Panel sled design questions

[Rick Moyer]

I have one I made previously but I, uh..., well let's just start over!

I previously used an oak runner, now going to use an Incra runner. Will again be made using 1/2" good plywood. Now for my questions:
1. Left miter track or right track? I have about the same usable distance either side so maybe a moot issue.., but using right miter gives more support to sled
2. Size? first one was 20"x30", this seemed pretty good, any reason to go, or not go, larger?
3. I like the fence on the leading edge, but am considering adding a clamp/hold-down or two on the fence. Thoughts or examples?

Will appreciate any and all thoughts and suggestions. Thanks

[Jerry Miner]

1. Left or right: your choice. I use the left side because it feels more comfortable to me (I also put stock to the left of the miter saw-- but it's strictly a personal preference)

2. 20 x 30 is a good size for a first sled. Depends a lot on what kind of work you do. I have several sleds (and you may well want to increase the size of your "herd" as you go) small, for small work, large for larger work-- with the fence on the rear for easier loading of large panels, and beveled for bevel cuts.

3. Clamps, hold-downs, stops, etc. are all helpful. You don't have to create the "perfect" combination right away. Build a sled and use it. Add accessories as you feel the need. Don't be afraid to remove/install clamps, etc. as you adjust your process.

[glenn bradley]

I use both miter slots, specialty cuts aside, anything that is light enough for one runner . . . I just use my miter gauge. YMMV. I enjoy these threads because they show how something that performs such a fundamental job can benefit from such wide variation. Usable bed size will depend on what you use it for. If your previous size was never lacking I would go with that. I have a few sleds; a small one for things up to 12", a medium for things up to 20" and a large on for things up to 36".

382181

I find I use the small one the most and could probably use a miter gauge instead for many things that I use it for. My preference for the sled comes from me liking to have the material carried.

If I were to build one today, here are the things I have found valuable over time:

- Fence and bed ZCI's are a must.
- I like front and rear fences.
- The fence closest to you should have ample adjustability.
- Hold down tracks in the bed are an asset.
- Some safe and comfortable way to grab the thing for putting it on and off the saw is worth the effort.

382179

For stops I use various blocks drilled / milled for Rockler Universal clamps or Micro-Jig dovetail clamps. I make the fence heights on my sleds compatible with these so that they can be used on any of them. I have never found myself able to trust a tape on the fence so I have left that behind. I keep it pretty simple; a base, two runners, two fences and two ZCI's. This doesn't mean this is right for you. I have seen some really tricked out sleds with options that are important to their users. when you make a shop fixture, make it for how you will use it. That's what's most important.

[Al Launier]

Glenn, the sled looks pristine. Have you used it yet? ;)

Seriously, I see you have both a vertical & a 45° saw cut through the front fence, and an indexing plate for both on the rear fence indicating a ZCI for each cutting application. Great idea! I currently have a sled for each and wonder why I never thought of that. Wish I had thought of it, but then again I don't have your experience or insight.

[Tom Bender]

My sled is only on the left side of the blade. It is made from 1/4" luan plywood with a 1 1/2" x 4" Basswood rear fence. Weighs about 3 pounds so it is easy on and off with one hand. Works great. I never use the miter gauge.

[Bradley Gray]

I have several single purpose sleds. I use both slots. I have found an easy way to get a perfect fit in both slots is to make the 2 sides separately -I mount the runners to the plywood with a bit of trim on the blade side and run each through the saw before connecting with a front and back fence.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

I have 2 sleds both of which use both slots. One sled is a specialty sled for cutting small parts. The other sled is my panel cutting sled.

[Jay Aubuchon]

I have found an easy way to get a perfect fit in both slots is to make the 2 sides separately -I mount the runners to the plywood with a bit of trim on the blade side and run each through the saw before connecting with a front and back fence.

Brilliant!

[Mike Cutler]

Glenn

Those sleds are amazing! Easily amongst the best I've seen.
If I made sleds that nice I'd tend to keep them around, instead of throwing them out when I'm done.( I have a slider on my saw, so I don't really use sleds much anymore.)
Well done.

Rick
Copy Glenn's designs and you'll be fine. ;)

[Bruce Wrenn]

I use a NYW style panel cutter. Half inch melamine, with a HDPE runner, and fence at rear (near operator.) Fence extends across the blade to push cut offs past blade. Also have a similar sled on left side of blade to prevent them from falling and tearing corner. Left sled fits into miter slot, as I also use it with my "DUBBY."

[Rick Moyer]

To be clear, I have several cross cut sleds already, both regular and miter sleds, but they're not big enough to accept larger than about 18". I'm only needing to re-build something for cross-cutting larger panels, hence the description of panel sled.
I have decided that the fence should be away from me as my experience has been it easier to put a panel on the sled up against the fence and push the assembly thru, rather than try to start the cut with everything overhanging the front of the saw. This has worked best in the past. I guess size is subjective so I can address that, probably going with similar as before. Same with the miter track used I suppose. So, I guess the only question remaining is how to employ clamping to the panel? I like Glenn's use of T-track but this is a light panel sled that isn't thick enough for that. I think maybe a toggle clamp or two on the leading fence may be the answer. Any other examples?

[John TenEyck]

I have one sled. It's basic, large, has two fences, and has runners in both miter slots. It has four safety features I think all sleds should have but few do. One, it has a rear blade guard, as shown on Glenn's sled. Two, it has a top guard made of Plexiglass; you can see what your are cutting but the blade can't throw anything directly at you nor could you fall directly on the blade. Three, it has outfeed support, and four, the maximum travel distance is limited so you can't push the blade through the back of the blade guard. All those safety features came from the design of the late Jerry Cary in his book. I built the sled large enough to cut kitchen cabinet components.

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John