What material is best for making templates?

[Mike Randall]

I'm new to the forum and new to woodworking so I have a lot to learn. One of my first projects is to make some adirondack chairs. I have a set of some plans (.pdf) and want to make templates for the various parts. My question is, what would be the best material and process for making the templates?

Thanks for your advice in advance.

[Mike Kees]

Welcome to the Creek. I would use 1/8 or 1/4 tempered hardboard. Probably 1/8,it is cheap and durable. Process,do you have a jigsaw ? I usually cut templates on my bandsaw,then smooth with sander our by hand. I dont know what you have for tools so it is hard to give more advice.If you elaborate more on your work area ,tools and skill set more definite answers to your questions will begin to flow. MIke

[Mike Randall]

Welcome to the Creek. I would use 1/8 or 1/4 tempered hardboard. Probably 1/8,it is cheap and durable. Process,do you have a jigsaw ? I usually cut templates on my bandsaw,then smooth with sander our by hand. I dont know what you have for tools so it is hard to give more advice.If you elaborate more on your work area ,tools and skill set more definite answers to your questions will begin to flow. MIke

As I'm just starting out, my work area and tools have been geared towards the home honey-do projects. Work area: a portion of the garage, or driveway, with a workbench, saw horses, etc. Tools: Dewalt job saw, cordless tools (jigsaw, circular saw, drill, impact driver).

In using the templates in the future, I plan on using a router for some of the work. Is there a benefit one way or the other for the template thickness (1/8 vs 1/4)?

[Bill McNiel]

Welcome to the Creek Mike,
I typically use 1/4" MDF for templates, it gives you enough room for the bearing to ride against and stands up to the removal stress of double sided tape better than 1/8" .
Regards - Bill

[Mike Randall]

Welcome to the Creek Mike,
I typically use 1/4" MDF for templates, it gives you enough room for the bearing to ride against and stands up to the removal stress of double sided tape better than 1/8" .
Regards - Bill

It maybe a silly question, it just shows how much of a novice I am, is there specific double sided tape that you have found that you prefer?

-Mike

[Jim Becker]

I also use 1/4" MDF for templates the majority of the time. It's more immediately obtainable than true 1/4" tempered hard board these days...I often buy the 24x48 pieces from the 'borg for that. In fact, it's the only sheet good I ever buy from a home center. LOL

The reason I use the 1/4" material is that it's sturdy, easy to refine the edges after initial cut out and also a useable thickness for template routing. It's also good for certain jigs and using one kind of material for multiple things is more economical. For things I just need a template for simple layout, I'll choose whatever I have lying around including very thin material scraps.

[glenn bradley]

Another 1/4" (and 1/2") MDF user here. I do a lot of templates and get a lot a life out of these. A wipe of shellac or glue size along the edge goes a long way toward increasing that usable life.

[Art Mann]

I like 1/4 inch hardboard but I have also used plywood.

[Michael Pyron]

I prefer 1/4" plywood because it's easier to sand to final template shape...it's very rare that I will go for MDF as I find it far more time consuming to get things just right. Yep, there can be voids in plywood, but a bit of Bondo and you're ready to go!

and one need not use 1/4" for the real thing...there are many times I use 1/4" to make a template master and use 1/2" or 3/4" as my needs dictate (cutting length of a top bearing flush cutting bit can require thicker templates to allow you to make a shallower cut for mortises)

If I plan on using the template for a "while" I'll coat the edges with super glue to harden them up a bit.

In general any template I make is a one job thing (the exception to this concept are my set of templates for routing out Segatsune hidden hinges)

[Bill McNiel]

It maybe a silly question, it just shows how much of a novice I am, is there specific double sided tape that you have found that you prefer?

-Mike

Not even close to a "silly" question on this site, or anywhere else. I have tried a wide variety of tapes and have settled on Fastcap SpeedTape. WoodCraft carries it and I believe it is also available from Amazon. It is easy to get one corner of the backing to peel, holds just the right amount (template doesn't shift but is easy to separate with a 5 in 1 tool), and is pretty easy to remove. I don't like the fiber reinforced kind of tape at all.

[johnny means]

I use 3/4" MDF. I typically nail through the template into the workpiece using micropins. The holes, if visible, are easy to hide.

[Stan Calow]

I use whichever material I have scraps of, including solid wood, if its a usable size.

[Roy Turbett]

Do you guys that use MDF protect the edge of the template with shellac or poly?

[Robert Cherry]

I like 1/2” MDF for routing templates. For my last two projects I had templates CNC cut at a local mill work shop. I harden the edges with some thin CA if they will need to hold up for a lot of parts, but usually it’s not needed with the 1/2”. I also like the 1/2” because if I ding the edge of a template on the corner of a machine it is usually still usable with a quick sanding.

[Mike Kees]

So looks like you got the "Creek" flowing now. I use the 1/8 hardboard for templates to mark and cut ,not for use with a router. I too have used whatever is laying around in my shop. I have not used MDF but maybe I will give it a shot. Mike.

[Dave Zellers]

I use 1/4" MDF and have never sealed the edges but I love the idea. I would use poly. Probably 2 coats, with a quick sand between. I made Adirondack chair templates probably 25 years ago and they still work perfectly. Take the time to make your templates as perfectly as you can, harden the edges with a sealer if you want and when you're done with this project, protect them in a large garbage bag. It will be a HUGE thrill down the road to pull them out and knock out a few chairs effortlessly borrowing from the labor you invested in years before.

In that vein, as you go forward, never throw away a template that you took the time to make, that you think could benefit you later. Bag it up and label it. That label will be your friend 15 years down the road.

Enjoy! Making things from raw materials is fun.

[Edwin Santos]

Hi,
I'm not sure I can tell what kind of templates you mean.
If the template is for a chair leg or part where all I'm using it for is striking lines to saw to at the bandsaw, then I use 1/4" MDF.
If we're talking about router templates then where they're being attached with double stick tape, I use 1/2" mdf, or where I'm using hold down toggle clamps to secure the workpiece I'd use 1/2" or 3/4" MDF depending on what was lying around.
Edwin

[Doug Hepler]

Lots of useful advice already. I will add this: if you plan to use a router with a guide bushing make sure that the template material is thick enough. The first time I tried this I had a bunch of nice, faired, smooth templates in 1/4" Masonite. Then I found out that the guide bushing protruded about 3/8" so I had to kludge a workaround before the router base would ride flat. Likewise, if you use a bearing-guided bit the thickness of the template material vs the width of the bearing might matter.

Doug

[Mike Randall]

Hey everyone, thanks for the great advice. As I mentioned before, I'm new to woodworking and I wasn't sure how "newbie" questions would be received by a gaggle of experienced folks. You're great.

Now to the basic process part. Here's what I'm thinking.

1) Print and cut-out plans
2) Adhere the plans to the plywood/mdf
3) With a jigsaw, that's what I have, cut out the parts a little oversized
4) Sand to the line

On the right track?

Mike

[Mike Randall]

Hi,
I'm not sure I can tell what kind of templates you mean.
If the template is for a chair leg or part where all I'm using it for is striking lines to saw to at the bandsaw, then I use 1/4" MDF.
If we're talking about router templates then where they're being attached with double stick tape, I use 1/2" mdf, or where I'm using hold down toggle clamps to secure the workpiece I'd use 1/2" or 3/4" MDF depending on what was lying around.
Edwin

They would be router templates.

[Bill McNiel]

Hey everyone, thanks for the great advice. As I mentioned before, I'm new to woodworking and I wasn't sure how "newbie" questions would be received by a gaggle of experienced folks. You're great.

Now to the basic process part. Here's what I'm thinking.

1) Print and cut-out plans
2) Adhere the plans to the plywood/mdf
3) With a jigsaw, that's what I have, cut out the parts a little oversized
4) Sand to the line

On the right track? Yes, you are headed in the right direction.

Mike

I use a rasp after rough cutting and before finish edge sanding. BTW- hand sanding tends to round things a bit so be careful.

[andy bessette]

I generally use 1/2" plywood so I can use top-bearing follower bits.

[Jim Becker]

Do you guys that use MDF protect the edge of the template with shellac or poly?

I do not coat them in any way once they are sanded smooth.

[Robert Cherry]

Hey everyone, thanks for the great advice. As I mentioned before, I'm new to woodworking and I wasn't sure how "newbie" questions would be received by a gaggle of experienced folks. You're great.

Now to the basic process part. Here's what I'm thinking.

1) Print and cut-out plans
2) Adhere the plans to the plywood/mdf
3) With a jigsaw, that's what I have, cut out the parts a little oversized
4) Sand to the line

On the right track?

Mike
Yes, exactly right. I use 3M 77 spray adhesive to hold the paper patterns in place. Sand carefully as any irregularities in your routing templates will show up in every piece. When you start working on cutting actual parts, trace your templates onto the part and cut close to the line, but leave the line. I shoot for 1/32” to take off with the router. Anything more becomes difficult. Watch routing end grain as the router bit will grab the workpiece and throw it across the room quicker than you can imagine. Spiral bits work best.

[Dave Zellers]

Yep- just be patient and make your templates accurate and then you enter pattern bit heaven.

Beaker is right about about leaving as little as possible for router trimming. Makes life easier.

[Curt Harms]

Welcome to the Creek Mike,
I typically use 1/4" MDF for templates, it gives you enough room for the bearing to ride against and stands up to the removal stress of double sided tape better than 1/8" .
Regards - Bill

That would be my vote. MDF or 1/4" hardboard, preferably smooth both sides. You want enough material for a router bearing to ride on if that's your plan. If you're just tracing a line it probably wouldn't matter.

[Mike Randall]

Yes, exactly right. I use 3M 77 spray adhesive to hold the paper patterns in place. Sand carefully as any irregularities in your routing templates will show up in every piece. When you start working on cutting actual parts, trace your templates onto the part and cut close to the line, but leave the line. I shoot for 1/32” to take off with the router. Anything more becomes difficult. Watch routing end grain as the router bit will grab the workpiece and throw it across the room quicker than you can imagine. Spiral bits work best.

Thanks Robert. I didn't think about how much material to leave prior to using the router, and I appreciate the caution about using the router.

Speaking of router bits, what should I look for as a quality bit for using with templates?

[Zachary Hoyt]

I like Whiteside router bits best of the ones I have tried, they're not too expensive on eBay or such places and they seem to be of good quality.
Zach