What Size Table?

[Steve Middleton]

Apologies if this has been covered but it didn't come up in a search. What size table is appropriate for smaller items i.e. phone cases, etc up to signage for address signs, wall art, etc? I suspect I've been bitten by the "bigger is better bug"! This will be my first machine and want to make a good decision even if it costs a little more. So far it's between FS Laser and Rabbit. I'm leaning toward FS because their software sounds like it's more flexible? Thanks for all the information, I've spent most of the last 3-4 days in front of the monitor!

[Mike Null]

There are a lot of engraving businesses making a living with a 12x24 table size and a lot at 12 x18. For what you are describing smaller would work well. Just be sure to get a rotary device for what ever table size you decide on.

Power will be more important than size so I'd always go with more power if I had that option.

[Doug Fisher]

It is cheaper to pay for a larger machine now than to "upgrade" a smaller laser machine by purchasing a whole new larger laser machine later. Take time to really think about what you plan to do in the future, not just right now.

[Steve Middleton]

Is 60 watt sufficient?

[Mike Null]

Absolutely.

[Steve Middleton]

Thanks for the input. I've decided on the Rabbit QX-60-960 60 W machine with all the accessories. I'm still about 90 days out but have locked in a quote for 24x41 building and applied for the building permit yesterday. Now we just have to wait for the weather to clear in PA:)

[Bert Kemp]

Steve congrats one suggestion would be to upgrade the 3000 chiller to a 5000- the 3000 basically just keeps the water at room temp. Of course if you have ac or your not going to work in a room over say 70F it will probably be ok

[Kev Williams]

Concur on the chiller- I have a 3000 for my Triumph-- in the summer my garage shop is hard to keep under 80°, and that's as cool as the water will get with a 3000, which is too warm for a glass laser... I rigged up my own chiller for the hot days, a 25' coil of copper tubing that sets in a medium size storage container, I just keep the coils covered with water. When it gets too warm, I just add ice :)

I may just break down and get a refer unit, but I don't use the Triumph enough to justify it- last summer there were maybe 7 days I had to ice the water. Most days I can avoid that by engraving early morning or late night ...

But buying fresh, get a refer!

[Steve Middleton]

Thanks, I did upgrade the chiller and still figuring out heat. PA winters are no fun! I haven't been through a summer here so don't know how bad the humidity is. Guess I'll figure it out as I go.

[John Blazy]

On some jobs, you can cut / engrave a larger project than the table by doing part of the job, then moving your material in deeper into the laser to cut / engrave the rest, essentially doubling the table size. I have learned several ingenious ways of indexing and connecting separate cut programs to match / splice perfectly without seeing where I spliced. Depends on what you are doing, and you have to find a natural break point in your drawing. Very rarely do I need to do this, as most jobs fit within 18 x 24, even though I am spoiled with my 36 x 48 bed.

I also learned that the larger the bed, the more pronounced of an issue if the laser is not cutting perfectly square. But Ray at Rabbit will tell you the easy way to square the table. He personally squares the laser prior to selling, so it won't be an issue. Mine was off by very little, but it became an issue when I had to cut parts made from molds using same cut file, but mirroring.

Also the larger the table, the more perfect the mirrors need to be aligned. Hitting dead center in upper left corner may not hit dead center in lower right corner of a 3 x 4 ft bed, so you have to check and adjust according to different parts of the table. Don't be overwhelmed though, its easy to understand with basic mechanical thinking.