Dovetail lap lines: even, less than, over

[Tony Wilkins]

After re-reading Ian Kirby’s book on dovetails, I noticed he has one thing that goes against most of what I’ve seen — setting the gauge to less than depth of the old it’s going into. He is adamant that this is the correct way to do it so you can plain the sides down to the pins. I can’t remember all the list he has as to why this is beneficial but it made sense.

so do any of you set your lap lines this way or do you do it even or more than?

[Mike Henderson]

No, I make my gauge lines as close to the thickness of the other board as I can. Since we are human, sometimes they come out long, and sometimes they come out short. But not by much.

Mike

[Andrew Hughes]

I like to have my pins or tails proud. Sometimes my saw will jump at the beginning of the cut and scar the end grain. So I'd rather not have to plane the whole side to recover from my clumsiness.
Theres are time when I do see the advantage it's easier to clamp and close the bigger dovetail joints.

[Frederick Skelly]

I also set my gauge lines so that the pins will be a tad proud.

[Tony Zaffuto]

I bought the Kirby book more than a decade ago and it was one of two things that brought my DTs into the good to excellent range. The other thing was the PWW/C Swartz article of doing a DT a day for 30 days.

[Phil Mueller]

Matt Estella video on dovetails advocates setting the guage a tiny bit proud of the width. This way you are planing down end grain vs the long grain. I tried this method for the last few joints and I prefer it. Just easier for me to plane down the protruding end grain, than feather out the long grain. Just goes to show there are a hundered different ways and opinions on making dovetail joints.

[Frederick Skelly]

Matt Estella video on dovetails advocates setting the guage a tiny bit proud of the width. This way you are planing down end grain vs the long grain. I tried this method for the last few joints and I prefer it. Just easier for me to plane down the protruding end grain, than feather out the long grain. Just goes to show there are a hundered different ways and opinions on making dovetail joints.

Thanks for the lead Tony!

For anyone who's interested, here's a link to a Schwartz article that discusses the "dovetail a day" thing and includes a link to download the original article. I think I might give this a try, just for grins...

Fred

[Derek Cohen]

I set my gauges to the exact thickness ..

https://s19.postimg.org/nouqsg337/gauge1_zpsjlvujzlp.jpg

Deepen the lines where they are to be the baselines ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/ThroughDovetails3_html_aed5591.jpg

They go back exactly without the need for tuning ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/ThroughDovetails3_html_ddca226.jpg


Article: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/Furniture/ThroughDovetails3.html


Regards from Perth

Derek

[david charlesworth]

T- gives an easier assembly, no need to tap each side of each dovetail.

If drawer making the length of front and back are usually critical to sideways fit, so planing the sides down to the endgrain of the pins makes sense.

However if a huge carcase I think pins protruding minutely is a good plan!

Best wishes
David Charlesworth

[Simon MacGowen]

I started with the gauge set at the thickness of the board...until I came to learn about Ian Kirby and later his work and books. One reason (it is in his book that you have) is that you can glue up the joint without resorting to cauls (not if the pins are proud of the tails). He also mentions about the importance of the end grain being the reference surface, something many people dont relate to.

Even though he doesn't have a social media following, this guy is a "hidden treasure" when it comes to precision work, the same sort of thing David Charlesworth promotes.

Simon

[Simon MacGowen]

Matt Estella video on dovetails advocates setting the guage a tiny bit proud of the width. This way you are planing down end grain vs the long grain. I tried this method for the last few joints and I prefer it. Just easier for me to plane down the protruding end grain, than feather out the long grain. Just goes to show there are a hundered different ways and opinions on making dovetail joints.

With long grain planing (kinder to your edge), you need not worry about breakouts. With protruded pins, you have to plane/chisel from both sides.

Also see David Charlesworth's post about drawers.

Simon

[Phil Mueller]

Thanks for pointing out Kirby and David’s methods...which Kirby book are you referencing; the “Mastering Woodworking; Making Joints”, or “The Complete Dovetail”

[Derek Cohen]

https://sawmillcreek.org/images/misc/quote_icon.png Originally Posted by Phil Mueller https://sawmillcreek.org/images/buttons/viewpost-right.png (https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?p=2794615#post2794615)
Matt Estella video on dovetails advocates setting the guage a tiny bit proud of the width. This way you are planing down end grain vs the long grain. I tried this method for the last few joints and I prefer it. Just easier for me to plane down the protruding end grain, than feather out the long grain. Just goes to show there are a hundered different ways and opinions on making dovetail joints.

There are indeed many ways to do this. When making inset drawers, the last thing you would wish to do is plane the sides of the drawer front, which was carefully sized at the start.

I want the fit to be flush (tails/pins) since, once glued, I would prefer to insert the drawer while the glue to dries. See examples above.

Most of the time I get away with this. At worst, the sides need a little removed to move smoothly. Nevertheless, the fit at the front is sacred.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[Brian Holcombe]

I make frames and even a minor change in thickness of the sides is easy to see. I like them exact and error on the side of the pins being long.

For drawers I fit the faces exact, so once I knock a minor bit off the end grain they’re clearanced.

[Simon MacGowen]

The Complete Dovetail is highly recommended.

Simon

[Simon MacGowen]

I bought the Kirby book more than a decade ago and it was one of two things that brought my DTs into the good to excellent range. The other thing was the PWW/C Swartz article of doing a DT a day for 30 days.

Same here except minus the PWW article...excellent range meaning Rob Cosman's results but not at his kind of speed which isnt important for me as I have tons of time.

Simon

[Tony Wilkins]

Thanks for pointing out Kirby and David’s methods...which Kirby book are you referencing; the “Mastering Woodworking; Making Joints”, or “The Complete Dovetail”
Complete Dovetail

[Phil Mueller]

Thank you both.