippy

[Alex Zeller]

I doubt it's plexiglass. Usually for something where impact protecting is it's job polycarbonate (Lexan) is used. Unlike plexiglass it won't shatter. I've always been the type of person where unless there's a reason to get rid of it, like I need the space or it's tying up money, I keep it. You never know what will change in the future.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

As one of 3 people that I personally know that uses the provided guard, I would recommend using the guard. As mentioned, "plexiglass" is not that great in actual protection. And any lexan/acrylic as Robo says gets dirty surprisingly quick. I'd ditch that if it is plexi.
Painting the guard flat black makes it a bit easier to see through. I still also use a faceshield and safety glasses as the cage does not stop the little stuff, which the faceshield does. I use glasses since I have been hit in the eye (no injury) with a shard that bounced off my smock under the faceshield.

[Sam Beagle]

I have a 3520B and always use my shroud as a protector. I know some people don’t. But it’s saved me more than once from eating a big chunk of cedar.

[Bill Boehme]

As others have said, it was probably just an assumption that the plastic is Plexiglas which is a brand name of acrylic plastic that isn't intended to provide impact protection. No doubt, the plastic is actually polycarbonate (Lexan) which is the material used in faceshields and is impact rated.

To Barry, the packaging that your faceshield came in states the level of impact defined by ANSI Z87. If you didn't read it, you can Google ANSI Z87. Something worth being aware of is that all of the energy of an impact gets absorbed by your head. So while a faceshied might save your face from major lacerations, there may be hidden damage to your brain. If the impact is hard enough to ring your bell or make you see stars then there is no doubt that your brain has also been injured.

[Barry McFadden]

As others have said, it was probably just an assumption that the plastic is Plexiglas which is a brand name of acrylic plastic that isn't intended to provide impact protection. No doubt, the plastic is actually polycarbonate (Lexan) which is the material used in faceshields and is impact rated.

To Barry, the packaging that your faceshield came in states the level of impact defined by ANSI Z87. If you didn't read it, you can Google ANSI Z87. Something worth being aware of is that all of the energy of an impact gets absorbed by your head. So while a faceshied might save your face from major lacerations, there may be hidden damage to your brain. If the impact is hard enough to ring your bell or make you see stars then there is no doubt that your brain has also been injured.

Good information Bill.... I've had 3 concussions that I know of.... none from woodturning!!!!... I turn mostly kiln dried hardwood which is fairly safe as long as it's chucked properly but when I'm doing spalted wood or burls I tend to stand out of the way until it's turned down and seems fairly stable...

[Michael Mills]

OT from the original "guard" question but be aware there are differences in the Z87 ratings.
Short..
Z87 must withstand a 1" steel ball dropped from fifty (50) inches.
However with the + rating (Z87+) it must withstand a pointed object about 1.4 pounds dropped from the same fifty inches and it must also pass a 1/4 inch steel ball projected at about 100 mph. If it has the + rating it must be embossed on the lens and each part of the frame.

Even with the + there is not a lot of protection imho. I have the Bionic with the + and I can flex the shield easily between a thumb and one finger. About the same resistance as a paper file folder but it can help deflect or keep items out of the eye. The frame of the Bionic should help a lot but I did see one posting where the upper frame itself broke from the impact.

[mark ahlenius]

Ok all appreciate the advice.

I actually misspoke calling it plexiglass, it just looks like plexi, but I have no way of knowing. Its designed and constructed very well. I was asking because from both the class I took on beginning turning a few yeas back and all the vids I've watched on line and on fine woodworking, I've never seen one used. Of course it would get in the way of any decent camera angles and the like.

best

'mark

[James A. Brown]

I am a little different than most here being a machinist and toolmaker and for over 40 years worked with metal, much of it on lathes of all sizes. I always used safety glasses and sometimes used a face shield but that was very rare, usually only if using a "tool post grinder." When I started very few people ever used a face shield and no one ever heard of some sort of a guard on a lathe. Now after having a wood lathe for about 10 years at home I do things the same way. I guess it is just what you learn and are comfortable with. Jim.

[John K Jordan]

Ok all appreciate the advice.

I actually misspoke calling it plexiglass, it just looks like plexi, but I have no way of knowing. Its designed and constructed very well. I was asking because from both the class I took on beginning turning a few yeas back and all the vids I've watched on line and on fine woodworking, I've never seen one used. Of course it would get in the way of any decent camera angles and the like.


A safety shield made correctly would probably be made from polycarbonate (lexan), not plexiglass, although I suspect very thick plexiglass might work OK. I've used both and can tell by drawing the point of a knife across the surface - plexiglass will scratch easily but the lexan will feel softer and tend to deform, at least the lexan I've had in hand. Another way is to support the plastic with a piece of wood or something in the corner and try to drive a nail through the corner close to the edge. If it cracks or shatters it is not lexan and I would not trust it to protect from a significant impact. A nail on lexan would just make a dent and probably bounce back. (I once shot a 9mm bullet at a piece of about 1/4" lexan and the impact deformed the plastic but did not break it or go through. The lexan absorbed the impact and the bullet actually bounced back a little, leaving a big depression on one side and a raised hump on the back side.)

JKJ

[Joe Shanaphy]

I've wondered about either making or buying a shroud for my G0766 ... does anyone know if there is any aftermarket shroud/protector available?

[Paul Gilbert]

I am curious about shroud usage. Mine (from a PM 3520B) got hidden behind the dust collector immediately upon uncrating the lathe. I have been to numerous symposiums and other turners shops, but I have never seen one actually in use.

[Don Bunce]

Joe,
As Paul just mentioned,there are many PM3520 owners out there that don't use the guard. A WTB In the classified should find someone in your area that would be willing to part with theirs.

[John Welty]

A beginning wood turner here.
I am using the face guard made by Stihl for chainsaw work. Its a heavy screen as compared to lexan. My line of thinking is, no scratching, no static, no fogging and in my mind a chainsaw face guard should be pretty safe for protection. And the price wasn't bad, think I paid maybe $45 for it with ear protection when I do the dreaded chainsaw work on a downed tree.
Anyone else tried one or think its safe enough for lathe work??

[John K Jordan]

A beginning wood turner here.
I am using the face guard made by Stihl for chainsaw work. Its a heavy screen as compared to lexan. My line of thinking is, no scratching, no static, no fogging and in my mind a chainsaw face guard should be pretty safe for protection. And the price wasn't bad, think I paid maybe $45 for it with ear protection when I do the dreaded chainsaw work on a downed tree.
Anyone else tried one or think its safe enough for lathe work??

Those are great, extremely quick to put on and off, good hard hat and hearing protection. I have three with the Stihl name and don't start a chainsaw without wearing one. I had the hard hat on one save my noggin from a good smack from a branch. For those unfamiliar with these, a picture:

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I imagine the wire screen will protect well from chips and light impact. I think the screen is more flexible than the face shields I use at the lathe so it might deform more from a hard impact. The brim of the hard hat may help a lot. (I did not compare mine with a face shield by smacking them with a 2x4!)

Dust will still come through and around the screen. If I remember correctly, Stihl recommends wearing safety glasses underneath. Good safety glasses might also save an eye from a hard impact. I admit to omitting the safety glasses for most chain sawing.

JKJ

[John K Jordan]

Joe,
As Paul just mentioned,there are many PM3520 owners out there that don't use the guard. A WTB In the classified should find someone in your area that would be willing to part with theirs.

I might have a few surplus Jet 1642 cages in a storage shed or barn. I'm not interested in selling but I might give one away to someone interested in protecting his/her face (assuming I can locate it!) Should work with any lathe; mounting would require making a bracket.

[Paul Gilbert]

Yes, me too. Any one who wants to drive to Allen, TX (a suburb of Dallas) is welcome to mine.

[Leo Van Der Loo]

You think a face shield would have helped him, or a more reasonable speed while turning ??

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[Bill Boehme]

..... I have the Bionic with the + and I can flex the shield easily between a thumb and one finger. About the same resistance as a paper file folder but it can help deflect or keep items out of the eye. The frame of the Bionic should help a lot but I did see one posting where the upper frame itself broke from the impact.

Most people assume that a polycarbonate face shield that is thin and flexes easily isn't as good as a thicker and more rigid shield. That seems like a logical assumption. However, just the opposite is true. A shield that flexes slows the speed of the impact down and stretches out the time of the impact so that the total energy is spread out over a longer period of time which means that the peak force will be lower that using a thick rigid faceshield. An analogy would be the crumple zones in an automobile that slow down a collision, spreading the total energy out over a longer period of time, and reducing the peak force of an impact.

However, the protection that a faceshield can provide is basically against small objects. It's not much better even with the helmets like the 3M Airstream or Versaflo. The moral of the story is don't make your face shield your first line of defense. It should be the last ditch hope to possiblyreduce the damage when all else fails.