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View Full Version : What is the plane I am looking for called, and can anyone post some pictures, please?



Mike Baker 2
03-30-2018, 8:21 PM
I have an Antique Mall close by. There is a booth there which has probably 40 or 50 old wooden planes. I'm pretty sure they have what I'm looking for.
What is the name of the plane used to cut dados in the sides of drawers that the bottoms slide into?
And can someone post pictures, tell me what to look for, how to tell if it's all there and works properly?
Thank you in advance.

steven c newman
03-30-2018, 8:34 PM
eh...could be..
382758
A Plough plane?

I gave up on this one (fence issues) and started using a Stanley 45 to mill the GROOVES for drawer bottoms to slide into..
382759
Something like this?

Derek Cohen
03-30-2018, 9:21 PM
I have an Antique Mall close by. There is a booth there which has probably 40 or 50 old wooden planes. I'm pretty sure they have what I'm looking for.
What is the name of the plane used to cut dados in the sides of drawers that the bottoms slide into?
And can someone post pictures, tell me what to look for, how to tell if it's all there and works properly?
Thank you in advance.

My money is on the plane below, which is half a set of a match plane .... used for tongue-and-groove joinery. The "plough" half can be used as a drawer grooving plane. The one below is 1/4" ...

https://s19.postimg.org/t6udk6cxv/Drawerplane1.jpg

I did use this plane for a while, probably about 15 years ago after Rob Cosman alerted many to it (and then began making and selling the,). However I found the fixed fence limiting - I preferred to vary where I placed a drawer groove, and then I stopped making grooves, and instead began using slips.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Edit to add a p.s. Mike, you used "dado", but I assumed you meant "groove", since you are mentioned "drawer". A dado runs across the grain. A groove runs with the grain.

Mike Baker 2
03-30-2018, 9:34 PM
Thanks for the reply, gentlemen.
Derek, I used the wrong terminology because I don't(or didn't) know any better. Still a rank beginner here. Both you and Steven caught it and were kind enough to correct it, but also to see what I wanted and supply the information I needed. Thanks to both for that.

Derek Cohen
03-30-2018, 9:48 PM
Hey Mike, no criticism intended. I call things by the wrong name constantly! I just blame it on the colour of my hair :)

You have not said whether the planes above were the one you saw.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Jim Koepke
03-30-2018, 9:50 PM
Mike,

There is an informative archive that is somewhat hidden and has not been maintained of late:

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?103805-Neanderthal-wisdom-FAQs

There are many resources contained in the links on that page. This one:

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?116419-Planes-and-a-Few-Things-to-Look-For

Has a post on the Stanley #45 and what to look for when purchasing one of them.

This one:

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?121761-Specialty-Planes-for-quot-Neanderthal-Wisdom-quot

Has a bit more information on the Stanley #45.

For plowing slots for drawer bottoms a Stanley #50 works well. It is smaller than the #45. There are many other small plow planes that would work well for plowing slots in box and drawer bottoms.

Some folks will use a router plane. The router plane would require a bit more care, work and skill to finish the job.

jtk

Mike Baker 2
03-30-2018, 9:58 PM
Derek, I haven't seen; I'm asking what type of plane to look for. But I'm starting to think I might try making a plough plane instead.
I want one that will cut a 1/4" groove, 1/4" away from the edge of the board. Now I just have to find instruction on making it.
Paul Sellers has a video on making a rebate plane. I'm thinking I might be able to adapt it for the purpose. But not out of pine; I have some 8/4 White Ash I'm thinking of using.
https://youtu.be/yTuOtmlRhAI?list=PLqyeNiM0BJuWRLetvknHYT9RFBpY_iUr f

Jim, thanks for the link. I'll hit that hard at a later date.

steven c newman
03-30-2018, 10:05 PM
The was a series of videos on Youtube, supposed to be by GE Hong... ( Traditional Chinese Woodworking) and one of the videos is about how he makes such a plane...

I used another of his to make an "edge plane"
382761
More of a rebate plane, iron is skewed, and has a fence
382762
Might be worth a look see?

Mike Baker 2
03-30-2018, 10:16 PM
Steven, is there a reason why one could not use a plane like the one you picture above to cut a rebate in the sides, and glue the bottom in that way? Or is a glued joint like that not strong or stable enough for a drawer bottom? Or is it planing that in cross grain that is the issue?

steven c newman
03-30-2018, 10:24 PM
No reason...just I don't trust glue alone to hold a bottom in place....but then, I use plywood for my drawer bottoms....

Phil Mueller
03-30-2018, 11:04 PM
Mike, if you use plywood, there is really no reason you can't glue/pin nail it into a rebate. If the bottom is solid wood, you need to allow for expansion/contraction. You trim the bottom slightly undersized and let it "float" in the groove.

Mike Baker 2
03-30-2018, 11:36 PM
No reason...just I don't trust glue alone to hold a bottom in place....but then, I use plywood for my drawer bottoms....


Mike, if you use plywood, there is really no reason you can't glue/pin nail it into a rebate. If the bottom is solid wood, you need to allow for expansion/contraction. You trim the bottom slightly undersized and let it "float" in the groove.
Thanks, both of you.

Jim Koepke
03-30-2018, 11:52 PM
Derek, I haven't seen; I'm asking what type of plane to look for. But I'm starting to think I might try making a plough plane instead.
I want one that will cut a 1/4" groove, 1/4" away from the edge of the board. Now I just have to find instruction on making it.
Paul Sellers has a video on making a rebate plane. I'm thinking I might be able to adapt it for the purpose. But not out of pine; I have some 8/4 White Ash I'm thinking of using.
https://youtu.be/yTuOtmlRhAI?list=PLqyeNiM0BJuWRLetvknHYT9RFBpY_iUr f

Jim, thanks for the link. I'll hit that hard at a later date.

There was an article in Fine Woodworking a few years back on making these. Here is a link that may lead you to find the article in a library or somewhere:

http://www.finewoodworking.com/2009/10/23/shop-made-grooving-planes

jtk

Tom Blank
03-31-2018, 12:39 AM
Another FWW link to a later edition with a downloadable .pdf

http://www.finewoodworking.com/2011/04/07/make-a-pair-of-grooving-planes

Derek Cohen
03-31-2018, 2:24 AM
Derek, I haven't seen; I'm asking what type of plane to look for. But I'm starting to think I might try making a plough plane instead.
I want one that will cut a 1/4" groove, 1/4" away from the edge of the board. Now I just have to find instruction on making it.
Paul Sellers has a video on making a rebate plane. I'm thinking I might be able to adapt it for the purpose. But not out of pine; I have some 8/4 White Ash I'm thinking of using.
https://youtu.be/yTuOtmlRhAI?list=PLqyeNiM0BJuWRLetvknHYT9RFBpY_iUr f

Jim, thanks for the link. I'll hit that hard at a later date.

My apology Mike, I misunderstood - I thought that you had seen a wooden plane already and wanted its name.

The metal plane that Paul Sellers picks up is a copy of the Record #078. The Record #078 is a better version of the Stanley #78 filletster plane. This, and the woodie he builds, are for rebates. This is not what you are seeking for grooves in a drawer or box.

The plane I showed above is for grooves. The plane you want in a plough plane. There are many versions around, the cheapest being the woodie I showed, and then progressing through a Record or Rapier #043, Record #044, Stanley #50, Veritas Small Plough, and woodies with fences. The Stanley #45 is a combination version that includes the ability to plough and rebate. I do not recommend one as a starter plane. Either the Record #044 or Stanley #50 are the best of the mass produced metal ploughs at the affordable end of the spectrum. Move up to the Veritas Small Plough - more expensive but you'll have it working perfectly out of the box. The others will likely need blades to be flattened and tuned.

Regards from Perth

Derek