If youcould have one handsaw, would it be rip or crosscut?

[Mike Baker 2]

I'm planning a minimalist tool chest build that I can leave in the back of my van, to use on occasions where I might need to do woodworking away from home. I plan to include
1/4"-1" FatMax chisels
Combo square
tape measure
Framing aquare (24")
Millers Fall #5(ish)
Block plane
Claw hammer
Rubber mallet or chisel mallet
sliding bevel
combo aluminum oxidestone, soft ark, slate stone

I have a couple of Fat Max saws, but honestly I detest them. I have a small Disston panel saw,22"-24" that I can either file rip or crosscut, so I'm thinking of going with just one saw.
Which would you choose?
Thanks

[Phil Mueller]

I’d go rip. Crosscuts are typically shorter ... 2-8” and can be easily done with a rip saw or the Fat Max saw. Rip cuts on the other hand could be much longer lengths and would benefit from a dedicated rip filed saw. I’ve tried cutting rip with a hybrid saw or all-purpose saw and it’s just not great compared to a dedicated rip saw.

[Pete Taran]

For me it would be crosscut. You likely would be crosscutting much more often than ripping. You could rip with a crosscut, but it would take a while. Having said all that, why not both? A second saw would take up no more room than a single saw. if you put the handles at opposite sides of the box and let the blades cross, you are not out any space at all.

There was quite an interesting thread recently on panel saws, and it was demonstrated that panel saws came in both rip and crosscut for many different lengths, so you could have say a 22" panel saw in both 8 point crosscut and 6 point rip for instance.

[brian zawatsky]

If I could only have one handsaw, I would cry. Then I would buy a second one.

[Philipp Jaindl]

Crosscuts are much more common then ripcuts in my experience, so id go for a Crosscut saw.

Say what you will but for larger ripcuts i much prefer a Table or Bandsaw, hell even a Jigsaw is more efficient then doing it by hand.

[Rob Luter]

I’ll quote my 7th grade woodshop teacher. “A crosscut saw will cut with the grain cleanly, but slowly. A rip saw will cut across the grain by ripping. It ain’t pretty.”

[Tony Zaffuto]

I use my CCs at least four times more than my rip saws. I would revise your list to include a CC and rip panel saw, maybe one or two chisels, a much better combo square (no framing square), a good rule along with a 12' tape measure and most of what else on your list.

I migrated to the ways of the neanderthals maybe 16 to 18 years ago, with decades before that praying at the altar of electrons. Don't make the mistakes I did, and buy every doodad that comes on the market. Start out with your list and add as you need to.

[brian zawatsky]

Crosscuts are much more common then ripcuts in my experience, so id go for a Crosscut saw.

Say what you will but for larger ripcuts i much prefer a Table or Bandsaw, hell even a Jigsaw is more efficient then doing it by hand.

I too do the vast majority of ripping by table saw or hand saw. What I do use rip saws for frequently is cutting joinery, however. I would not want to cut large tenon cheeks with a crosscut saw.

I really honestly feel that if you're going to do it right you need at least 1 CC and 1 rip.

[Phil Mueller]

I’ll revise my suggestion. I thought it was the Fat Max plus one saw. In that case, CC is the way to go. But, I agree, a second panel saw isn’t going to add much weight or room to the equation. You could go full radical and take one 24” saw with 12” filed CC, and 12” filed rip. :eek:

[Mike Baker 2]

I’ll revise my suggestion. I thought it was the Fat Max plus one saw. In that case, CC is the way to go. But, I agree, a second panel saw isn’t going to add much weight or room to the equation. You could go full radical and take one 24” saw with 12” filed CC, and 12” filed rip. :eek:

That is a very intriguing suggestion.I also have an 8 or 10 ppi Warranted Superior that needs a handle. I might even cut that down to the same length. The only reason I was thinking one saw was that all my other saws are 26" or better, and I want to keep the chest as small as possible.

[Mike Baker 2]

I have never cut down a saw before, and not sure how to go about it.

[brian zawatsky]

I’ve cut saw plates with a grinder, quenching frequently in water so as not to overheat. A better solution would be to use a metal cutting bandsaw if you have access to one. They cut pretty cool

[Mike Baker 2]

Thanks. I'm thinking a cutting wheel on a dremel or angle grinder, which is all I have. But it will take a while to start building the chest; I've got snow all over my bench at the moment.

[Patrick Chase]

That is a very intriguing suggestion.I also have an 8 or 10 ppi Warranted Superior that needs a handle. I might even cut that down to the same length. The only reason I was thinking one saw was that all my other saws are 26" or better, and I want to keep the chest as small as possible.

If I wanted something like that I'd interleave raker teeth with fleamed ones, similar to two-man saw filings. I've seen some backsaws filed like that in the past, and TFWW is offering a panel saw with an elaborate variation of that toothing: http://www.leevalley.com/US/wood/page.aspx?p=73863&cat=1,42884

[Bruce Haugen]

How about a frame saw with two blades. It can be taken apart and assembled as needed with the appropriate blade.

[Pete Taran]

You can cut that blade down quick and easy with just an ordinary saw file. Mark the spot you want to cut it with a Mr Sharpie and then start filing a channel with the corner of your saw file along your line. Go about 1/3 of the way into the plate, which isn't much, maybe .010 or so. Then put the waste side in a vise with the channel just above the jaw and bend the saw away from the channel. Wear safety glasses and a pair of gloves. Typically it will snap cleanly right at the line. You can then clean it up with a mill file and round the toe as it was before. That's the way I used to do it back in the old days before I had a dedicated shear.

[Mike Baker 2]

You can cut that blade down quick and easy with just an ordinary saw file. Mark the spot you want to cut it with a Mr Sharpie and then start filing a channel with the corner of your saw file along your line. Go about 1/3 of the way into the plate, which isn't much, maybe .010 or so. Then put the waste side in a vise with the channel just above the jaw and bend the saw away from the channel. Wear safety glasses and a pair of gloves. Typically it will snap cleanly right at the line. You can then clean it up with a mill file and round the toe as it was before. That's the way I used to do it back in the old days before I had a dedicated shear.

Thank you.

[Brandon Speaks]

No need to have just one, but if you really do have that need I guess it comes down to what you will do more of. In backsaws with fine teeth a rip seems more versital, in larger saw that probably flips. I would not make it xcut only if you need to do many rips, if you dont have at it. A hybrid filing with a little rake and fleem might be another option.

[Stew Denton]

Hi Mike,

I am in complete agreement with Pete, his suggestion is exactly what I would do also. I have 2 16" Disston #7s that have 16" blades. I have used one of them a lot, you can do a lot of crosscutting with a 16" 10 point. Will it cut as quickly as any of my 26" crosscut full size carpenters saws......nope. However, when sharp it cuts quickly enough that I don't consider a significant handicap, especially for a small portable woodworking tool chest.

The saws in my big carpenters toolbox are nested exactly like Pete mentioned. I have 4 full size saws, which includes a large back saw for a miter box in it, and the total width for those saws is about 2 & 1/2".

I checked just now, and if you have the blades parallel, handles at opposite ends, with the blade tips reaching to the tips of the horns on the parallel saw, the 16" panel saws take up an area about 1 & 1/2" by 21." A single 16" panel saw takes up an area of about 1" by 21," so as Pete mentioned, two saws take up only a very little more spade than does 1 saw. I also have a 20" Disston #7, and two of those could nest, as I described above in less than 25," again with a 1 & 1/2" width. Again, clearly you do not need much more space for two saws than for one. If length is not a problem, I would go with 2 20" Disston #7 panel saws, the crosscut a 10 point and the rip a 7 point. Beyond that, however, with a small portable tool chest you are looking for flexibility, you want to be able to do many things with limited numbers of tools.

With panel saws, my experience is that the finer teeth are better than coarser teeth. They are also more versatile, as they work much better for finish projects than do coarser teeth. They are not quite as fast as the coarser toothed saws, but again, they are not a big disadvantage either when used for framing work.

With regard to the price of a smoothing plane, I saw 4 Stanley Bailey planes on that action sites "sold" section that looked in pretty good shape, they are types 10s to 15s, those are the ones that I think the most desirable. They ranged in price from about $35 to about $65 or so. If you go to enough garage sales, flea markets, and antique shops, I believe you could certainly get a reasonable #4 for less than $30, and probably less than $20. You will likely have to put some sweat equity into it, however.

These are very good planes, and after you spruce them up a bit you will be extremely pleased with them.

Stew

[Mike Baker 2]

Thanks, Stew.

[Simon Jones]

Ryoba? Cross cut on one side and rip the other. Have to be okay with a pull stroke cut.

[Mark Rainey]

I have never cut down a saw before, and not sure how to go about it.
One dollar bimetal 32 teeth per inch ( fine ) hacksaw blade. Place saw flat on scrap wood and clamp to bench. Saw at near corner ( cutting on push stroke ) at shallow 10 degree anglehttps://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?262696-Cutting-Steel

[Mike Baker 2]

Ryoba? Cross cut on one side and rip the other. Have to be okay with a pull stroke cut.

I have a Ryoba. My arthritis does not like it. But it is IMO a great design for a saw.

[Rob Young]

Get one of the Japanese pull saws that has rip on one edge, XC on the other edge.

Or consider a bow saw frame and two blades, one rip, one XC.

[steven c newman]

next time they are on sale..
382110
Just saying....
382111
Cuts square, and fast...
382112
usually the weekend after the chisels are on sale...

[Patrick Chase]

I use impulse-hardened Bahco dispose-a-saws (which come only in xcut) on sheet goods and "suspect" boards. No point messing up the good saws with that stuff. They're actually surprisingly good.

[Mike Baker 2]

next time they are on sale..
382110
Just saying....
382111
Cuts square, and fast...
382112
usually the weekend after the chisels are on sale...

teven, I saw that kit a few months ago. Should have purchased.
I might just shove my Fatmax in there and forget it. Still debating.
S

[John C Cox]

I got by with 1 hand saw for the better part of 5 years.. It's a Vaughn Bear Saw - one of the Japanese 2 sided Ryoba style pull saws with fine cut/crosscut on one side and more coarse rip teeth on the other side. The handle removes and it stows fast. Blades cost $8-10 each last time I bought some. It cuts fast and straight... It's pretty cheap for leaving some place.

It's still my main go-to hand saw..