Air hose repair and new hose recommendations?

[Mike Manning]

I need to buy a new hose for my air compressor but I also want to repair my old hose.

Recommendations on a new hose for use with a 1HP California Air Tools 5510 SE air compressor?

Are rubber air hoses generally repairable in cases where air is leaking at the end of the hose where the metal fitting is crimped onto the hose? The old hose is a 25' 3/8" Chinese rubber hose that came with a used PC pancake compressor I picked up off CL. This is the end that attaches to the compressor. What is this piece called that allows the rubber hose to be used with an air compressor? What tool is used to crimp the metal fitting onto the hose?

Any other related thoughts are appreciated.

PS
Some background on how I use my air compressor. I don't use it a lot. Mostly for the occasional nail gun (18 gauge) use and to blow wood or metal parts off. I usually move the compressor to where I'm using it.


Thanks!
Mike

[Peter Kelly]

3/8 x 25' USA made hose is $13.85 at Harry Epstein.

https://www.harryepstein.com/index.php/3-8-x-25-red-rubber-air-hose.html

[Mike Cutler]

Mike

I've been using the Flexzilla line of hoses. They seem to be fairly decent. I also like the fluorescent yellow color. It sticks out.

The factory hose end is crimped into place with a hydraulic crimper.( I have to tool at work.) The fitting is just a crimped NPT fitting. They come in all sizes and configurations. You could probably find a manual model if you looked, but I think the cost would be more than just buying a new hose.

[Ken Kortge]

I like my green 3/8" Flexilla (http://www.flexzilla.com/air/) air hose with 1/4" fittings. It is - well - flexible - and easy to work with. I had to purchase and attach the metal Type D quick-connect couplers (male on one end - female on the other) myself, but it's easy to do with some teflon tape and a wrench.

[Myk Rian]

HF sells Goodyear hoses. Like the ones I used in my working days.

[Tom M King]

I've used nothing but the 2-ear air hose clamps for 40 years. There are special pliers sold to crimp them, but I've never used anything but end cutting nippers. I'm still using a couple of air hoses I bought from Senco in 1975, that came with that type of clamp. I think you might be able to buy individual ones at Fastenal. The hose end fitting has to be the barbed kind that slides into the hose, but you can get those at Ace hardware.

You might think that the ears would stick out the sides too far, but it has never been a problem.

https://www.amazon.com/Swordfish-32310-Clamp-Assortment-Piece/dp/B014I5HM26/ref=pd_bxgy_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B014I5HM26&pd_rd_r=884YNTW88GGQYN691YJQ&pd_rd_w=fVsQV&pd_rd_wg=7vREP&psc=1&refRID=884YNTW88GGQYN691YJQ

[Jim Becker]

I use Flexeel reinforced poly hoses and really like them...they are very light-weight and flexible. I also have a Flexzilla 3.8" hose on a reel which is "convenient", but it tends to have a mind of its own sometimes. The only rubber hose I have is now dedicated to the CNC machine that's about to live in my shop, but I can affirmatively say they can be repaired/re-terminated quite easily with barb connectors and hose clamps. You can get the repair parts at Home Depot or Lowes or whatever big box store is convenient to your geography.

[Dave Richards]

What is this piece called that allows the rubber hose to be used with an air compressor? What tool is used to crimp the metal fitting onto the hose?

If the air is leaking out the end of the hose around the fitting, you can most likely reuse it. You'll need a ferrule to fit the hose and a crimping tool to fit. Cut an inch or so off the the hose to get to good material. Slip the ferrule on the hose and shove the fitting in. Sometimes it helps to use a little water to lubricate the end of the fitting. I've terminated more than 500 gas hoses over my career in Anesthesia. Mostly for medical gasses. We had several different crimpers from ones that could be used in a vise and ones that look like a Vise Grip to ones with a long lever and different sized crimping dies. My favorite was like this.

https://cloudfront.zoro.com/product/full/Z3_3_xfo5oy.JPG
https://www.zoro.com/zoro-select-hose-crimper-14-38-in-capacity-6cec4/i/G0440973/

If you have a Praxair near you, you could check with them. For one crimp it probably doesn't make sense to buy a crimper. They might be able to repair the hose for you.

[Bill Dufour]

Watch out for HF hoses they switched to China made hoses several years ago. the problem is the brass fitting hex is to short for a normal wrench. the wrench jams between the fittings about one turn before the joint is tight enough to stop leaking. Only cure is to grind the wrench so it is thinner or buy a service wrench thin enough to use.
Sears garden hoses have the same issue now, but I refuse to grind my thumb width down to fit, so i have to use a wrench to prevent leaks.
Bill D.

[Bruce Wrenn]

Grainger used to sell, and may still do, sell replacable ends. They screwed into hose, and then furrel screwed over hose. But with a new 50' hose costing less than $20, it doesn't make economic sense to repair an existing hose. That's coming from a true tight wad! Look up "tight wad," and my picture is the illustration.

[Mike Manning]

Bruce,
I don't mind at all buying a new one for myself and throwing away the old one BUT I want to sell my old PC pancake compressor and I figure it'll sell quicker if I advertise it with a rubber hose. That and I'm also not the person adding that waste to the local landfill. It;s it is going to cost me more than $10 to fix...forget it.

Mike

[Jim Becker]

Shouldn't cost you more than about five bucks with a repair kit from HD...I looked at them today, as a matter of face while I was browsing for other things.

[Roy Petersen]

I use Flexeel reinforced poly hoses and really like them
I like the look of those, and will probably get one at some point. Good and strong 1/4" is hard to come by.

they can be repaired/re-terminated quite easily with barb connectors and hose clamps. You can get the repair parts at Home Depot or Lowes or whatever big box store is convenient to your geography.
^^This.
I've repaired ends as well as mid hose (building partner cut through them with alarming regularity) with these, and it's cheap and durable. For mid hose repairs, adding a wrap of duct tape to prevent snags while dragging the hose is a good idea.

[Dave Cav]

I can affirmatively say they can be repaired/re-terminated quite easily with barb connectors and hose clamps. You can get the repair parts at Home Depot or Lowes or whatever big box store is convenient to your geography.

I keep a box of air hose repair fittings and hose clamps in the shop because it seems like something is always springing a leak. You can re-use the factory fitting without too much trouble. I cut the crimped-on ferrule off using a dremel tool cutoff wheel (cut along the long axis in two places and peel it off with pliers), then cut the hose back and use a small hose clamp to hold the fitting in place.

[Rollie Meyers]

If the air is leaking out the end of the hose around the fitting, you can most likely reuse it. You'll need a ferrule to fit the hose and a crimping tool to fit. Cut an inch or so off the the hose to get to good material. Slip the ferrule on the hose and shove the fitting in. Sometimes it helps to use a little water to lubricate the end of the fitting. I've terminated more than 500 gas hoses over my career in Anesthesia. Mostly for medical gasses. We had several different crimpers from ones that could be used in a vise and ones that look like a Vise Grip to ones with a long lever and different sized crimping dies. My favorite was like this.

https://cloudfront.zoro.com/product/full/Z3_3_xfo5oy.JPG
https://www.zoro.com/zoro-select-hose-crimper-14-38-in-capacity-6cec4/i/G0440973/

If you have a Praxair near you, you could check with them. For one crimp it probably doesn't make sense to buy a crimper. They might be able to repair the hose for you.

I bought a crimper like that at estate/ yard sale for $5, just bought a couple of sizes of brass ferrules off Amazon, but not put them to work yet, but did use one at a past employer & they do the job well.

Edit: when I did not have access to a crimper used hose clamps, they did the job cheap but hose clamps can snag on things.

[Mike Manning]

I keep a box of air hose repair fittings and hose clamps in the shop because it seems like something is always springing a leak. You can re-use the factory fitting without too much trouble. I cut the crimped-on ferrule off using a dremel tool cutoff wheel (cut along the long axis in two places and peel it off with pliers), then cut the hose back and use a small hose clamp to hold the fitting in place.

That's definitely the most resourceful answer yet Dave! Not to say they haven't all been great ideas and suggestions but that one should let me fix the hose without a dime out of pocket.

[Allan Dozier]

I have repaired air hoses with the ear clamps similar to Tom's. Mine are Oetiker clamps I bought for some boat repair. I also adapted a rubber air hose to supply air to a lift in the center of a concrete slab through conduit with the same clamps. All are working fine.
As a side note, I replaced all my quick connects (mostly Milton) with Prevost ones. They have been super. No air leaks like the Miltons and they release in two steps so no hose ends flying around.

[Tom M King]

By the time I ever saw a Prevost coupler, I was so heavily invested in Milton couplers, and plugs that it would not be worth it to change. I have way too many air tools to have a coupler on each tool, so each air tool has a plug, and the hose end has the coupler. The Milton coupler does not let air out at release, so the hose does not fly around.

Another advantage of the ear type clamps is that you can use the couplers, and plugs with the built in hose barb, so the minimum stuff is on the end of the hose. You can use an ear type clamp, and not have to own a fancy crimper that you can get back off the hose if you use the coupler with the built in barb.

The edges of the two eared clamps are rounded over, and I don't remember ever scratching anything with one. They are tucked up close to the coupler anyway, so the body of the coupler is much wider than the ears stick out anyway.

I looked, but couldn't find a place online that sells singles of the 2 eared clamp.

When a hose coupler wears out, I can get them off by driving the smallest size nail set into the ear, and twisting it to open it up. I have reused them, when I wasn't where my spares are.

[Ole Anderson]

My portable Husky compressor gets used mainly for nail guns. I recently bought a 50' 1/4" poly hose for it. Might be a Flexeel. Works way better as far as coils and tangles, than my old 3/8" vinyl hose. Hose with the least memory and best cold weather performance? Rubber. Also the thickest. I use a Flexeel 3/8" size hose on a reel in my garage off my bigger compressor, needed to get the air to bigger tools, particularly the impact wrench. Nail guns don't use much air, 1/4" size hose is fine.

[John K Jordan]

I've cut air hoses on purpose (to make them shorter) and put on plenty of ends. I use hose clamps on hose barbs. Also, the local welding supply store will put new ends on nearly any size of hose for cheap and the results looks like a factory crimp.

JKJ

[Lisa Starr]

You can purchase a replacement end that is a compression style from McMaster-Carr:

Fittings
Fittings come with everything you need to assemble them. Fittings that swivel until tightened are easy to install. Fittings with aspring guard prevent kinking.






https://images1.mcmaster.com/mvA/contents/gfx/small/5644k53p1-c01gs.png?ver=1395305160
https://images1.mcmaster.com/mvA/contents/gfx/small/5644k63p1-c01gs.png?ver=1395305161
https://images1.mcmaster.com/mvA/contents/gfx/small/5644k82p1-c01gs.png?ver=1395305161
https://images1.mcmaster.com/mvA/contents/gfx/small/5644k72p1-c01gs.png?ver=1395305160







Male Straight
(Swivels Until Tightened)



Male Straight




Male 90°
Elbow



Female
Straight




For
Hose ID
Pipe
Size
Connection
Max. Pressure

Each

Each

Each

Each


1/8"
1/8
Brass Threaded NPT with Spring Guard
300 psi @ 72° F
5644K51 (https://www.mcmaster.com/#5644K51)
$10.02
5644K61 (https://www.mcmaster.com/#5644K61)
$2.94
5644K81 (https://www.mcmaster.com/#5644K81)
$3.87
______
__


3/16"
1/4
Brass Threaded NPT with Spring Guard
285 psi @ 72° F
5644K52 (https://www.mcmaster.com/#5644K52)
18.43
5644K62 (https://www.mcmaster.com/#5644K62)
2.93
5644K82 (https://www.mcmaster.com/#5644K82)
4.39
5644K71 (https://www.mcmaster.com/#5644K71)
$3.01


1/4"
1/4
Brass Threaded NPT with Spring Guard
240 psi @ 72° F
5644K53 (https://www.mcmaster.com/#5644K53)
7.26
5644K63 (https://www.mcmaster.com/#5644K63)
2.93
5644K83 (https://www.mcmaster.com/#5644K83)
5.18
5644K72 (https://www.mcmaster.com/#5644K72)
2.89


5/16"
1/4
Brass Threaded NPT with Spring Guard
210 psi @ 72° F
5644K54 (https://www.mcmaster.com/#5644K54)
18.32
5644K64 (https://www.mcmaster.com/#5644K64)
3.20
5644K84 (https://www.mcmaster.com/#5644K84)
5.88
5644K73 (https://www.mcmaster.com/#5644K73)
3.59


3/8"
3/8
Brass Threaded NPT with Spring Guard
225 psi @ 72° F
5644K55 (https://www.mcmaster.com/#5644K55)
11.15
5644K65 (https://www.mcmaster.com/#5644K65)
5.23
5644K85 (https://www.mcmaster.com/#5644K85)
6.48
5644K74 (https://www.mcmaster.com/#5644K74)
5.17


1/2"
1/2
Brass Threaded NPT with Spring Guard
220 psi @ 72° F
5644K56 (https://www.mcmaster.com/#5644K56)
18.27
5644K66 (https://www.mcmaster.com/#5644K66)
9.67
5644K86 (https://www.mcmaster.com/#5644K86)
8.62
5644K75 (https://www.mcmaster.com/#5644K75)
8.06


3/4"
3/4
Brass Threaded NPT
160 psi @ 72° F
5644K57 (https://www.mcmaster.com/#5644K57)
70.02
______
__
______
__
______
__






They also sell the coil style hose by the foot, so you can make up the length you want.

[Tom M King]

I forgot about these: I know we're not supposed to post a link to the auction site here, but copy and paste this into the search box there:

Flexzilla 1/4" Air Hose Field Repairable Hose End Legacy RP900250 Aluminum New

[Mike Manning]

I was in Lowe's yesterday and took a look at their air hoses. They had two Hitachi Koki hoses 1/4" x 50'. One is called a Hybrid hose and the other is Polyurethane. Even though the hose is 1/4" (I assume that's ID.) the brass connectors look like they are the same OD as on my 3/8" hose. The hybrid hose is $19.98 and the poly hose is $23.98. I'm wondering if these would be reasonable options considering how I use my air compressor?

Does anyone have any hands-on experience with these hoses? Would you mind sharing?

381386381387

Thanks!

[Jim Becker]

The poly hose is very similar to the Flexeel hoses I use...except for the color. :) That would be the one I'd choose of the two, personally...

[John K Jordan]

I have some lightweight 100' lengths of hose I think is similar to the hybrid hose you show. These were great until one day one mysteriously developed a huge number of tiny pinholes on one end. I cut that end of and moved the fitting and the rest of the hose has been ok.

If I need more hose I think I'll buy a better quality. (I sometimes run 2-300' of hose to some point on the farm, even when I have enough 10 and 12 gauge extensions cords to put a portable air compressor at the site - long air hoses are far better than shorter air hoses and long extension cords.)

JKJ

[Mike Manning]

The poly hose is very similar to the Flexeel hoses I use...except for the color. :) That would be the one I'd choose of the two, personally...

Jim, I noticed a "tackiness" with the poly hose IIRC. Has that ever been a problem or an annoyance in any way?

[Rick Potter]

+1 on what Dave Cav said. I have done this several times. Perfect way to go on the one you are selling.

[Jim Becker]

Jim, I noticed a "tackiness" with the poly hose IIRC. Has that ever been a problem or an annoyance in any way?

I'm not sure why there would be an "tackiness" with the poly hose...mine are not like that. The Flexilla "foamy" (hybrid" hose in my real is kinda like that, however. I don't like it nearly as much as the Flexeel hoses, but it serves a purpose with it's retractability. I have an air system in my shop, so I use a combination of "coiled" polyurethane hoses and "regular" polyurethane hoses; the former for pneumatic tools and the latter generally for spraying an when I need the distance.

[Mike Manning]

I'm not sure why there would be an "tackiness" with the poly hose...mine are not like that. The Flexilla "foamy" (hybrid" hose in my real is kinda like that, however. I don't like it nearly as much as the Flexeel hoses, but it serves a purpose with it's retractability. I have an air system in my shop, so I use a combination of "coiled" polyurethane hoses and "regular" polyurethane hoses; the former for pneumatic tools and the latter generally for spraying an when I need the distance.


Okay...That's why I put the IIRC (If I recall correctly) and I didn't. I watched a Youtube video yesterday and I guess it was the hybrid hose. I looked at both poly and hybrid Hitachi hoses and recalled one of them was tacky. Again, must have been the hybrid. Thanks for clarifying!

[Tom M King]

I used a Flexzilla repair end today, on a 1/4" Polyurethane (one of the cheap blue ones) hose not of their brand. I had ordered it from Amazon for $5.14 with free shipping a couple of days ago. I had to soak the end of the hose under hot water to get it over the barb, but after it was warm, it wasn't too difficult to get it on.

Don't try to save money, and buy the cheap polyurethane hoses with the blue rubberish "strain reliefs". I've seen those sold under several brand names, like at Tractor Supply, and the one I fixed today was one of those. The hose itself seems fine, but that kind of hose does kink easily, but doesn't seem to suffer any damage after straightening the kink.

The design of that Flexilla end seems pretty good, but it is made of plastic, but hopefully some really tough plastic. They have their whole line of hoses coming with that same end, in all the sizes, so it must be pretty well tested. The strain relief is a good design, and snaps over the fitting pretty securely.

I use the 1/4" urethane hoses in finished houses, and keep them clean just for that use. They won't feed a big framing nailer as fast, and long as you want to bump nail it, but you need a BIG compressor for than anway. For Framing nailers, and almost everything else, I use a 3/8 braided hose-sorry don't know the makeup exactly, but 2-100 foot hoses have been in use since 1975, and worn out a few of all ends over that time, but hose is still just fine.

A 3/8" hose won't feed a 3/4" impact gun for very long, but will operate a 1/2" impact gun as much as you want to use it. For the 3/4" gun, a 1/2" hose gets the call, but I don't use that often enough to put extra money in the hose, so it's one of the cheaper ones, and I don't like dragging a 1/2" hose around any more than absolutely necessary anyway. The same goes for the rock drill, and small jack hammer, which require a 3/4" hose to get any work at all out of them, and I still have to wait for the 10hp compressor sometimes with them, but don't want to buy, or rent, and listen to a diesel generator. Those get used so seldom, that I also went the cheapest way possible on the 3/4" hoses.

Over the years, I've had various rubber hoses, but most have been tossed because they get so dirty that I don't want to drag them over anything, or even around in the mechanic shop.

edited to add: I've ordered two more, different types, of all brass replacement ends for the 1/4" hose. I'll post pictures when they come. I expect short lives out of the remaining three ends, on the two 1/4" urethane hoses I have.

[Mike Manning]

Tom,
I apologize but I'm a little confused about what king of hoses you prefer. Sounds like rubber is out because they get so dirty. Is polyurethane the same as urethane? Am I clear to understand that you don't have a Flexzilla hose but are using their strain relief components on some other brand poly/urethane hoses?

If I've got that right are you recommending the polyu?/urethane hoses?

Again, I apologize for being a bit dense but I haven't used an air compressor for very long.

Mike

[Tom M King]

Depending on which way I end up going today, I may be able to take some pictures.

The Poly/urethane type hose I'm talking about is semi-transparent, and you can see the braid inside it. They usually come in blue. The kind I'm saying to stay away from is the cheap ones with a swivel on both ends. If I get to take pictures today, I can show you the inside of the swivel end, and why to stay away from them.

Here is a picture of the Flexilla repair end on the polyurethane/urethane hose I put it on yesterday. This started out as one of the cheap hoses I'm saying to avoid now. The hose itself is fine. The swivel ends that come on it are junk.

[Allan Dozier]

By the time I ever saw a Prevost coupler, I was so heavily invested in Milton couplers, and plugs that it would not be worth it to change. I have way too many air tools to have a coupler on each tool, so each air tool has a plug, and the hose end has the coupler. The Milton coupler does not let air out at release, so the hose does not fly around.

I agree. The flying problem happens on the male barb side which in my case is on the downstream side. It's due to the build up air in the hose, like a balloon you let go. Admittedly it is not a huge problem, usually just when having to use two hoses hooked together and dragging the connection causes the female side to release. The main reason I replaced the Miltons was they had leaks when hooked up. Listening to the hissing was irritating. The Prevost one have been air tight.
The Prevost works in two stages, you push the male barb in two stops and to release you push the button twice. The first push releases all the air in the downstream hose but still holds the barb until the second push.
I've also got a few Oetiker connectors to try. They seem to work and seal well.
They work by inserting the barb and rotating it a quarter turn until straight. If I can get an iPhone photo to upload I can post a photo but that is a different challenge.

[Tom M King]

Here are some more pictures. First picture is of two eared clamps.

Second picture is a 43 year old connector. It's the type that doesn't require a threaded adapter, as it has a barbed end built in. The 2 eared clamp tucks up close, so the ears don't ever get in the way, but allow for a connector end that has the most possible flexibility.

Third picture, of the 1/2" Speedaire, is the type of hose I'd recommend if you only have one hose. It's very resistant to kinking, but still plenty flexible enough, doesn't hold dirt that you can't wipe off like rubber hoses do, and are very tough. The old 3/8" hose in the second picture is the same type. Speedaire says it's made by Flexilla, only in their color, and it does have metal ends on it.

Last picture is rubber hose with a newer connector end, also held on with a two eared clamp. That particular connector serves as the swivel on that hose reel, also from 1975. If you ever find one of these reels, buy it. It has never leaked, and I've only worn out one of those connectors over that time. Other hose reels I have, with specially designed swivels, have all developed leaks much sooner than one of this type does. Sadly, I don't think these reels are made any more.

I prefer reels that you crank, and keep old t-shirts to wipe the hose off as it's being reeled in.

I've only had trouble with Milton ends leaking after it's been used for several decades, and just plain wore out. The one in the second picture has stayed on that reel most of its life, as the connector between two hundred foot hoses. The outer hundred foot hose is off serving another purpose right now, so that one is visible. Wear is from dragging it in and out hundreds of times, and many times through dirt. It still doesn't leak, but hasn't been disconnected many times over those years.

[Tom M King]

Here's the reason I say not to buy the cheap hoses with swivel ends on both ends. The piece with the barb on it, still attached to the hose is push/snapped into the other piece, and the only thing holding it is a partially circular piece of brass wire bent into the rounded shape for the clip. When it lets go, there is a metal end (the one with the barb in the picture) that will flail about wildly, since the hose is so flexible.

[Mike Manning]

I googled "Speedaire 3/8" air hose made by Flexzilla" and got a link to the big auction site by Cripe Dist. Looks just like your hose and comes with metal only at one end - a brass 1/4" male NPT. It does have the strain protection on that end as well. I notice that the hoses offered by Flexzilla come with aircraft aluminum metal at both ends. How well do people like these?

Tom,
Thanks for all the info. It's a lot to absorb. I gather that you prefer the double ear clamps over any other would that be correct? That hose is $31 for 50' with shipping. I think I'm gonna go with that.

Mike

[John K Jordan]

...hoses offered by Flexzilla come with aircraft aluminum metal at both ends. How well do people like these?
...

I haven't tried those but in given the choice I avoid aluminum hose fittings for both air and water. Quick-connect fittings wear quicker with repeated use. Aluminum fastened to a dissimilar metal can corrode quicker, especially on water hoses. I've had them nearly bond and needed tools to remove what should have been a hand operation. Maybe this is not be a problem with air hoses since they aren't usually left out in the weather and the tape or goop might protect the aluminum. Also, we seldom remove threaded air hose connections once made.

JKJ

[Tom M King]

I guess that Flexell repair end I used was aluminum, instead of plastic. I didn't spend any time reading anything about them. It is so lightweight, and the black coating on it so perfect, that I thought it was plastic. They have their whole line based on those ends, so I expect they are okay.

I've never spent any time to amount to anything thinking about an air hose purchase. I bought five Senco nailguns, that reel in the picture, and the air hose on it, from a salesman that came to my jobsite in a boat in 1975. He came back the next day with my order, and gave me a handfull of those two eared clamps, that I still have some of, and use occasionally.

I'd certainly use that type over a regular, worm screw type of clamp that has the big screw on one side, and a metal tail to stick out.

If you question the boat, I thought it strange to start with too, but when I asked him, and got the answer, I thought he was a genius. It was a still day on the lake. He said all he had to do was go out in the middle of the lake, turn the motor off, and listen for hammers.

[Scott T Smith]

We make up a lot of hoses here on the farm, including high pressure hydraulic lines. For air hose, I've used brass crimp fittings, Oetiker clamps and regular hose clamps on my air hoses. Recently I switched over to Gates Power Grip hose clamps. These are a very heavy-duty heat strink clamp that works well with multi-barbed fittings.

Although primarily marketed for automotive applications, they have worked just fine with my air hoses. It is important to have an aggressive barb though.

I prefer them because I don't have a metal part sticking out from the clamp to hang up or scratch surfaces.

Here is what they look like installed.

381760

[Scott T Smith]

If the air is leaking out the end of the hose around the fitting, you can most likely reuse it. You'll need a ferrule to fit the hose and a crimping tool to fit. Cut an inch or so off the the hose to get to good material. Slip the ferrule on the hose and shove the fitting in. Sometimes it helps to use a little water to lubricate the end of the fitting. I've terminated more than 500 gas hoses over my career in Anesthesia. Mostly for medical gasses. We had several different crimpers from ones that could be used in a vise and ones that look like a Vise Grip to ones with a long lever and different sized crimping dies. My favorite was like this.

https://cloudfront.zoro.com/product/full/Z3_3_xfo5oy.JPG
https://www.zoro.com/zoro-select-hose-crimper-14-38-in-capacity-6cec4/i/G0440973/

If you have a Praxair near you, you could check with them. For one crimp it probably doesn't make sense to buy a crimper. They might be able to repair the hose for you.

Dave, that's a nice looking crimper. I have a welding hose repair kit that I've been using for two of the standard weldign hose sizes, but I like the one that you linked to better. Thanks for sharing.

[Mac McQuinn]

I like rubber hoses, they stay flexible in the cold, they're easy to wind and they last. My hose; https://www.tekton.com/3-8-inch-id-x-25-foot-rubber-air-hose-46335
Made in USA and I've found Tektron to be great to deal with.
Mac

[Dave Richards]

Dave, that's a nice looking crimper. I have a welding hose repair kit that I've been using for two of the standard weldign hose sizes, but I like the one that you linked to better. Thanks for sharing.

I actually enjoyed using that crimper. For medical gas hoses I would crimp once, turn the hose 90° and crimp again. If the fittings are too large to pass through the die when the handle is fully raise, you can leave the screws on top loose and remove the front one so you can slide the hose out.

[Mike Manning]

I purchased the Speedaire 3/8" 50' hose made by Flexzilla from Cripe Distributing via that big auction site. $31 to my door with arrival slated for Friday. Sounds like it has the strain protection on the ends but metal on only one end - brass 1/4" NPT.

PS I didn't get a chance to fix that old rubber hose. A guy was at my home yesterday buying a Delta shaper from me. He decided he wanted my little PC pancake compressor and I sent the hose with it. But at least I've learned how to do it if/when I need to.