Leave Shop Cabinets Bare? Or finish?

[Andrew Wayland]

In the final phases of my basement bar project, I have learned that my tool collection has multiplied exponentially.

To get them all organized I took today to build some “shop” cabinets for my garage so I can organize.


I just used cheap big-box store plywood... but I’m curious if I should take any time to add a finish of some sort?

Or do you all leave yours all bare?

(Garage is unconditioned)

[glenn bradley]

I sand to 220, shellac them and sand to 320. I have baltic birch plywood fixtures that have been setting in the shop for a dozen years and still look fine. Some MDF ones too for that matter (the drawer unit, not the bench):

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[Bill Dufour]

I use linseed oil thinned with thinner or white gas. My theory is if it gets scratched up another coat should blend right in and heal any scars.
Bil lD

[Thomas Canfield]

I like to sand my shop made pieces, apply a coat of Zinzer shellac cut 50/50 with DNA, light sand, and apply second coat of cut shellac. I have been using the same nylon bristle brush now over 10 years without cleaning only using paper towel to soak out shellac and then wrapping with dry paper towel and wet with DNA and store in plastic newspaper bag twisted for seal. Brush is soft for a few days, but if bristles are stiff there is not enough shellac present and it quickly melts when dipped in next application of shellac. Call me lazy. The shellac will both harden up the shop pieces and make surface slick that will accept wax if needed and make for easier cleanup of dust in future.

[Matt Day]

Unfinished here. Wasted time and money IMO.

[Jim Becker]

This is something very subjective and personal. I suspect that I'd put at least shellac on shop cabinets and the one that I did build some time ago that isn't repurposed from somewhere else was finished that way.

[Frederick Skelly]

I always put a finish on mine to keep them reasonably nice. I use whatever clear I have left over - often shellac but sometimes water-based poly, etc.I have heard ofvothers using leftover paint or paint returned to the BORG and resold cheaply.

[Jay Aubuchon]

I paint my shop cabinets, white with yellow drawer fronts. It brightens my windowless basement shop.

[James Biddle]

Shop cabinets are a great way to practice and learn new finishing techniques as well as clear out some finishing materials.

[Tom Bender]

I'm with Jay on this one. Even a garage can use a little brightening up and color. My garage cabinets are purple. Most likely you have some old leftover paint. Use it for a base coat, sand it smooth then top coat it with something you like. Or let your better half choose and apply the top coat.

[Ben Rivel]

Shop cabinets are a great way to practice and learn new finishing techniques as well as clear out some finishing materials.
Exactly! For shop furniture if it isnt painted its got water based poly in my shop.

[Andrew Seemann]

Everything in the shop gets hit with a coat or two of shellac sanding sealer, mostly to protect against dirt, grime, and soot, and also to make it easier to get glue and other stains off. Stuff that will take a beating usually gets polyurethane also. A lot of my shop cabinets have been practice projects for a future project (my sharpening bench was the prototype for our kitchen). so I often am also testing the finish on them.

I tend to use stuff leftover from projects or that is one more can opening from going bad. Unfortunately I am not always good at finishing shop furniture/fixtures right away, as my unfinished 4 year old Frid bench will attest to.

[Ole Anderson]

Seal them to avoid greasy fingerprints if you use your shop for anything other than wood.

[Bernie Kopfer]

Whenever I have some left over poly or shellac or oil I apply it to my shop cabinets. Slowly everything is getting coated aand since all my drawer fronts and most of the boxes are MDF they can readily take a second coat as material becomes available. Great way to not waste old finish etc.

[Rod Sheridan]

My base cabinets are Baltic birch with a couple coats of semi-gloss varathane. The door and drawer fronts are BB ply with walnut trim.

The wall cabinets are a mix of white melamine and BB.

Regards, Rod.

[Mike Cutler]

Finish them.

Research a finish technique that you think you'd like to use someday, and do it with them.
The finish is the stage of a project that a lot of us "fall down" a little bit on. I know I do.
Don't waste an opportunity to try something new.

[Dave Cav]

I'm another shellac user. Looks good, relatively cheap, quick and easy to apply and repair. Messy to spray, though.

[Jim Becker]

I'm another shellac user. Looks good, relatively cheap, quick and easy to apply and repair. Messy to spray, though.

Interestingly, I don't find it messy to spray at all...in fact, that's my preferred application method for shellac!

[Roger Floyd]

Mine are mostly Baltic Birch. I spray 2 or 3 coats of General Finishes Pre Cat Lacquer.
It’s incredibly durable, inexpensive, forgiving and fast. It’s a warm dry day today in San Diego and it’s dry to the touch in 5 minutes, re coat in 30. Quick hit with 400 between coats.
I think my shop should be easy to clean and a pleasant place to spend my day.

[John C Cox]

In the final phases of my basement bar project, I have learned that my tool collection has multiplied exponentially.

To get them all organized I took today to build some “shop” cabinets for my garage so I can organize.


I just used cheap big-box store plywood... but I’m curious if I should take any time to add a finish of some sort?

Or do you all leave yours all bare?

(Garage is unconditioned)

If you don't put some sort of finish on the wood - it will pick up all sorts of stains and smudges from the workshop and end up looking pretty icky and grungy in pretty short order......

Just something as simple as wiping on a quick spit coat of wipe on poly will make a world of difference in terms of soaking up ick..

And so I would at least wipe on 1 quick coat on the doors and face frames...

[Dave Burson]

Rod,
I'd sure love to see a picture of how all that shows if possible? Sounds similar to what I was thinking. Just getting ready to finalize the shop cabinets, so love to see options before committing to something. TIA!
Dave


My base cabinets are Baltic birch with a couple coats of semi-gloss varathane. The door and drawer fronts are BB ply with walnut trim.

The wall cabinets are a mix of white melamine and BB.

Regards, Rod.

[DannyC White]

My preference is to embellish my tool cabinet, show off my skills and make it a piece of fine furniture. I've had this tool cabinet for my hand tools for almost 15 years and I look forward to making a new one soon, with even more bling. This one is red oak face frame, red oak plywood body, with quilted maple veneer panels and walnut accents.

I used only a french polish shellac finish. (The image has been photoshopped just a little bit LOL just to pop the grain of the maple)

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[johnny means]

I paint my shop cabinets, white with yellow drawer fronts. It brightens my windowless basement shop.
Plus one on white paint. You'd be surprised what a few white surfaces does for lighting in a shop.

[Tim Janssen]

I put a couple of coats of water based poly on mine.

Tim

[Brian Tymchak]

I put ArmRSeal on my birch ply cabinets. Quick buff with steel wool and it's as smooth as a baby's ....

[jack duren]

Unfinished here. Wasted time and money IMO.

Agree..... you can paint white to brighten the area...