Trouble with getting good scribe line using marking gauges

[Brian Nguyen]

Okay--I feel really stupid and inferior, but I'm asking for help.

For some reason, I've never been able to get good scribe line using my marking gauges. I've tried the Veritas wheel gauge, the Jessem Wood Sabre gauge, the wooden gauge with the nail, etc. I see everyone using these marking gauges to make perfect scribes by holding a board in one hand and running the gauge with the other, but when I try it I can't get the bloody line to be straight. Clamping the wood down sometimes help but is problematic if it's a thin piece. So up to now I've been using the Incra T-rule and a pencil to draw the lines, then a marking knife and another rule to scribe. I'm a hybrid hobbyist so if push comes to shove, I will just plug my tools in. But in between projects, I like to just whip out the hand tools to dimension stock except I can't figure out how to bloody use these marking gauges.

....help?

:mad:

[John C Cox]

This is a really dumb question and all....

Is the end/side of the board you are using as a reference plane for the marking gage straight, square, true, amooth, and free of tool marks? One thing that often gets left out of the online stuff is showing the board preparation..... Especially whatever reference surface you are using... The marking gage very effectively references off tool marks, lumps, and bumps.. ;)

[Patrick Chase]

I'll assume here that the gauge is staying tightly locked and that the problmem is that either the fence is "walking away" from the edge or the rod is tilting relative to the workpiece edge.

The first one is typically caused by grain-following, i.e. the wheel/knife/point "catches" on the wood's grain and starts to track offline. One sure-fire way to prevent that is to pay attention to the wood's grain direction, and always mark in a direction such that the wood grain draws the point away from the edge, such that it pulls fence secure against the wood edge. Another option is to make sure that you hold the work and gauge so that there is more pressure holding the fence against the work than there is holding the point in any particular groove than it may try to follow. Excessive downforce on the scribing point is actually a problem in this regard, because it translates to high sideforce when the point starts inevitably chasing grain.

As far as the rod getting tilted/skewed, solid pressure on the fence will also help there.

[Brian Nguyen]

Yep, I am confident that my reference surface is true because I check with a square and also the T-rule works fine to draw the lines with a pencil. It's the bloody gauges that I can't seem to figure out.


This is a really dumb question and all....

Is the end/side of the board you are using as a reference plane for the marking gage straight, square, true, amooth, and free of tool marks? One thing that often gets left out of the online stuff is showing the board preparation..... Especially whatever reference surface you are using... The marking gage very effectively references off tool marks, lumps, and bumps.. ;)

[Brian Nguyen]

Aha...! So my incorrect technique is I'm always going left to right which is not always the correct way? I've always seen people just casually draw their lines L/R... "zooooop" and it's all straight (!!). So to compensate I'd always press the gauges really hard so I think you described it perfectly as to my issue.

Thank you... I'll try it again tonight.



I'll assume here that the gauge is staying tightly locked and that the problmem is that either the fence is "walking away" from the edge or the rod is tilting relative to the workpiece edge.

The first one is typically caused by grain-following, i.e. the wheel/knife/point "catches" on the wood's grain and starts to track offline. One sure-fire way to prevent that is to pay attention to the wood's grain direction, and always mark in a direction such that the wood grain draws the point away from the edge, such that it pulls fence secure against the wood edge. Another option is to make sure that you hold the work and gauge so that there is more pressure holding the fence against the work than there is holding the point in any particular groove than it may try to follow. Excessive downforce on the scribing point is actually a problem in this regard, because it translates to high sideforce when the point starts inevitably chasing grain.

As far as the rod getting tilted/skewed, solid pressure on the fence will also help there.

[Andrew Hughes]

Try using a very lite hand pressure for the first pass then go heavy. Same applies with making knifes except the shape of a marking knifes tip is also important. But that's for another discussion

[Roger Nair]

In my practice as a timber framer, I have made many thousands of gauged marks in a so-called square rule method. My goal is to have uniform marks that can be quickly made and completely regular through out a project. The process starts with rough sawn green timber, that often moves as stress is relieved while the log is being sawn. First step is a material survey that sets the actual gains that will be used. Second steps is to make the gauges and templates. Third step is to plane two adjacent reference surfaces into each timber to smooth, straighten and unwind the stick. Fourth step is layout. Fifth step is cutting. Sixth step is to plane non-reference surfaces.

With respect to the gauges, I make them from AC plywood with 3" x 20" x 3/4" strips formed into a well fastened and glued tee. The points are made with durable screws with filed points. These gauges are two handed with a very extended base that will remain parallel to the reference side with little tendency to rock and will produce either a strong or fine mark as required. The same gauge can be used for flush surface mortise and tenon throughout the project. Once a gauge is set, no need for head scratching and fiddling with beam adjustment, just pick up the correct gauge. Strike all marks from the planed reference sides which are completely distinct from the unplanned non-reference sides.

This concept could be used in a scaled down method

[Pat Barry]

Try using a very lite hand pressure for the first pass then go heavy. Same applies with making knifes except the shape of a marking knifes tip is also important. But that's for another discussion
This is what i find to work best along the grain.

[ernest dubois]

There is nothing wrong with clamping your work in the bench and the traditional workbench with its fore and tail vice is well suited for a variety of options when you mark across the grain, end grain and along the grain. Don't worry about being cool and holding the work piece in one hand while you mark it, just secure it and mark well, and a light hand for the initial scoring will also help. Remember the bench top is also itself a holding mechanism and the work piece laying there against a stop will also stabilize things.

[Phil Mueller]

Brian, you are not alone. I have been quite successful at times creating a very squiggly guage line. As referenced by others, I always clamp down the work. It allows me to use one hand to ensure the guage fence is against the reference edge, and the other to apply pressure to the rod/wheel/nail. The first few passes are very light. You just want to start to cut the top fibers of the wood. After a pass or two, more pressure can be applied. 3-4 passes is typical for me. On some woods, even more.

[Warren Mickley]

I have taught a lot of people to use a marking gauge over the last 40 years. One guy from around 1985 stands out. A fifteen year old who was dyslexic. I showed him once, he picked up the gauge and made a very nice line on the first try. I could not believe it. Everyone else struggles a bit at first because it is a somewhat sophisticated skill.

The problem is that you have to press hard to keep the fence against the stock, but press lightly with the pin on the face. You might practice with the fence snug against the edge without engaging the pin at all, then just let the pin touch without making a mark so you get the idea of it. Heavy with the fence, light with the pin.

[Chris Parks]

The problem can be broken down to two separate issues, one is caused by the friction of dragging the gauge and the second is caused by the timber being cut. The first is overcome simply by hand pressure and getting used to holding the gauge so it does not deviate from the drag of the friction. The second is caused by the grain of the timber but going light on the first stroke usually sorts that out. To get a good feel for the first problem get some scrap MDF as it has no grain and practise, it won't take long and soon you will be able to do it without clamping the timber to the bench. David Carlesworth has a good video on modifying gauges to make them easier to use which may help.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L-aT7WIdydg&t=422s