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Lee Schierer
03-18-2018, 3:57 PM
Most rooms are bigger in any given dimension than readily available lengths of crown molding, chair rail and base molding. In the past, I have mitered the ends of pieces where they meet on long walls in an attempt to hide the joint. This has mixed results. What other methods have any of you used where two pieces of molding meet along the length of a wall?

Cary Falk
03-18-2018, 4:10 PM
Paint grade or stain grade?

Jerry Miner
03-18-2018, 4:48 PM
Crown molding can be cut square and butted together (can also add a biscuit) with a small piece of 1/4 ply glued and nailed (stapled) to the back.

You can do the same with baseboard if you carve out a small section of drywall where the splice will be.

In general, though, a scarf joint glued together and sanded while the glue is wet yields good results on paint-grade work.

Lee Schierer
03-18-2018, 7:05 PM
Paint grade or stain grade?

Stain grade...

Paul Girouard
03-18-2018, 8:01 PM
Mitered scarf joint glued and nailed , with a angled block that screwed to the wall behind the crown is the standard of in industry. With base a glues scarf joint placed over a stud behind the GWB is also a standard of the industry.

Materials should be dry and acclimated to the space, and one other thing we commonly are NOT allowed to do he heat the space as it will be heated after the home is occupied. The house , the materials , all should be heated as it willl be in actual use. When we build housing we are all in a rush to be done , do close the deal , to get occupancy for the home owner to close the construction loan out with the bank , etc. People also don’t want to subject their furnace to construction dust , so we heat the hous with temporary heaters, so we end up with rooms to warm and rooms to cold. All this contributes to wood that’s still moving , haven’t equaled is final equilibrium.

PS thanks for your service Capt. Where you a aviator? I was a AE-1 with Prowler back in the late 70 -80’s out of NAS Whidbey Island.

Lee Schierer
03-18-2018, 9:17 PM
PS thanks for your service Capt. Where you a aviator? I was a AE-1 with Prowler back in the late 70 -80’s out of NAS Whidbey Island.

I served 5 years active and 21 in the Reserves. I wanted to fly, but my eyes let me down.

Paul Girouard
03-18-2018, 10:19 PM
I served 5 years active and 21 in the Reserves. I wanted to fly, but my eyes let me down.


I admire your tenacity, I did four active with VAQ-137 made two WESPAC’s on Ranger CV-61 , then was out for four years , joined as a SELRES and drilled with VAQ-309 , where we did one ACTDUTRA , you guessed it on Ranger LOL. Then I requested a recall to active duty and stood up a new at the time Prowler squadron VAQ-141 , did a Med Cruise/ NORLANT / work up in the Caribbean on TR CVN-71 , and a mini cruise down to Trinidad / Tobago on Abe Lincoln CVN-72 her first air wing action. I got out again , to much travel / time away from the shop / home. And drilled with VAQ-309 for about a year , the reserves drove me nuts, to much “worthless” training / trips to medical / and not enough time working on jets so I quit! What a dumb a$$ , I could be collecting a nice check every month and most likely would have made Chief had a stuck it out. Youth is wasted on the young ;-))

Paul Girouard
03-18-2018, 10:21 PM
But back to your question about the joints on running trim , what exactly are you experiencing with joining your trim?

Lee Schierer
03-19-2018, 8:29 AM
But back to your question about the joints on running trim , what exactly are you experiencing with joining your trim?

Typically I just miter the ends and try to glue them together, I was just wondering if there was a better way to do it. This is the base that I'm working with.
381829

Robert Engel
03-19-2018, 9:02 AM
There are a couple videos on YouTube with excellent techniques for this.

Pretty much what Jerry said.