Bandsaw rebuild

[Mitchell Ristine]

Good evening,

I picked up a 1 hp TEFC Baldor for my Delta 14". When I mount the motor on the stand where the other one was, the terminal box of the larger motor is in the way of the access door to the lower wheel of the saw.

I did some googling and smaller terminal boxes are not an option (I don't think people make them). What can I cover the area where the leads come out with? Wood? Random sheet metal?

Ideas?

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[Robert Cherry]

I would move the motor back and get a longer belt.

[John Lanciani]

Build a lower shelf on the stand and put the motor underneath the saw.

[Geoff Crimmins]

You could also have a metal L-bracket made that would allow you to rotate the motor back 90 degrees the wiring box was pointing up.

[Bernie May]

looks to me that you just need to cut back that wire box on the motor and have the wires come out from another side. Looks like plenty of room after the box is cut back and reconfigured.

[michael langman]

If you could raise the saw u about 6" on the stand it would make more room for the motor.

[Bill Dufour]

I have the same delta bandsaw on an enclosed base. On mine the motor is underneath the saw which makes it shorter from side to side. More weight lower down makes up for the narrow footprint as far as stability.
Bill D

[Mitchell Ristine]

I have the same delta bandsaw on an enclosed base. On mine the motor is underneath the saw which makes it shorter from side to side. More weight lower down makes up for the narrow footprint as far as stability.
Bill D

Did you have to cut a hole in your base for the belt?

[Bill Dufour]

This is the factory base so it has slot in the top of the base. It has a sheet metal cabinet with hinged door on the top to hide the driven pulley and belt. that cabinet has an open bottom and sits on top of the slotted part of the base.
Bill D.


old style
http://www.vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?ID=31427

New style like. mine

http://www.vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?ID=26346 (http://www.vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?ID=31427)

[Bill Dufour]

http://www.vintagemachinery.org/photoindex/detail.aspx?ID=26346

[Myk Rian]

OK, I'll ask. Why do you need 1hp on a 14" saw?
Here's my saw. A 1966 Metal/Wood model. I've never needed more than 1/2hp.
even while re-sawing up to 12".

[Mitchell Ristine]

OK, I'll ask. Why do you need 1hp on a 14" saw?

Most honest ever: I am not sure. I am new to the hobby. I picked up the Delta for a couple hundred bucks. Was having trouble resawing walnut. When I took the saw apart I found bad tires, misaligned blocks. By that point I already had the "new" motor, so I figured what the heck.

[Rick Potter]

I have one of the last series of US made Delta 14". It came with a 1-1/2 HP motor, and a 16" square table. It eats 6" hardwood. It was on my 'must have' list for years, andI love it.

No riser block, because I now also have a bigger saw.

[Carlos Alvarez]

I've stalled the 1.75 HP motor on my Jet 18 while resawing wenge. More power is sometimes necessary. I could also overcome it by becoming more experienced with the job.

[Pete Staehling]

Most honest ever: I am not sure. I am new to the hobby. I picked up the Delta for a couple hundred bucks. Was having trouble resawing walnut. When I took the saw apart I found bad tires, misaligned blocks. By that point I already had the "new" motor, so I figured what the heck.
My 14" Delta has a 1.5 hp motor and I never considered it over powered. It always seemed adequate, but not excessive when resawing.

[John McClanahan]

You could also have a metal L-bracket made that would allow you to rotate the motor back 90 degrees the wiring box was pointing up.

This is what I would do.

[Mitchell Ristine]

This is what I would do.

That is what I did. Works great.