Need help setting up a router bit without a bearing on the router table

[George Bokros]

To be specific it is the Freud Recoverable Bead bit for glass doors.

The problem is I think I am setting it up to cut to deep. When the end of the piece leaves the in feed fence it kicks into the bit so the profile is deeper. I have made a zero clearance fence and it still is doing it. The zero clearance fence goes to the nut on the top of the bit. I have zero clearance fence on both the in feed and out feed side. I am using a six inch ruler to flush the fence to the deepest part of the bit.

I can not leave the pieces longer because the cope cut is done first so the rails have to be the exact correct length to make the cope cut.

Anyone used these bits to make glass doors? Any suggestions of what I can do to eliminate this problem.

Thanks

[Mike Cary]

I have not used that specific bit, but I have used similar bits. I think you are cutting to deep.

[George Bokros]

I have not used that specific bit, but I have used similar bits. I think you are cutting to deep.

That is exactly what I am thinking. I just cannot figure out how to set the fence in the correct position. I am using a straight edge (six inch ruler across the fence opening and putting the deepest part of the bit flush against the ruler.

Is there a better way?

[Steve Jenkins]

Using a piece of scrap cut just enough so the end of the stock is over the outfeed fence. There will probably be a gap between the fence and stock. Shim the outfeed fence till the gap disappears then test

[George Bokros]

Using a piece of scrap cut just enough so the end of the stock is over the outfeed fence. There will probably be a gap between the fence and stock. Shim the outfeed fence till the gap disappears then test

Thanks for this suggestion Steve. I hope I have some cardboard of the right thickness to put behind the zero clearance sub fence I have made to shim out the out feed fence.

[Lee Schierer]

You can do what Steve says or make small adjustments such that the face of you fence is even with the arc of the cutting edge that makes the removable portion. That little flat on the removable piece should be in contact with your fence as it exits the cutter.
381519

[George Bokros]

Thanks Lee. I have been aligning the fence with the other cutting edge. This makes sense to me now.

[Doug Hepler]

George,

I have not used that bit. However, one has the same problem with a lock miter bit. So, for what it's worth, you might be able to avoid this problem if you make a carrier jig that rides above the cutter and the clearance gap in the fence. It will hold the workpiece exactly the distance that you set it to be. The figure shows this idea as it would apply to, say, a box side. Part 1 is optional. It is to help the clamp hold the workpiece against part 3. Part 2 rides along the fence above the cutter. You might need to modify the shape for a longer and narrower workpiece.

Doug381541