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Bruce Volden
04-07-2018, 3:10 PM
After having to re-string my pull start rope several times over the years I am considering using my battery powered drill to turn it over in place of rope start.
I intend to get a 1/4" X 1/2" adapter to hold the 15/16" socket.
My drill is a 20V Dewalt and am hoping it isn't too under powered. I say this because I run straight 30W oil in the splitter.
It gets cold here in the winter and the splitter is a beast to fire up!

I'm going to drain the oil and use 0-40 synthetic next season hoping for easier start.

Does this seem like it "might" work??? Anyone try this??

Bruce

Pat Barry
04-07-2018, 4:27 PM
It sounds like a bad thing to try. What happens if it actually does start the motor. How will you disengage the drill before it breaks your wrist?

Lee Schierer
04-07-2018, 4:29 PM
It sounds like a bad thing to try. What happens if it actually does start the motor. How will you disengage the drill before it breaks your wrist?

Exactly. Most power starters have torque releases. A better bet is to keep your log splitter motor tuned up properly so that it is easy to start.

Bruce Wrenn
04-07-2018, 8:31 PM
I know Lowes sells a kit for some of the two cycle gas powered trimmers. You might want to take a look and see if it could be adapted to your use. You didn't say what brand and HP the engine on your log splitter was, so I can't add anything else. I used to have a 6.0 Hp electric start on mine. Since changing to a newer B&S engine, starting isn't a problem, but I'm not in SD. Take look at the Preddittor from HF. I know a lot of carters are running them now instead of Briggs.

michael langman
04-08-2018, 11:12 AM
Use starting fluid spray to make it much easier to turn over the engine. And it starts much quicker too. Spray a 3 second burst into spark plug hole.

Bruce Volden
04-08-2018, 12:12 PM
I should have included the facts of,
12.5 HP Briggs engine,
VERY hard to pull start in cold weather, warm weather is fine,
I keep it well tuned.

I'm still thinking of trying the drill motor start. Seems to work for a lot of you-tubers:confused:

Bruce

Pat Barry
04-08-2018, 2:31 PM
If you do this please let us know how it works. Thanks

Bruce Wrenn
04-08-2018, 8:32 PM
I should have included the facts of,
12.5 HP Briggs engine,
VERY hard to pull start in cold weather, warm weather is fine,
I keep it well tuned.

I'm still thinking of trying the drill motor start. Seems to work for a lot of you-tubers:confused:

BruceFind a used riding mower with 12 HP Briggs engine. Remove flywheel from you log splitter, and replace it with the one from riding mower, along with starter motor, solinoid, and battery. I wouldn't worry too much about hooking up flywheel generator, but keep battery connected to to a "Battery Tender." I did this on my 10 HP Briggs generator several years ago.

Tom M King
04-09-2018, 3:31 PM
I was sort of glad when the last B&S motor finally wore out too badly to bother fixing it. Both the power washer, and blower came with 11hp B&S Industrial/Commercial motors. The blower came from a rental place, and they sold it because "women couldn't start it". Those motors always had some sort of problem. I've never owned harder to start motors on anything. They have both been replaced with Honda 13hp motors. They're easy to pull start now, and have been running trouble free for several years, usually starting on the first pull.

Bill Orbine
04-09-2018, 6:33 PM
The hydraulics on the splitter also contributes to harder starting in the winter.....not just the motor oil in the crankcase. I place a small ceramic heater near my hydro drive garden tractor the night before snowstorm to warm up little bit. It turns over much easier.

Bruce Volden
04-09-2018, 7:24 PM
The hydraulics on the splitter also contributes to harder starting in the winter.....not just the motor oil in the crankcase. I place a small ceramic heater near my hydro drive garden tractor the night before snowstorm to warm up little bit. It turns over much easier.

I should also add that I will be replacing the hydraulic fluid and be using ATF if place of. This should also cut down on the resistance of cold starting.
Gotta get this all figgered out as I need to start splitting for next winter already. I DO NOT split wood when it's hot out, too old and lazy!

Bruce

Jason Roehl
04-10-2018, 6:22 AM
I've done this on somewhat smaller engines--5 to 8 hp. The key is listening for the engine to just barely start to catch and pull the drill off. A friend tried it, and he snapped the square drive bit I was using.

Jerome Stanek
04-10-2018, 6:32 AM
they make a drill adapter to do this. it has an over running clutch on it so when the engine starts it lets it spin without pinning the drill

Dan Hunkele
04-10-2018, 8:56 AM
Check the flywheel and see if there is a ring gear on it. If it is there all you have to do is buy a starter and bolt it on. Get a jump starter pack to supply the battery juice.

John K Jordan
04-10-2018, 1:56 PM
Use starting fluid spray to make it much easier to turn over the engine. And it starts much quicker too. Spray a 3 second burst into spark plug hole.

When needed, I spray a bit of starting fluid on or under the air filter. This is easier than taking out the spark plug and always works for me. On one of my zero-turn mowers that gets used only rarely I drilled a small hole in the plastic air filter housing just for spraying a bit of starting fluid. It doesn't take much.

JKJ

michael langman
04-10-2018, 2:24 PM
I like the idea of the hole in the air cleaner housing cover John. Thanks.

John K Jordan
04-10-2018, 5:17 PM
I like the idea of the hole in the air cleaner housing cover John. Thanks.

For equipment only rarely used I generally plug the hole with a small stick or something so I don't invite even small insects that build nests to take up residence. The hole is about the size of a straw on a can of wd-40.

Bill Dufour
04-10-2018, 9:39 PM
I recommend the hole allow you to spray the outside of the filter. No need to get the ether into the carb directly. Soaking the filter paper is good enough and less likely to break the engine by preignition or liquid lock.
Bil lD.

Bill Orbine
04-11-2018, 9:45 AM
I recommend the hole allow you to spray the outside of the filter. No need to get the ether into the carb directly. Soaking the filter paper is good enough and less likely to break the engine by preignition or liquid lock.
Bil lD.

At the risk of backfire igniting the filter, no thank you!

Pat Barry
04-11-2018, 11:10 AM
I recommend the hole allow you to spray the outside of the filter. No need to get the ether into the carb directly. Soaking the filter paper is good enough and less likely to break the engine by preignition or liquid lock.
Bil lD.
i believe starting fluid is designed to be directly injected into the carburetor intake, not onto the air cleaner. Dont spray it onto the air cleaner, that's just not efficient use of the product and poses fire dangers.

John K Jordan
04-11-2018, 2:39 PM
i believe starting fluid is designed to be directly injected into the carburetor intake, not onto the air cleaner. Dont spray it onto the air cleaner, that's just not efficient use of the product and poses fire dangers.

Might be a fire hazard but I don't see how unless you spray it on a hot engine or maybe if you have bad spark plug wires and sprayed way too much. In fact, spraying on the filter might prevent an over-zealous person from spraying too much directly into the carburetor which can be bad. Can't see myself spraying it on a hot engine since I only use it when the engine is cold and stubborn from sitting for six months.

Even when spraying on the outside of the filter the vapors outside are well dissipated almost instantly. In fact, the fluid evaporates so quickly you have to try starting the engine immediately after spraying or it's all gone. Spraying on the air filter usually still gets enough vapor into the intake of the carb to allow the engine to start. In cases where it doesn't, I'll sometimes pop open the air cleaner housing and lift and spray a 1-second shot behind the air filter element. (Unless it's the one engine I where I drilled the tiny "primer" hole in the air filter housing - that is equivalent to spraying into the carb intake.)

There is another way that usually works well I have used for chain saw engines - take out the spark plug, walk away from the chainsaw and warm the working end a little with a propane torch, then quickly re-insert and try starting. This is surprisingly effective, especially if there is a bit of oily residue on the plug in a 2-stroke engine. Of course this could be a fire hazard if one fired up the propane torch near a gas can or tank...

JKJ

John K Jordan
04-11-2018, 2:45 PM
At the risk of backfire igniting the filter, no thank you!

If you get back fire I suspect you are probably using too much starting fluid or your valves are in really bad shape. To get enough backfire to set a filter on fire would take spraying WAY too much. A second or less of spray should be all that's needed if it's going to work at all. This is just my experience over 40+ years, mostly with older engines. (Since they are usually the ones the need encouragement.)

JKJ

Larry Edgerton
04-11-2018, 3:39 PM
Use starting fluid spray to make it much easier to turn over the engine. And it starts much quicker too. Spray a 3 second burst into spark plug hole.

That way when it detonates and blows out the rings you can buy a new one that starts.:D

michael langman
04-11-2018, 4:39 PM
Never had a problem in the many years I have been doing this. Rings are easily replaced on most good engines.
It only takes about 1 1/2 teaspoons of starter fluid to start a good engine. And if you get the right starter fluid they have added a good oil to lubricate the cylinder when doing this.
The older stihl chainsaws were very hard to start without the compression release, and the starter fluid greatly eased the pull on the starter rope.
My emergency generator also was very hard starting after setting all year between starts. The starter fluid started it up quickly and easily also.

Thomas L Carpenter
04-11-2018, 5:17 PM
As someone who has burned a lab down igniting a can of ethyl ether, I drill a hole in the air filter housing and squirt a SMALL amount of starter fluid. Been doing it for years with no fires.

Bruce Wrenn
04-11-2018, 9:27 PM
Just wondering what size hydraulic cylinder you have on your log splitter that requires a 12 HP engine to run it? My 4" only needs a 5.0 HP engine.

Bill Orbine
04-11-2018, 9:47 PM
If you get back fire I suspect you are probably using too much starting fluid or your valves are in really bad shape. To get enough backfire to set a filter on fire would take spraying WAY too much. A second or less of spray should be all that's needed if it's going to work at all. This is just my experience over 40+ years, mostly with older engines. (Since they are usually the ones the need encouragement.)

JKJ

I'm sorry...I strongly disagree. The procedure of soaking filter is risky and dangerous. Older engines are often to have problems that you need to use starting fluid.

John K Jordan
04-12-2018, 5:57 AM
I'm sorry...I strongly disagree. The procedure of soaking filter is risky and dangerous. Older engines are often to have problems that you need to use starting fluid.

I don't think I could soak the 24 sq inch filter with a 1 second spray. It would be trivial to rig a test - I'll ask my friend Joe if he has time, right up his alley.

But no need to be sorry! I think it's legal (and healthy) to disagree. I suggest any reader not comfortable with this (or any) method do something different.

Back on the thread topic, I've long wished small engines came with an external 1/2" square socket for starting with an electric motor such as on a cordless drill/impact driver. To prevent the arm twisting mentioned it could be built into the ratchet on the recoil starter, or coupled with a uni-directional ramped connector. Even a larger engine could be started with the small 12v starter motor such as on my sawmill or a riding mower.

JKJ

Bruce Volden
04-12-2018, 9:10 AM
Just wondering what size hydraulic cylinder you have on your log splitter that requires a 12 HP engine to run it? My 4" only needs a 5.0 HP engine.

I guess I never thought about the size. It's rated 35 ton.

Bruce

Larry Edgerton
04-13-2018, 5:57 AM
A lot of snowblowers have that size motor with 110v electric starters, they seldom break and should be available in junkyards or ebay. Better yet, buy a Honda.

Ronald Blue
04-14-2018, 5:48 PM
I should also add that I will be replacing the hydraulic fluid and be using ATF if place of. This should also cut down on the resistance of cold starting.
Gotta get this all figgered out as I need to start splitting for next winter already. I DO NOT split wood when it's hot out, too old and lazy!

Bruce

While ATF will work check into ISO 32 hydraulic oil. It's what we run in our northern equipment. It is the equivalent of 10 weight. It is designed for the temperature ranges you will likely use. I haven't compared cost but You probably don't need more than 5 gallon. While you probably have a gear type pump which is the most forgiving of all hydraulic pumps the higher quality of the ISO 32 will extend the life. I will assume you have a filter on the log splitter as well. Changing it annually is good preventive maintenace. Clean oil is the "blood" it lives on. The suggestion of swapping the flywheel and shroud to add the electric start capability is a great one. If you don't want to add a battery then put a plug on your vehicle to plug it in for starting off your vehicle battery. Something like the attached link.
amazon.com/Alfa-Wheels-Premium-Disconnect-Capacity/dp/B01MTCSV99/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1523742212&sr=8-4&keywords=jumper+cable+quick+disconnect