Chamfering parts of a bench

[Todd Zucker]

I have a question about aesthetics and maybe technique, depending on the answer, for chamfering parts of a garden bench.

Here's a photo (just a dry fit of some of the parts)
382041

Before gluing up, I am intending to chamfer, among other things, the long edges of the legs and arms, which are all 2.5" x 2.5" and at the moment flush with each other at the joint.

I have seen benches in catalogs where they seem to have run everything, including the ends of the parts, over a router with a chamfer or roundover bit, which leaves a v-shaped grove at the joints. When using hand tools, would one normally stop the chamfer where two parts meet for a flush joint and maybe less mass-produced look, or chamfer the entire edge of the parts?

Also, if I am using a block plane for most of the work and want to get a crisp edge where the chamfer stops, is the best tool a chisel, or a spokeshave, or something else.

[Mel Fulks]

I like to mostly use a drawknife. Isn't that red oak? I'd make it a PORCH bench.

[Todd Zucker]

It’s white oak. The lighting isn’t that great in the garage.

[Stanley Covington]

I have a question about aesthetics and maybe technique, depending on the answer, for chamfering parts of a garden bench.

Here's a photo (just a dry fit of some of the parts)
382041

Before gluing up, I am intending to chamfer, among other things, the long edges of the legs and arms, which are all 2.5" x 2.5" and at the moment flush with each other at the joint.

I have seen benches in catalogs where they seem to have run everything, including the ends of the parts, over a router with a chamfer or roundover bit, which leaves a v-shaped grove at the joints. When using hand tools, would one normally stop the chamfer where two parts meet for a flush joint and maybe less mass-produced look, or chamfer the entire edge of the parts?

Also, if I am using a block plane for most of the work and want to get a crisp edge where the chamfer stops, is the best tool a chisel, or a spokeshave, or something else.

Are all the parts still separate? Are all the edge straight or nearly straight? Are you planning on a simple 45 degree chamfer? Do you have a chamfer plane? These points will have an effect on technique and tools.

Assuming the parts are not glued together yet, that the edges are close to straight, that you intend a 45 degree chamfer, and do not yet have a chamfer plane, here is how I would do it.

1. Fit the parts together.
2. Mark the point of intersection of stopped chamfers with through chamfer with a marking knife or razor knife. Highlight these small cuts with a pencil to make them easier to see.
3. Make a jig to hold a mechanical pencil like a marking gauge, and use this to mark both edges of each 45 degree chamfer on the corresponding piece.
4. Use a 45 degree square or bevel gauge to layout the 45 degree lines where stopped chamfers intersect through chamfers.
5. Use a dozuki to saw the 45 degree mitre where through chamfer meets stopped chamfer. Be very careful to cut short of the line. Too far is not good.
6. Use handplanes for long sections, and block planes for shorter sections to cut the chamfers. Be careful to not go past any lines. Skewing the plane drastically at the end of each chamfer will let you get in a little closer to the terminus.
7. Use spokeshaves, drawknifes, knifes, and even files to finish the ends of stopped chamfers.

A router is a lot less work, but also less satisfying.

Stan

[Todd Zucker]

Yes, 45 degree chamfer. Good news is I have a Dozuki and a 45 degree square. Never would have thought about using either for this task but suddenly makes perfect sense.
I have not glued up anything yet. Still need to work on the pattern for the back slats.
I would not trust my drawknife skills, yet. Working on them, but tend to wander with the grain.

[Stanley Covington]

Yes, 45 degree chamfer. Good news is I have a Dozuki and a 45 degree square. Never would have thought about using either for this task but suddenly makes perfect sense.
I have not glued up anything yet. Still need to work on the pattern for the back slats.
I would not trust my drawknife skills, yet. Working on them, but tend to wander with the grain.

Drawknifes can be tricky, so stick with planes, spokeshaves, knives, and files and all will go well. Slow and steady.

[Warren Mickley]

In traditional work, we usually stop the chamfer 1/2 inch to an inch away from the joint. It makes for greater strength because then there is more beef where the member has been reduced by the joinery. Even so the joint is a vulnerable place for breakage.

The arms usually have a somewhat different treatment. They are not chamfered on the underside, though maybe a light easing of the edge. On the upper side they are usually rounded over, instead of a flat chamfer. This is more comfortable. This rounding can go all the way to the back post. or it can taper to no rounding at all where it meets the back.

[Pat Barry]

I would rather have a bench like that with roundovers everywhere that a person will be in contact. Save the chamfers for the backs, legs, undersides. Think of it this way - normal wear will create roundovers, not chamfers

[Robert Engel]

I would glue up the leg/arm assemblies and use a chamfer or roundover bit. This will get the corners. The problem is going to be tear out so you have to watch the grain direction very closely. Use climb cuts to minimize tear out (notice I didn't say eliminate ;-).

Stopping short of joints gives a nice effect and can still be done post-assembly if you're careful of your stop points.

IMO a draw knife would be more applicable to riven wood.

Kind of agree with Pat re: roundovers are more comfortable but its a personal choice.

Curious how do you plan to finish?

[Todd Zucker]

As I am reminded often these days, the process of enlightenment can be slow and cruel. I can finally get reasonably flat surfaces and square edges but now need to learn curves. For some strange reason, I was thinking that this learning project needed a name, along the lines of the six board chest or three minute dovetails. I came up with "Six Month Bench."
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I kept looking at this object from different angles, and although it did not look too comfortable, I couldn't put my finger on it. I did not think to actually put my arm on the armrest to see how the edge would feel with a crisply chamfered edge. I also don't think it ever popped into my mind that some person someday might actually sit on this bench. To date, it has just been a jumble of boards with mortises and tenons that I keep taking apart and putting back together on a daily basis.

Fortunately, I left the arms long, as I had been contemplating rounding them over with a large radius at the front, and the arms are thick enough to shape them to a comfortable shape.

The router is tempting, but I have been wanting to learn how to use hand tools. And I can ruin an edge much, much faster with the router.

I do have two rasps. Maybe it is time to put them to use on the arms. Hopefully they will not end up looking like the crude clay dog sculpture I made in fifth grade that my mom for some reason still displays on a shelf.

[Todd Zucker]

As for finish, Robert, I was intending to just leave it as bare wood. I tried putting teak oil on a teak table that lasted for about two months in the Houston sun and rain. I think epoxy would start flaking off after a year.

Is there something that you would recommend? If I don't finish it, it will turn gray, and that would be kind of a shame. I had never really worked with oak and did not realize it would have anything other than a dull grain until I ripped a flat sawn board on the bandsaw and hand planed the edge, the flecks jumped out at me.