How to safely and accurately crosscut 30"?

[John Sayen]

Hi all,

Normally I handle my crosscuts on a festool MFT/3 complete with TS55 - I've found that when tuned it produces square results.

30" is too wide to fit on the table, and I'm seeking input on how to accomplish an accurate safe crosscut.

I considered the tablesaw for a minute but it's way too wide to use a miter gauge, and utilizing the fence wouldn't produce a perpendicular cut to the currently perfectly parallel sides.

There's got to be a simple solution that I'm not thinking of.

The piece is 35"Hx30"W - looking to shorten it to 33"Hx30"W.

Thank you.

[Grant Aldridge]

Skil saw with a straight edge is what I use

[Harvey Miller]

You could try cutting across the 'front' of the table instead of the side. Just mount the MFT's fence & track 90 degrees from their usual position.

[Cary Falk]

You have a tracksaw. Make a perpendicular line using the 3-4-5 triangle and lay the tack on it. Once you are satisfied with the cut then rip to width on the tablesaw.

[Robert Engel]

I use a panel cutting sled on my TS. 30" is pushing it, but doable.

Its basically the same as a sled but the fence is on the far edge.

You need an outfeed table to safely use it with enough past the blade to support the cut.

[Jim Becker]

You could try cutting across the 'front' of the table instead of the side. Just mount the MFT's fence & track 90 degrees from their usual position.

This...or your saw on a separate track with the material on the floor over foam or boards.

[John Sayen]

You could try cutting across the 'front' of the table instead of the side. Just mount the MFT's fence & track 90 degrees from their usual position.

I don't think this will work as the front of the table has a clamping mechanism that holds the track in place (ensures it retains it's square position). I realize it's possible to make the perpendicular line and cut it with a track on a piece of foam, that was going to be my last resort.

I was/am asking the question as I've found it's extremely challenging to get an exactly perfect perpendicular cut when merely laying the track on top of the wood, especially every 30+ inches.

I've learned over time that obsessing over the details to ensure things are square helps me a lot in the build process.

[Patrick McCarthy]

If I understand correctly, Festool has clamps that slide into a slot on the bottom of the track. Get two of those, clamp the track to the sheet of wood while elevated and hanging off the end of the table, and voila!

[Prashun Patel]

I have used Robert's method. A single-runner sled with the fence on the leading edge. This gives plenty of support on the infeed.

Frankly, if the rail on my table saw were long enough, I would feel comfortable cutting this using the rip fence. I think 30" is plenty of registration. Also, you are doing a trimming cut, so you can use both hands on the right side of the blade to push. If you wanted additional insurance, use a feather board. But I've made such cross cuts on the table saw just fine. Know your saw and your risks.

[John Sayen]

I have used Robert's method. A single-runner sled with the fence on the leading edge. This gives plenty of support on the infeed.

Frankly, if the rail on my table saw were long enough, I would feel comfortable cutting this using the rip fence. I think 30" is plenty of registration. Also, you are doing a trimming cut, so you can use both hands on the right side of the blade to push. If you wanted additional insurance, use a feather board. But I've made such cross cuts on the table saw just fine. Know your saw and your risks.

I had thought of this but with the nature of the crosscut, the fence would be registering against a probably-not-perpendicular line on the wood to execute the crosscut, which would result in a parallel probably-not-perpendicular line. After the crosscuts were completed then I'd have the opposite problem with a rip cut, if that makes sense.

[Bill Dufour]

radial arm saw.
Bil lD.

[John Lanciani]

radial arm saw.
Bil lD.

For a 30" crosscut?

[Shawn Pixley]

Panel cutting crosscut sled?

I built one several years back. It work great but is used seldomly and takes a lot of space.

However, for your project, I would use the track saw to get a 90 corner and then go to the table saw. You don’t need complicated set-ups to get square edges. Neanders do it all the time.

[Cary Falk]

For a 30" crosscut?

You would definitely have to flip the board but even at that the average RAS has a crosscut of around 13" so that wouldn't work.

[Ole Anderson]

Tracksaw. But I used a sled with my TS to cut off 30" doors before I got the tracksaw. Awkward but doable. Clamp the piece to the sled and support the overhang on a roller stand.

[Mike Cary]

Wow, so many answers. The solution seems so obvious. You have a track saw. It is made for that application. If you are afraid of it sliding, clamp it down.

[Harvey Miller]

If you don't have a longer rail, you can use two dogs to align the track square and use a single clamp with a dog at other end (to subsitute for the end clamp). That would get 36" crosscut. (parf dogs are $15 US per pair, $22 for large from Lee Valley, but any 20mm dowel would work)
381170
Once alignment done remove fence side dog


If you went with a 3 dog setup you can avoid the alignment issues and have a 37" cut:
381172

[Peter Kelly]

Great for panels too long or wide to fit through the MFT. Nice square cuts and no clamps needed.

https://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server500/86e7d/products/47/images/920/GRS-16-01__51148.1507955165.500.659.jpg

https://tsoproducts.com/tso-products-guide-rail-squares/grs-16-guide-rail-square

[Don Jarvie]

Since you have a few inches to cut off pick one long side of the plywood as your reference. Go in an inch and use a square for a 90 degree cut and clamp the track down and cut. Use that square side and crosscut using the TS fence and rip to width. Everything should be square.

[Rod Sheridan]

Hi use your tracksaw or take to a local buddy or shop with a sliding table saw.

Regards, Rod.

[Justin Ludwig]

I considered the tablesaw for a minute but it's way too wide to use a miter gauge, and utilizing the fence wouldn't produce a perpendicular cut to the currently perfectly parallel sides.

There's got to be a simple solution that I'm not thinking of.

The piece is 35"Hx30"W - looking to shorten it to 33"Hx30"W.

Thank you.

Why are you not getting square cuts with your fence? This thread is "much ado about nothing". Properly adjust your fence and you can make that cross cut all day.

Also, you're too reliant upon the MFT. Set the 35x30" piece on some 2x4s, make your marks, put down your track and make the cut. You're way overthinking this.

[John TenEyck]

This is exactly why I built a LARGE sled for my TS. It can cut something just over 40" wide. This little panel is only about 20" wide.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/npqfbmur-4ABScjGOJs3LZwbL5sN_ZlWoJOABytjdZD6Ce5IAPONs7Q15LY 6r0_8dRV_R-IgaIZSHQCdu38kbavHFqmiQXN7TtcZ17GZGQ4y_BvTIIOj6feO rcRt0xcOAAcAnIjMg1wDWAW9fvrg1jp58c5nZjmFlXq5p3PK4K 5KEhsHZ8H29OI9FtDmlCIWYqehlYm3sGMzdfUpKeBzN8CKpeUk pJ28FLA5BS6IfBVE8Ij6JMrLj-80Mk7AAm1aahs2UuRldeVMYY-TPtvnls0Md8TmdkS9KX7Kw1aakOF5kWvEpBZCfc5175mHpc9bN GVr6VnRgg-6pJ3_7sESDdLjGOl3tZFNiPIbi_6hQxVB4jHKWWQ9wjaWhgj7V Z-Bu2wP10TjkLR8GsNYuhkpnxhlZQM4k93Krm78ekkzPQHFNGTTU 16lFS0W2OqbK40xcMubGMd7wFwX4yMgw71TwGBc3X1kFRnDM3X GHsbsHphke70-e1XZlrDNwd8OxrUZOY80QhYriUB2pB82wYXKXF2fipKDhZBMRO fX5g1OGk2quFoOyRYeEq1yR_uLFv5Ev3ta9pCrfuHr54mDaQIW X3zdX6rS95wV28UECz1pF9_9WszfUOGFgv01_S50eYZKlk6qc_ WqJ3f9v-FwOohF-pVuxVkCMU_7ew=w835-h626-no

But you already have a tracksaw. I've cut off plenty of doors with nothing more than a straight edge and circular saw.

John

[Mike Heidrick]

For a 30" crosscut?

Mine will crosscut 29"
Delta Long Arm

[Edwin Santos]

Hi,
Is there a reason a person couldn't just temporarily hot glue (or double stick tape) a fence at 90 degrees to the underside of the track to basically make it into a T square track?

The aluminum track is as true as true gets. Turn it over, set the temporary fence against it towards the starting end with a combination square.

Edwin

[John Sayen]

Great for panels too long or wide to fit through the MFT. Nice square cuts and no clamps needed.

https://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server500/86e7d/products/47/images/920/GRS-16-01__51148.1507955165.500.659.jpg

https://tsoproducts.com/tso-products-guide-rail-squares/grs-16-guide-rail-square

This is exactly what I was looking for - thank you!

[Greg R Bradley]

You don't need an MFT to do this, it simply makes repetitive crosscuts and angle cuts easier and faster.

The most common FIRST function of a tracksaw and the 55" track that comes with it is to accurately cross cut 48" plywood. Just lay the track on your cut line or accurately measure the track position and cut it. You don't even need clamps. If you want to get really accurate, use a square to accurately position the track or make story sticks to make it accurately parallel to the other end.

If you were doing dozens, you could buy 4 parf dogs and turn the work the other direction on the MFT and do a dozen in 20 minutes.

[Bill Dufour]

For a 30" crosscut?

Your right my Dewalt GE maxes at 29". I think the Delta is less.

but you could flip the board I suppose.
Bill D

[Ted Phillips]

Knife the line and then cut with a Disston #8. ;)

[Simon MacGowen]

Hi all,



The piece is 35"Hx30"W - looking to shorten it to 33"Hx30"W.

Thank you.

Did anyone mention this already?: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_wH36OR4dYM

I tried it in a gathering and was amazed by its accuracy and simplicity. You can find many youtube reviews on this guy. Not cheap....

EDIT: Just realized Peter already shared it.

Simon

[John Sayen]

Did anyone mention this already?: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_wH36OR4dYM

I tried it in a gathering and was amazed by its accuracy and simplicity. You can find many youtube reviews on this guy. Not cheap....

EDIT: Just realized Peter already shared it.

Simon

I ordered one - thanks for the recommendations. I suppose I'll catch flack from the guy that said I'm too reliant upon my MFT. Oh well.

[Mike Cutler]

John

That looks like a pretty nice tool. I'd be interested in your observations and feedback on it.
If you just needed to do this just one time, you could have just carefully laid out the lines and cut to then with your track saw.But, you really should have an accurate and fast way to register the track for largish panels for the future anyway.

I use Brian Lamb's large square to align my track saw for larger panel cuts. If the GRS-16 doesn't do what you need it too, though I think it will, Brian's square is very accurate for laying out, and aligning a 90 degree reference with a track. I just got done doing some 55"x39" panels using it as my layout and alignment guide.

I wouldn't worry about catching any flak. Having accurate tools makes wood working so much easier, and efficient.
You paid a lot of $$$ to allow yourself to be reliant on the MFT table. That's what it's for. ;)

[Art Mann]

All I need is my Makita track saw and a framing square to do those type of cuts. I thought the TS-55 was a track saw. I don't understand the problem.

[Simon MacGowen]

All I need is my Makita track saw and a framing square to do those type of cuts. I thought the TS-55 was a track saw. I don't understand the problem.

The TSO rail square or the like (there are two other similar products) gives an accuracy that is hard to match with a framing square. Let's assume the framing square is indeed square, inaccuracy could still sneak in when you try to hold a square against the reference edge and set a long rail against the square. It will be better if you have a helper for the setting.

It might be ok using a framing square if a smaller piece is cut or if you have only one square cut to set and make. But 4 or 5 or more cut on 4'x 5' boards? The rail squares give better speed and results.

Like I said, the rail square isn't cheap. But is it accurate or more accurate than using a framing square?: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AmNyPvsfSCo


Simon

[Lee Schierer]

I considered the tablesaw for a minute but it's way too wide to use a miter gauge, and utilizing the fence wouldn't produce a perpendicular cut to the currently perfectly parallel sides.

There's got to be a simple solution that I'm not thinking of.

The piece is 35"Hx30"W - looking to shorten it to 33"Hx30"W.

Thank you.

The simple solution is to align your table saw fence with the miter slot and do the cut on your table saw either with the 33" piece against the fence or the 2-7/8" piece against the fence. If you table saw is properly aligned this type of cut is accurate and safe.

[Jim Becker]

All I need is my Makita track saw and a framing square to do those type of cuts. I thought the TS-55 was a track saw. I don't understand the problem.
He may have bought the saw to go with the MFT and didn't buy a longer rail...speculation on my part.

[John Sayen]

The TSO rail square or the like (there are two other similar products) gives an accuracy that is hard to match with a framing square. Let's assume the framing square is indeed square, inaccuracy could still sneak in when you try to hold a square against the reference edge and set a long rail against the square. It will be better if you have a helper for the setting.

It might be ok using a framing square if a smaller piece is cut or if you have only one square cut to set and make. But 4 or 5 or more cut on 4'x 5' boards? The rail squares give better speed and results.

Like I said, the rail square isn't cheap. But is it accurate or more accurate than using a framing square?: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AmNyPvsfSCo


Simon

I need to make a bunch of these crosscuts so I wanted something repeatable and reliable. Accuracy is important to me, and I have struggled with manually setting a track to square even with a woodpecker 12” square.

Maybe I’m not as good at it as everyone seems to think it’s easy, or maybe I am being too particular about it being perfectly square.

Either way it is what it is. I ordered a TSO unit.

[John Sayen]

He may have bought the saw to go with the MFT and didn't buy a longer rail...speculation on my part.

I have a longer rail but have struggled with making a perfect square cut even when using a woodpecker 12” square to line up the cross cut.

I ordered a TSO unit - thanks for your response.

[John Sayen]

John

That looks like a pretty nice tool. I'd be interested in your observations and feedback on it.
If you just needed to do this just one time, you could have just carefully laid out the lines and cut to then with your track saw.But, you really should have an accurate and fast way to register the track for largish panels for the future anyway.

I use Brian Lamb's large square to align my track saw for larger panel cuts. If the GRS-16 doesn't do what you need it too, though I think it will, Brian's square is very accurate for laying out, and aligning a 90 degree reference with a track. I just got done doing some 55"x39" panels using it as my layout and alignment guide.

I wouldn't worry about catching any flak. Having accurate tools makes wood working so much easier, and efficient.
You paid a lot of $$$ to allow yourself to be reliant on the MFT table. That's what it's for. ;)

I’ll try to remember to post some feedback on it. Thanks.

[John Sayen]

The simple solution is to align your table saw fence with the miter slot and do the cut on your table saw either with the 33" piece against the fence or the 2-7/8" piece against the fence. If you table saw is properly aligned this type of cut is accurate and safe.

Maybe I’m not describing the situation properly but I think you’re wrong. The two long edges are parallel, but the short edges are not parallel or perpendicular.

If I try to crosscut the short edge using the fence as a guide it will result in a parallel crosscut but it will certainly not be perpendicular to the long edges.

I ordered the TSO unit as it looks like it will solve this problem.

Thank you.

[Ken Kortge]

For those who use the EZ Smart Guide Rails from Eurekazone.com they could use the EZ Smart Miter Square (http://www.eurekazone.com/category-s/2072.htm) for making cross cuts in a manner similar to the TSO square, but the EZ Smart Miter Square also lets the user define an angle (in addition to a 90 degree angle) and make repeated miter cuts. Adding a Repeater makes what is called a "Cabinetmaker" which allows cuts of repeatable width.

Of course their EZ-One Woodworking Center will easily cut 48" lengths.

[Edwin Santos]

Hi,
I completely understand John (the OP) is solving the problem he presented with the purchase of a TSO unit which looks like a fine tool indeed.
For anyone else following this thread that might be inclined to make a crosscut table jig for accurate, large squaring cuts with a track saw, here is a video from Fine Woodworking where the author demonstrates how to make a simple jig for this purpose. I haven't done so yet, but I've been meaning to make one to keep in the corner of the shop for when I need it. I think it would be useful in the field also. Of course you could make it to whatever size capacity you need. I hope you find this helpful.

http://www.finewoodworking.com/2016/06/01/tracksaw-crosscut-table

Edwin

[Simon MacGowen]

Hi,
Of course you could make it to whatever size capacity you need. I hope you find this helpful.

http://www.finewoodworking.com/2016/06/01/tracksaw-crosscut-table

Edwin
A keeper! Thanks.

Simon

[John Sayen]

Hi,
I completely understand John (the OP) is solving the problem he presented with the purchase of a TSO unit which looks like a fine tool indeed.
For anyone else following this thread that might be inclined to make a crosscut table jig for accurate, large squaring cuts with a track saw, here is a video from Fine Woodworking where the author demonstrates how to make a simple jig for this purpose. I haven't done so yet, but I've been meaning to make one to keep in the corner of the shop for when I need it. I think it would be useful in the field also. Of course you could make it to whatever size capacity you need. I hope you find this helpful.

http://www.finewoodworking.com/2016/06/01/tracksaw-crosscut-table

Edwin

Thanks Edwin!

[Rich Engelhardt]

DeWalt used to make the DWS 5027 that fit both the DeWalt and Festool tracks. I'll have to check it on my Makita track to see if it fits that also.

For reasons known only to DeWalt, they quit making it.

The device was/is very highly thought of by the people over at the FOG.

I think I picked up one of the very last ones out there a few months ago for either $20 or $30. I just checked and nobody seems to have one just now. They do pop up from time to time though.

[John Sayen]

Following-up as requested, the TSO track square has been phenomenal - a definite game-changer for fast, square cross-cuts. My wide boards are now square corner-to-corner within a millimeter.

Thanks to everyone for the help, and to the person that recommended I check out the TSO.

John

[Peter Kelly]

John, glad to hear it worked out. Been very pleased with my TSO square as well, it's an extremely useful accessory for the track saw.

[glenn bradley]

I'm in the large sled camp. I have one that is good to 37" that was made for a specific piece. It has been around for years and earns it's foot print against the cyclone more often than I would have ever expected.

382608

I also made this little doo-jobber to support it while loading and positioning large stock.

382607 . 382609 . 382610