Thickness planer

[Larry Foster]

I am a weekend hobbyist, at best.
I don't anticipate ever being a master craftsman or producer of the highest quality fine woodwork.

Been contemplating getting a planer for my tiny shop for a while.
Since space is limited, I'm probably looking at a bench top/lunch box type.

Due to practicality and budget, probably looking at lower end tools.

I have pallets coming out my ears and a saw mill down the road that I'm going to check out.

Is this something I should even contemplate?

The impetus for posting now is Harbor Freight has their Bauer 12.5" planer on sale this week for $250.
I see a Wen at Home Depot for $260
Porter Cable at Lowes for $269

Somebody has a Delta for $329 but that's about my upper limit for what I want to spend.

I'm not interested in getting a used one from Craigslist because I like warranties and (sometimes) credit purchases.
Also, not mechanically clever to fix things.

Thanks for any suggestions or input

[scott spencer]

Did you look into a DeWalt DW734? That's a well proven unit with good features and performance.

[Larry Foster]

Only briefly, scott.

It's $399 at Lowe's which is starting to get to be more than I want to get into.

I know you get what you pay for.

Thanks for your input

[Matt Day]

Did you see this thread? very similar situation.

https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread.php?262813-Wen-Three-blade-thickness-Planer

[Larry Foster]

I did a search before posting, Matt.
I'll check it out.
Thanks

[Lee Schierer]

I have an older 12.5" Delta Lunch box type planer and it has served me well for the amount of thicknessing I have needed to do for my hobby workshop for over 15 years. However, I would never consider running pallet lumber through it. Pallets get set on the ground and on other dirty areas often with considerable weight on them. They are also pushed by fork trucks across such areas. The chances of embedded grit is quite high and a single piece can nick a set of blades. Also pallet lumber is rarely kiln dried the way cabinet grade lumber is. Often it is heat treated to kill bugs, which is not the same as kiln drying. I know some people use pallet lumber for projects, but I don't and won't.

[Bill Bukovec]

I wouldn't run pallet lumber through a planer either.

[Larry Foster]

Thanks for that info, Lee and Bill.

I saw it on the YouTubes.
Unfortunately, that has been the biggest source of what I've learned

[Brad Adams]

It’s just a planer. It’s only job is to make my life easier. I say run the pallet wood through it.
I have the Dewalt 734 and would highly recommend it. I don’t hesitate to run pallet wood. The worlds not going to end if you do. I just wire brush the dirt off and have at it.

[Larry Foster]

Thanks, Brad.

I really love this place since I found it.

There's such a wide range of outlooks and experience

[Bill Dufour]

You have to compare the cost of sharpening vs buying wood.
Bill D

[Curt Harms]

Low end benchtop planers tend to produce quite a bit of snipe in my limited experience. There are things you can do to mitigate the problem but it'll likely still be there to some extent. Head locks may help but I don't know how many of the low end machines have them.

[Larry Foster]

Thanks Bill and Curt.

Bill, you make a good point about sharpening.
I better check out the cost and availability of replacement blades.

Curt, I've heard about sniping issues.
I don't know if the 3 methods mentioned solve the problem or not.
An additional piece of wood on the front and back, cut final length after planing, or sand the snipe out.

Of the 4 "candidates" is anyone have any experience with any of them?

I know Harbor Freight has a bad rep but I've had some good luck with some of their tools.
Lots of good reviews on the Wen and Porter Cable.

I may not even get one now but wanted to think about it

[Rod Sheridan]

The other issue is that you'll need to straighten ( joint) the wood in addition to thicknessing (planing) it.

You either need a jointer or a planer sled, which isn't as convenient or functional (Edge jointing on a jointer is easier than any method aside from a shaper or moulder).

I would second the DeWalt planer if you're looking for a low end machine that will work well for you........Regards, Rod.

[Lee Schierer]

Low end benchtop planers tend to produce quite a bit of snipe in my limited experience. There are things you can do to mitigate the problem but it'll likely still be there to some extent. Head locks may help but I don't know how many of the low end machines have them.

My 12.5 Delta lunch box has head locks and initially produced some degree of snipe on longer pieces of wood. What I found was that the in feed and out feed tables, which were aluminum would flex under the overhanging weight of longer pieces ( any lengths over about 3 feet). I built a stand for my planer with a longer in feed and out feed tables and my snipe problem went away unless I was planing boards that were longer than those in and out tables by more than a 3 feet. I can runs boards 6 feet in length with no snipe. You can see the planer table I built in the background of this photo.
380713

[Larry Foster]

Appreciate all the info and tips.

Rod, I didn't mention it but I do have a small jointer and learning on the YouTubes about other methods of jointing.

Lee. if/when I get one, I plan out feed tables.

Obviously, I've never used a jointer or a planer

[Stan Calow]

Do any of those contenders have dust collection ports? That would be a decider for me. I have the 12.5" Delta, and its OK, but ready to upgrade. You could wait for the father's day sale at big box store and maybe get a better deal.

[Marshall Harrison]

Only briefly, scott.

It's $399 at Lowe's which is starting to get to be more than I want to get into.

I know you get what you pay for.

Thanks for your input

Don't know if it applies to you or not but Lowes offers a 10% military/veterans discount. Comes in handy when shopping there so I use it for my tools when I can

[Larry Foster]

Stan, I believe all do have dust collection.

Right now, my dust collection is a broom and dust pan.
:o

The Father's Day tip may be a good idea.
May be able to get a little better planer for near the same money.
I have no urgent need for one right now

[Marshall Harrison]

Thanks for that info, Lee and Bill.

I saw it on the YouTubes.
Unfortunately, that has been the biggest source of what I've learned

Unfortunately you don't need to have any qualifications as a woodworker to post videos on Youtube. Lots of unsafe practices on there especially around table saws. Some of those guys scare me and I'm amazed that they still have their fingers.

If in doubt ask here. Some opinionated people on here on certain subjects (such as SawStop) but they will keep you safe.

[Bill Carey]

In the last 3 years I have run only reclaimed oak, ash, hickory, etc thru my 734. No problemo. I do check each piece with a metal detector.

[Larry Foster]

I'm aware of that caveat, Marshall, but thanks for pointing that out.

I'm real ginger about stuff.
I had an uncle who lost some fingers on power equipment and worked in a saw mill when I was a kid.
Lot's of people with missing parts there and watched a guy lose some.

Bill, I had thought of a metal detector, too.
Good excuse to get one.
:D

[Nick Decker]

Don't know if it applies to you or not but Lowes offers a 10% military/veterans discount. Comes in handy when shopping there so I use it for my tools when I can

Just found out recently that Home Depot has the same deal. Just need to ask and show ID.

[Larry Foster]

I'm not a veteran.
But good for those stores for doing this.

Lowe's gives me 5% for using my Lowe's charge.
Just got a Home Depot and don't think they do that

[Nick Decker]

I have the "Professional" model of the Cutech planer. It's a good benchtop (lunchbox) planer, has a locking head, carbide cutters, etc., but it's still a benchtop planer. It's basically a Ridgid/Delta, etc. with a redesigned cutter head. Snipe seems to vary with board length, species and planet alignment, but it's never very much, sometimes hard to detect.

I sometimes just cut off a few inches to eliminate it, sometimes sand it out. I've found that pre-loading/following boards of the same thickness does work but it can get a little hectic if you're working alone. Also means having to have (and wasting) boards of the same thickness. Usually easier to just trim off the snipe when possible.

[Bill Space]

Appreciate all the info and tips.

Rod, I didn't mention it but I do have a small jointer and learning on the YouTubes about other methods of jointing.

Lee. if/when I get one, I plan out feed tables.

Obviously, I've never used a jointer or a planer

This brought a tear to my eye! So I am not the ONLY one who buys tools before he has a need to use them! :):):)

[Kevin Smira]

This brought a tear to my eye! So I am not the ONLY one who buys tools before he has a need to use them! :):):)

Wait...are you saying that we are SUPPOSED to have a need BEFORE we buy tools?

[Larry Foster]

I didn't know I needed tools to get them.
I have a lot to learn.

My wife, on the other hand, doesn't think I need any tools but should borrow them.
Or if I buy a tool I must use it every day until it wears out or I die (if she doesn't kill me in my sleep)

[Kevin Smira]

I didn't know I needed tools to get them.
I have a lot to learn.

My wife, on the other hand, doesn't think I need any tools but should borrow them.
Or if I buy a tool I must use it every day until it wears out or I die (if she doesn't kill me in my sleep)

So your wife's name is Amanda too?

Kevin

[Larry Foster]

Might have been her nick name before I knew her

[Ole Anderson]

I have my local supplier skip joint one face then thickness my purchases to +1/16 and then I finish thickness it on my Delta lunchbox after I joint and rip the edges (they want too much for that step). For a 20 cents or so per bd-ft, it saves a lot of time and the bags of shavings you won't have to toss is well worth it.

[Randy Heinemann]

Also, if you search around and find a name brand planer that is priced below Lowe's price, I believe they still match that price less 10%. I would be wary of buying a "cheap" planer. I realize you don't want to spend a lot but, before I'd buy a low-end priced planer, I'd consider finding a local hardwood lumber yard or woodworking place that would plane your wood for a price. This is especially attractive if you don't do a lot of woodworking and don't use a large volume of wood. There might even be a local woodworking club with a member(s) who would plane your wood for a reasonable price.

I have had a Dewalt 735 planer for 10+ years and was never sorry I spent the money for it. It's more than you want to spend but, if you want the planer to last for awhile and not put up with significant snipe, I would recommend considering the longer term. I realize this planer, as all bench top planers, has some flaws but it is still a great planer with very good dust collection (which s also important for a planer).

On the other hand, Cutech, an online company, has a straight knife planer for $239. I don't have experience with Cutech's products, but have read a lot of positive comments. Personally, if I were going to try their product, I'd go for the spiral head cutter, but that is more money. Just another possibility. Others may be able to tell you more about the performance and quality. Search on SMC. I believe there are other posts about it.

[Larry Foster]

Good advice, guys.
Thanks

I'm in the hinterlands and not aware of woodworking clubs and we are pretty limited for lumber places.
I'll check out Cutech.
Not sure how Lowe's or Home Depot do with their price match.
For example, neither sell the Cutech.
I don't know if they would match with a different product

[Julie Moriarty]

Somebody has a Delta for $329 but that's about my upper limit for what I want to spend.

Thanks for any suggestions or input
I had a Delta planer for over 15 years and put it through a lot. It's a pretty good planer, at least the one I had was.

[Larry Foster]

It's hard to find any of those at a discount.
Dewalt and Delta may require a minimum price

[Randy Heinemann]

Lowe's will only match prices on products they sell, but I would assume that they may sell some of the ones you originally mentioned.

[Curt Harms]

Good advice, guys.
Thanks

I'm in the hinterlands and not aware of woodworking clubs and we are pretty limited for lumber places.
I'll check out Cutech.
Not sure how Lowe's or Home Depot do with their price match.
For example, neither sell the Cutech.
I don't know if they would match with a different product

In appearance at least, the Ridgid and Cutech may have the same birth place. The Ridgid doesn't appear to offer any sort of spiral cutterhead but on the other hand you may not have to worry as much about cutter knife availability for the Ridgid in the future.

[Larry Foster]

Thanks for that info, Curt.

[Nick Decker]

The Cutech is based on an older model of the Ridgid (Model 1300?). The current incarnation, with the segmented cutter head, used to be sold by Steel City. When Steel City went out of business an employee, or employees, managed to get the rights to continue to produce it under the Cutech name.

My dealings with the company (not affiliated) have been nothing but positive. When my planer arrived, there was a problem with the cutter head, contacted Cutech and they had a complete new machine to me within several days. They're a small company, located in Nashville, and only sell direct. Very quick to respond to questions/concerns. Like I said earlier, I'm very happy with mine.

[Larry Foster]

Thanks for that, Nick.

I'll definitely check them out and consider

Edit:

I just checked them out.
Their budget planer has a straight knife.

Their better ine with the spiralhead cutter is a little more than I want to go

[Bill Sutherland]

At one point I was also considering another planer to replace my 735 and Cutech was always rising to the top. Since I use my drum sander so much I never did replace the 735 but if I did it would be the Cutech with spiral head.

[Nick Decker]

My thinking on buying the Cutech went like this: Having been around and used a Dewalt 734, I knew it to be a solid machine and assumed the 735 would be even a little better. What caused me concern was reports about the longevity of the Dewalt knives, and how loud it was. Some people report using the same knives for years, no problem, but I don't know what kind of wood they're milling or how discerning they are about cut quality. I primarily use hardwoods, often exotics.

Enter the Cutech. Their top machine is up there around the DW 735, pricewise, so you're not saving money there. I read everything I could find about their "segmented cutterhead" and the company itself. The only thing "spiral" about their cutterhead is that the cutters are placed around the head in a spiral pattern. There are a a lot fewer of them, and they don't slice the wood at an angle like a helix/Byrd head. As for the company itself, I could find nothing negative about them, only positive. My pre-sale contacts with them were good. As I said before, their response to the one problem I had after the sale was flawless.

After using the machine for the last year or so, I can tell you that the cut quality is somewhere between a planer with straight knives and one with a helix head. It's glass-smooth on every type of wood I've put through it, but birds eye maple and other highly figured wood will cause some tear-out. Snipe is minimal. I sometimes see very faint lines caused by the edges of the inserts, but I hear the same reports from people with helix cutterheads.The carbide cutters show no signs of dulling, and the motor is strong for a 110v. I recently installed a Wixey DRO on it, no problem.

Noise is definitely less than the Dewalt, probably related to not having straight knives. I'd put the noise somewhere between the DW 734 and a jobsite table saw. So, still loud.

Whether it fits the bill for others, don't know. Works well for me and I recommend it.

[mark stanley]

Thickness planers are one of those things that you buy and either use it or don't. I bought a dewalt 735 with extra blades (knives I think is proper term)- for 300$ on craigslist. The guy told me he bought it- tried it out, and never used it after that. I bought the stainless feed and outfeed tables- and its awesome. I use it now and then- but i use a jointer much more. Just my 2 cents if you are out there looking for one- you might consider the used route---and you will be able to tell if one is sparingly used or cared for, and one that isn't. Its quite obvious by looking at condition of the blades and overall appearance. ---I noticed this when I was looking.

[John Sanford]

If you're going to be running pallet wood through it, then take the cost of replacement knives into consideration. With a stationary planer, the knives can be sharpened, many times. Benchtop units use disposable knives. Yes, some folks have sharpened them once, but don't count on being able to do so. Using pallet wood will result in more frequent dulling/nicking.

[Larry Foster]

Thanks, John, for that tip

[Robert Engel]

If you run rough lumber from a sawmill you will quickly find the limitations of a lunchbox type planer.

More then one has been burned up that way.

[anne watson]

Or just wash or brush the pallet wood carefully, then run a bunch though, when scratches get more than you can handle, buy a new set of blades.

Many times pallet wood is better than Home Depot stuff esp. in areas that do not have a lot of trees

Often seller will throw in an extra set of blades, free or at reduced cost.

[Mike Cary]

Often the price of having planer knives sharpened is more than new knives.

I just sold my 15" 3 hp stationary planer and went back to a Dewalt 735. It is in my opinion the best portable planer. It uses disposable razor sharp knives that can put wood out the other side ready to finish. But it is way above your price range. However, think about whether an additional $200 is going to make or break you. I don't know you so maybe it is not justified. But if you buy a cheap planer and then decide you want a better one, its a lot more expensive later to buy 2 and have to get rid of the first one.

I don't buy much from Harbor Freight that have motors. But I love their warrantee. I saw a guy bring back two portable metal bandsaws when I was last there. He was a pro who used the crap out of them and basically used them up, they just gave him 2 knew ones.

You can run pallet wood through a planer. Its just wood. When working with wood that has been on the ground or has grit in it, brush it with a wire or brass brush. You want to get a metal detector. This is very important. I bought a bowling alley once (don't do this). It was nailed together with twisted harden nails. I didn't know they were just nailed together when I bought it. I decided to disassemble it and plane it flat and relaminate. I could not see all the nails and some had broken off. A piece of metal will instantly ding your blade and you will see little trails of wood on your board.

[Matthew Carver]

I have a Wen benchtop from Amazon. It does fine for straight grain lumber. Figured wood I seem to get a lot of chipout.

[Andrew Hughes]

I'm against working with pallet wood. Not only is it going to destroy your knives very quickly. You might be cutting pallets that have been treated with insecticides. Some times bring practical is not the smartest way.

[Grant Aldridge]

I have a friend with a Wen 2-blade planer. He likes it, I'm pretty sure he's never used any other planers though. I think that's the key
I have a DW734 (and recently bought a 16" Woodtek as an upgrade, just gotta finish wiring it up!). The first thing I noticed able the Wen is the lack of a locking mechanism, the thickness can vary across a single board! It struggles BAD with 1x6 yellow pine, I didn't get to check it out with fresh knives though. I'd say it's OK if you're just wanting to use narrow soft woods, besides that, my DW734 has served me well!

[Matthew Hills]

Planers are a lot of fun -- that moment of revelation when a piece of scruffy wood reveals a beautiful grain pattern (or not :-).

If part of your goal is to get lumber true and flat, then you'll need a solution for flattening the first face.
Some options: jointer, hand plane, planer sled+shims, or flattening setup for router...

For the planer, some things to consider:


knives - these will wear or get nicked. Nice if you can get replacement blades and if they aren't too fiddly to replace. (indexed knives can be swapped out pretty easily and are probably a desired option for you). Planing lots of boards or hitting anything hard (metal, rocks, knots) can cause issues. A knicked blade will tend to leave a ridge or groove. If a ridge, you can probably hande plane or sand down afterwards.
tearout - planing against the grain will tend to leave a bad surface finish. Highly-figured wood or reversing grain will tend to cause more problems. Spiral cutterheads are even better, but much more expensive. For straight knife planers, a sharp blade, light cuts will tend to help. Some people swear by wetting the surface a bit. Handplaning/scraping/sanding are useful if you need to clean up a last few bits of this. Selecting wood is the best way to avoid.
snipe are sections at the start/end of the board when the planer cuts deeper than elsewhere. Some of this can be adjusted out with the infeed/outfeed support or by feeding boards sequentially. If worst comes to worst, you may end up working around it by planing your boards with a few extra inches on each end that you cut off after planing.
chip collection - where do the chips go when operating the planer? some planers will clog up if you don't have an extraction system. Others have blowers. Others will just spray out the dust port.


In your position, I probably would look at light/moderately-used benchtop units listed on craigslist in the $100-200 range, with requirements that you can still get replacement knives for it and that you can see it running and are happy with the results. This hasn't seemed to be a tool that requires a lot of fiddling compared to some others.

Matt

[Nick Decker]

Good info.

"Some people swear by wetting the surface a bit."

I learned this tip a while back, and had limited results. You do have to take very small bites, though. The way it worked best for me was to mist the surface and let it sit for 10- 15 seconds, then wipe off the excess before planing. Success varies with species.