Quick release table saw arbor nut

[David Pascoe]

My work requires that I change saw blades all too frequently, and to make matters worse, my nut on arbor threads, although 23 years old, had gotten rather stiff(probqble dings on threads which I can't see or remove) so that I have to use a wrench several times to get on/off. This makes blade changes much too slow to my liking, so I was wondering if there were some way to make blade changes easier/faster. I see that Delta has "Delta A05487 RH QUICK RELEASE NUT" but I can't find any info about this gizmo. It is basically a nut with two folding wings on it. Has anyone tried one?

What about using a spacer that would limit the number of turns needed to tighten - there's currently 1" of slack threads to take up with each bladed change.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Using Google, ereplacementparts.com shows they are $12.88 and in stock https://www.ereplacementparts.com/quick-release-nut-p-145613.html .

[Matt Day]

Not sure I’d trust a “quick release” nut. A spacer makes sense. Also, try some paraffin wax on the threads to make it easier to spin the nut.

Or buy another saw so you don’t have to change blades so much.

[Carlos Alvarez]

Wow, very cool, ordered. I don't change blades a lot, but had actually been looking at better/faster ways since sometimes I *should* change it more often. I've been using the stock wrenches which is probably far from ideal.

[Peter Christensen]

There is a possibility of the shaft threads being stretched by some goon over tightening the nut in the past and that may be why there are spots that are hard to get the nut past. If a new nut doesn't solve the problem and there are no dents/damage to the threads then look much more closely at the possibility of stretched threads. The diameter will be smaller and the thread crests further apart. The only remedy is a shaft replacement. If left alone the extremely unlikely result is the shaft can fail where the thread is weak.

[Mel Fulks]

I've used saws that had a spacer. Every time you drop it in the saw dust you will think "why do I need a spacer?" Keep a magnet stuck to to the machine. That's a good idea since the nuts get dropped too. I think anyone who walks away from a half set up machine needs to be fired immediately .

[Martin Wasner]

Or buy another saw so you don’t have to change blades so much.

Bingo. That's why we have four tablesaws and a rip saw. Plus a panel saw. It's cheaper in the long run.

Say you are paid $20/hr, but cost $28/hr with unemployment, work comp, taxes, and benefits. Call it $30/hr since it's easier math. It costs a dollar to change that blade if it takes two minutes. Do that five times a day, $10 a day. 208 working days to a year, $2080 per year. Forty year career, $83,200.
That extra saw starts looking pretty cheap playing the long game. Figure in the lost productivity instead of the cost and you'll tear up.

I don't believe in some of the Lean manufacturing principles, but the core one is important. If you're not producing, you're consuming. There's no grey area.

[Carlos Alvarez]

There are some good wood shop process videos over here: https://blog.fastcap.com/lean-videos-sortable/

I completely agree with Martin: Are you making or wasting money?

[John Gornall]

I think that quick release nut is for grinders - my Delta grinder has them

[Bruce Page]

I think that quick release nut is for grinders - my Delta grinder has them

It's also a right hand thread. AFAIK, all modern table saws are left hand.

[Bill Space]

It's also a right hand thread. AFAIK, all modern table saws are left hand.

Really? Seems like a left hand thread would be loosened by the blade, rather than tightened. Of course that is only if the arbor is on the left hand side of the blade, like it is in my table saw.

I guess I need to change my blade more often. I don't recall the thread being left handed, but who knows? Still without checking it sure seems like it should be right handed...:)

OK, on reread perhaps the OP does have a saw with a left handed thread...if so my apologies! Is this the case?

Edit: I guess I am confusing myself. I think all modern saws have right handed threads if the arbor enters the blade from the left side...:confused:

Bill

[Carlos Alvarez]

It's also a right hand thread. AFAIK, all modern table saws are left hand.

Guess I just wasted $15? I should know better than to order a spur of the moment thing on a Monday when my phone has been ringing off the hook and I have 20 support tickets with stupid questions to answer.

[Lee Schierer]

Are you sure that you have the right nut? It should be an ACME thread. You should also be able to order a replacement.

[Martin Wasner]

It's also a right hand thread. AFAIK, all modern table saws are left hand.


Depends what side of the blade the nut is on. Left tilt, it's usually on the right side. Right tilt it's usually on the left. I'm running off of brain power, but I think the powermatic 66 is right hand threads, and the others would be left hand threads.

Usually, I can't think of a case where it's not, but that doesn't mean much. One of the Martin sliders swings both ways. So there's one.

[Joe Jensen]

Another option would be to order an ACME thread die to chase the threads on the arbor. This would clean them up and hopefully make it quicker...joe

[Mike Kees]

Dave you mentioned a Delta nut so I am assuming your saw is Delta. Older or new ? If it is an older Uni or contractor saw with a right tilt there is a guy on the auction site that manufactures arbor nuts that are wider than factory ones. I have purchased some of these and they are way nicer to take on and off than the skinny factory nut.

[Dick Brown]

If the nut is on the right side of the blade, it is right hand tread. Left side, left hand thread. All tighten turning top of the nut to the rear, loosen top turning to the front. The reason for right or left thread is so the resistance of the blade cutting the wood tends to tighten the nut rather than loosen it.

[Bruce Page]

Depends what side of the blade the nut is on. Left tilt, it's usually on the right side. Right tilt it's usually on the left. I'm running off of brain power, but I think the powermatic 66 is right hand threads, and the others would be left hand threads.

Usually, I can't think of a case where it's not, but that doesn't mean much. One of the Martin sliders swings both ways. So there's one.

Yes, you're right. Brain fart, I have only had right tilt table saws and all were left hand thread. Does not necessarily apply to left tilt. Sorry for the confusion.:o

[Curt Harms]

Depends what side of the blade the nut is on. Left tilt, it's usually on the right side. Right tilt it's usually on the left. I'm running off of brain power, but I think the powermatic 66 is right hand threads, and the others would be left hand threads.

Usually, I can't think of a case where it's not, but that doesn't mean much. One of the Martin sliders swings both ways. So there's one.

Does the Martin have 2 smaller holes in the blade in addition to the arbor hole? If so the blade can't spin on the arbor so threading probably doesn't matter much. Back to the topic, right tilt/left thread, left tilt/right thread I think. You want to nut to spin tight when the blade slows. That's why it's not necessary to overdo tightening the nut when changing blades, I just tighten maybe 1/8-1/4 turn past finger tight and have never had a blade slip that I was aware of. Makes it a lot easier to get the nut loose.

[Rod Sheridan]

It's also a right hand thread. AFAIK, all modern table saws are left hand.

That's not correct, the left tilt cabinet saw I had was a right hand thread and my present right tilt saw is a right hand thread, although it's not a nut, it's a cap screw.......Rod.

[Martin Wasner]

Does the Martin have 2 smaller holes in the blade in addition to the arbor hole? If so the blade can't spin on the arbor so threading probably doesn't matter much.


Probably. Most of the modern euro saws I've encountered use a stabilizer with either pins, (that go into the arbor, or holes where pins in the arbor go into the stablizer), and a allen head bolt that goes in the center of it.

My left hand pop up saw has a cap screw that goes into the arbor. I'm pretty sure that's right hand threads as I wrote it on the inside of the access cover. It tends to get REALLY tight after it's been on a long while to the point you question; "am I going the right way with this?"

I can't remember, but I think my Striebig is right hand threads. Hard to describe the orientation of the motor and blade on that since the working face of the tool would be like being on the underside of a tablesaw with your head towards the outfeed.

[Bruce Page]

That's not correct, the left tilt cabinet saw I had was a right hand thread and my present right tilt saw is a right hand thread, although it's not a nut, it's a cap screw.......Rod.

Rod, see post #18

[David Pascoe]

It's also a right hand thread. AFAIK, all modern table saws are left hand.

Delta offers both left and right-hand nuts. I don't worry about loosening as my work is small an I use mostly 7-1/4" blades for a host of reasons, not the least of which cost and safety - less chance of inadvertant contact with a smaller blade.

Yea, I don't tighten much either - never had a bit of slippage because mine IS self-tightening, a right tilt Unisaw. No clue as to what constitutes right or left thread. My threading ON is toward rear of saw when facing it or counter rotation and counter clockwise.

I'll go ahead and buy it, no harm if it does loosen. Just need to know which one to buy.

[Mike Kees]

Dave. If your saw is a right tilt Unisaw then the nut you need is definitely a left hand thread. MIke.

[Matt Day]

I use mostly 7-1/4" blades ... less chance of inadvertant contact with a smaller blade.

I don’t understand that statement.

[Jeff Duncan]

A couple thoughts.... I'd spend a little time trying to clean up the threads on your arbor first. There really shouldn't be any resistance once it's been loosened. A little time with a small file and careful work and you should be able to get the nut fitting properly again. If it's the nut that's problematic you can get a replacement pretty easily.

Second, a spacer would help a bit, but if the nut is spinning freely, probably not worth the effort of making or finding one. Really only save you less than a second.

Third, a quick locking nut would I imagine also save you a second..... but probably not worth the effort and expense if the regular nut is spinning correctly. Not to mention if the threads are buggered up are you sure you want to try to use/trust a quick lock nut?

Which in my mind brings us full circle to fixing the threads as the first step. FWIW I change blades very frequently and while it's a pain it's just what you have to do. I have two table saws, a 10" and a 12", not to mention various other types of saws and none of the arbor nuts take more than a quick spin to remove.

As for Martin's suggestion to just add more table saws.... well it's not a bad one..... if you live in rural country where space is cheap and plentiful. If you live in a more populated area the extra square footage those additional saws, plus in-feed and out-feed room they take up, may well cost more than any savings in labor. In my area where the cheap shop space is about $9 per sf, and every one of those sf has to be heated in the winter.... you have to be pretty conservative with shop size and what equipment you bring in. Mine is 2400sf and my landlord just shakes his head whenever he pops in for a visit. Says he can't understand how I got all that equipment into that little space. And my two tablesaws are squeezed in pretty snug. If I had the room I might add another..... but I'm not going any bigger;) Now if you want to talk about real setup time forget table saw blades that take 30 seconds and we can discuss shaper setups that can go anywhere between 5 minutes and a half an hour or more with custom jigs! That's where time can really get used up:(

good luck,
JeffD

[Mike Henderson]

No clue as to what constitutes right or left thread.
The terms "left hand" and "right hand" comes from the following. Let me take a right hand threaded bolt or nut first.

Take your right hand and clutch your fingers while pointing your thumb out. Point your thumb in the direction you want the nut or bolt to go (in or out). Your fingers point in the direction to turn the nut or bolt.

For a left hand bolt or nut, use your left hand in exactly the same fashion.

That's a better way to determine the direction to turn a bolt or nut than "righty tighty, lefty loosey" which never made a lot of sense to me (what does righty or lefty mean?) and won't work for left hand threads (lefty tighty, righty loosey?).

Mike

[Chris Parks]

There is a possibility of the shaft threads being stretched by some goon over tightening the nut in the past and that may be why there are spots that are hard to get the nut past. If a new nut doesn't solve the problem and there are no dents/damage to the threads then look much more closely at the possibility of stretched threads. The diameter will be smaller and the thread crests further apart. The only remedy is a shaft replacement. If left alone the extremely unlikely result is the shaft can fail where the thread is weak.

This, people over tighten arbor nuts when in fact they do not need more than a good nip up.

[Ronald Blue]

The terms "left hand" and "right hand" comes from the following. Let me take a right hand threaded bolt or nut first.

Take your right hand and clutch your fingers while pointing your thumb out. Point your thumb in the direction you want the nut or bolt to go (in or out). Your fingers point in the direction to turn the nut or bolt.

For a left hand bolt or nut, use your left hand in exactly the same fashion.

That's a better way to determine the direction to turn a bolt or nut than "righty tighty, lefty loosey" which never made a lot of sense to me (what does righty or lefty mean?) and won't work for left hand threads (lefty tighty, righty loosey?).

Mike

Right hand is clockwise to tighten and left hand is counter clockwise to tighten. That's as simple as it get's. I don't know the thought process behind righty tighty lefty loosey and won't waste my limited brain cells on trying to determine it.