Dovetailing large case pieces

[Kenneth Walton]

Hi guys, I’m making a radiator cover that will be 4ft high and 3ft wide. I have a couple questions about the logistics of dovetailing the top to the sides.

First, pins or tails on the top board? Will it make a difference?

Second, how would you go about holding these pieces specifically for marking tails to pins or vice versa? My workbench is 35” tall, and I have a moxin vice that is about 8” tall that I usually use for dovetails. With 4ft tall sides, however, that puts the pieces well above the top of the vice for transferring marks. Is there a more obvious way to hold the pieces for marking than what my limited mind can come up with?

Thank you so much for the help!

Ken

[Joe A Faulkner]

I'd go with tails on the top board. Gravity works in your favor for the top not sliding out of the tails, and this let's the the mechanical lock of the dovetails keep the sides from pulling away from the top.

For marking the pins, you could try try laying the side boards and the top on their sides. You might use some 90 degree clamping blocks to insure alignment when you transfer the tails - assuming tails first approach.

[Simon MacGowen]

Hi guys, I’m making a radiator cover that will be 4ft high and 3ft wide. I have a couple questions about the logistics of dovetailing the top to the sides.

First, pins or tails on the top board? Will it make a difference?

Second, how would you go about holding these pieces specifically for marking tails to pins or vice versa? My workbench is 35” tall, and I have a moxin vice that is about 8” tall that I usually use for dovetails. With 4ft tall sides, however, that puts the pieces well above the top of the vice for transferring marks. Is there a more obvious way to hold the pieces for marking than what my limited mind can come up with?

Thank you so much for the help!

Ken

If it is just a cover not subject to structural stress, it doesn't matter which side is the tail. Appearance would matter more to me here. Pick a configuration that looks good to you.

On marking, would this work? http://www.leevalley.com/en/shopping/addviews.aspx?p=62633

Alternatively, you can use MDF or ply (1/2" thick) to build a large-scale (say, 2' x 2') David Barron's style of alignment jig: https://www.woodworkersinstitute.com/furniture-cabinetmaking/techniques/workshop-jigs/workshop-wednesdays-dovetail-alignment-jig/


Simon

[steven c newman]

381227
I have been doing pins first......then stand the pin board straight up, and mark the tails...
YMMV

[Brian Holcombe]

I prefer pins on the top board.

[Jim Koepke]

It may be easier with your logistics to have pins on the top board.

It may be easier to align the tails from a four foot side on the edge of a three foot board held to the end of the bench.

Aligning the pin board vertically to mark the tail board or balancing the tails atop a four foot tall side may be difficult.

Here is how two large cabinets were done for our washroom about eight years ago:

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?135061-Cabinets-and-Dovetails

If this write up was ever completed, it must have been in a separate post.

Of course this one being a wall hanger had the sides as the tail boards.

381230

The heart shaped 'lovetails' were outlined and initialed by my wife after she painted the cabinet.

jtk

[Kenneth Walton]

Thanks guys! Some good ideas. I think I’ll either pick up some 90 degree clamps or make a big David Barron alignment board. I’ll let you know how it goes!

Ken

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Ken

If you have a Moxon vise, you can span it across the end of the bench to fit long boards, like this ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/MoxonDovetailVise_html_m56d5c613.jpg

This was taken some years ago on my old bench. The Moxon vise has since been modified. Details here ...

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeTools/MoxonDovetailVise.html

Regards from Perth

Derek