Saw to the line, chop, pare, repeat.

[Mark Stutz]

Well, still practicing but getting better. Hopefuuly soon will be able to try a "real" dovetail joint. I find I like the western style saw better. I'm glueing up a blank to turn a roung mallet since I think that will give be more control. I had not tried it before, but actually glueing up a trial joint and then planing it is very helpful. They really do look better than when only dry fitted. Well, enough rambling for tonite. Back to the shop tomorow.

Mark

[Steve Schoene]

Doing the same thing in my shop. I have 4 sets of half-blind dovetails to do on the 16" wide lower carcass of my book press project. Fortunately, all four of these are completely and permanently hidden by other construction details. You can't even see them with the top units removed, or if the base were turned upside down. Hopefully by the time these are completed enough of the rust will have been removed for when I get to the top unit in which some are visible only when the top isn't in place. After the four semi-hidden sets on the top unit, I should be really tuned up in time to do the drawer, where the dovetails are easily seen.

[Dan Forman]

I finally started my first real dovetails, drawers for my workbench. Got two out of three done, will finish up tomorrow. Glad they are just for the workbench and won't be on display to the general public. :eek:

Dan

[Michael Gabbay]

Mark - sounds like you are ready. I'm still a novice at DTs. What I do is cut tails first and then pins. I cut to the waste side on the pins a little. I can easily trim the pin to fit. Use a lead pencil rubbed on the tail to determine where things are binding.