PM 8" Parallelogram Joiner out-feed lift handles?

[Alan Heffernan]

I am tuning up a "new to me" Powermatic PJ882 8" jointer. It has two handles that operate the elevation of the out feed table. Is this common? All the photos and documentation I have seen only shows one.

Here is a photo of mine.

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[Ed Labadie]

Interesting....mine has a bolt & jam nut where your lever is.

Never had to adjust it, so I'm no help.

Ed

[Matt Day]

I’ve never seen the lever where yours is shown but I think that’s an eccentric bushing (or cam adjuster) for getting the outfeed table parallel to the cutterhead. The Parallelogram jointers I’ve seen have two (one in front and one in back) eccentric bushings per table. Having a handle on it would make it a lot easier to adjust.

I wonder if that handle can be removed and used on the others for adjustment.

[Cary Falk]

The lever under the table raises it. The one on the front is part of the cam adjustment system to make the tables co-planar. From the manual it looks like you have to remove the hub to make the adjustments so I don't know what it is there for other than looks.
http://content.powermatic.com/assets/manuals/1610079_man_EN.pdf

[Alan Heffernan]

Thanks for the comments. I have just finished putting a Byrd Shelix in it and adjusted the outfeed table parallel to the Byrd axis. I did this with the eccentric cams as mentioned.

I then used a machinist straight edge and thickness gauges to adjust the infeed table coplanar with outfeed table. So it is tuned very tight now.

The two levers in the photo I posted have the same influence - they both adjust the height of the outfeed table. One of the four eccentric bushings to adjust the coplanar aspect of the outfeed is under the big bushing that holds the adjustment lever. The bushing and lever are set screwed to the shaft that rides the bushings. You do have to remove the bushing/lever to get to that particular eccentric to adjust it if necessary.

I have never seen this extra lever on a machine before? I circled the one that I have never seen before in this photo. So I am wondering if there are PM PJ882 owners or others out there that can shed light on this?

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[Cary Falk]

Did you read the manual that I linked to? Starting on page 17 it explains to use the lever you have circled to raise the whole outfeed table above the cutterhead.

Setting Tables Coplanar For optimum performance of the jointer, the infeed and outfeed tables must be coplanar; that is, parallel front-to-back and side-to-side. If they are not parallel in both planes, the finished workpiece may have a slight taper across its width or length. The tables have been properly aligned at the factory. However, they should be doublechecked by the operator in case any misalignment may have occurred during shipping. Also, as the machine receives use, this coplanarity should be checked occasionally and adjusted if necessary. The following procedure uses a steel straight edge to set the tables, which should be accurate enough for most purposes. This procedure demonstrates how to set the parallelism of the outfeed table; the procedure for the infeed table will be identical.
1. Disconnect jointer from power source.
2. Remove the cutterhead guard by loosening the set screw (see Figure 6) and lifting the guard shaft out of the hole.
3. Slide the fence assembly back as far as it will go, or remove it from the machine entirely (see page 28 for instructions on removing the fence).
4. Loosen the locking handle on the outfeed table (see A, Figure 23). Use the lifting handle (B, Figure 23) to raise the outfeed table higher than the cutterhead.
5. Place a straight edge across the front of the outfeed table and extending over the infeed table. See Figure 19.
6. Raise the infeed table until it contacts the straight edge. To raise the infeed table, loosen the locking handle (see A, Figure 28) and lift the adjustment arm (B, Figure 28). When it contacts the straight edge, tighten the locking handle (A, Figure 28).
7. The straight edge should lie evenly across both tables without gaps between straight edge and table. Move the straight edge to the back of the outfeed table, and perform the same test. See Figure 20.
8. If the straight edge does not lie evenly, the front or back of the table must be adjusted to make the tables coplanar. Proceed as follows.
9. Each table has four cam adjustment devices; two in front and two in back. (C, Figure 22 shows one of these).

NOTE: On the front of the Jointer, the two outside cams are concealed by the hubs. You must remove the hub to expose the cam adjustment device. Remove the socket head cap screw and flat washer at the center with a 6mm hex wrench, and loosen the setscrews in the hub (Figure 21 shows one of two set screw holes). NOTE: One of the holes contains two set screws; remove the upper setscrew and loosen the lower one. Pull the hub straight out to expose the cam adjustment device.
10. Pull the hub straight out to expose the cam adjustment device.
11. At the area of the table where the adjustment must be made, pry out the cap (A, Figure 22) from the hole.
12. There are two set screws in the hole. Insert a 4mm hex wrench (B, Figure 22) into the hole and loosen the upper set screw by turning the hex wrench counterclockwise. Remove the upper set screw from the hole.
13. Loosen the lower set screw (do not remove it) by turning counterclockwise with the hex wrench.
14. Turn the hex nut (C1, Figure 22) with a 11/4" wrench. This adjustment is sensitive and should be made in small increments. NOTE: The rotation is different for left and right hex nuts; the right hex nut (C1) being turned in Figure 22 will be turned clockwise to raise that area of the table, or counterclockwise to lower that area of the table. The left hex nut (C2) shown in Figure 22 would be rotated in the opposite manner.
15. Use the straight edge upon the tables to check the adjustment until the tables are coplanar.
16. When the adjustment is satisfactory, with the tables now coplanar, tighten the lower set screw with the hex wrench (B, Figure 22).
17. Insert and tighten the upper set screw. 18. Re-insert the cap (A, Figure 22) to keep dust and debris out of the hole.

To set outfeed table in relation to the knives, proceed as follows: 1. Disconnect jointer from power source. 2. Raise the outfeed table by loosening the locking handle (A, Figure 23) and using the lever (B).

[Mel Fulks]

I think it's taking the place of the old former hand wheel for outfeed adjustment height. If I remember right , there is a bolt that is turned slightly to serve as a stop that limits how much the table will be moved. I still prefer the old hand wheels which can be calibrated by owner.

[Alan Heffernan]

Did you read the manual that I linked to? Starting on page 17 it explains to use the lever you have circled to raise the whole outfeed table above the cutterhead.

Setting Tables Coplanar For optimum performance of the jointer, the infeed and outfeed tables must be coplanar; that is, parallel front-to-back and side-to-side. If they are not parallel in both planes, the finished workpiece may have a slight taper across its width or length. The tables have been properly aligned at the factory. However, they should be doublechecked by the operator in case any misalignment may have occurred during shipping. Also, as the machine receives use, this coplanarity should be checked occasionally and adjusted if necessary. The following procedure uses a steel straight edge to set the tables, which should be accurate enough for most purposes. This procedure demonstrates how to set the parallelism of the outfeed table; the procedure for the infeed table will be identical.
1. Disconnect jointer from power source.
2. Remove the cutterhead guard by loosening the set screw (see Figure 6) and lifting the guard shaft out of the hole.
3. Slide the fence assembly back as far as it will go, or remove it from the machine entirely (see page 28 for instructions on removing the fence).
4. Loosen the locking handle on the outfeed table (see A, Figure 23). Use the lifting handle (B, Figure 23) to raise the outfeed table higher than the cutterhead.
5. Place a straight edge across the front of the outfeed table and extending over the infeed table. See Figure 19.
6. Raise the infeed table until it contacts the straight edge. To raise the infeed table, loosen the locking handle (see A, Figure 28) and lift the adjustment arm (B, Figure 28). When it contacts the straight edge, tighten the locking handle (A, Figure 28).
7. The straight edge should lie evenly across both tables without gaps between straight edge and table. Move the straight edge to the back of the outfeed table, and perform the same test. See Figure 20.
8. If the straight edge does not lie evenly, the front or back of the table must be adjusted to make the tables coplanar. Proceed as follows.
9. Each table has four cam adjustment devices; two in front and two in back. (C, Figure 22 shows one of these).

NOTE: On the front of the Jointer, the two outside cams are concealed by the hubs. You must remove the hub to expose the cam adjustment device. Remove the socket head cap screw and flat washer at the center with a 6mm hex wrench, and loosen the setscrews in the hub (Figure 21 shows one of two set screw holes). NOTE: One of the holes contains two set screws; remove the upper setscrew and loosen the lower one. Pull the hub straight out to expose the cam adjustment device.
10. Pull the hub straight out to expose the cam adjustment device.
11. At the area of the table where the adjustment must be made, pry out the cap (A, Figure 22) from the hole.
12. There are two set screws in the hole. Insert a 4mm hex wrench (B, Figure 22) into the hole and loosen the upper set screw by turning the hex wrench counterclockwise. Remove the upper set screw from the hole.
13. Loosen the lower set screw (do not remove it) by turning counterclockwise with the hex wrench.
14. Turn the hex nut (C1, Figure 22) with a 11/4" wrench. This adjustment is sensitive and should be made in small increments. NOTE: The rotation is different for left and right hex nuts; the right hex nut (C1) being turned in Figure 22 will be turned clockwise to raise that area of the table, or counterclockwise to lower that area of the table. The left hex nut (C2) shown in Figure 22 would be rotated in the opposite manner.
15. Use the straight edge upon the tables to check the adjustment until the tables are coplanar.
16. When the adjustment is satisfactory, with the tables now coplanar, tighten the lower set screw with the hex wrench (B, Figure 22).
17. Insert and tighten the upper set screw. 18. Re-insert the cap (A, Figure 22) to keep dust and debris out of the hole.

To set outfeed table in relation to the knives, proceed as follows: 1. Disconnect jointer from power source. 2. Raise the outfeed table by loosening the locking handle (A, Figure 23) and using the lever (B).

Yes, I have read the manual. I even have it in printed form. I followed it to align the outfeed with the new Byrd and then to make both in and out feed tables coplanar. Yes, I used the eccentrics (cams) to adjust both tables. I am not talking about the cams.

Sorry if I have confused the issue. I am talking about having two levers to elevate the outfeed table.

My question in the first post in more clear form is, "Has anyone seen one of these with two handles on the outfeed?"

[Roger Bull]

I have not seen that extra lever before. Perhaps it was on the earlier models. Mine is about 5 years later (2012) than yours and does not have it. Here are a couple pics for comparison. Mine does appear to have the hole for an extra lever though.

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I would think it's worth a call to Powermatic to see if there is any added benefit to that lever.

[Mel Fulks]

I agree the one on side is eccentric adjustment ,it's a nice feature.

[Alan Heffernan]

Mel, sorry but the lever is for raising and lowering the outfeed table. It has no influence on the eccentric adjustment. The lever collar simply covers the eccentric and turns the shaft via the key on the shaft.

Roger, I took your advice and called Powermatic today. I was lucky to get a well informed gent on the phone. Turns out that the jointer is made so you can relocate the elevating handle for the outfeed table. You can have it in the collar as shown in your photo and as in most photos you see, including the one on the cover of the manual. Or you can unscrew it and move it to the underside of the outfeed table by screwing it into the "table raising link". The previous owner of mine must have bought an extra handle and put it in, who knows? Powermatic says they have never shipped one with two outfeed adjustment handles as mine is equipped. So the extra one would have had to been bought separately.

Here's a photo of the outfeed table lever adjuster pulled off the shaft to get to the eccentric for adjusting. Also a photo of the eccentric with a box end wrench on it for adjustment of the coplanarness of the outfeed table with the cutterhead and the infeed table. Thanks to all for the feedback and participating in this thread.

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[Roger Bull]

That makes sense but I didn't expect that answer. Since most people will rarely need to change the outfeed table height after it is setup it seems a more practical location. It would be a little less likely to be bumped and moved accidentally. I wonder if (during product development) the original location of the lever was under the table and someone thought that the machine looked more balanced visually to have the lever and hub basically matching the infeed lift lever and hub.

Thanks for posting the solution to the mystery.

[Mel Fulks]

Alan ,thanks for correction. It's been a few years since I used one.

[Alan Heffernan]

That makes sense but I didn't expect that answer. Since most people will rarely need to change the outfeed table height after it is setup it seems a more practical location. It would be a little less likely to be bumped and moved accidentally. I wonder if (during product development) the original location of the lever was under the table and someone thought that the machine looked more balanced visually to have the lever and hub basically matching the infeed lift lever and hub.

Thanks for posting the solution to the mystery.

Roger, the lever mounted under the outfeed table will give you a bit better leverage/lift because of its location in the linkage. However since its under the table it becomes a bit less efficient for reaching it.

I took the photo you posted of yours and circled the socket for the lever under the table. I think I will remove the one off the side and get it out of the way.

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[Andrew Hughes]

I remember reading a thread posted by a shop teacher. Removable hand wheels and levers on jointers school machines are a blessing. New students like to move handles and turn wheels to see what they do. Messing up your fine table settings.
Most that come to my shop stay away from my oliver jointer. After i show off what it does they become scared and confused. :^)

[Roger Bull]

Roger, the lever mounted under the outfeed table will give you a bit better leverage/lift because of its location in the linkage. However since its under the table it becomes a bit less efficient for reaching it.

I took the photo you posted of yours and circled the socket for the lever under the table. I think I will remove the one off the side and get it out of the way.

I did notice the cutout and threaded hole on mine. I'll probably move my lever as well. No reason to change it after getting everything setup. Thanks.