Drill press help needed asap

[mark stanley]

HI- I bought a 17" Steel City drill press. It was 400$ out the door, and I added an albrecht keyless chuck- which cost more than the drill press. This drill press HAS THE POTENTIAL- to be very good. When I am using a forstner bit, a drum (for sanding), or even drilling hardwood with a regular twist drill, the motor stays running, the belts/pulleys continue to turn, but the spindle and chuck STOP. I have tried it on different speeds, I have looked very carefully and have watched to confirm that this isn't simply the belts slipping on the pulleys. I wish it were that simple.

Does anyone have any idea what could be going on? Its incredibly frustrating and there is no mention of this problem anywhere.

Thank you!!

[Jim Becker]

Is the taper fully seated?

[michael langman]

How did the new chuck go into the spindle? If it has a tapered shank it may be slipping. Try the chuck that came with the drill press and see if that works. An interna key could be sheared but not sure how your drill press is made.

[Ole Anderson]

You spent more for the chuck than for the DP???

[mark stanley]

Yes---it is. I had a problem with the cheapo chuck that came with it- (falling off), and when I got the albrecht I no longer had issues. I can see the entire spindle or quill or whatever- not spinning but the pulleys are turning. I originally thought the belt was slipping- but its not. I wish it were that simple. Its like there is some kind of clutch where that spindle and pulley meet.

[mark stanley]

Yes, because I can use that chuck for many things--- and it will last several years. The cheapo chuck that comes with it would fall off, would allow drill bits to slip and in general was worth about what they cost new (20$)- The albrecht chuck is keyless and is probably not worth 400$, but all that high quality stuff for machine shops is not cheap. The difference in quality is huge===and for what its worth- Even a big jacobs chuck for a drill press is spendy- about 100$-

[Jeff Heath]

I have no idea if it is the same for a "Steel City" drill press, but spindles are driven by the pulley they are mounted to, since it is belt drive. Chances are, the the keyway has either gotten damaged enough for the key or drive pin to either sheer or come off. Check the connection between the pulley above the spindle (not the one connected to the motor) by removing the belt. If you can grab the spindle with one hand, holding it firmly, and spin the belt pulley without turning the spindle, there's your problem. Something in there broke.

These chinese made machines are made from soft metal parts, and alot of the pulleys are nothing more than pot metal. They don't even make the effort to key in a solid cast iron or steel hub to prevent this sort of thing from happening.

I catch hell a lot around here for promoting vintage american machinery over the new "stuff" at the rockler's, home depot's, and wood crafts of the world, but this is the reason why.

Check this connection and report back. You either have a galled up spindle keyway, a broken hub on the pulley, or if you're very, very lucky, just the key or woodruff key or sheer pin (cheapest option) may have just come out or broken.

[Geoff Crimmins]

I originally thought the belt was slipping- but its not. I wish it were that simple. Its like there is some kind of clutch where that spindle and pulley meet.

Is there a loose or missing set screw on the pulley? Can you get above the drill press and look down on the pulley and shaft to see what's spinning and what isn't?

[Malcolm McLeod]

Yes---it is. I had a problem with the cheapo chuck that came with it- (falling off), and when I got the albrecht I no longer had issues. I can see the entire spindle or quill or whatever- not spinning but the pulleys are turning. I originally thought the belt was slipping- but its not. I wish it were that simple. Its like there is some kind of clutch where that spindle and pulley meet.

I pulled up a parts manual for the Steel City (not sure if it's yours exactly), but it confirms my suspicions - - there is very little chance that they installed a clutch. (It looks like every import built in the last 30 yrs - - inlcd my Central Machinery version.)

This is the parts blow-up for the area I think is your issue:
380875

I don't see a set screw or a key to lock the pulley to the quill. Diagram is not great, but I'd look at nut (93) to see if it is tight on the sleeve (11) - - I THINK this is threaded, but not sure.

If its tight and #11 is turning, then the issue probably lies further down - perhaps in parts 12-16? Looks like #14 is splined to drive the spindle (50), and this may be damaged....???

Hope this helps and good luck.

[mark stanley]

WOW- I did NOT ask for bad news. I just wanted someone to tell me to adjust something or clean it----Ridiculous. However, at least you have offered me the only logical explanation---everyone else (well not on this forum) want to argue that the belt is slipping, or motor is bogging down, and NO AND NO. I even made a little you tube---it is hard to see but you can see the chuck clearly stopped- and the belt and pulley turning. Its not a quality video- its made to show anyone who might be able to help me.
So Jeff- I need to take that whole quill and drive pulley- out, inspect, repair (HOPEFULLY)? Thank you! Here is the video. https://youtu.be/0dgJpaghWs4

[mark stanley]

Jeff- you are RIGHT on the money. I did exactly as asked, and voila- I can turn the pulley while holding the chuck. It takes very little effort- its not super easy- the pulley doesnt just spin- but I can turn it by hand while holding the pulley. So now i guess I have to take it apart.

[Nick Decker]

Mark, before you take anything apart, see if there's a set screw anywhere on the pulley that you can tighten.

[mark stanley]

I pulled up a parts manual for the Steel City (not sure if it's yours exactly), but it confirms my suspicions - - there is very little chance that they installed a clutch. (It looks like every import built in the last 30 yrs - - inlcd my Central Machinery version.)

This is the parts blow-up for the area I think is your issue:
380875

I don't see a set screw or a key to lock the pulley to the quill. Diagram is not great, but I'd look at nut (93) to see if it is tight on the sleeve (11) - - I THINK this is threaded, but not sure.

If its tight and #11 is turning, then the issue probably lies further down - perhaps in parts 12-16? Looks like #14 is splined to drive the spindle (50), and this may be damaged....???

Hope this helps and good luck.


Thanks Malcom-===there is no nut 93----I said clutch- because that shaft turns--when the going gets tough- so I said clutch "loosely" not knowing if it was supposed to work that way. I had an old "Buffalo Forge" drill press- USA MADE in 1954. HOWEVER---it got tired, and needed new bearings and a motor- the runout was getting bigger and bigger- and then it started screaming when it was on- so I searched and searched and found a bearing that would fit. The screaming stopped- but the beatings were far from over- as the motor died. The way it mounted- I had to use that motor- I tried finding a baldor and dayton motor via a friend at grainger- but nada. SO- I took it to a motor place, but they wanted 335$ to fix it- so I bought the steel city. I sold the buff for 200$- and I wish I had kept it. You cannot find products like them now days.

Anyway- I am certain this will fix it- now I just need to find the nut. It might be much easier said than done- Thanks for your help. I am very grateful and impressed with the help everyone gave. I hope to repay it in someway soon.

[mark stanley]

GUESS WHAT???? I FOUND THE NUT! It was laying next to the motor in the back of it- I assumed if that nut was on there- (at one time) or not- it "MIght" be in the general area- because I had no idea --what to buy- except I could try to measure that shaft. That nut was never installed- because this dumb thing has never worked right- and its not the kind of thing that would fall off---SO- I "ASSUMED"= that the drill press either was working as designed- (crappy)- or DEFECTIVE---and didn't think to look for something like that- but would have- as I was getting ready to take it apart- You can see- this is a big nut- it would have been VERY difficult to find- and I probably would have had to have one made- since steel city is no more---unless another (chinese) drill press used same- I could get part-

Thanks so much Malcom and Jeff- I appreciate yours and everyones help- 380895

[mark stanley]

Its that nut- but very good advice- thank you--it doesn't apply in this situation- but your advice is solid-

Thanks again all- Mark

[mark stanley]

wait- where is my post showing the nut? I found it- near the motor- and took a pic of it. It was missing- and LUCKILY I found it- its 31+MM so its not something I can run over to my local ace and buy- (probalby not) and steel city is gone- so ???? Anyway- I found it. Thanks to everyone! I assumed the drill press was a pig- and working properly, and then I thought it was defective. I didn't think to look for a missing nut- so I learned a valuable lesson- most engineers (like me) don't always use common sense. Ask anyone trying to change a heater core in their car. THANKS AGAIN

[mark stanley]

FYI- put nut on- could not get it to go--"would this be a reversed thread nut?" Why of course----so that it always stays tight while the DP is running- which proves it was not ever put on ----(or before I bought it someone was trying to snatch the pulley or something)- So- this is a 1 1/4 inch nut (I didn't have metric that big so not sure what metric size--)30-32 I would guess- anyway- its also reverse thread- so if you lose this nut- you are going to have to improvise because its not something you will easily find.

Thanks again for all of your help.----Now- I have a working drill press- to prove it- I used a 3" forster and it cut it like it was supposed it- no stopping.

[Ken Fitzgerald]

Mark,

For the record on reverse threaded nuts, I bought a new low speed grinder and one wheel wobbled horribly. The problem turned out to be caused by a reverse threaded nut holding that wheel on. The hole in that nut had not been drilled perpendicular to the face of the nut and thus the threads weren't perpendicular to the nut, so only a portion of the face of the nut was making contact with the grinding wheel. allowing it to wobble. I located a reverse threaded nut of the right size at my local ACE hardware. The new nut fit perfectly and the wobble was gone. If you have bearing companies and diesel mechanic shops in the area, they might have local sources for reverse threaded nuts too.

[mark stanley]

Mark,

For the record on reverse threaded nuts, I bought a new low speed grinder and one wheel wobbled horribly. The problem turned out to be caused by a reverse threaded nut holding that wheel on. The hole in that nut had not been drilled perpendicular to the face of the nut and thus the threads weren't perpendicular to the nut, so only a portion of the face of the nut was making contact with the grinding wheel. allowing it to wobble. I located a reverse threaded nut of the right size at my local ACE hardware. The new nut fitted perfectly and the wobble was gone. If you have bearing companies and diesel mechanic shops in the area, they might have local sources for reverse threaded nuts too.

a wobbly nut- wow- ACE had one? I might go buy a spare- this thing came off once- who knows- and it makes the drill press completely useless without it- so its worth getting an extra "just in case".

Its big and almost looks like pipe threads- I will have to get my little thread gauge out. I like the idea of a set screw- but we can't always have what we want. At least its not a key sheared off woodruff key in the keyway like I originally thought when that was suggested. My luck is like that.

Thank you again Ken. You have no idea how much i appreciate all of the great help. Mark

[Walter Plummer]

McMaster Carr. Left hand threaded low strength steel hex nut 1 1/4-12, $4.23 each plus shipping.

[Bill Dufour]

Chrylser used left hand lug nuts until the mid 1960's so many auto parts stores have them.. I think they are the standard 1/2 shaft size. I know I bought one for my grinder years ago.
They used right hand nuts on the other side so removing a wheel caused many broken studs unless you knew which way to loosen the nuts. After 40 years or so they decided wheel nuts did not come off by themselves and switched to all right hand studs/nuts. Probably gone metric these days anyway.
Bil lD

[Jeff Heath]

Red loctite can be your friend in situations where the nut isn't staying put. Not ideal, but a workaround for a poorly machined part to keep you drilling.

[michael langman]

I would use blue or green Loctite to keep the nut from coming off.
The red Loctite takes a good amount of heat to get the nut off.

[Jeff Heath]

I suggested the red because I restore a lot of machines, and have had the "blue" vibrate loose. Whatever tickles your fancy. I tend to err on the side of extreme, as I have acetylene setup, and creating heat for me is a piece of cake. I can easily admit not everyone has the same tooling available. I guess I should have said:

"Loctite has several products that can be your friend......" :D

[Lee Schierer]

wait- where is my post showing the nut?

It is right were you put it..post showing nut (https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?262920-Drill-press-help-needed-asap&p=2787278#post2787278)