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dennis thompson
04-03-2018, 5:31 AM
What 10" blade would you recommend to make picture frames? I will be using it in my table saw.
Thanks

Phil Mueller
04-03-2018, 6:24 AM
Hi Dennis, I did some research on this a few years back. I can’t find where I read the recommendation, but it was to use a 80 tooth, ATB, thin curf, with a slight negative rake. I used it for a number of frames and it left a beautiful cut. Never did compare it to other blades, but I suppose one could argue any fine finish blade would work.

Lee Schierer
04-03-2018, 9:06 AM
I've used my Freud LU 73M 10 for picture frames. I always coat both sides of the miter joint with glue and have not had a joint failure. I clamp the frames with a four corner clamp.

Gary Breckenridge
04-03-2018, 1:04 PM
Any quality blade without a bent tooth will work; glue fills the gaps. The trick is getting a good 45 degree angle. I always cut some scrap wood for a simple square to fine tune the angle. Put a rubber band around the square and check the angle.

glenn bradley
04-03-2018, 1:07 PM
The more complex the profile the higher tooth count I would want. For rather square profiles I will even use a 50 tooth.

383028

For provincial, astral and so forth I move to a 60 tooth or 80 tooth depending on material.

383029

Although you are cutting at an angle, you are still crosscutting.

Mel Fulks
04-03-2018, 2:02 PM
With a 45 mitre one side of the blade is cutting with the grain and the other side is cutting against the grain. I use the coarsest (fewest toothed) blade that works. Cutting real slowly causes more blade wear,but I find that sometimes it's
neccesary with mitres or I have to do some by hand adjustment to unflat surfaces.